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About Me

  1. Hi all, new here and I tried to find a similar post so forgive me for starting a new one if there was a more appropriate place to be- posted on the introductory page a bit about what I have as far as tanks/equip/fish etc. When I started my 20 gallon I just wanted a peaceful community tank with fish that had similar parameter needs of course and I didn't want reproduction, so I avoided live bearers and "easy breeders". I ended up with 10 Harlequin Rasboras and 7 Otocinclus. Well about 6 months into my endeavor I now have 25 baby catfish and counting. I know some have fallen prey to the Rasboras which is ok, that's nature, but I've managed to contain the 25+ in a floating breeder box (boy am I glad I got that for "back up" plans). I seem to catch 1 or 2 daily in varying stages of develoment. Of all the hours and hours of research I did I didn't look into this because I never thought I'd be able to breed what is sometimes called on the internet an "intermediate level" breeder: now what?! I started another 20 gallon which I plan to likely house my Rasboras and I'll up the number of Otos in my well established algae covered tank where they bred- I have 1 friend who also keeps fish and she's taking a half dozen. This isn't likely to stop happening so can anyone give me ideas on how to rehome fish? Thank you in advance for your ideas!
  2. I know this question has been asked 1,000 times so I apologize in advance, I just wanted to hear some opinions from like minded nerms. I have a 60 Gallon Tall (which is a weird tank, but I got a good deal on it) with 1 Angel, 1 White Skirt Tetra, and 1 Glofish Tetra. I have another Angel and Oto-cat in a QT Tank that I plan on adding eventually. My Tetras are pretty territorial and skidish. So I wanted to add more to make them more comfortable. How many more white skirts and glo tetras could I add to make them shoal together while keeping the tank slightly understocked (less frequent water changes)? I'm trying to keep the tank understocked because I have to get my water from the town over. The reason being.. my tap has a pH of 9 and a KH of 10 so its really hard to adjust/ I don't want to chase pH/ my fish are used to the other towns water. I've done a ton of research to find a better way but this is the only way that's affordable at the moment. Thank you for your time! (Sorry for the bad formatting, I'm on mobile)
  3. I have started my first planted tank in a 36 gallon bowfront with 9 platys . I will add 3 angelfish this weekend. When I started fertilizing I got a big growth in algae and am thinking about adding some Oto’s to help balance things while I fine tune lighting and fertilizer . I dont want to overstock but I’m not sure that they count the same as other fish because they primarily stick to the bottom and sides! I do have a few nirite and mystery snails as well. Would appreciate any help/ thoughts on the subject!
  4. It always seems like my otos are grazing on something. I removed my nerite snails from this tank to make sure the snails weren't taking up precious resources and so far I have not really seen a pause in the constant grazing. However, I have read that algae alone isn't going to be sufficient for a group of otos to live on. I have dropped algae wafers for them but I have not once seen one try to eat one, or by the time they might get close to a wafer, the wafer is being worked on by any of my various omnivorous fish. The gouramis are particularly gluttonous. I don't want my otos to starve. Is there anything (a veggie or something) that gourami or tetra won't eat so my otos can?
  5. Hi everyone, I have an otto cat that got caught in an ornament and has pretty bad scrapes. I moved him to a quarantine tank and hes been there for 36 hours. What can I treat him with to help aid to fight infection and skin care. Thank in advance
  6. Hi, I'm very new to fish keeping and currently doing a fish in cycle (because I didn't know any better) on a 20 gallon long with some Guppies but already I'm thinking I'll upgrade to a 40 gallon breeder in the next couple of months. Really interested in getting some Oto's once I have the bigger tank established but have seen a lot of posts where people are having problems keeping them fed. The place I keep my horses uses 150 gallon poly water troughs and those things grow algae like crazy, would it be an ok idea to scrape off some algae from the troughs and put them in my aquarium for Oto's? The source water would be different than what is at my house, would that be a problem? We have feeder goldfish in the troughs for mosquito control and they seem to be thriving. I do have a couple of live plants in my 20 gallon and plan to move them and add more to the 40 gallon
  7. My 60 gallon tank is not up and running yet but I found a vendor who has some 6 inch long rope fish for sale. I know rope fish will eat whatever they can fit in their mouth, but at such a small size, are small fish at risk if they are in the same tank? I have also noticed they are sort of harder to find so I dont necessarily want to miss an opportunity if possible.
