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Jungle Fan

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Everything posted by Jungle Fan

  1. I'd get some Apistogramma borellii 'Opal', or some Apistogramma macmasteri.
  2. Velkommen til forumet, Johannes! I think you'll like it here.
  3. Just a photographer getting artsy when the Denver Downtown Aquarium was still known as OceanJourney and I used to be a founding member.I've always loved playing with reflections.
  4. From several years ago in my portfolio: 'Bee over Rocky Mountain Bee Plant' Cleome serrulata, especially for our beekeeper.🙂
  5. Trim off the bad leaves, they are a waste of the plants energy and nutrients, then start the AIO. With plants there is no set time frame it can be weeks, months; sometimes they just need time to recover before they get new growth. As long as they get no worse there is always hope but you'll notice when they get better. PS: Just read your original comment again and in regards to adding ferts and getting algae, if you are overdosing past the recommended dosage for your tank, yes you might get algae, however if you aren't dosing the plants can die of malnutrition and algae will gladly take all the nutrients your plants aren't using and you end up with algae. One way or another nitrate will appear in the water when you keep fish, snails, shrimp, it is the nitrogen cycle end product of fish waste which begins as ammonia/ammonium, dependent on pH level, and if plants aren't using the end product, either because there are no plants, or the plants aren't doing well and unable to because they are missing other nutrients then algae happily will. If you are taking care of your plants, your filter, and your substrate than they all work together to improve water quality and your plants will out compete algae every time.
  6. A lone hatchet fish will act unusual and more aggressive because it is likely under stress, that behavior should return to normal once numbers increase; right now as a lone fish it likely sees itself as "fins to the glass" in need to be constantly alert, there is security in numbers.
  7. @Solidus1833 Here's an article that might clear things up a bit: https://fishtankmaster.com/cardinal-tetra-vs-neon-tetra/ and now I'm going to throw a third colorful Neon in the mix the Green Neon: https://www.aquariumsource.com/green-neon-tetra/
  8. With the Acaras I would skip the shrimp for sure, also it might be better to stick with epiphyte plants like the Java fern, Anubias, Bolbitis, Bucephalandra, floating plants, and more moss attached to wood because they love to dig.
  9. I like @Streetwise's suggestions, with the addition of one, or two more pieces of wood you could also create some caves for dwarf cichlids like Rams, or Apistogrammas if you should so desire. I would add some Anubias nana petite to some of the rocks, or some Bucephalandras, and a few more Cryptocoryne, or some Helanthium quadricostatus with your current Cryptocoryne wendtii, and maybe a bit more Brazilian Pennywort in the right corner. You made some very good choices, and once it all grows in you will have a very nice tank. With your substrate and fertilization as stated you could even grow a carpet with plants like Staurogyne repens in the foreground if you wanted. With the Christmas moss, here's a hint: shrimp are very good at keeping it clean, and algae free; I've got a mix of Amanos and Blue Velvets in my tank for that purpose, however that would eliminate the Apistos from the choice of fish, because they would in turn literally eliminate the shrimp. I'm curious to see how it will fill in but it is off to a great start. Very nice!
  10. Any time a leaf isn't visibly doing well, when it's yellow, brown, translucent, has holes, or is overly infested with algae it is generally best to cut it off and give the plant the opportunity to focus on new growth than to waste energy and nutrients on a leaf that won't recover. Java fern is very resilient, and given the proper nutrients and lighting it will recover.
  11. @Melinda PI've been keeping Cardinal Tetras since 1968 and in all my years they've been hardier, and had better longevity than Neon Tetras. These days I buy mine from my LFS who supports Project Piaba and their bid to keep the Amazon river aquarium fisheries and rainforest intact. All the Cardinals he sells are wild caught and have been hardier than the batches of farm raised fish I had bought from some suppliers in the past. He had some shipments recently that had suffered from FEDEX delays as did everybody else, and tropical fishes don't do well in the cold and with long delays, but after initial losses and keeping them quarantined for a week, or two he even got them to recover and to new homes. On average I've been able to keep my Cardinals for at least three + years, and from the current batch of 35 I bought last July I have lost 0.
  12. A few rocks, or some strategically placed driftwood right in front of the pearl weed can put a kink in the rampage and persuade the brat to frolic elsewhere. PS: I've got a pleco who made his peace with some Lobelia cardinalis in that way after it had seemed to be doomed to float in perpetuity.
  13. I've used Easy Green, and NilocG Thrive S, not a big fan of Flourish, although their root tabs, and potassium are ok. and do come in handy every once in a while.
  14. You can use some of the old substrate but what I would definitely re-use is the filter and filter material from your current tank. That will help get the new tank established much quicker. With substrate I tend to not use as much of the old if it is one that had nutrients added like Fluval Stratum, ADA Amazonia, laterite, or Seachem Flourite because they get exhausted over time in a heavily planted tank, but even even a little bit helps speed up to get your beneficial bacteria filter in your substrate established.
  15. Two thumbs up for @MJV Aquaticsrecommendation on the Aquaclear HOB. When it comes to HOB those are the way to go. Their HOBs can be easily customized, whether you just want sponge, or sponge and bio, or sponge, bio and chem. The advantage over just regular sponge filters is that with the HOB you can have two different types of sponge, coarse, and fine, aside from adding bio, or chem, or both.
  16. I've seen Green Neon Tetras Paracheirodon simulans school with Cardinal Tetras Paracheirodon axelrodi, especially when the Cardinals were small. Bolivian Rams work great with them.
  17. Green Leaf Aquariums' Dual Stage CO2 regulator from Florida is in my opinion the best commercial regulator also with the best warranty here in the U.S. Next best is the CO2 Art which is a German company. Milwaukee I will not recommend, it is a single stage and quality was abominable when I had one many years ago, cost me some of my Cobra guppies at the time when it did an end of tank dump. Aqua Tek I haven't even heard about, so I can't say anything about it one way, or the other.
  18. Looks more like Hygrophila polysperma to me.
  19. Your Bolivian Rams might not be eating as much as they should with the current selection. Bolivian Rams Mikrogeophagus altispinosa are as the Latin name Mikrogeophagus says 'small earth eaters', meaning they prefer sinking pellets they can pick up off the bottom. I feed mine either the Hikari sinking pellets, or the Nutra-Fin 1mm sinking pellets, mine also like to pick at the Repashy Igarapo Explorer food. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/collections/fish-food I hope this helps.
  20. Some info of what it is and how to get rid of it, or at least how to control it, since its spores are endemic to the air all around the globe. https://tetrauni.com/filamentous-algae/
  21. I've seen 40 gallon tanks used for breeding pairs of Discus as the bare minimum. I don't think at that point I'd keep them with a Gold Nugget Pleco. Those two look like some of the wild caught Discus I kept years ago. Beautiful fish! Here's an article that might give you a bit more insight, and also has some informative links: https://fluffyplanet.com/the-best-size-of-aquarium-for-discus-fish/
  22. Does it have a root, a rhizome, or a bulb? From the picture it's hard to tell. Even though you've got it glued to the lava rock it's neither an Anubias, nor a Bucephalandra, nor is it Java fern, or Bolbitis which pretty much exhausts the list of available aquatic epiphytes, and rheophytes with rhizomes. It could be a very small Aponogeton if it has a bulb and not a root, or a rhizome and it could be doing better this way than being planted in sand. If it has a root and is a sword, or Chain Broadleaf sword then there must have been some other factors involved to make it falter because your soil is the right thing to use, and your root tabs are as well, although one every two inches is a bit overkill one every four, to six inches is usually sufficient. If it is a sword and was planted in the sand then that could account for it as well since most plants, especially swords tend to not do well in sand. If none of that's the case as well then I'm out of answers for you, and some mystery factor must be in play.
  23. @CorydorasEthan I am ORD once again too or I would have clicked like on your post. My only thought on the bristlenosed plecos is that there are different varieties, and while I have had three different versions they all acted the same way in regards to algae. The current one is almost seven inches in size and about 15 years old, my wife calls him fish grandpa. Those corys in my tanks that actually touched brown algae were Corydoras melanistius and Green Corydoras, back then I was into Japanese style aquascapes and left sand in the foreground with a few accent pebbles. Before I added them I still had a bit of brown algae from the tank getting its balance clearly visible, two days later it was gone.
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