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About Me

Found 17 results

  1. I have an idea. If you can do a geographically accurate biotope aquarium, why can't you do a historically accurate aquarium. Sort of a historotope if I'm allowed one neologism here. At an estate sale a while back, I acquired a 1930s era aquarium with a metal frame and a slate bottom. This is not one of those stainless steel MetaFrame aquariums everyone (including me) had back in the 1960s and the 1970s. It is clearly something much older. Everything about the aquarium was in good shape when I got it, and it was watertight. Last year when I was using it to grow mosquito larva outside I forgot to bring it in when it got cold. When ice formed in the tank the expanding ice blew out one of the glass sides. So, what might the rules be for a historotope? Rules: You are only allowed to use equipment available during your chosen time period. You are only allowed to keep fishes that were available during your chosen time period. You must use historically accurate foods. You must use historically accurate plants. You must use historically accurate substrate and decorations. You must use historically accurate maintenance methods. Since I have the aquarium (once I get it repaired), my chosen time period will be the mid-1930s in the United States. My first step is to get the tank water tight again. I will post more later as this experiment progresses and your thoughts and suggestions come in.
  2. Hi everyone! Going to try out this journal thing. I currently have a Home Depot rack with 11 tanks on it. I drilled the tanks and ran a drain to a sump pump in another room, and I have a linear piston air pump powering them. I fill a 32g trash can with tap water and Prime for water changes. Here's what it looks like: The things I'd like to improve upon by building a fish room: I'm powering the entire rack (4 lights, 9 tank heaters, 1 AquaClear) with a single 15A non-GFCI outlet, and there isn't another outlet nearby. So I'm going to carefully plan outlet locations/breakers/GFCI/etc. In addition to the tank heaters, I have an electric oil heater warming the room to 75, but the room is pretty large, and includes a stairwell to the first floor. Ideally I'll be able to heat a smaller room to a consistent temp, and do away with most of the in-tank heaters. I'm going to plan an automatic water change system, so this is a good opportunity to incorporate that. I'd like to add a sink, so that I can do things like rinse test tubes or make brine shrimp without running up and down the steps. I have an idea to do 2 separate lighting circuits, so that I can have much lower brightness lights on for longer during the day without growing a lot of algae. I'd also like to make the room a lot brighter overall. More tanks! I'm already running out of room, so I'd like to plan for at least 40-50 tanks, but will likely start closer to 20-25. And probably wishful thinking, but I think I can keep the room more organized if I plan storage/etc better. This part of our basement is naturally split by a support column, I-beam, and soffit for HVAC ducts. These make the ceiling pretty low, but I think I can make it up with thin shelving and spreading out a bit more. Here are the dimensions I'm planning on: The bottom wall will be new, and that door will be the entry door. The right door goes to storage and our HVAC system. The top door is a thin room with our electrical panel, water heater, and oil tank. I'm hoping I can fit a ~75-100g water tote in there. Here's the space after draping some plastic: And the other side where the fish rack currently is: I spent last weekend framing it out and installing a door. Here's what it looks like now: This was my first time using steel studs. They're really great! You can carry 10 through a house under one arm, they cut easily with metal shears, and the room wasn't covered in sawdust when I was done. They were also about the same price as wood 2x4s. I chose them because the other basement walls were already steel studs, and some suggested that basements use metal instead of wood framing due to moisture. I had to get creative with keeping the existing drain and air PVC functional: Next up is electrical! Hoping to find some time this weekend to wire outlets and install new breakers.
  3. I am getting ready to start my fishroom build in the house we moved into about a year ago. In all honesty it is for now really going to be a rack and it is in the laundry room but I am putting in a lot of the infrastructure and have plans on how it will expand in the future. to start off I have shot a video on a custom overflow solution that was designed and suggested to my by @Dean’s Fishroom. It's an exciting option that will make servicing my 10 gallons super easy. I'll be following this post in the thread with photos of the current space, drafted plans of the rack and systems and then progress on the build.
