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About Me

Found 21 results

  1. My tapwater has a GH a 5.6 dh my tank water has a GH of 5.6 dh my tap water has a KH of 2.4 dh my tank water has a KH of 2.4 dh my tap has a ph of 8.2 my tank has a ph of 7.4 maybe a little lower why is this? I do have driftwood and catappa bark is that why? Also should I add a mineral supplement for my low KH?
  2. Well, after my tilapia nightmare a while back I have left my big tanks full of water and daphnia and some guppy grass to really get all that stuff balanced out. They are outside (tucson arizona), so it does save me a bill this winter for heating all that. From the water come the alge, from the alge come the daphnia, and from the daphnia come the guppies. Well, food chain wise. In plans for the spring i put a 3 something gallon tank on my office desk to breed out guppies and start the fish cycle over again. -- Today I saw little fry swimming around. While I have added guppies to water before and saw more appear, this is the first "up close" experience I have had with the tiniest of fry. I can see why grown guppies would see these fry guys as delicious marshmallows. Hopefully the fry that learn how to hide in some guppy grass will be the strong ones. Currently have a 3.something gallon tank on my desk. It has duckweed and waterlettuce of some variety on top. Guppy grass for low-mid covering, and hydroton (superheated clay pellets) as substrate. Mainly it was a "grab whats in the garden, add water and guppies, mix in daphnia daily" tank. So far the results are pretty good, with some screw ups along the way. Mainly the thing i overlooked coming into a smaller tank environment was that the ph 'style' changes. Outside I will get sometimes even as much as a 1.5 ph swing between dawn and sunset. But the PH in a smaller tank has a harder time 'swinging' back up (less acidic) I think. Some guppies started swimming funny, so I got the test strips out. I had gotten some neat $3 guppies from petsm--err, "not LFS" to make sure I wasn't going to add to potential tragedy by having paid shipping on them if they die. Well, they died. But they taught me that a good pinch of baking soda will help the tank in a few ways, and provide near instant relief for guppies getting "burnt" by people who let their PH get to 6 before they notice the guppies don't look right. I didn't want to just dump a clump of baking soda in there, as crazy ph swings are bad, but i did put in 2gsp (good sized pinches) of baking soda every 12-18 hours or so. This was actually probably more than i should have, but i noticed if i put it in slowly enough for the 'baking soda water' to form on one side, the fish all immediately swam toward it to be in it. So i think there is some truth to the idea of 'it helps'. I had to do this over the next few days, as the ph would come back up to 6 almost daily. Nothing else looked out of place on the test strip, only ph seemed to be stubborn. More daily doses of baking soda. the PH leveled out after about 5 days of this, stays at about 7.4 now, and has a "tiny swing" between morning and night. So, whew, water safety achieved. Id like it to be lower, around 8.2ish as this is better for a few reasons i have planned... I ordered from some place online Dwarf Baby Tears - to carpet the hydroton 2 Marimo Moss balls -- to be furniture on the carpet Wondershell -- because I believe in wonder Easy fry and small fish food, in a convenient squeeze bottle - just in case my fry are more hungry than I anticipate Easy green 'all in one' fertilizer - because I'm sure the plants will need a squirt or two, right now i detect no nitrates. 😕 I can at least go catch "the best" guppies and throw them in this tank to preserve their looks over time. The err, 'fancy breeder box' i guess it is. I put extra daphnia in the tank when i noticed fry. Just to minify their chances of getting eaten. I believe that the guppies do need to eat "some" of the fry as the natural process would allow, but I don't know enough about ethics from the perspective of a fish to know what I am talking about there really. Best I can do is say "they seem to do that" and allow it. I don't want them all to be gobbled up! With the carpeting plant and midrange plants and top floaters I hope that its a good combination for stability. Pictures attached of the tank as it is now. If its not a disaster I will upload it when it gets planted, and when it stabilizes.
  3. Hello everyone, I am very new to fish keeping and I recently cycled my 20 gallon tank about a week ago. on December 24th I added a few live plants and the next day my tests are showing 0.50 ammonia and 0.25 nitrite. I am wondering if me stirring up all the gravel and substrate in my tank caused the bacteria to go out of wack as my tank is now cloudy. If anyone has any ideas on what the cause could be that would be great!!
