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Gideyon

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  1. It's only been a week since nitrification was complete, and doing a 90% water change. Since the water change, I added more than 4ppm ammonia. I'd even guess more than 5ppm. My goal was 2ppm with 20 drops of Dr Tim's, but I squeezed a little too hard for the last few drops that it turned into a stream of ammonia. It happened again 2 days later, but this time on purpose. I forgot to get a baseline of my nitrates then. So I only did it tonight. I don't plan on adding ammonia again for another week (total 2 weeks). 80ppm is my best guess. Bright red on the master test kit, roughly 80ppm on the API strips. In a week, I'll see if denitrification has taken place. If not, I'll add 2ppm ammonia, and leave it for a week again.
  2. Oh yes. I know that. I don't want to kill my fish 🙂 I'm hoping to go another month or month and a half fishless and plantless. I don't want to go longer to see if denitrification takes place. Then I'll add plants and see how they do. If all goes well, fish are next.
  3. Thanks for the link. You would think that I would Google it too, but no.... I didn't even think to do that. Thanks for reminding me 😉 After some research, it seems it can definitely go a week, even 2 weeks like I experienced. I think even a month. If you think about it, what is bottled bacteria feeding on for many months without a source? I think I'll just dose every two weeks to play it safe Thanks for the feedback
  4. Is there a time frame of how long it can go on average without an ammonia source? I went 2 weeks waiting for nitrites to zero out. No ammonia during that time. And the bacteria seems to have survived.
  5. A "build your own filter kit" For those of us who desire custom filters but don't have the resources to cut our own acrylic, it would be nice if various components of different sizes can be prefabricated so all we need to do is put pieces together the way we desire. Drilling and gluing would be done by the customer.
  6. While starting a fishless cycle for the first time, I finally have the nitrifying bacteria in place. I did a 90% water change and testing again. I spilled more ammonia than desired. But it's starting to convert.... My desire is to test anoxic filtration and the formation of denitrifying bacteria. I'd basically need to wait for the nitrates to go down (if they ever do - that's the test) Question : do I need to put in ammonia once in a while to keep the bacteria "fed" and not die off? Or is that a myth? I'd like to just let it sit if I don't lose any bacteria.
  7. I did a "soft reset" and did a 90% water change. The brown water was driving me crazy, and I needed to clean the glass too. The cause may prevent me from going further if it happens again. I think the substrate is deteriorating. The fine particles were clouding the tank, and even dying the water. Or if it doesn't happen again, maybe it was fine particles that didn't get rinsed out that came up through the lift tube. That's my hope. But if it ends up failing, I'll try it again but with a gravel substrate with just a small layer of the clay above the UGF plate.
  8. $39 for a betta that died in 5 months. That was my first fish since going into the hobby armed with information. Now I'm going for platys. If they die, I won't feel it in the wallet too much.
  9. My last ditch effort. An old folgers coffee container, drilled some holes, stuffed it with polyfill, connected a power head to it. But instead of water being sucked through the filter, I'm pushing water through it. The power head is too powerful for this tank, but I'll leave it running for a few more hours. Occasionally I'll find craters in the substrate from all the water movement. I really don't want to do that. I'm just hoping a 90% water change will get rid of it. No fish so I can do that.
  10. Finally reached 0ppm nitrite. Nitrate is 160+ ppm I added another 20 drops of ammonia and will check again tomorrow.
  11. This just isn't going away. I tried many different filtering ways, even the usually effective carbon floss cartridge. Could the water just have been dyed by the substrate?
  12. I recently purchased my first air pump with dual outputs. Question: does air just go through the path of least resistance, or does each output have its own source of air being pushed out? I can't tell if mine is faulty or not. If I plug one tube to an air stone, nothing happens. If I connect both tubes to a 'T' and one tube going to the airstone, I get some results. I have the USB pump from aquarium coop. But I needed something more powerful for this purpose. So I opted for one of those no names on Amazon. I think I'd rather just double up on the USB ones as they work reliably well. Note : I know nothing about pumps. Never needed one before..
  13. It's pretty much verified. I disturbed the substrate and so much dust came up. I had a bag of rinsed crushed coral in there. I moved that around and so much came out. My intake sponge was covered in it. Rinsed that in the tank and same thing. Now it's a cloudy aquarium. It has to be coming back up through the UGF. Because I only started cycling after I was able to disturb the surface and get nothing kick up. I took out the filter media and left it in the tank. Stuffed the HOB with polyfill, and disconnected my UGF to plug in a DIY box filter stuffed with polyfill. Hopefully the cycling is still doing its thing.
  14. Every time they come to Baltimore it's either mother's day or I had work. Hoping to see them again next time they come around... and meet them. Been a fan since 1987.
  15. I'm cycling a tank with a clay substrate, UGF, and HOB. No plants, leaves or drift wood. Why has my water gotten brown? This happened when I first set it up, and I thought it was from my substrate settling in. I removed it with a carbon/floss filter. My theory is that the UGF is pulling small debris through the 3" of substrate and it finally got to the surface. But is there any other possible cause?
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