Jump to content
Watch our video on the rules of this forum.

nabokovfan87

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    11,092

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    69

  • Feedback

    100%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    If you can please feel free to show off the tank. A. Open area (at least one or two) B. Cover / shaded areas C. Plants for them to hide in and feel hidden help. Stems, grasses, etc. all do well because the corydoras feel hidden. You know.... hidden. Here is the video I'd recommend watching. I have zero issues supporting AH. They do a job that a lot of people don't really have access to (if you don't have a local store, its a place to get some fish for an affordable price!) They did just move to a new facility, larger, and the hope being (from me) that they can have some more rare fish, special orders, and be able to get in some more dedicated facilities in case some fish come in pretty bad requiring treatment. It's all down to method, down to how they bring in fish to treat everything. I didn't have any issues with the fish I brought in from AH, but that's a small sample size. Compared to the tanks at the big box store, it's a massive upgrade.... and I mean that as to express how depressing it is to go to the big box store close to the house. I always wish I could fix their issues. For basically anything, I would recommend a minimum of 14 days QT. Better is to double that if you can. Sometimes it takes time for illness to show up. Stress of shipping and then acclimating can take weeks for some parameters. You also don't know where these fish were before your care.
  2. nabokovfan87
    I just got this in from ACO. BEAUTIFUL plant. I think this one might be the first one I've gotten that is fully converted. In all of my attempts with Scarlet Temple I am extremely excited based on what I see. Question though. These little "tufts" they look like flowers. I am assuming this is from the above water growth flowering? Was this flowering under water? I've never seen it and was curious about what I was looking at.
  3. nabokovfan87
    In addition to this, I just leave the ceramic media at the top of the sponge filter.
  4. nabokovfan87
    Dang. That's really unfortunate. Unfortunately it does happen. I have seen tanks recover from it if you catch it in time, but it's a very thin margin. Ironically, the video before this one was called "give it more gas" Maybe there is some advice in here to help you out.
  5. nabokovfan87
    reminds me of this. But yours was on the lid, not on the sand. Definitely weird. I've had some white mold type stuff on the HoBs before and it wasn't slimy. Hard water mixed with what looks like fungus / mold. Just annoying more than anything, but wasn't slimy like that. I would "treat the tank" so to speak with salt, ich-X and with kanaplex. I know there are plants in there, but short term some plants can be fine with the salt. This photo.... It looks like brown diatoms to me on the left / right leaf. The middle leaf it looks like green dust algae. The coloration / opalescence might just be the LED shimmer off the leaf. If it grows, it might be BGA.
  6. nabokovfan87
    So in terms of sharpness, that rock has rounded edges. I'd say you're fine with that rock. You can tuck the "rough side" to the corner of the tank or use sandpaper to make it butter smooth if you prefer. Some of the photos you posted show curling on the edge of the fin. IDK if you see that now, but early on maybe it was a sign of something? This photo. In terms of treatment, you've done salt a few times. You've done one round of kanaplex. Anything else I'm missing? Trying to suggest a path forward, but also trying to understand what has been done in detail a bit. Interesting. For reference, which light? How far was it from the surface (lid or water)? Awesome to hear.
  7. nabokovfan87
    WC after treatment. I tend to do 2-3 50% WCs and run carbon for 7-14 days.
  8. nabokovfan87
    There was a thread posted in general, look up how to acid wash seiryu. That's where I'd start. That's what I did with mine, it's easy, works well, and will lower the impact on seiryu with a good amount of marbling on it. Which salty shrimp are you using?
  9. nabokovfan87
    I had a similar seal issue when I opened up my shrimpee food that I'd ordered. Today I got in my order from ACO and everything was fine. I went to open up the food and feed it out and BOOOOOM. Food everywhere. The seal didn't quite seal, I think I determined why, but this is the result apart from the bit on the floor. Not too bad, just caught me by surprise. You can zoom in / see the lid seal is slightly ajar from the jar. I looked at the lid and I'm assuming when it was closed up there was some flake on the rim that made it's way onto the glue. Not really a major concern, but just one of those things you hope to see fixed in future. For now, just be careful when you open a jar.
  10. nabokovfan87
    ORD. Beautiful fish! Making @tolstoy21jjealous. 🙂