  4. It has four walls now I can call it a fishroom right? What started earlier this year as a single rack of tanks, my nerm-side got the best of me. My desire to expand and add more tanks came from two things. That 40B is now a thriving Guppy colony and I'd like to try line breeding some of the color strains. The second thing was wanting to heat the room not, relying completely on individual heaters. Being in northern PA and the tanks being in the basement it can easily dip into the low the 60's (F) down there. I started in late September with the Dollar Per Gallon sale getting the tanks I wanted. Six 10s, two 20Hs, and two 5.5s. I like painting the bottoms black for a cleaner look. I prefer having bare bottom tanks for easier maintenance. I have also noticed less algae growth on the bottoms of the tanks that are painted black. I use Gloss Black Rust-oleum Enamel Paint. Next step was to enclose the area where the tanks are. They sit in a corner of my basement so I only have to make two walls. I like building simply and effectively to reach my goals. To enclose the tanks I made a framework using 1x2 furring strips and 1/2" styrofoam panels as insulation. After that I needed to move the 40B and the shelf it was on. I did that by draining it to about 3 inches of water. Lifting the shelf enough to get furniture sliders under each leg and sliding it out of the way. I used a Nano USB pump and airstone to keep the water moving for the day while I prepared the new rack. I also added some insulating panels to the wall to keep the heat in the room. Once I had the 3/4" plywood cut and painted for the bottom shelf I leveled the rack. I was then able to move the 40B to its new location. To move it, I drained another inch or so water from it and had someone help slide if off the old shelf onto the new one. It wasn't as sketchy as I was fearing, not as heavy either with a bag of eco-complete and little water. I refilled it immediately and didn't lose any fish in the process. Next since the major construction was done I added heavy vinyl curtains to act as doors. Then I placed the new tanks on the rack and got the heater running to get in dialed in. I will still run the individual heaters in the tanks until I'm confident the room will stay warm enough. I added the warning label for any visitors. I added thermometers around the room to monitor the temperature. I picked up a full 4x8 foot sheet of 1/8" thick glass from a local shop to begin making lids. I have the shop cut the sheet in half to fit it in the back of my truck. Once home I set up a work table in the garage on sawhorses, carefully slid the glass out and begin making the cuts I need. I like making the lid opening 5" wide and clipping the corners for the airline heater cord to enter. Lighting next, for that I use all 36" Finnex Stingray lights. Had a small issue mounting them under the shelf as there is metal supports in the way. I made some quick spacers out of scrap wood and used Kreg jig to make pocket screw holes for mounting them. It worked great and I could finally see easier having the lights installed. All the lights on both racks are controlled by a single Kasa wifi timer. Really the last thing left to do is layout and install the air system, connecting it to my first rack. The air system on the first rack is run off a Linear Piston Pump the same one sold by ACO. I use 3/4" pvc and #10-32 tapped plastic airline valves. I like those because they can be used for both air and water. I mocked up the loop on the front of the rack to get the measurements required. I'm using 3/4" barbs and vinyl tubing to connect this loop to the original one. Once laid out, I took everything apart to drill and tap the holes. Dean's tip of using a piece of tape to make a straight line is excellent for lining up your marks along the pipe. I like to use an automatic center punch as well to mark the holes and prevent the drill bit from wandering when starting the hole. Nice and in line. Both air loops now tied together. With the air in I was able to trim and install the mattenfilters in the new tanks. I found its really nice to cut the foam using hot foam cutting pen. While rearranging everything I did lose a lot of storage space. I was however to clean out some old junk and boxes and fit all the my supplies into bins under each rack. I did fit a small plastic shelf in between the racks for some additional storage. This morning I finally filled all the tanks and got them running. I already have some new fish in the rack, some Red & Blue Colombian Tetras. They came into my LFS and I set up one tank this week to house them. Without the mattenfilter cycled yet I added cycled sponge filter into the tank. I realize this a quick breakdown of how I expanded into a fishroom so please feel free to ask any questions you may have. I look forward to adding to this thread all future breeding projects and builds.
  5. I would like to build a small aquarium stand like the one in this video from The King of DIY. I have a few questions, as I'm pretty new to any carpentry. First, you have to pick out straight boards from the hardware store. Will this be easier if I go to a lumber store/yard instead of a big box hardware store? I expect there would be an associated increased cost, but if it saves me a significant amount of time, I'd be ok with that. (Within reason.) My other concern is making straight cuts. I think there aren't many ways to cut corners on this (lol.) I'm trying to find a friend that can do the job for me, or maybe someone on taskrabbit or Craigslist. I just KNOW it is super easy for SOMEONE out there! I am extremely limited on space (3rd floor apartment, the only area I can work in is a small balcony. It's enough space to put the rack together, but I can't buy a table saw or the like.) Any other tips for building this, or recommendations for building stuff in tiny spaces? I'm planning to have it hold two 10gal tanks, so it will be smaller than the one in the video. I've done my share of DIY and crafty stuff, but this one... this one needs to be RIGHT or there will be a disaster! Lol
  6. I am in the final stages of setting up my fish room, and I have this gap all the way around between the wood trim and the floor. It was suggested that I put backing rod in and seal it with caulk, but this is a 3/4” gap. I’m not a messy fish keeper, but I really do need to fill that space in the event that water does end up on the floor. Any suggestions?
  7. terrariums/jarrariums are quickly catching up to aquariums as my favorite and they are even more dangerous because they can be small. not much you can keep in a small tank but you can in a terrarium. and there are no water changes and if set up correctly, no maintenance besides plant trimming and an occasional misting. no filters, heaters, etc needed. sales pitch over 😂 this was my jumping spider’s previous terrarium set up: not too bad but im not a fan of tank gravel and i wanted to make it bioactive with scavengers/detritivores like isopodes which cant live in the gravel. and the remake: you can see her at the top center lots of ivy in the back that is going to take over hopefully soon. alder cones as small pine cones i really wanted to give her lots of branches and decorations to climb on and wanted it to look like an overgrown forest. im pretty pleased with it. plants: moss (a wildtype i dont know from my backyard, sphagnum, spanish, and sheet), arrowhead, english ivy, and the plant that is sold for aquariums but is terrestrial that i cant remember the name of. substrate: rocks as a drainage area, bioactive terrarium substrate mix, topped with a mix of fluorite and stratum. the terrarium substrate ive had in a tub with a culture of springtails in it. ill be adding more of my little projects in this thread 😊
  8. I haven’t done a brine shrimp pond in years and I decided now that I’m hatching baby brine shrimp every day, it was time to grow some adults. first I had to get rid of the duckweed from the pond. I left in the muck and little bits of plants. The salt will kill them and fuel some green water once the sun hits it for a few days. It always amazes me how much salt goes into saltwater. I did 50 cups of salt for 100 gallons. This instant ocean salt I had already. I don’t like it as much as fritz salts but for a brine shrimp pond it’ll do. I’m running a usb air pump with a never clog air stone mostly to just mix the salt and keep the water from getting too stagnant. I’ve run the brine ponds before with no airation and I find it runs a little cleaner it seems with air.
  9. I don't mean huge, but like 90-225 gallon tanks? I don't have a LFS, and I don't see any large tanks anywhere near me on craigslist or facebook market. I'll soon have some extra space in my office, so I am going to put together another of the cinder block and wood stands. I can go one level with a 5 foot tank or two levels if I do 4 foot tanks, but the largest I can seem to find around me is 55 gallon tanks.
  10. Hey Nerms, Scored (2) 90 gallon brand new tanks off Facebook marketplace... Need to build them now but starting with one Look for the best shopping list through Aquarium Co-Op... Here is what i got so far for the first tank 2x usb air pumps 2x large sponge filters 2x no clog air stones 25ft tubing Filter Media Pre-filter sponges 3x plant holders 2x amazon sward 1x scarlet temple 1x easy root tabs Question, would yall change anything above? am I missing anything? I am going to need other items I cant get from the Co-Op like substrate (Black gravel), going with two HOB filters that honestly I will probably hot rod( I don't want a canister filter), and I have lights already. Have chemicals but thinking I might order the fritz products to help start...thoughts?
  11. Can we start a discussion on diy tank builds etc it’s no secrete this hobby can be expensive. From purchasing the fish fish foods chemicals medication and then don’t forget plants! No offense to KGTropicals but I don’t know how someone can have a tank longer than few months and not want REAL plants. Set that aside my point is tanks currently my biggest is 135 gal I have two oscars that was potentially stunted the male 11in female 9in and green terror at any rate also have some grow out my point is. I’m at the point I need At least 300gal to properly home them together when that time comes. none of them are even remotely close to being ready aside from the BPchiclid. But I don’t want to get to that point where I don’t have the time. 300gal tank is gonna cost thousands. Unless some how find deal on used. Been trying to watch king of dye on YouTube. But I want real answers from real people with real ideas so if you have built your own tank!!! Or such can you share pictures ideas links or if privy your source to a cheep tank it be much obliged thanks so much if you made to end of this I know it’s a lot to digest.
  12. Continuing building out my YouTube Studio and my wife was kind and made me an awesome sign with my favorite quote. Do not know who the author is but the owner of the LFS I have been working closely with said it one night and it rang true with me.
