nabokovfan87

It should be perfectly safe to use. The only think I'd recommend is to make sure you're running an extra airstone given the meds in the water. Adding salt on top of that would thicken the water a little bit more. I often see/recommend ich-x + salt together. For bacterial (Maracyn) it's the same thing.

Nah, we'll see. I am used to handling them, surprised how fast they are growing. The plan is to get to a biweekly schedule for both tanks. Extend things out from the usual.

I know it seems foolish, but I am still waiting to see more molts. Shrimp got fed today and I peaked in to check how active they were. This is a very, very interesting video. I do appreciate the effort there to weigh shrimp and figure out how much. It's good to see the side by side and to keep some semblance of how much I feed my tank. I think using 0.5 or smaller granules is probably really great shrimp food as long as you can manage to get it into the dish for them. The food I have now is 1mm pellets and I tend to feed 1 per shrimp or 1 for every 2. Had to snag some photos, and I did see the shrimplets hiding in the sponge, that'll be fun come Wednesday. My apologies if the lighting is wonky.

Marks shrimp tanks on YouTube has a plethora of Caridina videos. More than enough to get you started in the right food and have good success with them.

You only get one prototype, so the main thing is to take the time to do it right. In terms of engineering, this is the long, slow, important process. Like your question about glass. It's going to vary for the tank size, thickness, for the tank design (rimmed vs. Rimless). You'd be looking at.... Tensile strength of glass.

Have you dosed any aquarium salt? I use 1/2 cup per 10g for something like this. 1/3 cup per 10g is a little easier but all my corys do fine with either.

There are some hang on canisters, but yeah, that's usually an issue. There are shower filters that sit on the top of a tank. That's awesome. Keep up the good work!

Metabolism is very likely due to the temperature. It'd be interesting to see the size average, lifespan, and temp for each situation. Second to that variable above is going to be how much food, how often, and can the snails grow enough shell to keep up. Definitely interesting.

It's kind of ridiculous how many things are forms of or labelled as aenus corydoras. There's so much confusion and it's really difficult to get the "right one". @CJs Aquatics This came up I want to say 2 months back and it was almost the same situation. One thing that's frustrating from my side is that the two corydoras that get confused are often very different sizes in the end. Emerald green vs. bronze corydoras. Bronze corydoras: https://www.planetcatfish.com/common/species.php?species_id=51 Emerald green: https://www.planetcatfish.com/common/species.php?species_id=114 You can see it in Pepere's photos as well as yours there is a. Iridescent green along the bottom of the body. Keep an eye on how they develop and color up. From what I have seen the emerald greens get a bit chunkier and taller compared to others. They are bigger bodied and taller. The dorsal ok the emeralds looks to be a little bit larger as well, but there is a variety of photos on the planet catfish site for each species. I'd also review this one. "Green gold corydoras" https://www.planetcatfish.com/common/species.php?species_id=111 Can you show the adults please! The fry on PC are pretty unique looking. Very interesting journey some corydoras take from fry to adult.

😂Happy to help. Hopefully everything improves and the ammonia/nitrites balance themselves with the filtration. I know exactly how exhausting that process is. Keep us posted!

😂 That's awesome, nice work! Do you dry some of the leaves for the shrimp? Not sure if it'd be safe to use but they do sell mulberry leaves for that.

If you haven't read this before it's worth a look. Might help out. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/ph-gh-kh

I fixed the noise. It was just a little weird with how the intake strainer fits over the impeller. It's actually part of the shaft and housing. The one before was... 29G --> Sicce Syncra Nano: 110 GPH 75G --> Aquatop (older) Pump: 168 GPH It works for about 3 foot length of the tank as far as pushing the CO2 around, but in terms of circulation it works well and the setup is fine. I'll have to check the other Tidal again. I did find out the Tidal pumps are the exact same design as the syncra pumps from sicce with minor changes. Same housing, base plate from the nano actually will slide into and mount the tidal pump. The tidal 55 pump is almost identical to the syncra nano is size and shape. The O ring is only supposed to be installed in one setup mode, the one with the spraybar. It fits right and was kind of a hassle to remove the first time when I was playing with things. Good idea though! For now the syncra is all bagged up and might be used elsewhere one day. Yeah.... It's temperamental right!

Method 1 Method 2 Do your pipes have suction cups?

I think below 74 is probably fine for most / all corydoras. during the summers my fish are at 76-78 range and there's basically nothing I can do to stop that. It gives the tanks seasons, so to speak, but when I run heaters I keep the tank at 72-74 as a base. If the heater is set to 74 it could be 2 degrees cooler or warmer based on what heater you have and it's accuracy (and calibration).

There's a few brands out there with them. Fluval, Nicrew, and some others have items available. I would not use them for plant growth and most of them are simply intended for accent lighting.

