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  1. I personally live in a country that doesn't have a huge fish selection. The best way to get rare fish is actively look for them on forums, facebook groups, message groups, etc. It sometimes takes months if not longer but eventually you'll get lucky and stumble upon someone who has them. Make sure you've got some money put aside for them as usually rare fish are expensive and you don't want to finally find them and then discover you have no funds to purchase them.
  2. This is a growth deformity. Usually the result of a lack of minerals, including calcium, iodine, magnesium, etc. either in the water, the snails diet, or both. I recommend feeding a food either for shrimp or snails that contains minerals. Also if you have soft water or many snails in a small volume of water, adding wondershells. Seeing as the snail is living in your aquarium there are likely no predators that will try to eat it. The flesh in contact with water under those cracks will calcify and the snail should be fine as long as you fix whatever issues there are with it's diet or water parameters. Good Luck!
  3. The porosity of the rock might slightly effect the rate that the rock dries at. The best way to tell is by feeling and looking at it. If it's smooth looking and feels smooth not rough it most likely isn't very porous. Shouldn't really matter if it's porous or not. More porous rock will hold more denitrifying bacteria and bio film.
  4. This might be pretty tough if impossible without a picture. Can you better describe the worms? Shape, width, length? Also did it look like the worms had eaten the fish from the inside out or outside in? Sorry for the gruesome question.
  5. My C. Nurii var. Rosen Maiden flowered underwater today! Love this plant.
  6. Seeing as these rocks were collected outside it might be a good idea to sterilize them. I don't usually sterilize any rocks I put in my aquariums. I usually only give them a scrub under the tap. If they're from the beach I doubt there are any parasites that can be transferred from salt too fresh. If it was from freshwater, drying them in the sun for a few days is also a good method to sterilize them (UV rays from the sun take care of everything...including us). Sterilizing with H2O2 - I would recommend putting the H2O2 in a spray bottle and spraying down the rocks until they're soaked in the stuff. Let the rocks dry naturally. H2O2 turns into oxygen and water so no worries there. Another method you could try is spraying or soaking (spraying is cheaper and probably just as effective) with a 70% alcohol solution. Alcohol evaporates and doesn't leave any residue and pretty much kills everything (you can rinse the rocks after if worried). If you have access to a lab like me you can use 100% alcohol too, but 70% is plenty. If you soak, soak the rock for a minute then take it out and leave it to dry. Take into account that I haven't tried this alcohol method so this is all "in theory". As long as all the alcohol has dried off it should be absolutely harmless. I clean my aquarium tools with alcohol consistently and have no issues, just haven't done that too hardscape as I don't sterilize mine/ Good Luck!
  7. Cambarellus Shufeldtii Neocaridina davidi "Painted Fire Red" Pomacea diffusa "Mystery Snail" Caridina multidentata
  8. Yes, I agree, I've already got the glass for them, just need to find the time to build them.
  9. Yes, small tanks I feel comfortable building as I am using 6mm glass and glass bracing on the top. I'll need to find my calculations, but the safety factor is between 10-20 if I'm correct. Will make a journal about how I built them soon.
  10. I'm going to use this Journal to record the building of my fish rack (named by a friend as my Crustacean Station lol). Every tank on this rack will have it's separate Journal. I will include links at the end for each tanks Journal and will update accordingly. BACKGROUND I've been in the hobby for around four years now. I started off with a 250 liter planted tank, eventually adding a 100 liter planted tank that housed a ton of neocaradina and a single Procambarus clarkii. Later that 100 liter tank would become a Super red Ancistrus, tiger endler, and mystery snail breeding tank. Around the same time I built myself a low boy, 30 liter, for Cambarellus Shufeldtii breeding. At this stage both the 100 liter and 30 liter (which was built to fit the stand exactly) are sitting on a heavy wooden shelving unit I bought, second hand, from someone who brought them to my country from Mexico (he had two, the second one is being used as a bookcase). I will include pictures of the entire stand a bit lower down in this post which will help this mess of a paragraph make sense. About 6 months ago, in the middle of the night, my 250 liter tank cracked and almost flooded my house. After cleaning up the mess and almost giving up on the hobby I decided to focus on small tanks, 60 liters and less. Twin Aquariums I replaced the 100 liter tank that had previously sat on top of the aforementioned shelving unit with two 60 liter tanks, custom built perfectly to size. BEFORE: AFTER: The only tank with water in this picture is my 30 liter Cambarellus Shufeldtii and white Pomacea diffusa breeding tank. Here's a close up: The aquarium on the top left is currently a high tech tank while the one on the right is my Super Red Ancistrus breeding tank. Both tanks are the same dimensions (L45, W34, H40 cm). Up to date picture of both tanks: Recently I've built a new 30 liter tank which will be used as a bare bottom tank for raising batches of Super Red Ancistrus fry from wrigglers too 4 cm long fish (selling size). This tank contains a piece of driftwood with tons of Anubias plants glued on for extra grazing area. Sadly the wood is still floating. I'll post a journal on how I built it in the future. Here is how the entire racking system looks right now: In the near future I will be adding two more tanks and redoing the existing Cambarellus tank. More on that in a future post, I hope to update you all soon! Tank Journals: High Tech tank (update coming soon I promise): Ancistrus tank (this isn't a journal on this tank, I"ll link the journal when I make it):
  11. The best option if you want to use the tank, is to replace the entire cracked panel. Most likely that will cost the same as a new ten gallon tank though. I use old/cracked tanks as lids. Take them apart and keep the glass for new tank builds in the future or glass lids.
  12. If @Cory brings one to the market I'll have to get a friend from the states to ship me one! I live in a relatively hot climate. During Winter, temperature rarely drops below freezing. In rare cases that it does it's only really late at night and by a degree or two. My house is heated in the winter anyway so I under size heaters. That way it takes them longer to heat my tank period. In theory this will also extend their life as they have less on off cycles.
  13. I intend on buying a heater controller for every one of my tanks. The idea is that the controller shuts of the electricity to the socket when it detects a set temperature. Does anyone have any experience with these? Are they worth the cost?
  14. This is my fourth or fifth batch with this couple (I've bred other types of ancistrus in the past). The first batch was successful and the next three or four after got eaten by Planaria in a Planaria infested tank. They hitchhiked in on some plants and bred out of control because of over feeding. I've since torn down that tank and transferred this pair to their new tank (all plants have had planaria treatment). In the new tank it's easier to photograph the eggs as the cave is placed close to the glass.
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