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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. Found this.... Random google searching "aquarium heater clicking" and this seems to indicate a plausible reason for what I'm experiencing. Unfortunately the post has images which are no longer available to view. Also, clearly, this is for a traditional tube style heater, which isn't the same as the ACO version.
  2. Guess who has yet another cut on their finger that happened day of maintenance.... 😞 Anyways, maintenance one handed is done. I didn't pull wood or anything like that, but I did replant the stems again ambidextrously so that's fun. One of those muscles I need to exercise more. The S. Repens is growing in really well. The new growth looks pretty awesome and a few of those floating stems had roots popping, which isn't the norm for me. I'll grab photos eventually, but it's one of those things I sit and the tank and just check on pretty regularly. The plants are doing the best they've been doing for me in a really, really long time.... which is awesome. The other thing that stood out to me is how some corydoras are really slow growing and others are very big. The fry are growing at quite a few different rates and that's an interesting dillema for me. Is it because the bigger ones are female? Is it because I'm not feeding enough or that the "runts" are getting out competed? I do have a new plant on the way, one I have failed at far too many times, and so I am hoping it does a bit better this time. I am still eyeballing the hygro pinnatifida and hoping that takes off as well. My itching lighting finger is getting as such that I just feel like I need to have the light one for longer or more intense and I'm not sure which knob to adjust. Moss is growing in well, the top is completely full again and the bottom region is about 1/2 way there. The corydoras were sleeping on moss rock, which was fun to see. They really are doing well and enjoying their tank..... I can't ask for more than that. Test results tomorrow.
  3. My water is generally very, very hard water with mid-low KH. Sometimes KH was higher for me and stable (100+) and now it's about 40 out of the tap. That being said, I read the title as "can plant struggle in..." I wanted to preface my response with an example in this thread specifically talking about iron deficiencies. I think plants very much can struggle in hard water just like they can struggle in soft water and in some tanks where an experienced hobbyist is doing something like EI dosing. The most common issues you're going to run into is trying to find out what minerals are in the water and what aren't. That means there are test kits where you want to find out specific key nutrients plants commonly are missing and be able to thoroughly analyze your water. Once you have that, then you can progress and diagnose issues.
  4. 1. What is the largest tank you've ever cared for? 2. What is the most amount of tanks you've kept? Why? 3. What is the next plant you wish to have in your tank? 4. What is the biggest challenge you face with maintenance? 5. How often do you test your tank? 6. Do you have aquarium salt on hand and what was the last time you used it? 7. Have you ever kept a tank with a planted substrate, what did you like or dislike? 8. What is your favorite thingamajig that you have for your tank? (something you use) 9. What is your favorite color and do you have any fish in that color? 10. Choose 2: Seiryu stone, Ohko stone, Red Lava Rock, Mopani wood, Manzanita wood.
  5. Modded mine with a spraybar, it runs 24/7.
  6. Try Zero water instead. It's a bit better filter where the brita is basically just carbon for a few seconds. There are 5G versions which work well for smaller tanks. The faucet based models will never do enough to actually work long term. You'd want to use one of the undersink filters available at pretty much any hardware store. If you also with you can get "whole home" versions. 3-5 stage is the norm. Yes you can use the "basic filters" but you're much better off spending the same amount or slightly higher towards something slightly longer term for the hobby if that is a concern. Maybe it's a good time to test the tap and see what is going on. You might be smelling nitrates or ammonia.
  7. Follow the directions on the box. Whatever they are. Yes. Any dying organics in the water, plant or algae would. Food as well.
  8. If I had space, I would. Right now I don't. The plan one day is to have a ricefish tub and an herb garden for cooking. It's a bit too cold and dark in the house so I need a dedicated space.
  9. It reminds me of someone tapping the wall or water dripping all night very strange to hear it every time the heater is running and I have 2 other tanks that's are extremely quiet by comparison.
  10. This thing kept me up pretty much all night. For reference it's set at 73. Air temp last night was 44. Temp inside the house is 58-60 normally. It's a 100w heater in a 10G tank. Lid on and the tank is on a rubber mat. Cleaning the house and then I'll check it for air again when I do maintenance on the tanks today. I did use the kasa timer to turn it off and the clicking slowed and then eventually stopped.
