Jungle Fan

@Hobbit why work for a treat when a blink blink, and shmoozola will get you the treat anyway? They know what they're doing, trust me.😄

@CorydorasEthan you and I agree on the Nerites but on the 'cleaner fish; we disagree because otos don't really compete with barbs, danios, and sharks, they primarily look for plant food like spirulina, and they will clean leaves of algae. I've kept them successfully in tanks with those fish in the past. And while corys would not be my first choice as an algae prevention crew, I had corys in the past in new tanks, right after cycling was complete, and they used to love going after diatom algae, aka brown algae, however in general I do agree with your assessment on corys, and except for the larger varieties like Green Corys you are right in that I'm not sure they would do really well in this particular community. In regards to bristlenosed plecos, I know they are generally praised for algae eating but in my experience they are much better at eating sword plants and waiting for spirulina wafers, blanched lettuce, and cucumber slices while being perfectly happy to watch algae grow. It's been many years now that they busted their own myth for me. Besides my 75 gallon I have another blackwater tank with just a fairly large bristlenose, and a clown peckoltia those two have been buddies for years and I keep them because I like their looks but definitely not for their algae eating prowess, that tank in that regard depends solely on the human algae prevention crew of the home. The best algae prevention is weekly maintenance and water changes in my opinion, any cleaning crew is only an additional detail, and in this hobby even the slightest tiny bit helps, but to rely on it exclusively is a recipe for pre-programmed disappointment.

@DSheltonORD again otherwise I would have clicked like.

I would find a new home for the ramshorn, and the assassin snails and replace that crew with Nerite snails, especially military helmet nails which are a variety of Nerites if you can find them, since they even go after GSA which is what likes to settle on the glass. By the way scraping once a week makes it much less hard, and it actually takes less time than monthly. As to crabs and crawfish I'm sure you could find some but your problem could easily turn into the opposite of keeping your inverts from eating your fish. I'd go with the Nerites, some otocinclus, and some corydoras, combined with the weekly water changes and maintenance it should help keep algae at bay. Hope this helps.

As @Corysaid the plants look healthy, and the black stuff isn't a problem. As to should one plant them, that's how they normally occur in nature, it's where they anchor their roots, and part of their nutrients are absorbed from inside the substrate. Adding substrate would also give you the option to add other plants like cryptocoryne, swords, and all kinds of stem plants, plus it gives your tank more surface area to be colonized by beneficial bacteria to aid in removal of waste, it would be a win/win.

So I've used all of the methods you mentioned, CO2 ceramic diifuser, Aquario Neo diffuser, in tank reactor with pump/power head, inline reactor with bio balls, inline atomizer/diffuser, and in tank atomizer. I've also used one you didn't mention which was the first method to diffuse CO2 over time under water in tank, the glass bell that you manually filled with CO2 from a cylinder via a hose once, or twice a week as it disappeared and was replaced by water. We used to use a cork float to show how much CO2 had decreased in the bell. I've also seen DIY versions of it made from a variety of plastic bottles. I didn't like the in tank reactor because it was unsightly and took up space, and if you used the one with the pump added another device to be plugged in, The inline reactor was huge and took up space in the stand under the tank and complicated hose cleaning, the same went in regards to cleaning for the inline atomizer/diffuser because of its ceramic membrane that had to be soaked in bleach every so often to keep it viable and because you now had three sections of hose where you originally only had two. The bell was easy but not very efficient for larger tanks, and I saw much better growth with all other methods. I also remember hearing Tom Barr, and some other speakers at the Aquatic Gardeners Association over the years talking about the benefits of fine mist CO2 bubbles, over strictly water dissolved CO2. I have never seen their studies in that regard, but their findings seemed to coincide with what I've seen in regards to growth. I don't have an aversion to seeing micro bubbles in my tank, whether it is from CO2, or pearling. If I ran a much larger tank than my current 75 gallon I might consider using a reactor again, or I might just use multiple diffusers. What I'm currently using is the large Aquario Neo diffuser from Aquarium Co-Op, and the result has made me, and my plants very happy. It produces the finest mist of bubbles I have ever seen a CO2 diffuser produce, and I have a mid sized cardboard box full of different models from ADA, to run of the mill knock offs from an assembly of the finest Asian and European countries to prove it. When I first received the Neo from Aquarium Co-Op its size had me somewhat concerned that maybe this wasn't a large but I was assured by customer service that it was, and to give it a try as she was using the same for her 100 gallon tank. I'm glad I got it! It works great, and is easy to take care off. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/collections/plant-supplies/products/aquario-neo-co2-diffuser Here are two shots of my 75 gallon Amazon inspired tank: PS: One of the things I remember that was mentioned about the benefits of micro bubbles over strictly water dissolved CO2 also was the fluctuation of CO2 level dissolved in water depending on water temperature, as it decreases with increasing water temperature, just like oxygen which can cause fluctuations.