  13. Waterfall Jungle Tank Build Hey all! Towards the end of last year I was browsing etsy and came across this handmade resin medusa statue (that I unfortunately did not take photos of). She was handpainted so I coated her with a few layers of white krylon fusion spray paint. The resin the artist used was aquarium safe (always message and ask!). I really wanted to make an overgrown, jungle-esque, tank with the statue as the centerpiece. Eventually I want it to be covered in moss and look ancient. I built the tank and stand and have had the plants growing in but I am actually going to tear it down this weekend and redo the scape and planting. I accidentally piled the substrate up way to high and I am not a fan of the look. I wanted to create this journal to show how I built this and to say what did and did not work. The Stand The stand was pretty straight-foward but I did want it to have a natural and minimalistic look from the beginning. I purchased an 8 foot butcher block from the hardware store and used that to make the entire stand including the legs (I wanted them to match in appearance). Wood was stained, I didn't take progress photos since I did not think I was going to share this build with anyone. I also assume most people have built basic stands before. I did want to have a bottom shelf which was built into the stand. dog tax final stand. It actually ended up not being as stable as I thought it would be when the tank was on the tank so I did make one change. I used some basic 2x4s to create a skirt that the bottom shelf sits on and removed the two ledges. They did not provide as much structural support as I thought they would. I did want to keep the top skirt-free for the aesthetical look, I find the bottom skirt is perfect for this stand. The Aquarium The tank is a low iron 25g cube from Seapora.I bought it from my lfs but this is an online listing for it: http://www.reefsolution.com/catalog/aquarium-canopy-stand-aquariums-cube-25gal-crystal-series-cube-aquarium-p-10124.html?osCsid=9fd7b31b3b0bfc84b0d4cc1d0bbbbb22 My initial plan was to have a waterfall on top of the tank. The issue is that every other build I saw used a paludarium style tank where the back glass was taller then the front glass to support the waterfall. I did not want to have it sitting inside of the tank so I decided to build a support wall for it to sit on. I ended up using a little under 3" of footprint at the back of the tank to create the support as well as a compartment to hide the filtration and heater. I used corrugated plastic since it is easy to cut and is rather durable. https://www.michaels.com/plastic-corrugated-board-by-creatology/M10567770.html. FYI! Silicone does not adhere to this very well at all. It wasn't an issue for the compartments and support but it did become an issue when building the waterfall. Sanding it down helped the silicone stick to it much better. Now it looks pretty ugly in the back, I wasn't too worried since I knew that the back would be hidden from view. I layered the pieces in a "T" repeatedly to provide good support for the waterfall sitting on top, it also kept the back panel from bowing in. I used fiberglass window screen on the openings I cut out for water flow to the back. This is to keep critters and anything else from being able to go back there. I made three large cut outs so there is plenty of flow. Here you can see the holding box that the waterfall is built around as well as the "steps" for it. Lots of silicone to waterproof it. I ended up splitting the back compartment into three sections: the left was a planter, the center was open for the filter, pump, and heater, and the right was all support for the waterfall. A top view as I was still building up the support. I cut a window into the planter (similar to the back panel) and used the screen to allow water to flow into the planter. I did not take any photos but I ended up adding 2 more planters that do not receive direct water flow from the tank, they are siliconed to the back of the tank so I can add more terrestrial plants around the waterfall. I bought quite a bit of black slate and black lava rock to use for this build, I like the look of these rocks personally and thought they fit the overall aesthetic well. You can see the little holder for the waterfall where the water is pumped into. All of the tubing is hidden by rocks which are glued or siliconed into place. I used black all purpose pond foam at first but the cure time was too slow, it did create a good base for the rocks to be glued on though. I unfortunately did not take many photos during this process but it was lots of rock layering on the sides. I bought a bag of small black lava rock that I glued to the back panel to hide the ugliness and to create my own diy background. This is the finished tank with the background built. You can see how high the substrate is and why I want to lower it. It takes away more area for the fish to swim in and really is not necessary. I knew I wanted this to be high tech with co2 and good lighting and I went back and forth on the light to use. I was initially going to go with a Kessil but the fact that you need to pay $100 just to control the light is insane and unacceptable. I did want a pendant style light hanging from the ceiling, not a strip/bar light. I also wanted it to give a beam/center light appearance in the tank to create depth, shadows, and a more dramatic look. I ended up going with an AI Prime which I am very happy with. For the substrate I used fluval stratum, only because I like the natural look of it and I had 50lbs of it sitting in storage. Otherwise I personally prefer to use a mix of fluorite and stratum as my substrate. The final shot In the left hand planter I currently have pothos, basil, golden creeping jenny, and arrowhead growing. I also have some red mangrove in the tank as well, you can see the stems sticking out. It has been doing surprisingly well in all of my tanks and is sending out air roots. You cant really see all of the plants from this angle though. I ended up sticking some pothos into the tank on the righthand side to add more greenery. I haven't planted the two back planters but those will be planted once I redo the tank. I'm thinking a nice fern in one and another bushy plant in the other (would love any suggests from you all). I also added some sheet moss to the rocks, you can see some of the white silicone that I want to cover with more moss. Changes I want to make: I am not overly happy with the waterfall itself, I plan to add more rocks and silicone to redirect the water flow a little since it doesn't flow as evenly as I hoped. Lower substrate depth Fix the crooked statue, I thought I wanted her to be slanted to look ancient/apocalyptic in a way but I'd rather have her sit straight Rearrange the scape and plants. I planted some val in there that I really regret, I forget how fast it spreads and I do not want a vallisenaria tank so I will pull that. Otherwise I want to add some red or pink plants (pink flamingo? if it's ever in stock) and rearrange some of the existing plants. I installed a little fog/mist machine but I did not make the holding box deep enough so it only works if the waterfall cap (that has rocks on it to cover the holding box) is tilted off or taken off entirely. I want to mess around and get this working properly I'll keep this thread updated with any changes I make, hopefully I can get this looking how I want it to be soon.
  14. so i love going to stores and looking for jars, bowls, and other containers to make little jarrariums and terrariums. i came across 2 pretty decently sized bowls. these have been sitting in storage for a few weeks and i decided last night that i’ll make a shrimp bowl using only the materials i have in storage. anyone else constantly buying new stuff “to try” and is left with a very full storage room? in pretty happy with how it turned out, the opening of the bowl is about 9” and it is 12” at the widest. no filter and no heater. also sorry about the bad lighting and photos, 2am me apparently cannot work a camera. also unnecessarily difficult to take photos of bowls it turns out. step 1: i decided to use my favorite substrate combo which is fluval stratum mixed with fluorite dark i love the natural look and i find those two substrates mix well together for good plant growth step 2: i have this statue cave i bought online last year that i planned to use in a jar terrarium, never got around to doing it so i forced myself to use it as a centerpiece. step 4: i had exactly two pieces of spider wood that were small enough to fit into the bowl so those are the two pieces i shoved in. i did like how they branched out and gave the appearance of arms to the statue. step 5: i had a storage container full of seiryu stone from a previous build, unfortunately it was all pretty large pieces but i was able to pick a few to put in the bowl. the stone matched the appearance of the statue pretty well and i liked the look. i thought this was going to be the final resting place but i don’t trust those ikea wall shelves and there was barely any room for a light so i moved it to my plant stand. step 6: plants! i pulled plants from the medusa jungle tank and i had a little tissue culture package of s. repens i was saving for that tank. i also pulled a few plants from the goldfish tank. if anyone could ID the moss i have that would be very appreciated. plants used: crypt lucens, crypt wendtii, red giant jungle val (excited to see how this will look in here), java ferns, wisteria, s. repens, creeping jenny, unknown moss, dwarf hairgrass, deep red ludwigia, and a few floaters step 7: fill it up and add some bacteria booster. i keep a gallon of fritz zyme bacteria in the fridge i use and its worked well for me the water was foggy this morning (i didnt rinse the fluorite, oops) so i did a 50% water change. the water is still foggy in these photos but it’ll clear like always. i’ll post good photos once it has cleared! also the light is temporary, i didnt have any nice lights to use but i am going to swap it for a nice pendant light of sorts. the moss excited about this val and how it will look long term, these are baby shoots i pulled from the gf tank
  15. https://angelfins.ca/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=Rainbow+ this is the local store I will be buying my fish from, based on selection ( I’m willing to wait for things to come back in stock) what would you guys put into two 20g aquariums that would be planted ( can purchase plants from there as well) the only catch is one tank needs to have kribs! I’m overwhelmed by the options
  16. I kept four tubs outside this summer. No filter, no air, just a bunch of plants. These are 55 gallon drums just cut in half. Super cheap to setup and hold about 25 gallons. I kept red swordtails, guppies, cherry barbs, and furcata rainbowfish. The egg scatters I had no success with the fish I put outside I brought back inside. Their colors definitely got better and they got much fatter but I did not get any fry! I think next year I will use bigger rocks at the bottom to allow the eggs to fall through and try and grow a lot more guppy grass or even try and grow hair algea! The guppies I have had a hard time with since I got them. Most guppies I can’t get to live more than 8 months. I put 9 guppies out and I brought in 11. However, none of the original 9 made it through the summer. Only the fry survived. I ended up pulling out some platinum guppies. I put in green cobra, blue neon, and purple dragon. So I got mitts that I think are more beautiful then the ones I put out. I will give them more cover next year and hope to have better success. On the most positive note I put out 3 swordtails at the beginning of the year and pulled out 39. Many are already 1-1.5 inches. And then maybe 10 new fry! I am super happy with how they turned out! If you haven’t done summer tubing I highly recommend you try it next summer!
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