  8. Greetings Every single serious aquarist know to do his/her research on a particular species before buying it. But... is it me or you can find pretty much every opinion and it’s opposite? I want to give the best care possible to my fish but I end up so confused. I have hair algea in my 10 gallons and green algea mostly only on my anubias on my 15 and 20 gallons. For some reason, my nerite snail don’t like to go on top of the leaves. My lights are on a timer, 8 hours a day. I dislike the look of algea and would like to get otocinclus - everywhere they recommend a group of 5-6 or else the fish get stressed. I don’t think my tanks are big enough or could support them. Cory is the only one that seems to recommend 2 oto, even only 1 for a small tank. Has anyone experienced only 1 or 2 oto in their tank? @Cory Could you reassure me that I wouldn’t make a mistake to get only 2 otos for each of my tanks? Thank you!
  9. Otocinclus or as I usually call them Otos, are one of those fish that many people have so many questions about. They are a species that have many issues in the hobby, most are nearly starved to death by the time they reach our tanks, and many are very picky eaters when we first get them, making the problem even worse. A lot of the time the best advice you will get is to not add them unless your tank is well seasoned and has plenty of biofilm to get them through transition. Some people have luck with feeding cucumber, or canned green beans, others have success with algae wafers and Rapashy, and still more people try all of the above, to just watch all of it go uneaten as their Otos slowly fade away. I used to be one of those people that had difficulty keeping them alive more than a couple weeks. one of the early tricks I tried to get them through quarantine, was to set up a tote outside in i sunny spot, cover the bottom with 8 inch long pieces of driftwood add a good dose of ferts and let the biofilm start to grow, After a few days of this being set up I would purchase my Otos, put them in quarantine, and rotate the pieces of drift wood daily while offering other foods. This reduced my loses, but was still not optimal. Then one day I stumbled across a YouTube video, it was Mark's Aquatics, and he was making shrimp food, from various plant materials he had gathered and dried. I thought to myself that I would have to try that some day for my shrimp. Later that day I stumbled across a research paper, discussing the use of various seeds, as a means to supplement Omega 3 and ^ for farm raised Tilapia, primarily the use of Chia seeds, which were considered highly palatable to Tilapia. Well having been on a health food kick or two in my life, I knew Chia seeds to be considered a super food, and that when soaked in liquid, they form this gelatinous ball around each seed about 5 times the size of the seed. That's when the light bulb kicked on. I had chia seeds. I had a whole garden full of, organic greens and a few other items kicking around the fish room. Over the next few days I gathered and dried a variety of greens. and once they were dried I started by Grinding about a cup of Chia seeds in an electric coffee grinder to make a fine powder. I then used the coffee grinder on dried Kale, dreid dandelion leaves, dried peas, dried parsley, raspberry leaves , and freeze dried blood worms, and spiralina flakes. I mixed it all together and added a small amount of garlic powder to the mix. I took about an eighth of a teaspoon of this mix and added about the same amount of water to it in a small container, and mixed it up with my planting tongs to make it into a firm dough like consistency. I used my planting tongs to smear a small amount of this onto a piece of driftwood in my Otos tank, I also offered small bits of this to my shrimp, and guppies. The shrimp and guppies devoured it immediately, the Otos took a about and hour or so to try it, but after the first bite, the devoured it. After a few days, they all had fat little bellies, within two weeks they spawned for me the first time, and the fry could be seen feeding on this mix and they flourished. This is in a species only tank, as I was focusing on finding a way to feed the Otos primarily. So the fry stayed with the parents until they were big enough to move to community tanks. As they were growing I would offer other foods in addition to this home made Oto Fuel as I call it, and being introduced to variety at a younger age, all my tank raised Otos will eat almost anything I offer now. My original wild caught trio Spawned at least four times in the first three months I had them, until I added other fish to their tank because I was completely over run with Otos. I have them in every tank like Malaysian Trumpet snails, they were everywhere! I Sold most of them fairly easily as they got to the half inch size that i deemed adequate, to sell. I have made several batches of this food since varying amounts of the same ingredients, and have found that the otos seem to enjoy a slightly higher amount of Kale over the other greens, other than this I haven't really noticed much difference in performance or palatability. I have discovered that all my fish that enjoy some plant material in their diet, enjoy this food, and I believe the higher amounts of Omega 3 and 6 fatty acids help condition fish for breeding quicker. I just wanted to share my experience, and experiments with the community, and I hope if anyone tries a variation of this and has success they will let me know. I think this would work well with plecos as well and the formula can be tweaked to add more protein, or less depending on the specific requirements of the species targeted. I do believe the Chia seeds as a base rather than a gelatin or agar is definitely, beneficial to the overall results, I also have started adding a calcium powder to the mix when I feed shrimp, and snails. Anyway sorry for the long rambling format, hopefully you pick up an idea or two before succumbing to boredom. Until next time Happy fishkeeping.
  10. Hi there. I have a few tanks, back in November I started up a new 29g planted tank. I moved 3 ottos from my 10g to the 29g. Then added 3 false julii from my 20g to the 29g, along with 4 molly fry (temporarily to grow out). I wanted to primarily dedicate this tank as a "Catfish Tank." The tank looked a bit lonely. The beginning of January I ordered: 1 Baby Female Super Red BN Pleco. 3 Ottocinculus. 4 more False Julii Corydoras. 1 Otto & 1 Cory died right away - first fish deaths I had in over a year. The 2cd Otto developed fungus & also died. I have 1 Otto & 3 cories left from my online order. I Quarantined them for 3.7 weeks with no signs of disease. I added them to the 29g. Now im starting to get concerned. They have been in the 29g for almost 1 month and have not colored up. The 3 newer cories huddle together in a back corner, sometimes with clamped fins, I also see them rubbing against decorations and rocks - which is normally a sign of stress right? The 3 older cories are 2 females 1 male, one has a deformity she was born with on her side, but I've had them for 1 year almost since they were babies, they eat healthy, play, swim, very active, sift through sand, or clean plants, I feed them a healthy varied diet. They are very dark in color, I was trying to get a couple photos for comparisons. When the older cories are next to the newer- the color difference is HUGE. The older ones keep trying to coax the newer ones out to swim & play, the newer ones will join for a moment & then go right back to hiding. Also the 1 newer Otto left has been tail clamping. I added lots of plants, used sand, and made this tank as Corydora Friendly as I could. I can't see any fungus or white spots, could there be something bacterial or parasitic wrong with them that I cannot physically see? Entire Stocking of Tank: 1 Baby BN Pleco 4 Ottocinculus (3 older -1 new) 6 False Julii Corydoras (3 old - 3 new) 4 molly fry Various Plants & 20 Bladder Snails Ammonia: 0ppm Nitrates: under 20ppm Nitrite: 0ppm Chlorine: 0ppm. GH:200-300ppm. Alkalinity(KH) 60ppm PH: 7.6-7.8 (plant fluctuations) Temp 76°-78° The last 2 photos of are my older Cories for color comparison.
  11. Chris OB


    Anyone have success treating ick with fritz fixick? Brought some otocinclus home yesterday all looked healthy at the shop and yesterday but the shop was treating a different tank, I knew better but went ahead because they looked good. 0 ppm ammonia 0 nitrite 10 nitrate ph 7.4 gh 4 kh 9 temperature is now 83 after turning it up from 76 and did that over a 12 hour period. I lost a existing rasbora who wasn’t showing any signs of illness and I also Corydoras in the tank. Hopefully this stuff works. I’d bought a 20 long over the weekend to set up a quarantine tank and my aquarium co op sponge filters showed up today. At this point I’m treating my whole tank obviously and I should’ve just waited for my quarantine tank to be ready. Damn!!
  12. I am dealing with an outbreak of black beard hair algae in my tank. This has been going on for a while, but has recently gotten worse due to me upgrading my aquarium light. Recently I noticed my Oto eating the algae though, which is strange because I didn’t think that they eat this type of algae. If anyone has any suggestions on how to deal with this type of algae, please feel free to let me know. But, it’s not as bad as I thought if my Oto is willing to eat some of it. Maybe all I need to do is buy another
  13. Hi everybody! I got repashy super green for my otocinclus but it seems like my zebra danios are scarfing it all down. I even fed them before and I waited until the light was off for bed time to put it in. Does anyone have any tips on how to get some food to my otos without my danios sniffing it out like it’s the last time they’ll ever eat? 😂 thank you!
  14. I have 2 Oto Cats in a 29 gallon tank that have found a favorite spot and don't move from there. Both Otos stay behind a java fern I have in the back corner of my tank. When they where new to the tank a they were very active cruising around from plant to plant and hanging out on the drift wood. they have been in the tank for 5-6 month. Both look very health but do not come out from behind the java fern as they did before. When they were active they kept the plant leaves clean and free from any algae. Would adding a couple more coax them out?
  15. Hey all just wondering if anyone has tips or tricks for breeding otocinclus or borneo suckers?
  16. I picked up my oto trio two days ago and put them in my old 5 gallon that i left setup and covered with diatoms in anticipation of getting my otos. They demolished the algae in less than 12 hours. So yesterday I made them some repashy on a rock. It ended up not sticking to the rock and peeled off in a sheet under the water current and sat on the substrate. Today it either dissolved or they ate it all. So now I'm wondering should I slow down on feeding them or keep going? I don't want to give them digestive issues from over eating but my understanding is undereating is the typical problem. I'm inclined to give them something every day, a wafer, cucumber, repashy etc (whatever they'll take as i discover what they like). But that seems like a lot more food than what my guppies get, though "wet" food probably counts for less than dry flakes.
  17. My goal is to put them into a food coma from over eating so I got my 5 gallon extra ready for them. Its been 20 min and this guy has already gone to town. Hopefully they'll get nice and fat and eventually learn to eat veggies or soilent green or something else too.
  18. Got some Oto cats from the store last Saturday and put them in their own quarantine tank with some algae infested Anubias. Can anyone confirm if they look like Oto eggs?
  19. I currently have a 10 gallon aquarium that's stocked with a (peaceful) betta, 4 endlers, and 4 julii corydoras. Would it be okay/safe to squeeze in 3 otocinclus?
  20. I'm setting up my new tank's scape and thinking about plants. I'm thinking of making one section be a Dwarf Sagittaria "forest" (tank is 12" deep) and then having a big rock on the otherside surrounded by monte carlo. I have two questions: 1) will the monte carlo prevent the oto's from doing what they like to do on the rocks? or will they tear up the monte carlo? 2) I heard otos like to hang out on leaves. Is dwarf sagittaria wide enough for them to cling on and hang out or should I consider something else?
  21. Edit: Read to bottom for start of 75 gallon false bottom tank So I’ve had a 29 gallon tank setup for about a year now that’s happily producing a slowly expanding colony of otocinclus and habrosus corydoras. Breeding both has been a goal for a while, so that’s been fun. Due to the year being what it is, the tank has been pretty, ugly, and pretty ugly at times. The water is always clean, but I haven’t always kept up with the plant maintenance. The hard scape got removed to be cleaned after it got covered in algae, and once the crypts grew in I just never put it back.
  22. Not sure if this were I should post this. But I noticed one of my Otocinclus has a red spot underneath the mouth between the gills. The other otos don't show this. He/she is very active munching away still. Thoughts? Oh 6.8 to 7.2 co2 during day, airstones at night. 0 Amonia, 0 Nitrite, ~10ppm nitrate (when I fertilized) gh/kh 8. Temp drops to about 74 to 74.5 in the morning. Climbs to about 76.5 in the evening on light cycle decline, over a 12-14 hour period.
  23. So I've just ordered some otocinclus cocama and not sure how I should do quarantine when they get here. I have a 20 long I set up just for them but I want to medicate them when I receive them. Only thing is the 20 long is a planted tank and I don't want to medicate in that one. I do have a 10 gallon well established with some regular otocinclus I could put in there to medicate. Don't mind using medication in that one as the plants could be moved easily. The only thing is with these fish their very sensitive to any kind of human interaction and tank changes so I don't want to give them and me the added stress of trying to net them in a month or so after treatment. I feel I would experience losses after transfer and 5 of these cost me over 100 dollars with 40 of it being overnight shipping. What do you guys suggest I do? Treat in the 10 gallon and move later, or treat them in the 20, or don't treat them unless they fall Ill as they will be the only fish in the 20 gallon. These are very valuable to me and any losses would be upsetting as I also would like to breed them.
  24. My little 10g is ready for some more life, but I'm down a research hole and need advice. I was originally planning for pea puffers, but I think I want just a colony of algae eaters for now, so I'm thinking cherry shrimp, Nerite snails and otos. My tank is currently in a major brown algae situation, so I'm thinking that will feed everyone for a bit, but what do I get to make them all happy long term? I have some banquet blocks coming tomorrow. I think my primary concern is the otos. Should I buy Repashy? What do you all think of it? It sounds kind of complex for this newbie. Maybe 6 otos? Or more because the bioload of the others is so minimal? And should I get Wonder Shell automatically? I know the banquet blocks have calcium in them. Should I wait until all the algae is gone? Will that be too late for the otos? I tend to over prepare for things so I'm spinning at the moment. My tank is heavily planted with more plants on the way.
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