Just an off question what is the white looking powder on the soil? Oh, and one other question how many root tabs had you placed around the plant in the substrate?

Might be because of something they add to Flourish that requires it so the nutrients aren't consumed by bacteria. I don't refrigerate mine, nor has it ever been an issue, my plants don't seem to mind.

@d6veteranjust an old trick that works on all kinds of tubing from air, CO2, to filter tubing. Another one in regards to tubing and pipes is that to remove tubes from PVC, glass, or stainless steel pipes you first push the tube up just a tiny bit, it loosens it, you'll feel a slight pop, and you can then pull them off easily. I know it's counter-intuitive but it works. PS: ORD otherwise I would've clicked Thanks.

@HobbitI think it's your cat's way of saying: "Hey, I've done that for you the last few weeks, I've humored you, now I'm bored with it. Pet me! Love on me! We're still friends." Cats love new games, new toys, and sooner or later ignore things they get bored with, because your cat doesn't want to the trick anymore doesn't mean she doesn't remember how to do it, she's just bored with the routine. Cats will stick to daily routines they prefer religiously, things they do just to please us they'll do for a while to humor us, then ignore them, and shmooze you while they do it. At least that's been my experience, and I've had the company of cats even longer than I've kept fish. It's part of their character, and I wouldn't have them any other way.

I don't run mine unless there is a problem because it messes with the chelation of the liquid iron fertilizer I use and makes it unusable for the plants. So if I don't have to, I don't run it. The second reason is that it is an internal UV sterilizer, huge, bulky,and unsightly and I don't want to see that in my tank if I don't have to. I do 50% weekly water changes.

Running hot water over it for a short time will usually do the trick to soften tubing.

@quirkylemon103 as @Daniel said ask your doctor for an allergy skin test for bee venom allergy if you are concerned. Irritation, and local pain after a bee sting are a normal reaction; reactions that may include hives, itching, difficulty breathing, low blood pressure and in a few cases, anaphylactic shock are not, and defined as allergic reactions, and can be fatal. So if you have experienced any of these symptoms before when stung by a bee, or in relation to other insect bites definitely make sure to ask your doctor for the test since allergies can worsen with re-occurring events. "According to the 'Journal of Asthma and Allergy', approximately 5 to 7.5 percent of people will experience a severe allergic reaction to insect stings in their lifetimes. In beekeepers, this risk rises to 32 percent." from Medical News Today. So much for the medical statistics trivia for the day.

Thanks for posting this @KBOzzie59this will make for an easy link for anyone with a dechlorination question.

LOL! Cheese und Krackers! Ahhhnold aside, I'd take cyst any day over nodes. Thanks @Kirstenthat sounds like a workable approach, I really get frustrated reading through these fish health tomes, going into every detail of the pathology, and then concluding without treatment recommendation. At least in nursing there were very few diseases without recourse.

I found something in "The Manual of Fish Health" by Dr. Chris Andrews, Adrian Exell & Dr. Neville Carrington fully revised and updated edition of 2010 that sort of looks somewhat like it but I hope I'm wrong. It calls it 'Nodular diseases' caused by microsporidian and myxosporidian parasites such as Ichthyosporidium, Nosema, Myxobolus and Henneguya, and Dermocystidium. It states that most low level infestations go unnoticed by the aquarist but those of the skin, or fins are much more obvious. Also states that there are no reliable treatments, to maintain the fish in isolation and if their condition deteriorates they once again advocate euthanasia and to disinfect tanks and all equipment. Now this is just the closest thing I could find, and I sure hope I'm wrong. Maybe someone else on the forum will know better than I. Sometimes I wonder why I bought all these books on 'fish health' seems all they ever do is say here this is what it might be, now euthanize your pet. Very few times have they ever produced a workable treatment and solution for me. I would quarantine Melvin, raise the temperature to around 80 degrees since that's when Ich, another known parasitite usually hatches, and try adding Maracyn parasite treatment, and adding some salt. I hate that this happened he is such a beautiful fish. I really hope I'm wrong @Sal

@PlaneFishGuySounds like you're doing the right thing, as long as you are watching the water parameters and keeping an eye out for algae. You should post some pictures of your tank.

