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  1. Hello Aquarium Co-Op community! Help! I have my poor betta fish in a 5 gal planted tank. He has white skin tags around gills and now close to the eye. I have tried maracyn because I thought it look like body fungus. Also been using salt to treat the aquarium. I live in a tropical area but the water is usually 78-80 degrees F°. But, I placed a heater and turned it up to 82 F°. When I raised the temperature the first skin tag reduced in size. That was the day before yesterday. Yesterday per se I turned off heater and temperature went back to normal 78-80 F°. Also yesterday I did a sixth day of maracyn treatment without high temperature. Today when I woke up at 7:30 saw what you can see in the picture. I am doing a 50% water change, added salt and raised the temperature. Should I use Ich X? Can this be Ich. I have paracleanse and Expel P. Should I use one of those. Also checked for amonia, nitrites, nitrates and ph and all checks well. He is eating though and that's a good sign. But could you help me 🥺?
  2. So I've been treating my betta with maracyn because he had a lot of bacterial stuff going on, he's getting better, moving around more, but he's still slightly pinecone-y, something I'm 98% sure is dropsy. He also had fin rot, I think it's stopped at this point, I'm starting to see the fins grow back a little. I fell into that cycle of not checking the water and got busy and this happened, 100% my fault, I'm just trying to fix it. I've gone through a full round of maracyn but I have a problem. I only have 3 packets of maracyn left and he most likely needs one more full 5 packet round of it. He's in a 10 gallon hospital tank, I don't get paid till Thursday, what do yall suggest I do? I can't pick it up locally, no one here carries it. Do the regimen as instructed until I run out and hope for the best, is there another medicine that's more readily available that's comparable? Should I wait a week until I have more of the medicine ordered?
  3. 10G Betta tank with suspected columnaris. Take a look at the pics and let me know what you think about the diagnosis! Onset: 6 days ago, white patch behind his head suddenly appeared. Hasn’t seemed to get worse or better. He is more lethargic than normal, but is still eating and occasionally swimming around the tank (not just up for air). Fin rot seems slightly better now but is still severe compared to what he had before this started. Current treatment: water change and gravel vac immediately and again yesterday; darkness in the tank for four days and now limited lighting, Ich-X (5mL), and Maracyn (1 packet). Left the Ich-X and Maracyn to sit for three days, did a 30% water change and re-treated with both yesterday. (Yes, I did a water change but wasted a couple days trying to figure out what it was before medicating!) Thinking of treating with kanaplex, but have qualms because it’s a heavily planted tank, with a nerite and otos in it that might also suffer or die. Thoughts? This is following a bout of BGA from lack of nutrients, and fin rot from the nasty BGA tank conditions until I got it figured out, killed, and now mostly cleaned up (there’s probably a random dead piece in the gravel). Previous fin rot and BGA were treated with two rounds of maracyn two weeks apart, one round of Paracleanse, big water changes and plant prunings, and more consistent ferts. Tank is recovering and looking much better, but betta’s fin rot is worse again and now he has a big white-tinged patch. He does have the marble gene, and he is just over a year old (he’s been with me a year and was a medium-sized juvie when I bought him). This appeared very suddenly about 6 days ago, more than a week after the last rasbora death. After researching, I found that kanaplex was probably my best bet, but I don’t want to lose my corkscrew vals or my other plants, or my otos, or my nerite, and seachem says it is hard on inverts and plants and some scaleless fish. On other forums, people say most of their nerites survived, and all their plants survived, but they didn’t have vals (which can be more sensitive). Nobody said anything about otos. Parameters: pH: 7.8 Ammonia: 0 Nitrites: 0 Nitrates: 10 Temp: 79.5F KH was high last time I checked it, but I haven’t checked it in a while because it remained steady for a long time and I do regular water changes with tap water and it is fairly hard tap water. I always have to double-dose my Prime because of the chloramines present in my tap water. Other tank inhabitants: 3 otos, one zebra nerite, 2 emerald-eye rasboras (2/4 rasboras died suddenly after I added the otos two weeks ago; no symptoms…betta may have reacted to more stock being added to his happy equilibrium and killed them…or maybe columnaris killed them due to their own stress after the otos). If this was columnaris, wouldn’t the betta most likely be dead already? Or noticeably worse? Wouldn’t the other rasboras or the otos be showing signs of it too? (They’re not, even though I know the rasboras are stressed from losing their school from the way they hang out with their reflections and zip around.)
  4. 10 gallon planted with 2 sponge filters. Water parameters: Temp - 78F Nitrate - 0 (I know, I need to feed my plants, I've been worried more about the fish lately) Nitrite - 0 GH (ppm) - 300 (I think - aquarium coop test kit, light lavender) KH (ppm) - 80 pH - 7.2 Chlorine - 0 Ammonia - 0 Okay guys, I don't know what I'm doing. I'm still fairly new to the hobby, but I've been trying my best to care for my betta, Mushi. I got him 8/31/21, so I haven't had him long, but he's already been scaring me to death this month. I feed him Hikari freeze dried daphnia, Hikari betta bio-gold, and frozen spirulina brine shrimp. I only ever accidentally overfed him once at the beginning of this month (with the brine shrimp), and I think that's where all this started. I fasted him for 2-3 days after overfeeding (he had gotten bloated), and his bloat did decrease significantly to where he was either back to normal or close enough to it that my untrained eyes couldn't tell. I fasted one more day just to be sure. The next day I couldn't find him anywhere and was really starting to worry when I found him hiding/cornering between two floating plants. He had no appetite despite the several day fast and had actually bloated up again. Water parameters were similar to what I outlined above; only difference was probably nitrates but still within acceptable range. I did a 10% WC anyway and added a catappa leaf. The day after he was still hiding and had severe pineconing. I did a 5% WC just because, but was pretty much panicking so I started medicating with Fritz Maracyn. I did a full course treatment (5 days, no WC). He got his appetite back on day 2, energy back day 3, and bloat was down day 4 but the pineconing was still pretty severe on his left side (whitish at the base and looked like some scales were going to fall off). On day 5 his pineconing was significantly reduced, but there was a circular white area with what looked like a singular stringy white strand right behind his left pectoral fin where the pineconing (and bloat) had been the worst. I think he did lose some scales and this was the result. The stringy bit was gone the day after and the sore or whatever it was rapidly healed. I also did a 25% WC. Also, that's not ich or a sore on his face, he swam past some detritus caught in a floater's roots. Again, to be safe, I rested him a couple days like the package says and then did another round of treatment (1 packet/5 days). The last day for that was 11/14, and I still saw slight pineconing. Nowhere near as bad as before, but I think any is bad. I also did a 25% WC on the 15th and did a 10% WC today (will probably do 10% every other day unless someone gives me different advice). The rest of the photos are from today (11/17/21). He also still looks slightly bloated, though not as bad as before, and I've been feeding him every other day. I'd say I'm even feeding him incredibly sparingly, just one meal a day, no bigger than his eyeball. So all that to ask, do I treat him with Maracyn again? Do I just keep treating him until he stops pineconing? He's already been through 2 full courses of treatment so I don't know if that's the right move. Should I try an Epsom salt soak for 15 minutes like I've heard? I'd have to pick it up tomorrow. And not only all that, but I'm wondering if I should be concerned about the state of his poop? I know it can be an indicator of health issues and, well, he's pooping in the pic so I guess you can tell me if I need to change up his diet. I don't know what to do guys and I'm feeling really discouraged. I'd appreciate any help.