  4. Hi all, So I'd had a tank on my desk for roughly 21 months, and it contained Seiryu Stones as part of the hardscape. Now some may already know that Seiryu is known for its water altering property, and I figured to share a little bit of my experience so far. Moreover, I'm also interested in hearing everyone else's experience of playing with Seiryu! Thanks in advance for anyone willing to read through all this. Here is my tank specs along with water parameter RIGHT OUT OF tap. Tested with API Master Kit + Tetra Strips Standard US 5 gallon 7.4 pH Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate: all 0 ~300 ppm GH 100-150 ppm KH Inert gravel substrate with Lava Rock main hardscape, with a small handful of nano Seiryu Stone for accent. Planted with Myrio Green, Water Sprite, and Japan Clover So yeah, my water is literally liquid rock, but pH is not bad at all I think. This tank had been a solo betta tank. I did quite minimal water changes; if water test showed 0 for ammonia and nitrite, I just top it off unless nitrate went crazy. When my betta hit 2-year, it suddenly passed over weekend with no signs of sickness, so I did a water test to try find a root cause. A little confession, I had been neglecting pH test for a long time (shame on me). When I did test, I only used regular pH bottle (APT Master Kit), not the High pH one, this will be important. All parameters were normal, except for pH, which I read as 7.8 (deep blue per regular pH test). 7.8 wasn't too bad I thought, and boy was I wrong. Pull out the High pH bottle and the pH was a whooping 8.6! While I do believe in stable > perfect parameters, I'm pretty sure my betta did not come from Lake Tanganyika. Full test results from tank: 8.6 pH Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate: 0, 0, 20 ~300 ppm GH (could be more, strip can't test any higher) 100-150 ppm KH Since I have inert substrate, have pH 7.4 tap, and don't add anything in my water besides Easy Green, I narrowed my suspicion to my hardscape rocks leaching. Since Lava Rock is inert, it had to be the Seiryu Stones. Soaked one stone in distilled vinegar, yup it fizzed right away alright. Since Seiryu is a type of limestone, which is composed of mostly calcium carbonate, quick Google search revealed that calcium carbonate dissolving in water can reach pH equilibrium about mid-8, sometimes even around 9 or more. So that's my experience working with Seiryu Stone. Not saying it's "bad," just that I don't believe it was serving well for my case. I plan on getting some Ohko Stones instead (nice looking and also inert) and completely redo the tank. Maybe can trade-in the Seiryu in my LFS, who knows. How is everyone else's experience with Seiryu Stone?
  5. Is it normal to have 40ppm KH and 120ppm GH with pH around 6.8-7.2?? I have a concentrated liquid calcium bottle that I am planning to try if it is an effective way to increase the KH. I think my pH reading is wrong and so any suggestion on the the use of liquid calcium or on how to increase KH?
  6. Hi, I set up three nano tanks last Wednesday and everything seems to be going really well. My plants are all growing nicely.. lots of new leaves and dangly root sprouts. My two hitchhiker snails are about 300x bigger than when I found them. I have the tetra 6in1 dip tests for now. I decided to test my water every 3 days to see what's going on with it. I keep reading about the cycle.. I'm just not sure what's going on at the moment! I'm collecting my data and making a spreadsheet. Things got even more confusing when I downloaded the app and it gave me different readings. So now I have two spreadsheets.. one by eye, and one by the app. Which one should I trust? I know already I don't trust the KH on the app.. the colour my camera captured was nothing like I saw on the strip! Which also kept changing before my eyes. If anyone could look at my numbers and explain to me what's going on I'd be super grateful ☺️ also, if there's anything I could do to improve my setup. Also.. any idea how the app gave me a co2 reading? Thank you so much
  7. Is it normal for GH to drop by 1 degree each day in a relatively heavily planted tank...? I have Fluval Stratum Shrimp substrate but I thought it only would affect KH. Current stock is only one nerite snail but I’m hoping to get blue velvet shrimp and sparkling gourami (and potentially some pygmy corydoras depending on how stocking the former goes). I did one dose of Salty Shrimp GH/KH+ the day before yesterday and it boosted GH from 2 to 5 (KH dropped by 1). But today my GH is back down to 2... I’m more concerned about my GH since 2 is pretty low for snails/neos... My KH tends to drop slowly but I can keep it at around 6 or 7 with crushed coral. The crushed coral seems to only affect my pH and KH, unfortunately... I just ordered NilocG GH booster but wasn’t sure if needing to add that or Salty Shrimp on such a regular basis would create too much salt build up. My tap water GH is 4 and KH is 2. My tank has been running for a week and a half. It’s 10 gallons. Water parameters other than GH and KH have been stable: ph 7.4, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 5 (I reached 0 ammonia a couple days ago). I add two pinches of ground up fish food twice a day for ammonia. Thanks!
