nabokovfan87

When I looked at the cost of the 55G on sale compared to a 75G on sale.... Yeah I had to get a stand again 😞 I use the old one as a set of shelves, but it's very much worth the extra $40 or so to get the bigger one for me. Can't recommend it enough. Just make sure your floor situation is fine. Cement floor you should be able to handle pretty much everything 75G and under, but definitely do the research in terms of that. I can't wait to use my 55G stand for a 30L.... one day. Very much agreed to this ^^

Welcome to the forums! I see soil in the tank as well as lighting and some good stuff in the tank. I just moved my own tank recently. Old tank: Inert Substrate New tank: A little bit of active substrate It's all relative as to what the situation for the plants are new vs. old when it comes to something like this. Is the new tank easier for you to care for and manage? Does it improve lighting for the plants or nutrition for the plants in form of dosing ease? Unless I'm mistaken, the trimmings you have are already in the tank, the tank is already setup, and the crux of the question is "will it work?" Yes, and this is just normal plant propagation for things that you have. The tank looks good, setup looks good. I think you may have a very dim light, but time will tell and seeing how the plants do will help answer that question. As for the base question, here's a video of a tank being completely torn down and started with trimmings from other tanks. Entirely possible to be successful and this is how a lot of us handle getting plants for our tanks. Have them in one tank, then grow them, and add them elsewhere. 🙂 You would want to wait for the tank to be cycled. @Chick-In-Of-TheSea just set up a jar for shrimp and it's very similar to yours. Might be helpful to see their thread and follow along 🙂. The main question is just about filtration, are you using plants as the filter without anything else? https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/beginner-planted-aquarium https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/fish-tank-cycling

Apart from the above mentioned items I would also highly recommend enjoying some of this guy's videos. Very knowledgeable and straightforward information.

A 40B is essentially (not exactly) a 3 foot long 75G tank. It's a bit deeper, not quite the same depth, but the advantage for both the 75G and the 40B is that you have a ton of room front to back. The added room is nice if you want larger size fish that need room to turn around. Even 4 inch or larger fish, personally I tend to want to have room for them to get around hardscape, for the hardscape itself, and turn without much issues. This also dramatically changes how your filtration performs and impacts the substrate. A 55G is going to be ever so slightly taller, so if you don't want your shoulders wet, it's something to consider. It's a tall tank, but I eventually changed out my 55G community tank with one that had more room front to back. The fish I had all should've been very happy with how the setup long term, but it was a situation where I wasn't. Trying to fill the vertical space can be challenging if you're not expecting to. Taller stems, substrate height, and hardscape can be great ways to handle the vertical challenge. Having a longer tank 3-4 foot long is really nice if you've only ever had something 20L or smaller previously. It's much more cinematic looking at the tank! That is definitely one of the advantages if you have a particular scape in mind for a 4 foot long tank. If you can walk into a shop and see both, pretend like you're doing maintenance or something and give yourself a feel for how the tanks are to work in. Best of luck deciding @NanotankBank ! Ultimately the math is similar, but it's very different in terms of feel and use of space. Think of it like sitting at a table and using a stool vs. using a bench. With the bench you are able to move around a bit easier left to right. With the stool, you have to be careful not to tip over (tall stool in this case) and movement is much more constrained. Ultimately, one tank is about 25% longer than the other, but you're also looking at ~33% shallower (front to back).

@Jim O Hello, welcome to the forums! I would recommend emailing support if you don't receive the answers from the team here. Cc @Candi @Zenzo can you help us out!?

A lot of times you tend to see the same 20-30 fish over and over depending on store size. I would honestly visit, go in and check the fish, just check on things. If you see a ton of dead fish constantly, then expect issues. I would tend to prefer to order online at that point. I will mention aquahuna as well as other online stores. There is a coupon code you can use on the ACO website for aquahuna. Shipping is very affordable as well. A lot of the fish I have kept were from Petco/petsmart. I also have some from aquabid as well as aquahuna, and from the forums now! 🙂 Anyways, there's always things to do, but my recommendation would be to find a store you're happy with care first, go from there. If you can't, then don't feel forced and know there are other options available at similar price.

Makes sense! Let us know how things go.

Please share full water parameters, including temperature. I would like to understand, along with Colu's questions above what you've done specifically to treat this fish. You mentioned using food, how are you preparing it? How much? Are you doing things like a thorough cleaning following treatments and cleaning filtration to remove parasites from the tank as well? As @Chick-In-Of-TheSea mentioned, I would also recommend using aquarium salt for this situation. Given the multitude of things you're mentioning, a photo of the fish, the tank, and further details really would help. Cc @Odd Duck as well. They are extremely busy this week, but potentially can review things as the data is added.

Try to siphon it well. Especially under the big gravel it looks like there's a decent bit of waste in one of the photos. Some white rocks would buffer the water up. I don't know if yours are reactive, they look to be inert to me. Hopefully the logs can shed some light on the situation!

