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Brandy

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Everything posted by Brandy

  1. In this 2018 paper It was found that the most recent sperm donor is favored, but in some cases drops can be a combination of two father's offspring. The assumption was that the most recent sperm was the healthiest. The second insemination was given 1-6 days following the first drop, as suggested by @Trey above. While it is true that genetic testing showed for most females that the second group was from the second father only, in some cases the drops were of mixed paternity. ROYALSOCIETYPUBLISHING.ORG My point, for the original poster, was that while you can have fry from two different fathers in a single pregnancy, you cannot have a single fry with two different fathers. One egg, one sperm. This may be obvious to many, but not everyone has the same background.
  2. Depends on the betta. Mine just steals their food! 😆
  3. I would not do the bettas unless that tank is larger than it looks...and maybe not even then. Males get so protective over the young they can go after the female after breeding is completed. If your heat is really that high do a pair of german blue rams! Tons of color and personality. Mine are easy keepers, but I have soft acidic tap water--literally the perfect stuff for them. They try to breed about once a month, but in their crowded tank they have not been successful raising young. If they were alone with no snails, I would have a bucket of fry by now I bet.
  4. I have 3 khuli loaches in my 29. They ignore my large ramshorns, but my bladder snail population started becoming discarded empty shells on the bottom, and I seem to have no young snails anymore. I don't KNOW the khulis are doing it, but they seem the most likely to manage to remove the snail and leave the shell intact. They are also incredibly fat. I still need a population reduction for my larger ramshorns... On the other hand, my kid has 3 khulis too. And bladder snails.
  5. I did get some nice red ramshorns once! I've also gotten mini ramshorns, and I kinda like them, they are so tiny you don't notice them.
  6. Well, there is about a 90% chance they are pond or bladder snails. You should consider whether you want those in your tank, and act accordingly. You COULD take them out, put them in a jar of water with a little lettuce, and let them hatch. Then you can decide if you like them as they get big enough to identify. However, one warning--if you hope to raise an egg scattering fish, they may eat the eggs.
  7. spotted blue eye rainbows (Pseudomugil gertrudae) or green neon rasboras (aka Kubotai rasboras)
  8. I suspect you need to upgrade your light a bit. Is it LED or fluorescent? can you give a pic of the tank or the light? Also most plants do need fertilizer unless you have many fish. Also, gold fish are known for uprooting and disturbing plants. You may need to really secure the roots of rooted varieties using a pile of larger rocks or an Aquarium Co-op Planter. I don't think it is an accident that the Java fern is your main survivor.
  9. Ok, taking the photo according to the best practices from the other thread yielded an improvement. I would not have thought to use the flash for fear of reflections. I also like the tip from @JimmyGimbal to steal lights from other tanks-- That is so simple I feel dumb for not thinking of it! using my phone's fast action setting, with tracking focus, and WITH FLASH, I got this: a marked improvement from previous efforts, no flash: Now to CLEAN THE GLASS, and add a background to the tank...I still think the flash one is a little fuzzy, but that may just take more timing.
  10. lol, I don't believe my guppies sleep! The instant I approach the tank they beg for food. 😆
  11. So I have a cell phone (pixel3A), and that is all. I am not a photographer. I need to get some closeups of my guppies, but they MOVE SO FAST! My phone can take nice shots of my shrimp, so I know it is possible. How do you get awesome closeups of fast moving fish? Especially with that nice black background that professional shots always seem to have? Is this lighting, equipment, post processing? I think I need a small container set up as a guppy photo studio with optimal lighting and a black background--like a light box almost. Advice greatly appreciated!!
  12. Staghorn. I hate it. Siamese Algae Eaters will reportedly eat it. I have controlled it with flourish excel (liquid carbon), but it recurs. In my case I think I need more fertilizer(nitrogen) in the tank to boost plant growth and out compete it.
  13. I got mine locally from a hobbyist in my town--they took off almost immediately. I almost regret them now, they are thugs and keep crowding my other plants. If I did nothing, my tank would just look like a cube of Val. I think they really really need to be acclimated to your water. I do have a 6500k light, but I don't use root tabs for them, and barely remember to use easy green. They are in eco complete.
  14. The real trick to fast breeding is feeding just enough--you want to feed as much pellet food as they can clean up in a day. If it is still there the next morning wait a day until they clean it up and then offer less. As the colony grows you will be adding more and more. They can eat a lot as a group. Like snails they breed more when there is an abundance of food, but you don't want to foul the water.
  15. You definitely can. First, start with 10-12 shrimp and don't just choose the largest and the brightest. Those will be all female. Males will be skinnier and a little paler. You can start with fewer, but the higher number makes things go a little faster, and assure you a good mix. Use fine leaved plants like java moss, horn wort, make a pile of rocks or something with many hiding places so they feel secure, add a few catappa leaves or alder cones, and some cholla wood if you can get it--I found some on etsy of all places. The wood will take forever to sink, you can weight it with a rock. The wood and leaves pull double duty as a food source and hiding places. Any shrimp pellet will do if they are hungry, I prefer a calcium fortified one because my water has low calcium, and they need it for their shells (if you are like me with crazy soft water you may also want to add a tiny bit of crushed coral). Here is a great video by @Irene
  16. Huh. My cherry shrimp are in 7 different lidless tanks. I have had snails climb out and the rare fish jump, but none of the shrimp have ever left. I have a betta in a rimless 5g. The shrimp in there mostly just don't grow very fast. He eats their food.
  17. Are they LED? I would not have the blue light on at all.
  18. I wonder what is the minimum sized predator that is big enough to eat a full grown or large juvenile guppy? Like if you grew out and saved the prettiest ones, what would snack on the plain ones? Apologies if this is offensive to anyone. Just curious.
  19. How many gallons is this tank anyway? I was thinking...I remember you did not plan to put in a filter, and I am more and more beginning to believe filtration is largely cosmetic when you cram your tank full of plants like me. I would rather buy more plants and lights.
  20. Awesome, sounds like you have a local market then! I have not seen the blue ones here, but the red ones are everywhere. One more tip--you should probably separate the colors, or they may cross breed and you will get brown or something.
  21. I know I am a fan...and I need to add that tag to one of my posts! edited to add: Lol, nope, never mind it is already there.
  22. I would test your kh, but yes--you should still add a little so that they don't exhaust their supply--hopefully you will have MANY snails in your tank and you want them to grow fast. Once you see shell pitting it is too late. It is mostly cosmetic, but it will lower the value of your snails. I have red ones, they hitch hiked in on a plant at some point. They will probably sell better, but your local market will determine the price. I see a person on my local craigslist offering them by the cupful, as puffer food, so do check around to see if they are already a flooded market.
  23. While I agree that this it troublesome, I think @Danielis saying that if you are dosing extra prime the ammonia may appear to spike even higher as the prime itself may interact with the test. I think even if you have a cory buried in the substrate, you should be able to get thru this without nuking the tank. Unless you put your plants and scape back immediately I would worry that right there could crash your cycle. I would get the plants back in asap, and keep the prime in there to protect the fish while you wait for the bacteria to bloom and catch up to whatever the new food source is. Newer tanks can just be a little touchy.
  24. In a rimmed tank the glass is held above the shelf surface, and the rims distribute the weight evenly, avoiding a point load on the glass. Rimless tanks sit directly on the shelf surface. Glass is strong but brittle, so if you imagine setting a tank on a small (very small) rock, while it is empty it will be ok, but once you add water the weight of the tank will punch that little rock thru the bottom of the tank, causing a failure. It becomes the princess and the pea!
  25. They will breed according to the amount of food you feed, so lots of veggies like canned green beans and cucumber and so on. You will also need to supply a source of calcium, so that they have pretty shells, not all pitted and scabby looking. That can be tums, or some coral in the substrate. personally I would offer both. But I would also consider breeding mystery snails instead. They will sell better.
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