  5. Is the quarantine medication trio (Fritz paracleanse, Mardel Maracyn, and Ich-x) safe for beneficial bacteria and plants? I’m mostly worried about the Mardel Maracyn because many have said it does harm beneficial bacteria as it’s active ingredient erythromycin can attack nitrifying bacteria. Some say it only affects beneficial bacteria in newer tanks which I may fall into that category as my tank just finished cycling. I figured I could use the medication trio in my cycled, planted tank for my betta fish as it will be the first fish introduced to the tank but how is that possible if Mardel Maracyn affects beneficial bacteria? I really wouldn’t want to have to fish - in - cycle if the maracyn were to kill the beneficial bacteria with the betta fish in the tank. Thanks 🙂
  6. Hi, I think my betta fish has a mild case of fin rot and I was wondering if the aquarium co-op method of using a single dose of ich-x and maracyn is effective. I added my betta a couple months ago into an established (about 9 months old) 10g tank with 3 zebra danios, a red minor tetra, and a snail. About 3 weeks ago I decided to add 3 more zebra danios because one was killed by the other 2. About 2 weeks ago I noticed my betta's fins were getting clearer and more ragged around the edges. I suspect that adding the extra zebras may have stressed my betta and started the fin rot. I tested my water and it had 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrites, and 20ppm nitrates. I moved my betta into a hospital bowl and treated him for over a week with aquarium salt and daily water changes, gradually increasing the dose to 3tsp per gallon. This seemed to slow down the sickness but it looked like it was still getting worse. My betta seems to be acting healthy minus the look of his fins but I didn't want to take any chances so I decided to go with a stronger treatment. I watched the aquarium co-op video on how to treat fin rot and decided to try this method. Here are a few current pics of him sorry for the bad quality. To me it seems like his fins are slowly losing color and receding. Its more noticeable on his top fin. I'm still not 100% sure this is fin rot because his fins are not completely deteriorating but they do seem like they have gotten worse over the past 2 weeks. Do you guys think this is fin rot and I should keep treating it? I have just moved my betta to a hospital 10g with a heater and bubbler and added 1 packet of Maracyn and 1 tsp of Ich-X. I guess my question is will a single dose of each med be enough for a week of treatment? I'm asking this because both medicines say to dose daily throughout the treatment and I haven't found much information online of whether the aquarium co-op approach works. I want to be able to treat my betta within this week because I will be going out of town soon and it will be a little harder to have someone else treat him when I'm gone. Thank you for any help or advice.
  7. I brought 6 Julii Corydoras home from my LFS yesterday, put them into quarantine, and fed them live bloodworms hoping to fatten them up before medicating. One had what I thought was an injured Pectoral fin and possible injury to his swim bladder. I put him into a separate nursery tank I was preparing that had already been medicated with Methylene Blue, hoping to prevent infection. This morning he had passed away, and I noticed that a few of the other Corys now had large portions of their fins missing and fraying. Other than the damaged fins, I have not seen any signs of the remaining 5 acting unusual. They are resting together in their shoal and traveling up to the top of the tank for air. I am guessing this is fin rot, but I have never dealt with this before with my livebearers. The picture I added is the one who seems to be in the worst shape. His entire tailfin has completely frayed away. I have added aquarium salt to their tank at half the usual dose; although, I know there is conflicting information about how sensitive to it corys really are. On hand, I have the Quarantine Trio, Methylene Blue, API Aquarium Salt and Malachite Green. In the past, I have known people to use Maracyn 2 for Fin rot, but I can't find it anywhere at a reasonable price or that could be shipped to me in time. Will regular Maracyn work? Should I go get Malefix from Petco? Water Parameters: pH: 7.2 Nitrates: ~15 ppm Hardness: ~200 ppm Nitrite: 0 ppm Ammonia: 0 ppm KH/Buffer: ~40 ppm Water Temperature: 79.1F
  8. What’s the difference in the two? And will both help with blue green algae
  9. So, one of my tanks (classic guppies/snails/shrimp tank) had some clear parasite issues so I medicated it with paracleanse according to Aquarium Coop's directions and that is going very well. However I decided to medicate another tank I have because I have been using the same nets back and forth and some of the mollies there had clamped fins and another fish there had recently got half her tail bitten off so I figured the antibacterial and anti fungal wouldn't hurt so I hit it with the full classic trio, Marycin, ich-x and paracleanse. The morning after, the tank is super cloudy, fish gasping for air and my salvini male starts showing some extreme dying behaviour (sinking to the bottom, smashing into the substrate and decor, floating upside down, etc...). So I did a 80% waterchange and added an airstone but meanwhile the salvini male died. Has anyone had a similar experience with those meds? I think they might have maybe killed a lot of beneficial bacteria and/or depleted the water of oxygen.
  10. Hello! Unfortunately I've spotted a small patch of columnaris on one of my leopard danios in QT - I've already dosed Ich-X (was already treating for it) and put one treatment of maracyn in today, although I'm still concerned because..well I've never hard anything survive columnaris unfortunately. Would it be helpful to supplement with a low amount of aquarium salt, or do you think the meds are enough/salt would add just more stress? Thanks!
