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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. Research amano shrimp breeding. They typically (not all) will gravitate towards the light similar to brine shrimp. Something I've done is draining off water until there's enough and then just pouring the rest into a tank as gently as possible to go ahead and move them when I need to if I'm afraid to net them. I would imagine using dean's trick of a paint strainer is another elegant way to handle it as well. I am very upset for you that you can't experience having amano shrimp! What an amazing thing to add to any tank.
  2. Looks like some type of flatworm, yeah. @Biotope Biologist this is a fun one! 🙂 given the color, maybe a leech?
  3. I think there's a ton of weird information on corydoras. White vs. Beige sand, I don't really think they care what it is as much as how it is. Too small and it sticks to them are irritates them, causing flashing. I've kept mine on 3 different kinds of rocks, 3-4 different types of wood and they generally interact with it all the same as long as you prep it right to reduce damage on them. They like cover (sit in shadows) but they also like to have some open space. Think island style or triangle style aquascape that leaves 25-50% of the tank open or with just plants. Depending on what you choose will determine how they interact with it. The only thing I'd recommend or comment on based on the video above is that they would enjoy having a more open "grazing section" when you feed them. Busy week! Best of luck with everything.
  4. First clean out on the tank today. I did one bucket for each filter. The modded one ran for a few extra days while I was waiting for a pump, but it's not out of the ordinary given the flow path. Pretty cool to see the difference in effectiveness of specifically mechanical filtration.
  5. When it comes to shrimp, I try to avoid these two (hydra/planaria). Here is how I would handle it. Salt is definitely an option as it does irritate most parasites. You would still want to focus on siphoning and manual removal on top of any treatment.
  6. Yes it has been tried. I won't say it's ok or anything like that because I generally would prefer to leave nature where it is and appreciate it there. Follow any of your local laws before collecting anything.
  7. No worries at all! I wanted to make sure you got some assistance. 🙂
  8. It looks like some form of a flatworm. Detritus worms would be rounder, these look to be flat. If you have shrimp in the tank, be careful. You can use something called no planaria to treat if you wish to remove them. Further research required to get an ID, but I hope the above helps. Something as simple as adding salt to the tank (1/2 cup per 10g) might be a good starting point to reduce the numbers. This is a detritus worm I took a photo of swimming in the tank today.
  9. This is a generalized statement, but I was thinking about how fascinating learning about the Neocaridina shrimp has been for the past few months. Ultimately you can do research to your hearts content, but there are certain things you just won't learn until you see it in person. That's what the question here is. Be it amano, Neocaridina, or Caridina species in your care, what is something that you learned, but didn't quite understand or expect until you had the shrimp in the tank? For me.... I didn't realize until keeping the neos exactly how to feed them or how small they were. That's been one of the biggest conundrums is trying to fight the urge to feed too much and keeping the size of them in perspective when doing so. I probably watched 50+ videos on "don't overfeed" and saw how little it really takes, but seeing it in person, it's definitely a skill to master over time when it comes to how much food you place in the tank (and how often).
  10. I can't say which is optimal, but I would be weary of PH causing fin rot on the Betta. Let me try to do some quick maths and see what makes sense. Betta: PH: 6.0 to 8.0 Hardness: Soft to hard. dH range: 2.0 – 25.0 Temperature: 75 F to 85 F (23-30 C) Platy: PH: 7.0 to 8.3 Hardness: Medium to hard. dH range: 10-28 Temperature: 68-79°F (20-26°C) I would target 7.4-7.6 for PH. Temp for Betta is 78-80. The hardness above doesn't specify KH or GH specifically, which is a bit difficult. I assume, someone can correct me that it's generally referring to GH there for that value. 10 being a minimum for the platys. For KH I would let the PH range determine that value. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/ph-gh-kh You'd also want to adjust anything slowly as to avoid stress.
