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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Killi, just because Bettas can be so hit or miss.
  2. nabokovfan87
    I beg for a recount. 😂 I checked yesterday and never saw the post!!?? Shrimps for the win!
  3. nabokovfan87
    I generally don't worry about this. Even dosing salt, it often doesn't break cycle for me. Add air whenever you add meds, that also helps the strong bacteria to thrive. There's probably a few people here who have avoided using meds with snails. That's the common practice when dosing a tank. I understand that isn't easy sometimes. Then a snail dies, and you don't find it and that alone crashes a tank with the ammonia spike. I think removing snails is the way to go, depending on what you're treating and for how long, if you can do so. If you can't, then another way to go about it is to use it in food and target feed.
  4. nabokovfan87
    Honestly, I think a lot of the issue is youtube's algorithm. Some of the most common things that I know have a video, I can't find it anymore and I'm pushed videos that are older but are channels I subscribe to instead of what I search for. The robots are just weird sometimes. @Colu and/or @Odd Duck can definitely help out here. I can try to help clarify or research things with you if there's a specific detail you really want to verify. Randomly losing fish is always troubling and difficult. 😞
  5. nabokovfan87
    Hey hey @CJs Aquatics As far as "what it is" here is the ingredients list from the SDS Sheet for Polyguard. A lot of these ingredients are pretty common and looking up those individual ingredients might give you a little better idea of what each is used for. Details on use with other meds: https://seachem.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360015758654-FAQ-Can-I-use-Seachem-SulfaPlex-and-PolyGuard-together- https://seachem.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360015446594 https://seachem.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360016067274-FAQ-Can-I-use-Seachem-PolyGuard-together-with- Details on using the med with snails/invertebrates https://seachem.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360016168133-FAQ-Can-I-use-Seachem-PolyGuard-in-a-tank-where-I-m-keeping- https://seachem.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360044104214-FAQ-Are-there-any-Seachem-medications-that-I-can-use-on-my-shrimp-snails-plants-or-corals- Essentially, their policy is to say that they don't recommend use with the snails or other invertebrates due to their ability to be sensitive.
  6. nabokovfan87
    Definitely makes sense to me. Easier to care and feed them, make sure they eat, and are ready for the move. You also can easily move them to something like a hang on breeder box (or internal one) once you have something setup for the fish in general. Even a tub, floating breeder box works well too. Very difficult to say. I would try to wait as long as possible. Preferably a few weeks if you can at all. It depends on how many containers, how far of a trip you have to make. It might make sense to get bags and to pack the fish up in an ice chest. It might make sense to use tubs (or buckets) with lids and an airstone. I try to keep things as minimally full as I can just to reduce ammonia as much as possible.
  7. nabokovfan87
    I am changing a few of the foods I offer my corydoras. I want them to have a bit better diet and I am trying to feed specific things as opposed to others. The Dry Foods I would recommend: -Hikari Discus food -Fluval bug bites granules (for bottom feeders) -Xtreme Krill flakes, Xtreme Spirulina flakes, Community Crave (60-40 mix of the first 2), or so-fly flake -NLS Algaemax granules + Wafers -Northfin Veggie cichlid pellets, 1-2mm (this stuff sinks hard and you need sand or very fine substrate to keep it at the surface for them) Gel Food -Repashy Super Green (powder = fry food) -Repashy Soilent Green (powder = fry food) -Repashy Community blend (powder = fry food) -Repashy Bottom Scratcher (They LOVE this stuff, but too chunky for fry food) Frozen -Spirulina brine shrimp (frozen) -SMALL (I emphasize small) frozen blood worms. The only ones I see that offer mini is a specific one from hikari. Just be careful with how big you get and how big the corydoras are. I have tried a variety of things in the past, some works a bit better than others. Vibrabites, Xtreme semi-floating pellets, various hikari food samples, aqueon food, tetra food, Sera foods, Northfin Wafers, and others. (I realize this is a very old thread!) @FrozenFins how are your corydoras doing!?
  8. nabokovfan87
    The fine quality of this plant I really like. Red Arrow, I think in your tank, constantly in the photos this plant is phenomenally active. In terms of art it's the "movement" this plant gives off that I just really am drawn to. For the plant on the left, marked in purple, this is all the same plant front to back?
  9. nabokovfan87
    Sorry it's been a busy day! If you feel confident, yes you can start the tabs, but it isn't going to make a big difference if you start them not vs. later. The tabs are for fungus, secondary infections. They do have some bacterial meds in there as well. It takes a lot to treat it, especially given the size of the tank here. I don't know how many you have one hand. the other thing you can consider is salt. Given the fish involved needs a bit of a lighter dose of salt, I would opt for the 1/4 cup per 10G ratio (lowest level) and this should be safe for everything in the tank. If @Odd Duck or @Colu have a better direction for salt in this situation by all means. I will also CC @Chick-In-Of-TheSea as she's dealt a lot with this and we were discussing her thread and photos previously. It isn't uncommon for adding say another species of tetra (or loach) and seeing issues on an existing colony. I would dose in salt, then use the tabs / kanaplex together. For now, try to get a good photo and we'll wait for Colu/OD to reply here. The biggest thing is going to be getting a video or photo so we can ID it or at least have an idea of what's going on. Is the wound fuzzy at all? Is it smooth or protruding from the body of the fish?
