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Daniel

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Everything posted by Daniel

  1. Yes it is. More specifically it is fossilized organic material.🙂
  2. Josha, welcome to the forum! I appreciate your enthusiasm and enjoyed your earlier video, very thought provoking. Just thought you should know there is a forum guideline prohibiting self promotion of one's own social media sites.
  3. I agree with @gulf coast guppies above that either Wonder-Shell or crushed coral would be a good choice as both will dissolve as needed and are therefore a more gentle way to adjust calcium levels.
  4. Daniel

    Red feces.

    Yes, what your fish eat definitely influences the color of their feces. Nothing about your photo would give me cause for concern (I realize that wasn't a photo of what caused you to be concerned). If their behavior is normal then watching them carefully but doing nothing is probably your best bet.
  5. Here is an excellent series of post on fishkeeping basics: Freshwater Aquarium Blog - Aquarium Co-Op WWW.AQUARIUMCOOP.COM
  6. My non store bought stands run the gamut from Singer sewing machine stands to tool chests to concrete blocks and lumber
  7. My current settings are more equatorial. Even though I live 35° from the equator my settings are for a location 15° from the equator which is actually very similar to Guam! This is more appropriate for the tropical species I keep in the aquariums under lights controlled by the season table. I don't know that this make any difference to my fish, I just do it because I can. My pygmy sunfish are in the 1930s aquarium which gets its light from the south window it sits next to. Since the pygmy sunfish are native to my latitude the day night cycles are just what they are evolved to expect. I wish I could say I thought all this through when I was first setting everything up, but in reality it didn't occur to me until later.
  8. The Neptune Apex has a 'Season Table' I tell the outlet(s) for the lights to use this code: Which turns the lights on and off according to the dates and times in the 'Season Table'.
  9. I use an even easier solution. Under-powered heaters. The aquariums lights add 2 - 3 °F during daylight hours allowing the aquariums to reach almost 79°F. But when the lights go off at night the aquariums drop back to 75 - 76°F. Here are three 40 gallon aquariums I am currently tracking below: By using 50 watt heaters in a 40 gallon aquariums the heaters run continuously. This results in a sine wave like day night differential. And because the lights are on a seasonal schedule that tracks local sunrise and sunset turning on a minute later each morning and turning off a minute earlier each evening (at least for a few more days until this process will reverse) the heating sine wave follows this seasonal lighting schedule.
  10. @Brandy asks above about how much Easy Green is in 1 pump of Easy Green? I have tested this several times on different pumps and different bottles and it is never more than 0.7 mL and never less than 0.6 mL. Here is a test from a few minutes ago. 16 pumps into a 10 mL calibrated volumetric flask. Which yields a result of 0.625 mL per pump.
  11. I love any of the John Eastman books. What is so wonderful are the many stories about the plants, animals and insects of the woods and fields around your house. Stories about who depends on whom and life histories. It really fires the imagination! These are only a couple of the books in the series. There are many more.
  12. I think I have hydra in both my fry aquariums and in my aquariums with ghost shrimp. I definitely wouldn't use anything chemical to get rid of them. Personally, I think they are cool interesting members of the ecosystem, but others don't share that view. I don't have any hydra in aquariums with adult fish in the tank. I have seen sparkling gouramis, guppies, swordtails, all munch down on a hydra, and if your aquarium has any livebearers or gouramis you will probably have zero hydra. Their population drops drastically also when there is no free swimming food for them to eat. The reason my fry aquariums have hydra is because I feed those aquariums baby brine shrimp and baby Daphnia. Once the food source is cut off, the hydra disappear. Here is a hydra in one of my baby sparkling gourami green water aquariums catching baby brine shrimp.
  13. The green water is the food for the tiny things that your fish feed upon. The green water is like green grass in a pasture in that it only needs strong light and fertilizer to grow. What makes the green water green is free floating single celled algae. The tiny things that eat green water are typically Daphnia, cyclops and rotifers with Daphnia the being largest and the rotifers being so small they are nearly invisible. A large baby fish like guppy fry could eat small Daphnia, but tiny babies like sparkling gourami fry can only manage to eat rotifers. Without the green water, I couldn't grow rotifers. And without the rotifers It would have been hard to grow baby sparking gouramis. Here is a baby sparkling gourami living in a green water aquarium and eating a rotifer.
  14. The tank and house were built at the same time so one wall of the house was left open. All the plumbing for the aquarium was laid in place before the concrete slab for the ground floor was poured. When it was time the aquarium was brought in on a forklift and then set on the stand.
  15. I love, The Fifth Element, Groundhog Day, and Once Upon a Time in the West. So if The Princess Bride makes your list, I think I have got to see it.
  16. No worries. When you buy a Neptune Apex controller your data can be viewed on their website and on a phone app too. All you have to do is give them an initial $800 and your data and they will show it to you. 🙂 Here is a link to an earlier discussion: The main drawback is that it is expensive.
  17. I would go with what you have first. I agree with @s1_ that you might be surprised how well they do. That is also a pretty nifty chart. I compared the chart to my experience with running 50 watt heaters in 40 gallon aquariums to raise the temperature 5°F over room temperature and the chart was a decent guide. @Struggle mentioned running under-powered heaters which is what I do. The heaters never turn off because they never reach their set-point of 80°F. I believe this prolongs the life of the heater and definitely prevents any overheating which is the primary danger from heater failure. As @MickS77 mentions, a separate heater controller is always a good idea.
  18. Mollies were introduced to Hawaii a little more than 100 years ago as form of mosquito control.
  19. I use something that solves half of your problem, the half that allows remote sensing and control over your aquariums parameters. I use a Neptune Apex. Here is what the phone app part looks like screen captured off of my phone: The half it doesn't solve is the cheap part, as it is definitely not cheap. But even if you find a $50 wi-fi thermometer and buy 15 of them, that could run $750 (about the price of an Apex). The Apex can monitor and control almost anything aquarium related and becomes price competitive when applied to many aquariums or aquariums with valuable livestock. If I never ever measured any parameter I don't think my aquarium keeping would suffer. Sometimes knowing pH or ammonia causes you to do more harm than good. The reason I use products like the Apex is I like technology and combining sensors and controllers with fishkeeping allows me to combine both hobbies.
  20. There has been quite a bit of discussion on Fluval 3.0 settings on this thread:
  21. I bought that Singer sewing machine stand at the same estate sale as the aquarium. They both show up in this Christmas 2009 photograph, so that is probably when I got them. I have no memory of this. 🙂
  22. I know! I can't always make it happen on cue. Even though sunlight you don't always get green water, I am pretty sure with this tank it has to be the sunlight.
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