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About Me

Found 8 results

  1. Hey all, I have a colony of Chapalichthys pardalis (the Leopard Goodeid) and I've had them in their tank for about 8 months now. All was fine and they were even breeding, so I was quite pleased. (Great little fish btw.) I had one fish a week ago present with something that looked like hole-in-the-head. I thought that was mainly a cichlid disease, so I suspected also that it could have been trauma from aggression from tankmates (they chase around a lot but I've never seen them actually fight.) The spot had gotten quite a bit worse over about 3 days (it spread and showed obvious deformity to the head, but wasn't exactly deep.) I isolated it and added aquarium salt and erythromycin... it went from very active and behaving normally to dead within minutes of putting him in that isolation tank. 😕 I had even animated him to the temp, used dechlorinator, and half of it was water from his old tank. So not sure what was going on there. Here is the fish that died: I thought it was perhaps a fluke- an older adult with a weakened immune system- but now I can see the beginnings of the same spot on two other adults in the colony. This suggests to me that I should treat the entire tank, but with what? Does anyone have experience using aquarium salt with goodeids? It ought to be ok. I have had bad luck in the past adding erythromycin to QT tanks. This is the second time that I've had a fish die within minutes of exposure. (I know we talk about the fallacy of treating a sick fish with a med, and yet sick fish dies anyway, but it is not normal for this to happen so quickly.) Behavior has been 100% normal. 20gal tank with what is now 4 adults and about 8 large fry. Planted tank witha sponge filter as well as a Fluval U1 underwater filter. Params: 70.2*F, pH 8.0 (normal for my hard water), nitrate a bit high at 50ppm (got a little overenthusiastic with the Easy Green,- I'll do a water change), nitrite 0 ppm, hardness GH 300+, buffer KH 300+, Chlorine 0ppm. All of this is pretty normal. I have been struggling with excess mulm in the tank lately but unsure if that would cause an issue. I do weekly water changes from 30-50%, using Prime to dechlorinate. No ides what has caused this. I contacted the breeder I purchased them from and he said he had never seen it in his colony and recommended metronidazole if it is hole-in-the-head, which like I said, I'm not sure. But it certainly seems like something infectious. Please help! This is an endangered goodied species and I will feel very bad if I lose them. (Well, I'd feel bad regardless.) Please be clear in your answer if you have experience treating goodieds or if you've just mined info from the internet. I am trying to figure out if they are particularly sensitive to meds or something. Thank you! Current fish: pardon this blurry pic, of course they won't cooperate 🙄
  2. Thought I'd share my success story here ☺️ - my betta has been battling fin rot for a good few months now. Or at least that's how long I've been noticing issues. I believe one of the most important aspects of treating fish is identifying the root cause. In this case, I determined that I had simply gotten a bit lazy with his tank. Knowing bettas can be exceptionally hardy and the fact that my tank was already cycled, I was only doing water changes every 2 weeks or so. Sometimes longer. Fast forward about 4 or 5 months to mid-April, when it peaked. The fin rot began as some red discoloration on the ends of his fins where they had previously been white. This is usually the first warning sign, discoloration. Nearly 5 days after I started noticing this, it had progressed to almost the entire loss of his tail (top photo) and I could knew acting fast was my only option. I got my 5 gallon hospital tank ready with my air pump, airstone, heater and a few silk plants I had on hand to make him feel comfortable. My first step was water changes - a lot of them. Keeping the tank CLEAN. I was doing a 50% change every three days with a teaspoon added of aquarium salt per gallon that I was changing. (PS. never add SALTwater to top off SALTwater, only add it when you're changing the water as you could easily build up too many salts for the betta and stress him/her out even further.) I repeated this process for about 2 weeks. I could tell with the salt that the fin rot wasn't getting worse, but it also wasn't really getting any better. So, I progressed to treating with meds. I usually use this as a last resort, but I didn't have much time to decide and I didn't want to lose my fish while I waited around for things to improve. I used erythromycin to treat him as this antibiotic is commonly used to treat fin rot, is very accessible and widely understood. A good one is Mardel Maracyn found here. There was the potential that the fin rot could have been caused by a fungus. But in my research, I found that many people had success treating it as a bacterial infection with an antibiotic, so I wanted to start there and move to an antifungal if needed such as Ich-x. I