  11. So I have had 7 Paracyprichromis nigripinnis (Blue neon herring cichlid) in a tank by themselves for about 6 weeks. I had no deaths for the first 4 weeks (except one a few days after they arrived, I don't think it handled the overnight shipping well - I ordered 8 and it was pale and lethargic compared to the others). Then I had one die with no symptoms, parameters were all perfect (0 amm. 0 nitr. 5-10 nitr. dkh 14 dgh 18 ph 8.0 temp 77), then another several days later, still no symptoms. So I decided to treat with Maracyn and ParaCleanse, per Aquarium Coop treatment suggestions on Wednesday, after vacuuming the tank and doing a water change. I haven't fed since then, and I noticed a bacterial bloom this evening. Tested parameters, sure enough I had detectable nitrite (0 amm. 0.25 nitr. 10 nitr. dkh 14 dgh 18 ph 8.0 temp 77). So I did a 70% water change, being sure to match the parameters before changing. I find this interesting, as @Bill Smith mentioned in a post that he always has bacterial blooms after a Maracyn treatment. I add baking soda and epsom salt to my tap for this tank, since its a Tanganyikan tank. Bill's thought that he gets bacteria blooms while Aquarium Coop didn't in their testing was due to his water hardness. Curious if that could be the case here, since I have such hard water in this tank? I'm also currently treating a 5.5 gallon tank with a group of 9 juvenile white clouds that I just purchased, I haven't yet had a bloom in that tank, but it just has water from my tap, which is sourced from our well (7.4 ph, 4 dkh, 7 dgh). I also am treating that one prophylactically with Ich-X, which I'm not doing is this tank, since none of the fish have shown signs of Ich. I am planning to follow the current treatment with a course of Ich-X for this tank, I was just spacing them out since the Paracyps seem to be more sensitive.
  12. Getting some new fish today and I'm out of (or misplaced) maracyn for qt. Can I use tbe api em in it's place?
  13. Hello, I knocked my lighting unit into the tank and it struck my giant female betta. She now has popeye and a gash near her eye. She is eating, thank goodness. Should I start treating her with anything in the event it becomes infected? She is in a planted 20gallon long with 15 tetras, some snails, and shrimp. Water peramiters are all good. Temp is approx 81 degrees. I turned the light off to make her eye more comfortable. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
  14. This old man has been in my tank for a few years now, but he isn’t looking too good recently. What do you think it is? I recently did a dose of Maracyn in this tank because I had several Mollies staying in the substrate I moved those to a QT tank and treated them with Maracyn before treating them with Paracleanse because all but two became very thin. I have lost two of the six that I had moved and still have four. Three appear to be on the mend, but one of them is still on the bottom and sunken in I’m going to run another dose of Paracleanse in the QT this week. Don’t mind the cloudy water, I literally just dropped frozen baby brine in haha
  15. Anyone have any feedback/ideas about maracyn oxy for fungus killing. It's sodium chlorite....I believe...SALT?? THANKS! Kifflyn
  16. I bought the 3 medications that Cory recommended for using in a quarantine tank and now I can't find the video, Ich-X, Maracyn and ParaCleanse. Anyone remember how he uses them?
  17. Hello all! My Delta tail betta had been nipping his fins and tail. He's looking ragged. I have added a Cattawpa leaf, have limited his light to about 2 hrs a day, and exercise him with a mirror. I was thinking of being proactive and adding Maracyn to prevent any possibility of fin rot, but there are two Mystery snails in his tank as well. Will they be okay?