  8. I recently started up in the fish hobby and I have had my freshwater talk for about 6ish months. All my fish have been healthy as well as the tank. I noticed a week or so ago some of the fish were hanging out near the top. l didn't notice anything else wrong with them and water parameters were fine.. First thing that came to mind was low oxygen, so I did a partial water change and added an airstone. Then here recently I noticed the fins all all my fish appeared to be damaged. I later found it to be most likely fin rot. I have no medicine on hand and unfortunately, I think its too far gone. Anyway, if these other fish do end up dying or they survive and are well, is there anything I need to do to the tank to prepare it for new fish?
  9. I have an issue with my tendentious where shaking the nitrate bottle just isn't feasible for me, I will suffer all week with pain in my arm now from it. I actually went to test strips for a long time, now I'm finally out and down just to my master test kit, which I really want to use, but I can't seem to get myself to as it is self-inflicted pain. I'm really looking for suggestions here. I'm watching my nitrates a lot as I have a lot of newly established tanks, and I need to keep an eye on it to make sure I get the right water change schedule and volume going right. Any suggestions? Should I just give up and deal with test strips (I know they aren't as accurate, but I just don't know what else to do - and tbh, I've not noticed that much of a difference in them when I compare the liquid kit).
  10. I'm not one to chase numbers, and everything is going good in my tank. But, in what ways can I lower my Nitrates? They're consistently 40ppm on a weekly basis. API Master Test Kit is used. I have a 10g planted tank. Plants include: Anubias Nana Petite, Crypt Wendtii Green, Crypt Parva, Rosette Sword, Bacopa Caroliniana, Anubias Frazeri, Crypt Lutea, Banana Plant, Ammania Gracilias, Pogostemon Stellatus Octopus, Dwarf Aquarium Lily. Livestock: 5 Chili Rasboras, 7 Ember Tetras, 3 Kubotai Rasboras Inverts: 1 Nerite snail, 2 Blue Velvet Shrimp I do weekly water changes. I rinse out my AquaClear 30 every water change, I squeeze out the sponge in tank water, and change out the filter floss. My GE T8 4100k Florescent is on a 7 hour light cycle - on a timer.
  11. I've been watching my water parameters to try and do water changes when it's necessary not when I "feel" like I should. My question is, would cleaning the HOBs even when the water parameters look good, help keep the parameters stable longer?
  12. Hey everyone! I was cleaning a few of my tanks and doing water changes today, and decided to test parameters too (I do this about once a month). My longest running tank is a lovely planted 12 g, well established, a month shy of two years old. I was surprised to find the pH way down, 6.4, maybe lower, when normally it's closer to 7.4. This has happened a couple of times previously, with no negative results, and I add some crushed coral to bring the pH back up. But I was wondering why this happens. I feel like I know the answer, or should know, but wanted to ask here and see what others had to say on the subject, and also if it's something I need to concern myself with. Thanks in advance!
  13. I have a 55 gallon and a 10 gallon. On Sunday I did a water change to both tanks. I tested my tap water and gives me a reading of 8.4 hP. I used Fritz Complete to treat the tap water before adding the new water into the tanks. Maybe 30 mins after adding the water I tested the pH again and got a reading of 7.6 in both thanks. This morning I tested both tanks for pH level. The 10 gallon is the same (7.6) but the 55 gallon is at 6.8. I find it odd the drop so I did some more testing. Ammonia 0.25 ppm Nitrite 0 Nitrate 5.0 ppm Should I be worried about the hP dropping like that?
  14. I know nitrates are comprised of the left over waste from fish food and poop, so the question is is there a such a thing as good nitrates and bad nitrates when it comes to the makeup of the nitrate? I know adding something such as Flourish fertilizer and excel or easy green and liquid carbon are in this case "good" nitrates. Is there such a thing as a bad nitrate , which would be defined as something a plant cant consume?
  15. I've generally tried to do as much as I can in tap water to avoid the extra maintenance and difficulties that can come with trying to 'chase pH', and have had relative success despite liquid rock coming out of my tap (pH 8.7 after 24 hrs, GH and KH 20). I'd really like to venture out into some species that require softer, more acidic water though, especially for breeding. I've been experimenting in empty tanks and seem to be able to achieve my target values when first dosing, but can't keep those values stable. My approach so far has been: Create 0 TDS water with an RODI system. Add Alkaline buffer to reach target KH. Add Acid buffer to reach target pH. Add Equilibrium to reach target GH. For my initial test, I targeted pH of 7.0, GH and KH of 5-6. On day 0 (i.e. shortly after mixing), my tests showed that I'd hit each target within the accuracy of the test. I continued testing pH on subsequent days though and saw a steady rise for about a week before finally stabilizing at ~8.2. This is a new tank with literally nothing in it except RODI water with the above additives. Is gas exchange somehow causing that significant of a shift? Is there some latent interaction with the buffers, or some other cause I'm overlooking? In recommendations for how to edit my process so the resultant water has a more stable pH? I'm not as concerned with the exact number as long as it's stable and somewhere in the slightly acidic to neutral range (maybe 6.2-7.2).
  16. Inspired by the recent fish room tour video Cory posted, I've been thinking about the idea of the 'no water change,' tank, and how feasible it would be for my main, heavily planted display. The interesting thing is that my nitrates are consistently consumed by plants--the real reason I tend to do water changes (once every 3 weeks to a month) is because my pH starts to drop pretty precipitously--from 7.0 down to 6 and lower the longer I let it go. I dose Easy-Green and root tabs on the regular, so I have guessed that the pH drop is possibly due to the digestive action taking place by all the fish/plants, as well as the loss of dissolved minerals and solids over time as aformentioned plants/animals use those up. I suspect I could do a 'no water change,' approach to this tank if I could solve this particular issue. Any ideas I could experiment with?
  17. Hi everyone! Love the channel and have been following AC and Corey for the past year. I've tried googling this issue and it seems to be a strange one? My tap water has a pH over 8 (tested with API pH dropper test, but not with the higher pH tests), but my GH is 6 dGH (KH is 4 dKH). My googled research tells me my GH is too high and my pH is too low for a planted dwarf puffer tank. My setup: Tall 16 gallon, Aquaclear 20 hang-on-back filter, submersible heater, 2 air stones (1 small and 1 med) Fluval stratum with Fluval root tabs Plants: anubias nana, bacopa caroliniana, carpet tiny clovers Plants/hang-on-back filter/substrate migrated from a 5 gallon, the 5 gallon had been up and running for 7 months before migration. (added extra substrate, pogos, echinodorus parviflorus, buce thea red, ludwigia red hybrid) Added a new medium-size rock, a medium-size piece of driftwood and a smattering of almond catappa leaves. The plants have been continuously shrinking and melting despite having Fluval stratum with Fluval root tabs. My 5 gallon had an algae problem but the 16 gallon seems better so far. I keep my tank lights on for 8 hours per day, while also getting sunlight during the day from a west/south facing window about 10 ft away. The only plants that are thriving are my tiny clovers, I started them from seed while setting up the 16 gallon. My dwarf puffer died the day before I was going to transfer her to the new tank (RIP Booger), most likely due to parasites (she was doing fine for the first 5 months, but suddenly took a turn and got very skinny despite being fed until full once a day. I live in Canada so I couldn't get Paracleanse in time). My snails' shells are thin and sad and I had 4 out of 7 pumpkin shrimp die in a week. TLDR; my tank is out of whack and my dwarf puffer died and my plants are melting! Help! - Hillary
  18. I'm getting a shipment of leopoldi angelfish this week. Has anyone had them? How different are they from scalare and altum? Any tips or suggestions? I'm getting 6 so hopefully I will get a breeding pair.
  19. Anyone have luck breeding them in high ph water mine comes out of the tap around 7.6 I want to do sand but if I have to do stratum to help buffer the water I will?
  20. Seized


    Tannins are such a great part of aquariums in my opinion. Its almost like having aquarium salt in your tank but a more passive approach to fish meds. Tannins have anitfungal and antibacterial properties and not to mention if you use rooibos tea in your tanks you can get lots of antioxidants for your fish. The only downside is if your not doing blackwater tanks it may be annoying to have a orangey yellow hue to your water but if you are careful with how much you add its just fine. Another alternative is using API melafix. Everyone has there opinions about if melafix is useful or not. But i tend to think it has great benefits to tanks regardless. Let me know what your thoughts are on this topic and please let me know if i missed anything.
  21. Hello everyone, Does anyone know about discus diseases / parasites? I currently have a pair of 5 inch male discus in my 75 gal. Recently, they have been lethargic, dark in color, and a depleted appetite. Our water is hard where we live (80 GH) so I begun to use distilled water. I am now able to get the hardness down to 60. This helped only momentarily. I talked to a local aquarium sale clerk and she told me to use a UV light for parasites. Has anyone had any luck with this? She said that it kills all parasite. If my fish is already sick, is the UV unaffective? The same problem is believed to have killed 2 of my females. Thanks for any insight!
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