Bubu, our Tuxedo cat, fishowner owner, and part time feline blanket burritto when it's snowing outside as it is right now. The real owner of the feline big screen TV I call my 75 gallon tank, and the main viewer of it from the perch of his cat tree.

In regards to absorption time that's a question that really no one can answer for you, not knowing how many plants of what type you have, what type of light, how long a photoperiod you have set, and if you are adding CO2, or not and even then they would be guess-timating. If you really want to know it is best to get some water test kits and check for the presence of each nutrient separately over time. I haven't been that ambitious, or industrious since I finished my last microbiology research project in college a good long while ago. To answer your question in regards to dosing after a water change, yes that is the general method. I do weekly 50% water changes on my tank and my weekly dosing regimen begins new the day I do a water change. I follow the instructions on my fertilizer so I'm generally done dosing a day, or two before the next water change. If you don't have other issues with high ammonia levels, and follow the instructions on the Easy Green bottle in regards to dosing for your size of tank then your ammonia should not spike. The root tabs are definitely the way to go for root feeders like Amazon swords, and cryptocoryne. Here's a picture of my tank, in light of full disclosure I'm also using CO2 fertilization:

Nicely done! Especially considering what the going rate for mounting arms are these days. Mounting arms for the Kessil lights are $79 a pop, and even the goosenecks I use are still $35 each. A very elegant, and very affordable solution, very nice. I'll really have to get a 3D printer seeing all the different ways it can be used.

ORD once again otherwise I would have clicked like on @Schwack's recommendation.

Are you sure your tap water has 0 chlorine/chloramine? Have you checked with your local water district in regards to what they might add to the water when they process it? If your water really has no chlorine/chloramine added then yes, you don't need dechlorinator, i.e. Seachem Prime and just the Seachem Stability, or whatever product you are using for added beneficial bacteria is fine. However keep in mind that levels added by the water district can differ with weather, season, and temperatures, hotter temperatures require higher dosages, water that was 0 in the winter might have much higher levels in the hotter months of summer, always best to check, and it only takes a phone call. if you add any beneficial bacteria without dechlorinator and your water actually does contain chlorine you're not only wasting money by adding bacteria because you are killing them with the chlorine at the same time, you are also taking a chance of having your fish and snails damaged. I've made it a habit of getting my water districts annual water quality report in which they also list any methods, or additives they use to process our drinking water. I also test my tap water sporadically for phosphates and TDS at least every two months because our water district here keeps switching back and forth between six wells two of which have known phosphate problems. Here's a little article in regards to dechlorination: https://guppy-fish.com/need-aquarium-dechlorinator/ I hope this helps.

Forgot to mention that it definitely was not the old original, because it looked, and crumbled exactly as the new ones in Cory's video.

For your Corys you could take gravel and leave a stretch of sand as @Kirstenrecommended in the front for them to sift through if you want, just be aware that plants don't tend to do as well in sand in my experience. Make sure not to plant Java fern and Anubias in the substrate, or they will rot. You can attach them with gel type super glue to rocks, or wood and they will grow, and spread over time. Another plant that is like these two and can also be attached to rock, or wood is Bucephalandra. You can get different kinds of sword plants as well like Red Flame, or Ocelot Green, or Ocelot Red to give it some variety. You could also use a plant called Helanthium quadricostatus as either a mid-, or foreground plant, it is also known as Broadleaf Chain Sword, or Bolivian Chain Sword, it also requires root tabs and was once considered an actual sword plant but has since been reclassified into its own grouping. Cryptocoryne are much like the swords in respect to being root feeders and they would also do well in your tank providing you supply them with root tabs as well. With crypts it helps to remove all their leaves just above the rosette when you first get them and plant them that way so they don't go through what is called crypt melt first where the old emersed grown leaves die off and new submerse leaves have to be formed. Cutting off the leaves at that point help skip the die off phase and get the plant not to waste nutrients and energy on dying tissue. I also once kept a gravel tank with primarily Aponogeton, which are a family of bulb plants that were sold as just the bulb, and they did extremely well, the only issue with them was that sometimes their leaves die off and the bulb can go dormant for a while, only to make a reappearance months later. In the meantime while you suction the mulm it can happen you accidentally suck a bulb into the bell of the gravel vac and get stuck so you have to disassemble it and dislodge the bulb first before you can continue. I hope this helps and gives you some more ideas for plants and an easy set up.