followed the instructions for the erythromycin and before the treatment was even over, I began to see improvements. I did not run a second round. His tail began growing back a clear-ish white color and later began to turn a dark blue/black which was very similar to his original coloration. Now, I am feeding him a variety of his favorite foods and changing his water about every 5 - 6 days (with no salt) and just working as hard as I can to keep his tank sparkly clean. He isn't 100% yet as this type of infection causes a lot of damage which takes a long time to repair, but we are definitely in the home stretch!! Water changes Try Aquarium Salt, UP to 3 teaspoons (1 tablespoon) per gallon Or Antibiotics, Antifungal or both More Water changes forever Top photo is just before I started antibiotic meds (April 19th, 2020) and bottom photos are from today. What he looked like the first 6 months or so after I got him! 🥺
  3. Not a fish disease, but a med question nonetheless. Earlier this week I posted about my cloudy water problems in my 55g. Followed the friendly advice I was given to no avail. This morning I caught a waft of the eye-watering stench we all know and love to hate (burnt tires and every poisonous plant on earth steaming in a cesspool? How creative can we get here...)... tank has excellent water flow (hob rated for 75g, internal filter rated for 40g, and a nano sponge filter I keep stashed behind some plants for QT). Crawled around a bit and beheld this lovely site on the back of the tank which faces a window. 🤦🏼‍♀️ sneaky. so now I’m headed to get some black foam board to tape to the back of the tank to block the light of day from sustaining this mess. Does anyone know if it is safe to dose erythromycin with <1 week old molly fry? thank you!
  4. I bought the 3 medications that Cory recommended for using in a quarantine tank and now I can't find the video, Ich-X, Maracyn and ParaCleanse. Anyone remember how he uses them?
  5. hey all! a well(-ish) known online fish seller/supplier recently told me that salt makes erythromycin ineffective and the two should not be used together. it was my first time ever hearing this and i can’t find anything online really discussing this either. is there truth to this or does anyone else have any experience? i have always kept some salt in my qt and hospital tanks while treating with meds.
  6. Hi everyone, I am having a heck of a time with my CPDs. It's heartbreaking. I've had a group of 8 in a 9 gallon for several months. Over the last few weeks, one at a time, they've developed a light patch (not spots like ich but a big patch, see picture) that turns into a sore and they go downhill from there. Parameters are all good. Nitrate: around 20, Nitrite and ammonia: 0, Ph: 7.4, GH: 300 (yeah, very hard water), KH: around 150. Temperature was around 73 degrees F. I've turned it up to 79/80. Maybe that was a mistake? I am in Canada so I've gotten antibiotics from my vet (she is awesome) and this last case has gone through one round already. The first time I used Melafix with no effect. I have Maracyn Two, PraziPro and Methylene Blue on hand. I suspect at least this little one that is sick now, may have internal parasites. I'm seeing a lot of stringy poop from all of them now. This was the smallest and most slender of the group but he's been eating very well. Do I do another round of Erythromycin? Do I try Maracyn Two? Do I change as much water as possible and go with PraziPro? Another one of my females already has the light patch and will likely go down the same road as my poor boy, pictured here. With treatment he developed even more bumps and sores. I fear I'll have to euthanize him today. I am at a loss. I don't over feed too much and I have shrimp and snails that clean up any extra food. I keep the water clean. I'm at a loss! I thank you all in advance. This is so bloody heartbreaking.
  7. Hey all, new here. Been watching ACO for a couple years now 55g has been established for a year sponge filter no carbon added a few new GBRs last week now have ich and some white patches everyone is happy, swimming, and eating temp is 82-84 A 0 Ni 0 Na <10 steady did 80% change last night and dosed Ich x, EM, and GC as directed add Tea Tree and Lavender EO with each water change - have done for a year this is where I have a question. Ich says change 1/3 water before each dose, due tonight. EM and GC are add after 24 / 48 hours without water change. If i change water tonight per ich x how much am i limiting the abx also working? anyone skip water change with second dose of ich? Either way, I can't "follow the directions" Thanks all!
  8. Is erythromycin mostly a topical treatment when added to the water column, or is there also some internal absorption by the fish via their gills or other mechanism? If it's also internal, is it in an ineffective amount to be used for that kind of treatment? I don't have a specific problem that I can give more details on. I'm just curious as to its range of use as an anti-bacterial -- external vs internal.
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