If your water is showing ammonia, it could be a sign of chloramines in the water. There are some tests you can run that will indicate which one you're dealing with. You would use an off-gas test (chloramines take longer to dissipate from the water) or you would optimally use test strips for chlorine which show free and total chlorine. From Fritz Aquatic article on Chloramines Essentially, you'd just use a double dose of dechlorinator. On Prime this is listed on the back of the bottle as the recommended dose for chloramines. The other method is just off-gas test to confirm: From ACO blog: https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/faqs/does-letting-water-sit-remove-chlorine

@Colu given the results above, is PH issues based on no/low KH causing stress on the tank as well? yes you can do water changes every 24 hours. If you only have corydoras in the tank, they can safely be at lower temps and prefer it.

Yes, just use a paper towel or toothbrush to knock it off, let it settle, then do a gravel vac. It's not going to be around when there is fish there, it's mostly just the cycling part of the tank and the "seasoning" so to speak from having wood and other organics in the water. Let the plants grow in and take your time. No rush. Especially that DHG. Once you see runners and growth, then it's a sign the plants are doing good.

They do not. Mine don't even leave the wood to eat algae wafers commonly. They are extremely light sensitive. I've got 3 types of wood. They definitely rasp on it, but you wouldn't even know they've been there for years. One stumpy piece I have has a cave, they chewed out the underside of some mopani to make room, but all of that just looks like normal wood erosion over time. Soft wood I'd be concerned, but with the Malaysian driftwood (stump), mopani, or ghost wood, I don't even notice anything.

Definitely not. It only matters critically for shrimp. Most fish just want the clean water and will acclimate. If you have something like 8.2 PH African cichlids, even then you'd just add aragonite to the new tank and still use fresh water.

What does the partition look like? The overflow style weir prefilter concept won't work? Rectangle of sponge with a hole cut around the pump tube? You could use AC foam to do this or something finer. The foam they use and the style of cut they use is essentially exactly what flip aquatics uses. Instead of it being vertical, foam for you would be horizontal.

I finished up all of the maintenance today. I messed around with the spraybar pump (source of noise) and tried to add some lubricant to the bushing on the impeller shaft. I'm tempted to buy the new pump from ACO, but I kind of want to know what the impeller housing all that looks like. This one I have now is gated (1/4-turn) but it's the exact orientation that causes the pump to not fit the way I need it to. (Suction cups are facing the wrong way, open water) Anyways, I cleaned out the filters, watched the fish do their thing and got all the maintenance done. 12 buckets of water hauling, 1 hour of work. The filter was fixed, heater moved, I moved around the wood and what not, siphoned and took my time. I cleaned the CO2 diffuser to ensure finer bubbles, and then went ahead and filled the tank back up. Substrate is easy to siphon, which means the cap is thick enough. I did notice some junk on it, but it's the first real siphon on this tank. I'll keep an eye on it, force myself to keep on top of it moving forward. There is some key knowledge in there I hadn't had before. I am thankful I found it. The S. Repens seems to be back to the "doing well" stage, but I'm still unsure. I cleaned out the drop checker and found this video from George Farmer. It seems to make a lot of sense as to what tool to use to check the CO2, especially given all the acidic things going on in my water. I feel like I could dump a lot in there and still never see a change on the drop checker. The Hygro Pinnatifida is GROWING! I have an offshoot. That's the first time since I've owned the plant it's happened for me. I am really, really hoping that plant takes off and I can propagate enough of it out to cover a good section. I really enjoy the look of it. Once I have enough growing, I do want to try to plant it again and feed it from the roots. I'll try to grab some photos in the light. The plant is a lot closer to the light and the lighting is stronger now, which is benefiting to some semblance of difference in the plant. I also found out on Corvus' stream that he was having issues keeping the tank too clean and not enough nitrates in the tank for the plant to feed on. I need to keep an eye on that. The only other item of note is the anubias in the front, still keeping an eye on the BBA on the roots and the amanos ignoring it for the time being. Moss is recovering, slight adjustment of the wood/light seems to have perked it up. any day now I need to trim, chop up the moss, propagate it out again. There are some dead spots from the last planting, so we'll see how easy it is to trim when the time comes. First, the moss that perked up, second (left side) is some of the moss that has been shaded out a little too much. I'll test things in the morning and post the results below.

Much calmer this week. I didn't have the time/opportunity to take photos. It was a bit dark today. The filters and everything seem to be doing fine. As a note I will mention that the modified filter had some "fun noise" turning on just from the air purging through the system. I went ahead and checked the level on the filter to make sure there wasn't any issues and I'll keep an ear out on everything for the rest of the night. I don't really have any concern of an issue, but I wanted to mention it. There's always a variety of reasons for things and if it's an issue long term we'll be able to note that as well. Sponges weren't insanely dirty or anything. The filters have been generally running "lower flow" as a result of the layout in the tank and not wanting to push the fish around too much. Plants and fish are settled in now, meaning that I can turn them up to full blast if need be. right now I have them set "down 2 ticks" on the dial. This is about 70-80% flow.

Groot! I have to re-watch and share this now. This is the most adorable thing I've seen. What are the big blocks in the middle? I'm thinking some sort of rock, what kind? White clouds?