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Found 8 results

  1. I am struggling with what to do with my 10g topfinn hob filter and cartridge. It has been a solid 3 months since changing my filter cartridge. It is dirty, and I mean dirty, and the filter has been overflowing (going over the small part by the outflow of the hob on the right of the picture which is highlighted down below. But I have a crushed coral bag in the hob and have no room to put a second cartridge in for a week or two so bacteria will get in there, so transferring bacteria is what I mean. So could I take out my crushed coral bag from hob? The crushed coral is for my snail, because my water is really soft and crushed coral has good stuff in it for snails I hear. But no room for a second cartridge. I know I know, I have a topfin “replacement” cartridge in there rn. Yes I was tricked when I was a newbie thinking that you can only use those for this Specific filter. Wrong! I know you can use filter pads that much much longer. But this one is starting to break down and all. So need to change. So main Q. Can I take crushed coral completely out of the tank for a week or two to put the replacement cartridge behind the old and present one in the hob. Will the water have water quality issues if I take crushed coral out of tank? Should I even be worrying about that. Could I put the crushed coral sitting loose in tank or hang it from something? Does my nerite snail need crushed all the time? Whoops that was like 5 questions lol. Also idk if my tank is getting clogged, because the water is overrunning a spot where water shouldn’t be. And I read on instructions a long time ago saying, if it overruns that part on the outlet you need to change your cartridge. I guess that’s right. I hope you get my point, kinda hard to explain. But I need to change the filter cartridge and need help with these Qs I have mentioned. TIA guys and I gladly will take any info I receive. 🙂 -Whitecloud09
  2. So the bottom of the tank I am refurbishing is drilled so the overflow and return come up through the bottom allowing for a more flush fit to the wall. It had an Aquoen Overflow kit with the large back piece. What can I do to be able to put this back together with out the large black piece. What is the name of the large black piece? I'm such a newb! There is a article by CO-OP that outlines using filter media, polyester yarn and plants to build your own back ground , which is what I wnat to do. I will paint the piping to blend into the planting. Then plant tall growing plants round them. Which I would like better then large black towers. So, question is. How can I get that done? Hopefully with out a ton of noise. OH, it is going to flow into a seamless Sump system underneath.
  3. The sound from the other room gradually beat past my elsewhere tuned ears. Hark! What waterfalls erupt nearby? What pleasant gushings trickleforth? Yeah... so... that tank I was water changing... yeah... it was pouring water all over my fishroom. And on what errand of distraction, you justly inquire, was the governor of said water change preoccupied? Posting a short video on the CARE Forum ... 🤦‍♂️ ...
  4. hi! i have a 240 gallon with 3 overflows and a sump. i want to add guppies and tetras to it howerver, they are constantly getting sucked into the sump. any tips to avoid this? sponge works, but my turtle may eat it so i cant use that
  5. Good Morning From Cold Cold Iowa! I have recently created a tank/sump system that has 3, 20 gallon tanks running to the same sump filter. One of the tanks is a shrimp tank with about 150 cherries in it. The problem I'm currently running into is the smallest shrimp getting washed down the overflow into the sump. Shrimp in the sump doesn't necessarily both me, but they've been getting trapped in the filter floss due to the flow. I can usually save them, however I would just like to remedy the issue. I've tried a couple of the overflow guards from Jhemco. This saves the larger shrimp which can't make it through the openings. Does anyone have any tips or products that they use? I feel like its a fine line between screening and clogging the overflow. Thanks in advance, Grant
  6. This is the process I used for drilling my next display tank. Its a 90 gallon tank with 1/4" inch thick glass. I'm drilling to install bulkheads to attach a canister filter too. Drilling a tank isn't as scary as you think if you've never done it before. You just have to go slow and have confidence, once you start there is no going back. It is more difficult and more likely to break on thinner glass, 1/8" or less. The tools I used were: Power drill. I think a two speed drill is best. Used on the lowest setting so you can't go too fast. Drill guide. I like this one with the suction cup. It held really well and has a port to attach a water line too. Squeeze bottle & aquarium airline. The bottle is from Dollar Tree, while not water tight, a thick wrapping of Teflon tape around the threads solves that. I found the Marina blue airline fit onto the nipple of the drill guide the easiest and onto the squeeze bottle. Some flat scrapes of wood and toolbox drawer liner Glass drill bit (obviously). I used a 35mm bit for a 3/4" bulkhead. I didn't want to do it outside with a hose because it was cold and snowing out at the time. I drilled it in my kitchen without making a mess at all. I used the flat scrapes of wood to wedge inside the tank as a brace when drilling. It helps contain everything once you get through the glass and maybe helps prevent some chip out. I used the liner against the glass to prevent the wood from slipping and wedged the piece between them to hold it tight. Go time. I wrapped a towel around the guide to contain the glass dust slurry. I had someone help by squeezing the bottle at a steady rate while I was drilling. I used the lowest speed and set the drill's clutch to the drill setting. Use both hands to hold the drill and keep it as straight as possible. Don't push too hard, especially on thinner glass, hold the drill tight and push down lightly, let the drill bit do the work. It takes time to get through thick glass, just go slow. You'll feel less resistance as you get closer to punching through, ease up on the pressure at that point until you're all the way through. Once you're through the hard part is over, except getting the plug of glass out the bit. Prying with a screwdriver in the slots gets it out. Removing the guide I found very little mess. Easy clean up. You can see the toolbox liner twisted and caught the bit as it punched through. I think that is actually beneficial, like a soft stop/landing for the process. I re-positioned the setup exactly the same and drilled a second hole, also successful.
  7. Hello, I have a 40 gallon breeder and I want to add a sump underneath. I'm trying to decide the best/ easiest/ and pros and cons of different methods. I don't really have the skill to drill the back panel but I can probably beg someone to do it for me or do it very carefully. I've also watched numerous videos of drilling tanks and plumbing and overflows you can buy and DIY instead of drilling. Any suggestions? tips? I've watched numerous videos on youtube and just cant decide what is best for me. I know that marine depot sells some, but those seem to all be geared towards reef tanks. This is a freshwater tank by the way.
  8. I am working on the design or my fish room plumbing system (more to come on the whole design) and I have a question on drilled aquarium overflows. I am looking to add overflows with the low profile strainer to 10g and 20g highs. My question concerns the desire to have the strainer assembly do double duty for larger water changes. Is there any reason to have the strainer assembly unglued to a bulkhead with a slip fitting on the inside so the assembly can be rotated to make larger water changes? I have not found an example of anyone doing this which leads me to believe it will not be practical. The first thought is the danger of the assembly always slipping out of position or worse, out. However I am tempted to try it. Has anyone else given this a try or know of a good reason not to do it? I always believe in getting the best expert advice but also in trying something new. Here is a very simple front and side elevation on a 20g tall of what I am talking about. The horizontal dashed line represents approximately 50% of the water line. Thanks in advance!
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