  11. nabokovfan87
    Salt is used for external parasites (dehydrates them) as well as helping fish fight diseases. This would help your fish who are showing symptoms recover as well as help others in the tank to fight off the disease. It will also help the cysts in the substrate to die off, eventually, once they progress through the stages in their lifecycle. You don't remove the salt necessarily. Let it "stew" and do it's thing. Salt won't evaporate. You're going to basically remove it through water changes with time. Right now you're at 100% concentration for the dosing you need for your tank. after your first WC with the ICH-X you'll lower it. After a few WCs then you can add more in. Secondly, if you know the amount of water you're adding in, you can dose salt into the water during those WCs. this would keep it at the level you need be to help fight the disease. I tend to let the levels taper off and then repeat with multiple doses of salt. After say... 3-5 big WCs of 50-60%, then I'll dose the tank with salt again. Yes. It can work. I believe this is how @Chick-In-Of-TheSea handled their Ich treatment, maybe it was columnaris only, due to having only salt available on hand. I do think there is a thread.
  12. nabokovfan87
    Yes. That is a common practice for passive buffering on a tank.
  13. nabokovfan87
    One thing I'd extend a recommendation for when it comes to Seiryu is to purchase stone that is bigger than you think you need. If you want small, get medium or large sizes. If you want medium, get large or XL size. That white marbling you can actually use vinegar or pool acid to dissolve it out. You'll lose a good portion of the stone, and this caught me off guard at first. Take a few gallons of vinegar, let the rock soak for 15 minutes up to an hour if you need to. In the circumstance in the OP, post a picture of the stone and maybe this is a viable option to slow down on the issue of that calcium release affecting your water as much. I'll try to track down a video with before and after, but this something I did with my seiryu when I first got it.
  14. nabokovfan87
    This one is worth a read. It's a master's thesis paper and goes into population control of a native species and how the shrimp are impacting the ecosystem. Fun read. https://open.library.ubc.ca/soa/cIRcle/collections/ubctheses/24/items/1.0380902 This one is specifically about breeding colony temp, growth, and how well the shrimp do at certain ranges. https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0119468 For reference... 24C = 75F Here is another, specifically about what they go through at cooler temps. https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fmars.2021.746177/full
  15. nabokovfan87
    You'd want to treat the tank, yes. What is the temp you're at now? Salt - 1/2 cup per 10G. Order Ich-X and then it's on the way. I would suggest order 2 bottles so you have enough after treatment to have it on hand. You may also want to get additional salt. Not required for something like a 20G or smaller, but it doesn't expire and you're going to use some. General guideline here... 1. Dose in salt + Ich-X. Follow directions on the Ich-X bottle. 2. Raise temps slowly, 1.5-2 degrees per day essentially. 3. Get the temp to about 78+ for GTBs and then you'll want to leave it there while treating the disease.
  16. nabokovfan87
    Tail pattern looks slightly different (detail is on the edge vs. the entire tail). It might be that type of catfish, but I don't think it's that specific C number.
  17. nabokovfan87
    I can point you to some articles and studies. Shrimp, neos specifically you don't want to get too cold or they will start to have issues stemming from muscle failures. Essentially, there is a "too cold" and the deaths usually start from the body shutting down, specifically their muscles. For coldwater tanks I don't go below 68 if I can help it. For fish I set heaters to 72 (if it drops below that's ok). I try to keep a floor of temps, so to speak.
  18. nabokovfan87
    Beautifully scaped tanks. That's a gem of a find!
  19. nabokovfan87
    Yeah. I don't know how emeralds are. My pandas were literally a hivemind. Get to 30, then settle. When I rehomed half of them, they went back to breeding pretty readily again. Maybe it's a waste management thing. But it was always cool, still is fun to see 2-3 different size corydoras in the tank.
  20. nabokovfan87
    There are some of the smaller rainbows that have yellow as a primary color. Have you ever kept silvertip tetras? Your water mixing / aging setup sounds awesome. I need one!
  21. nabokovfan87
    😂 Very good point! While I do understand that, there are some amazing green fish!
  22. nabokovfan87