  10. nabokovfan87
    That's why they cut a ton of holes in the basket I think. There's a bit of room to make the basket taller and it's potentially mandatory in a future design. I think the fear of "besting aquaclear" got the better of them and the notion of the basket floating up and hitting into the lid. There's a lot to say, I don't disagree with the summaries you have made.
  11. nabokovfan87
    Bye bye my little 29.... We learned a lot and definitely fought But I appreciate all you did provide.
  12. nabokovfan87
    Halfway done.... So far I have this much substrate moved. Fish are moved here: Plants here (and on hard scape): Spraybar moved, not setup at all. Hardacape is here for now. Move it over after I cap half the tank.
  13. nabokovfan87
    Now or never..... Time to go see how easy it is to net all these guys again.
  14. nabokovfan87
    If you want to use inert (what you have) or gravel (also inert) or a different type of natural sand, then I'd recommend using just one type. It will mix. If you get black of different weights / sizes then you might get a cap and be successful keeping the finer stuff on top, but in my experience it has always resulted in something where the two substrates mixed. If you're looking for "beach sand" style of sand then that will limit in some capacity what plants do well, but the main thing is to just be aware of that and plan accordingly. It compacts more, less circulation to the roots, they don't grow as easily. Some plants don't mind at all and will grow like weeds still (PSO in particular). The main point of caution here is to keep in mind how thick everything is getting with regards to adding layers. 4" in the front, 6-8" in the back is about normal in a lot of tanks I've seen, and you don't want to go too thick to prefect issues with anaerobic pockets causing issues. Especially with a fine sand on the top, there is a risk of that causing those dead spots of rotting things. This is a great video on how to care for sand (in either case that you use).
  15. nabokovfan87
    Can you show a photo? Might just be fine gravel that they are calling sand, especially considering it's black.
  16. nabokovfan87
    The pump directs water to the top of the basket. The basket itself acts as a "chute" to channel the water to the bottom. Best I can think is to cut a basket up, chop it, then direct water to the flow. Once you're at that point, you need to basically design a flow plate and then take that to baffle the flow across the chamber. As I've shown in a few tests, using normal "mech" type of media isn't a good enough baffle for this case because the pump is so strong. A lot of this is because it's ultimately designed for salt, not freshwater. I would be interested to take the same exact setup and add the harder to flow water and see the difference. I'm not setup for that, but it's an interesting puzzle when you compound everything going on and trying to fix things as "easily" as possible. I do have some ideas, I cut the basket out a LOT more this time. We will see how it goes.
  17. nabokovfan87
    @Lennie Check em out!
  18. nabokovfan87
    Minor update on the 55 Tank, new prefilter applied. I am going to see how well this works. For this specific size and setup this one should be "good" but I did have a heck of a time trying to get it on all of the tidal input tubes. If I cut it open, then it will tear a bit too much. I am hoping this one holds it shape longer. I do want to try out the larger size (larger hole) on the bigger filters, but I do believe it would be too loose. This is the one designed for the smaller penguins.
  19. nabokovfan87
    With this jar I think you might be culling the carbons to the wild types. Slight difference, but just depends on which you're wanting. Given how much is popping, eventually you'll have some really nice black rose shrimp!
  20. nabokovfan87
    Lemon or Mint tea is pretty special! How goes the tanks @TeeJay all good?
  21. nabokovfan87
    They can be for certain! I think there's advantages so the use of a HoB, but there is always a few key variables. A. How big is the pump, where is it, can it be adjusted.... how easy is it to keep functioning. B. How is the flow setup, bottom to top or side to side? C. How is the output flow designed? I actually have a bit of an example to your conclusions above. The exact same filter, but the only difference being the way water flows through that filter. Small changes make a bit of difference. Left Side = Modded Right Side = Unmodded The substrate was fixed last night, both pumps turned to the same flowrate and left to run. This was the photograph in the morning. Looking at the output flow I did notice a pretty big difference in person. The one of the right is much more "choppy" and the output waterfall is a lot more disrupted. Modded (smoother flow, deeper flow): Normal Flow (less depth): This is one of my biggest issues. I also think that a design by which the pump is LAST and pulling through all of the media, or a trickle style design does alleviate some of the issues of the output. I do think that the prevalence of etsy baffles and so many other mods, speaks to the frustration of the use with how the filters do (or don't) work the way they would like them to do so. Something like a spraybar output is a great way to handle this. These products do indeed exist. They are much more prevalent in the EU.
  22. nabokovfan87
    Definitely not a bite intended for harm. Very cool to see!
  23. nabokovfan87
    As long as it's colder.... Might be fine. (I won't say should be) That's either the world's most massive binder clip or it's a cup. Either one is quite funny.
  24. nabokovfan87
    Kettle is about to be flipped on. Hopefully TJ can smell the coffee this morning. I will enjoy pretty much any tea. Not picky at all (generally) and I do have my favorites. Herbal tea is something I wouldn't mind having daily.
  25. nabokovfan87
    How is the tank's filter setup, what media is in it? If you're running filtration that doesn't have a lot of strong bacteria something could happen where the bioload increases but there isn't enough strong bacteria to react quickly enough. This is very common in filters without ceramic media or with cartridges. Adding some ceramics would help stabilize the tank (bacteria likes that surface) and it's easy for them to grow on. Especially in high flow setups, hang on back filters, it's helpful. If you're running a sponge, you can add a small bag of ceramic media to the top of it.
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