This is a great technique, hopefully it's not something you have to do long term. Essentially, if you have chloramines all you would do is double the dose of your dechlorinator. Nothing excessive or difficult, just that little adjustment. You'd care for the tank like normal and then go ahead and monitor all of your parameters as you normally would. The most common reason for ammonia is going to be overstocking or a dead fish in the tank, but it can show up via the water before it even gets in the tank. This is just where testing the tap water itself helps to shed some light on what is going on. This is what you did. What is the ammonia testing in the tank itself? What about nitrite and nitrate? I can't say specifically what is causing it, but we can go through each item and verify everything is ok. First, test the tap water, verify there is ammonia coming in. That dechlorinator is being used and adequately so for this situation. Second, verify stocking and that the tank isn't excessively over filled beyond the capacity of the tank (note, tank not filtration) Third, verify the tank is adequately filtered and that the equipment is working properly. 1. Done, yes ammonia in the tap, just need to adjust dechlorinator use amount. 2. Please let us know 3. Seems to be adequate. Please share more details on setup if you feel it's an issue or concern. If the PH in the tank is considerably higher than the tap water (especially after 24 hours of off gasing) then you would look at hardscape in the tank or something causing the tank to buffer the KH/PH up. The stratum in the tank should lower the PH naturally as well.

I don't know if that's normal activity or stress signs, but yeah, I'd go ahead with columnaris treatment. It will likely take at least 2 full treatments minimum.

I would tend to lean towards this. The big question is how long will it take to get things going between trips? Meaning, once you get to the destination, how much work is it to get the tank itself up and running. There's going to be ammonia spikes, you'd want carbon and stuff to handle that as well. The way I moved, you can scale is as need be, but it usually works. You can replace the word buckets with tubs for whatever need be for your situation. A. pull all the hardscape, keep anything with plants wet. B. pull all the plants, keep them wet. (you have room in the bottom of this container to add some media if you want. I had sponges in mine. C. drain the tank so it's easy to net fish, catch the fish out into their own bucked and then add your ceramic media with bacteria to the bottom of that bucket. That bucket also gets an airstone. Cover the bucket so the fish can't jump and keep them out of an area of traffic. Shadows and things like that aren't great. Note: For a longer journey you can bag them, use a heat pack, then use an ice chest of insulated box. That's the difference. D. Use a net you dont mind breaking and dig out the substrate. rinse it if you want to, then cover it in a bucket with a good lid and set aside for the move. This is also a great opportunity to change substrate if you wish. E. Take the tank off the stand, clean things as you need to (rinse out with water), clean the lids, and pack up all of the fish stuff. When you leave, the fish were the last to go and first to be setup upon arrival. Even if you're just setting up the tank and then filling it up with water and heat, that works. I had the fish with me in the car so I was sure the buckets didn't fall over, temp controlled as well. I very much lost some plants because I set the bucket down and they dried out. Don't forget!

My other team is the Dolphins. It's been a long time since I've seen either team do amazingly well. Always have hope! Gotta cherish the journey. On youtube, I made a video called "Tua's Journey" it's got a little sharks clip in there of Marleau talking about why he plays. Amazing stuff, amazing humans playing the game and it's always awesome to hear the stories and watch them do what they do. Couldn't be more happy with my NHL Team 🙂 . ....and yeah. I could not stand any goalie post Nabby. Especially Toskala. Always so small. I'm surprised Jones can reach the top of the net half the time.

I found an old article on goliad farms. I might have to see what they have to add to this group!

Awesome to hear. Some fish just need a good home. 1. Bloody Mary Neocaridina Shrimp, waiting for it's water change 🙂 2. This is El Nino Fern, Bolbitis heteroclita, and it's one of those plants I watch every day just to see what on earth it's doing. Trying to be successful with it. 3. Anubias Nana Petite. This is one I am also watching every day. I can't wait for it to be around this rock and surrounding the rocks. The contrast is really cool. This is one of my anubias I've been trying to recover for a very long time. 4. One of the big Amanos. Discord definitely crushes images and makes them blury, but on the phone, I really adore this photo. 🙂 5. Guess how difficult it is to get a photo of a fast moving fish in a high flow tank!? Pretty hard. These are some swordtails that have a mix of green, black, yellow hues and I'm working on expanding the colony size. Steps in motion today! One of these two guys will be my breeder males, probably both.

Is the discus ok? Looks like it's sick a little? I don't look at a ton of discus photos, but I just saw the fish and it reminded me of.... a little bit OH MAN. I love this! I am a big fan of bottom dwellers, especially nurse sharks, gobys, corydoras, etc. I like this guy, what a cool fish! Must. do. research. @Fish Folk Grabbing the phone, going into 50mm lens mode, let's see what we can find in the tanks today 🙂

Is it the same as this stuff!?

https://seachem.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360050726473-FAQ-I-ve-heard-that-Seachem-Flourish-Excel-is-actually-dangerous-or-not-helpful-to-my-aquarium-plants-Is-that-true- If you have an airstone already, that should be adequate. I couldn't see one. my apologies! In terms of filtration, I just do a deep clean. Make sure the ceramics aren't clogged and then I go ahead and clean all mechanical filtration to make sure it can filter organics for removal. If you need to siphon, that may be beneficial as well.

https://www.epa.gov/dwreginfo/basic-information-about-chloramines-and-drinking-water-disinfection It's from the water treatment plants and shows up on aquarium test strips as ammonia, typically. You may not have any ammonia in the water, but what you're seeing might actually be chloramine in the water. There is also a blog article by fritz which advocates their products, but gives you similar detail as to what is going on behind the scenes, chemically, in the water when you use a dechlor in the water.

I forgot to mention also, with using dechlor, you would want to verify equipment (filtration and oxygenation) is working well. Adding an airstone potentially.

Looks like the algae I've been dealing with in my tanks. It usually goes after plants with dying leaves first.

Sounds familiar. LOL.

ORD: 😍 That's awesome.

@knee had mentioned the name in a different thread, I'm trying to recall it. Cladophora algae maybe?

This could be an indication of chloramines. I think the only advice there would be to add a 2x dose of dechlor instead of the standard dose. The bottles on the back of prime specify: