Cory

I’d recommend aquarium salt as it looks like her find at beat up a bit.

This is something we could do, however this would potentially take away a revenue source from that creator. If we say share the profits, it then enters into an accounting and different tax issue which is probably not worth it to the creator for just the one item.

Do you happen to have a QT tank? I'd put 1 tablespoon of salt per 2 gallons and keep the temp at 80 degrees, with a cave like a coconut hut or something and see if she can recover. For sure she is at least stressed right now, could she be getting aggression from the male?

UV can help, but the fish look to be infected already. The one in the second picture is very under weight. I'd make sure temps were at 85 or so, and use something like Paracleans to try and get rid of worms. If they are still eating you have a chance, if they've stopped already it's pretty hard to get them back.

Sounds like some rainbow fish and some roselink sharks may be considered as well.

Really these days, waiting for a dollar a gallon sale up to 40 gallons. And after that buying new at full price is what I'd do.

This isn’t a suitable topic for this forum. As it would be against the rules to link any competitor outside of eBay or amazon. Locking this thread.

A rectangle one built correctly would hold fine, yes.

I use crushed coral mixed into my gravel to accomplish this. 1 pound per 10 gallons of water sprinkled into the gravel. This is regulated by how often you change water.

I've seen people just build rectangle stands and put it on top, making it a bow front is skill intensive. Maybe look on craigslist for a used bowfront stand?

I'm a huge fan of mutt guppies. I essentially always have a tank of them going to cull from the pure strains I work with.

The o ring would be on the outside of the filter if you removed the motor. If you haven't removed it, then that's likely not the problem.

Try reseating it with the o ring? Also make sure you have the shaft installed correctly. If it's missing a rubber grommet on the bottom it'll rattle like that as well.

You can find this information typically in the details sections of products.

Yeah that pic got cropped smaller than I'd of liked.

Well fertilizer is like maintaining a bank account. If you want to keep 20 dollars in your bank account, and you're putting in $1 in each week, but spending 1 dollar each week you'll never get there. So I myself dose heavily to get to 20. Then I can monitor how much the tank is consuming. If we find out we are spending $7 a week, I'm gonna need to make sure I put $7 back in each week. Water changes would be like giving money away to charity. Giving 50% of whatever I have away each week. If I start with $20, spend $7, I'm left with $13. I give half away to charity. I'm left with $6.50. Now I spend $7 this week and am out of money. Without the water change/charity i'd be at $13, and have an additional week to bring in the difference. I find most people try to just put in the right chemicals, when they could be looking at their ecosystem and tweaking it. An example would be with potassium you could work in some banana baby food into repashy. Or if you had pacus, just feed them bananas. Now this isn't 100% practical for everyone, but if I had a tank that was light on phosphate, and high in nitrates, i'd make sure I was feeding more flake food and less frozen food. In another thread, someone said they were dosing micro nutrients twice a week for their planted tank, this is why I let the brine shrimp water into my tanks as i use marine reef salt which is full of micronutrients. While Dean, rinses his brine shrimp, and doesn't want ammonia and the nutrients because of his small plant loads, I want the opposite knowing that if I rinse all of that off, I am dosing more fertilizer and other nutrients to make up for it. I try to blend the line between what nature does and what is visually acceptable to me. A rotting banana in the corner of my tank won't look very good, but in nature it would work. Every aquarium is different, even in the same fish room. I enjoy tweaking that system to be optimal while "adding" the least amount of raw chemicals. I strive to put the least amount of things into my aquariums. Even in the ponds that have never had a water change, they've gotten Easy green maybe 5 times in the 6-7 months they've been setup. There is tons of guppy grass in there and they produce a ton of fish. However at the warehouse, I dose fertilizer daily as that is what it takes to provide healthy plants without fish to possibly bring disease. In my 800g, currently there is only fish poop from the fish from before, no fertilizer in over a year. However once I add fish and push the plants to grow more than they are, I'll start dosing lightly as plant bio mass will increase.

Do you have a picture of the tanks? Different plants have different nutrient requirements so you may be able to solve it by switching some plants. Also Seachem makes just potassium and phosphate. Have you tested for these? As something like flake food would be high in phosphate if you are feeding that.

In my experience, Upping just nitrogen will just expose other deficiencies. For most people this is a water change issue. For reference my ponds with thick plant growth have never had a water change. The goal is a balance of nutrients, simply changing water or adding one specific macronutrient doesn’t solve the equation for most people. A tempered approach of studying how your tank is getting there works well long term as then you understand how the tank is running. my first step would be getting nitrates to 20ppm and the. Watching how many days it takes to consume that. From there you can adjust lighting, water changes, dosing and plant types to get the desired result.

Everyone should do this once, so they can appreciate the true value of a non scratched acrylic tank lol. It can be brutal when you have to be inside one. I've done a 180g before, you sweat so much being trapped inside working.

its a fast growing plant that really like lots of nitrogen in the water, its easy to starve. I've seen it grow a foot a day.

All of my tanks in my fish room and store are setup this way. Not really to do the larger water changes, mostly out of no reason to glue in the stand pipes. I don’t have a need for large water changes with an auto water change system. Rarely do I utilize the feature of being able to make them do larger water changes, only when I glued in my back grounds really.

I have talked about it in a live stream. Everything just takes time and money. Eventually.

You can definitely maximize here, but for me I like it to be super easy. I sprinkle fry food and green water in there to feed them.

From my testing over the years, there is a chemical in a lot of the common dechlorinators that kills the daphnia. This is why "aged" water is recommended. I don't know which specific chemical it is. It would be worth someone figuring that out I suppose as new clean water would be much easier with the right dechlorinator.

For me I think it's algae scraping. This is why I moved to way more ponds. Feeding, trimming plants, changing water, sponge filters, all fine. I think I'm still traumatized from like 10 years of hundreds of tanks at least once a week in a fish store setting 😛