  11. There is a link in my signature. Post there for pretty much any question or issue with those ones or feel free to shoot me a message. The pump housing has little indications. You push one in, then the clip releases and you can easily slide it off.
  12. I added some to my community tank, the platies will very likely go after them. I don't know about the gourami. I'd recommend a shrimp only tank and add culls to the community tank to see if they do ok.
  13. Interesting. Interesting, hm... You're talking AC20 vs. a Tidal 35 or? I would pretty much limit the tidal series to the 55 or larger. AC I think they are all pretty similar except the 110 is a very, very different beast in some respects. Honestly. NONE of them are my favorite. I like the pump, mounting of the pump on the tidals. I like the flow adjustment on the tidal and I like the output path on the tidal. I don't like pretty much anything else about the tidal. I don't like ACs pretty much at all apart from.... it's a rectangle for media and the sponge is good. I don't like the aqueon's size because it's hard to mod. I don't like the way that the pump is mounted, but I like everything else about it. Even the little blinking LED indicator is pretty snazzy. Marineland is probably the closest to "good enough" for me and I do like their spa style filters with the circular cartridges. Tetra I don't like. top fin nope. Fluval NOPE. No filter out of the box, I actually think is good enough. This goes to just about every filter from anyone. Sponges, canisters, etc. I think almost everything has it's quirks and it's issues. Price aside, replacing media aside. I would like to try out the fluval x07 series, the Tidal 110, and the marineland internal.
  14. Yeah I feel you. I had a tank humming, then one small thing and the moss just vanished on me. Took me a long time to feel confident again with the moss.
  15. Nothing here seems too crazy. Plants are stressed, explains the phosphate changes. Algae alone could raise it that much. Mine goes up to 3 ppm in a week on a bad day, small tank, bigger jumps. Temp in your case seems ok as well (listed at 74 in an earlier post) As long at the PH doesn't get too high, you should be able to hold off PH as a stress factor. Flow could be a factor, but that's something you'd have to determine on the visual side on your end if you see fish struggling at all against the output of the filter. Very interesting that time+flow or meds made that stuff go away. I do wonder what it was. 🤔 In the case of fin issues, even tears and recovery without rotting issues, my suggestion would be to use aquarium salt. 1/3 or 1/2 cup per 10G is the usual ranges I fall within. For a fin rot situation I would lean towards 1/2 cup and for a recovery mode use I would stick to 1/3 cup. It's difficult to pin point, but there seems to be a few things at play here, not just one. Hopefully with more observation things clarify themselves. Have you noticed any of the females with tail damage struggling to get food? When I had fin rot in my tank it was a female who was picked on and I had to target feed her as well as meds to get things healed up. Just something to note.
  16. @KittenFishMomttake stock of everything, use AQ advisor and all that if it helps and makes it easy. Are all of your tanks functional with the same KH/GH or do you need something specific for anything in particular? Secondly, in terms oof the shrimp and your dosing on GH/KH, what is the ratio on that? What I mean is.... Does using that product make the KH/GH equal or is the GH raised more easily? I would lean towards wanting GH to be 1.5-3x your KH.
  17. I would start here.... You'd want to keep in mind for basically everything, the relationship between KH and PH, keeping those where you wish, and then setting GH where it makes sense. Say you raise KH and PH goes too high, you can use something like Seachem Acid buffer to drop PH. It's a real chemistry mess trying to buffer things and do it consistently, so that's why I'd highly recommend starting with those MST videos. He's got a good method and makes it easy to understand as long as you understand how KH, GH, and PH interact. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/ph-gh-kh
  18. Potentially iron deficiency? Very beautiful tank and seeing it go from start to OH MY GOODNESS in 3 shots was a pretty amazing reveal.
  19. GH/KH+ = Neo shrimp KH+ = Taiwan Bee or Caridina shrimp Equilibrium = generic fish use to raise GH Alkalinity buffer (seachem) = raise KH Crushed Coral = raise KH
  20. Looks really beautiful. I think these are what @Zenzo picked up from Ocean Aquarium? Not sure how his are doing, but it's a beautiful fish. Please keep struggling to take photos! How goes your corydoras adventures?
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