  18. Curious. I have a bad/recurring case of Cyano in one tank in particular (which may have also cross-contaminated to our two other tanks? Unsure there...looking for advice to end this completely in all. All that being said I also have a question that relates directly to this AQ Coop Blog: https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/blue-green-alga Simply the blog states: "To begin treatment, scrub off as much of the blue-green algae as possible and remove it with a siphon. After vacuuming the substrate and refilling the tank, add one full dose of Maracyn (which is 1 packet per 10 gallons of water), and let the aquarium sit for one week before doing another water change. The earlier you treat the outbreak, the easier it is to eradicate. If the blue-green algae is very thick and widespread, you may need to repeat the treatment several times to completely remove the colony." So on the Maracyn packet, it states to dose for 5 days? Wondering did I read something wrong in the blog or on the Maracyn pack? Or is the direction different in the blog as it writing towards the purpose of killing the Cyano vs. curing fish? And to provide some extra background info: I did do this about 1.5 years ago. When I did so, we went on vacation and my brother & nephew maintained the last day or so of the tank meds. Upon return we had lost 1 frog (2 survived). Unsure if that was due to the meds or otherwise. Also upon return the tank appeared to have No signs of Cyno? But maybe something was re-introduced, or other-wise. A few more details about the tank. I chose the Maracyn route as I understood it is considered generally safe for the African Dwarf Frogs and and the Cyano was all over more or less. I had initially thought it was just algae and that I needed another snail. 😞 Also the sand has plants: some low growing Valisneria (it never grows high, maybe due to the cyano?), a few/two? buce plants, and a sand substrate (horrible with the cyano!). It's a 20L with an Aquaclear 30 filter. There is also an Volcano with some air pumping through it. Currently this tank houses 6 cherry barbs, 2 ADF's, a pagoda snail, 2 horned nerites, and 1 kupa nerite. Much appreciate the assistance.
  19. My new 10 gal QT tank is finally set up. I added 4 Julii Cory cats. 1 was dead in the morning (was very pale when I got him, so not surprised). I noticed 2 more were pale with bulging eyes. I had dosed the tank with 1 tsp ich X and 1 packet of Maracyn. Brought in 2 more of the same fish (store exchanged for me). Had to go out and the 2 with the bad eyes were dead when I got home. They all came from the same source, so I want to treat for the popeye (assuming that’s what is was) since they all shared the same water and from same source. Is it safe to continue Maracyn treatment even though that 1 dose of ich x was put in? Is Maracyn the best treatment? Don’t have any pictures as the remaining fish look ok right now. 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 5 nitrate temp 78-79, ph 7.2, very hard water
  20. I got 12 new guppies to restock an empty 24gal aquarium from both Petsmart and Petco. While in the 10gal receiving tank I ran one full application of Paracleanse and had just started a round of Ich - X (I didn't know I could apply them all together at the same time...) when two of the males began having a hard time swimming, and one of the females began to get a white patch on her back (Pics). I went to start a treatment of Maracyn, but realized I bought Maracyn Two instead of the regular. I ordered it promptly but all three died the following day, and a second female got the white patch. This last Thursday I started treating them with salt, at 1Tbsp per 2 gal of water. This seemed to clear up the white patches, but the guppies still got lethargic and died... As of today, 3/13 I only have two guppies left and the Maracyn just came in. Is it ok to add Maracyn during salt treatments? Or do I need to start water changes? What else could be affecting these guppies? Thank you!
  21. Hi Folks, I have been doing a round of ParaCleanse (on day 3 atm) on my tank when I noticed a bit of fin rot on a couple of my corydoras. Is it possible to use Maracyn in conjunction with ParaCleanse as a full dose? I won’t be adding any more packets of ParaCleanse after today. Can I add Maracyn starting tomorrow or even as early as tonight? TIA! pH 7.4 Nitrates 0 Hardness 71.6 Nitrite 0 Ammonia 0 KH/Buffer 89.5 Water Temperature 77
  22. I am wondering which is better? Maracyn treats gram positive, but Maracyn 2 is good for both positive and negative. Wouldn't it be better to treat for both types of bacteria? I am going to set up a quarantine tank so there is not active infection but as a precaution wouldn't Maracyn 2 treat what Maracyn does anyway plus the gram negative as well?
  23. Hi, the instruction on back of the package is a little confusing. I have a 40 gallon tank, do I put 4 pack of the Maracyn in the tank day 1? Or 1 pack per day up to day 4 with my 40 gallon?
  24. Has anybody had trouble with maracyn and paraclense making their water cloudy. Started treating for a bacterial infection 2 days ago and my tank is now super cloudy. Also happened to.my 75 gallon tank when I treated it for parasites. Im.following the instructions closely. Almost lost all my fish in my 75 I guess the meds depleted the oxygen. Idk I just need help.
  25. Kanaplex or marycin 2 they seem to treat the same things but which do you guys think is more reliable?
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