  11. The scape itself determines a lot for me as far as what would or could go in the tank. Nano fish specifically is all I would be thinking. The Betta wants generally warm temps, but let's say the tank is at 78 as opposed to 81. I would look at stuff like green neons, neon tetras, other tetra of that size that generally can get away from the Betta if it's feisty. The tank would need places for them to hide as well if need be. I would avoid loaches and Otos just because of temperature alone. Kuhli I just don't know if that goes with a Betta or not. It may be absolutely fine, but I don't know. If you want to get corydoras then I think the pygmy, hasbrosus, false julii, or sterbai do well. If your Betta is kept hotter, then I would scrap corydoras. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/betta-tank-mates
  12. I seriously don't know. I would think a fish has more issues from lack of oxygenation when temps get out of range. My tanks are very cold as long as I can keep them, summers here it's extremely hot. 120F on some days/weeks. The water temps do rise. But all I would suggest for that is to add more air/oxygenation. It's difficult to do when it's not a standard container. Not impossible at all. If you see fish struggling then generally adding an air stone is a great first step.
  13. I have one setup for a fish if you want me to measure temps I can. I do expect the temp to drop a little bit, keeping the flow on the higher side is pretty much one of the only ways to fight it. You can also wrap it in a towel or strafoam if you're running into a pretty severe drop. Convection basically being the reason why it's cooler. More exposure to the cold air in the room. (Essentially 5 sides)
  14. Such a nice setup! (all of it, all the things) I'm excited to see more. The loaches look amazing, the shrimp is just hanging out. The aspidoras are wonderful, and the CPDs is a perfect choice to fill out the tank. If you get a hankering for more, I would suggest white clouds. 🙂 That stocking is really making me miss my old setup I had, especially those borneo loaches I randomly found at the petco. It's really cool you were able to go and meet Guppysnail and see all the wonderful things going on, an awesome journey for sure!
  15. Welcome to the forums, the tank looks great! Amano shrimp would do just fine with about anything you wish to add in there. I don't know if kuhlis would go after them though. If you're thinking of something like the dwarf shrimp, neocaridina, then I would opt for starting the colony out and getting a good amount of mature adults and then add in the fish. Given that it's a newer tank, the wood is great for them. You might want to wait for the plants and stuff to grow in a little bit, get some algae on it, and then try out the neos if that is something you were considering. I have a 75G as well and I definitely err on the side of community fish rather than bigger ones. I did have a few SAEs in there and I do have this one. She's a RTBS and is about 6" long. 🙂
  16. If I'm using a python, it's just a 40-50% water change. I setup the python to take out water and then get the stool and bucket and siphon out the substrate (avoid some sand going to the plumbing). If I am using buckets, I try to keep it to 2-3 buckets worth of water. It equates to just under 50% most of the time. The tanks aren't filled to the brim, but they are generally full / taller side of the spectrum. For my 10G I am always struggling to not pull out too much water..... and getting the water in the tank without spilling it everywhere. 😞 A lot of that method comes from having issues with algae that sends out spores. I change a certain amount per week to try to remove those spores.
  17. Which temperature? Generally cooler temperatures help with algae. For most aquariums cooler temps would be 70-74 range. I tend to err on the side of 72-74 for a setting and when things get cold at night my tanks drop in the 70-71 range. For a plants only setup, I'd set the heater to 72. There are some plants that can't handle warmer temps and you'll tend to see issues in some cases when things get really warm for them.
  18. It looks a bit like scarlet temple. The tanks look great! I really like the shrimp and those cardinals 😍. Welcome to the fun!
  19. It sort of depends on your approach. I have one tank with good size chunks of mopani and it generally doesn't affect the water. If you're cramming the tank 50% full of wood, then I'd be concerned. adding a branch, a few depending on tank size, I don't think it's going to cause much of any drop. I've noticed it as little as none or as much as .3-.5 ph. Generally speaking, I boil the wood and then rinse it off really well. Then I soak it for at least a week. Every day (or other day) I will go ahead and swap out the water to let the wood leech what it needs to. If this is really full of stuff then I would soak it for longer and just observe how it does. Some wood not intended for aquariums will turn to mush and others would just be fine. Soaking the wood though, in a bucket, lid/towel laying on top, is what a lot of people do to get it ready for the tank.
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