    1. What is the largest tank you've ever cared for? -75G 2. What is the most amount of tanks you've kept? Why? -I think it was either 6 or 7. 2 in the kids rooms, 3 in the main living area, then I had my own tank in my room. Two betta tanks, one was for my corydoras (panda at the time), main family tank by the dinner table, a 20L I had setup for something, and then I had my amano tank trying to grow out some of them to juveniles) 3. What is the next plant you wish to have in your tank? -Salvinia is up there, but I really want to get something bigger for the background. I think I'd really like to try a "fancy moss" and make a ledge or something. 4. What is the biggest challenge you face with maintenance? -Hardscape being in the way, basically. I wish it was easier to lift up wood to siphon or to go ahead and have a big enough tank where I wasn't worried about doing that except for deep cleans. 5. How often do you test your tank? -I try to do things every week. Often I will test things once a month. 6. Do you have aquarium salt on hand and what was the last time you used it? -yes, last week. 7. Have you ever kept a tank with a planted substrate, what did you like or dislike? -I did try one. Essentially it was "capped" but not well enough. The sand cap was moved by the output flow of the filter. Then the soil substrate was blown all over the surface. I can't say I won't use one ever again, but I can imagine a much different approach. 8. What is your favorite thingamajig that you have for your tank? (something you use) -A two step stool. Literally couldn't work on the tanks without it. Holds the bucket at the right height and I can use that to get to the filters and whatever. It's ALWAYS in the way, but it's also the one thing I leave in the way and work around. It stows behind the door out of the way when I don't have a bucket in the way. 9. What is your favorite color and do you have any fish in that color? -Green. Hm, Green tiger barbs would be the go-to and I do miss them. Right now I have otos and some black swordtails that have a similar green in their pattern. 10. Choose 2: Seiryu stone, Ohko stone, Red Lava Rock, Mopani wood, Manzanita wood. -Seriyu I have come to really appreciate. It's probably the easiest one to throw into a tank and make it look good. I would also like to try manzanita out. That would be the two I try to setup a tank with.
  23. nabokovfan87
    There should be plenty of hides in there. I would just let them do their thing now that you have some fry growing up.
  24. nabokovfan87
    For the bolivians? Rams are omnivores. Cichlid veggie (I'll let you find the brand that fits) is going to be what I recommend. They have various size pellets and just keep an eye on the ingredients packet. You'd want something with a good source of vitamins / minerals and try to get a pellet that reflects the list about as close to repashy soilent green or repashy bottom scratcher. Either of those two in various formats would be available. Let's say it was my tank.... veggie pellets just about every day, not a ton, but just to have that on offer. Repashy every 3-4 days. Some nights I would add in some krill/bug bites types granules (pellets) or feed some frozen foods. Specifically when dealing with worms and internal parasites. Spirulina brine shrimp is a go-to.
  25. nabokovfan87
    It's kind of a weird issue for me. Similar to something MTPK has for his (I believe). I moved "up the hill" which is the mountain pass and I'm up at the top of the pass. To get down it's one road up, one down, 30-40 miles at ridiculously unsafe conditions..... PEOPLE CAN'T DRIVE SLOW. Unfortunately the stores I do have up here are very, very small and saltwater. My closest local shop is up in the mountain village and does have a good reputation. More "unsafe" roads to get there, but I'd love being able to go there, heck, work and live there would be awesome if it was feasible. Down the hill, there's 4-5 cities. 2 to the east, 2 to the south, then you have what amounts to "LA" to the west. Lots of traffic, but the term local here usually means you're driving 70+ miles one way. Often. Whether it's for work or a day trip, you're driving. Going to the local shop ~100 miles round trip. This does limit things like buying certain food or driving that distance to take fish is pretty unreasonable. I can do this now, because I can bag them.... I would absolutely love to be able to make a trip like that one day. To the questions: 1. Yes, but it's only saltwater, mostly sells corals and things for saltwater. Meds, hardscape, items you'd use are basically nonexistent. You get coral foods, frozen foods, 1-2 tanks of fish, and then I got ripped off getting a refractometer there paying ~$70 for what was on amazon from the same brand and company for $20. After that, I have 2 petsmarts, 2 petcos in the area. 2. Just the one. There are a few "pet shops" but in terms of an aquarium store, the best you'll get is a reptile shop that has some tanks to sell some common items, but not much in terms of selection. It's about.... 1/4 the size or smaller in terms of what foods and other things are available. 3. Probably a 10 mile drive. one way. Getting to the store I prefer to go to is 16 miles one way. "local shop" as mentioned above is far further. living the dream. LOL. See above.
×
×
  • Create New...