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Found 13 results

  1. I’ve heard of folks having a plant cultivation tank and wondered if I could get some opinions on lights, substrate and filtration. I have a 10 g standard Aqueon tank. I have some Leftovers from my ponds - aquatic potting mix, gravel, crushed coral, lava rock etc as well as some laterite powder from Brightwell. My thoughts were to put the aquatic potting soil and laterite down, then a layer of lava rock, gravel/sand/crushed coral layer over that and then plant. Lights I have an Aquaneat and a shoplight laying around and figured I’d put both of those on it full power for 2 sessions of 5 hours each. Plants I was going to do ludwigia species, crypts nurii rosen maiden, tropica, and pink flamingo, and I thought this linderia india variegated looked cool. Im hoping not to do CO2 but I’m open to it.
  2. I received some nodes of Nymphoides hydrophylla 'Taiwan' in the mail today. Most of the green has melted into soup but the roots look very healthy. Should I let them float for a few weeks before I try planting? Or just go for it now? Any insight or advice is much appreciated! This is the only one with a leaf, the rest are just roots.
  3. Hi guys, i have attached my water parameters to get a closer look at calcium etc etc. Living in the UK means i cannot get hold of easy green. I have been dosing TNC Lite and Flourish (Flourish for the Calcium, Magnesium and Iron) The only plants i stock are Java ferns and a few different anubias (oh and a tiger lotus which seems to be the only plants surviving) . Please bare in mind that the camera is making the plants look much healthier than what they look like in person. I do not use co2, my lights (LED) 8are on for 8 hours per day. Any help is greatly appreciated as i am slowly loosing interest in plants as a result of my many failed attempts.
  4. Hi all! So I have had my planted tank for a week as of today, and I have a few questions. Should I wait before doing water tests with the API Master Water Testing Kit or test as I go through the cycle. Should I have waited to plant until it the tank had cycled? I have seen answers go either way, my Vallisneria appears to be "melting" which I understand is normal as it adjusts to the new tank. I guess my question is when should I worry that it's gone? I did do a test this morning. Nitrates looked to be at 2 PPM, Ammonia was 0, and Nitrate was 0. PH was 7.6 on the standard, 7.4 on the High PH Test. Im wondering if these numbers mean anything at all in this one week. I feel a bit dumb to be honest cause I watch videos, and read articles and everything seems to either go in either direction. Thanks in advance!
  5. I have always struggled with keeping stem plants, planted. I use a soil substrate with a gravel cap. I am now trying these small, tera cotta pots and so far they are working great. I can do the planting outside the tank and arrange the plants in each pot like I want. Also easy to move without disturbing the plant. The pots are easy to bury in the substrate and not bad looking if you just place them on top of the substrate. Plants do well in them. They are available on Amazon and are very inexpensive. Your thoughts?
  6. I'm setting up my new tank's scape and thinking about plants. I'm thinking of making one section be a Dwarf Sagittaria "forest" (tank is 12" deep) and then having a big rock on the otherside surrounded by monte carlo. I have two questions: 1) will the monte carlo prevent the oto's from doing what they like to do on the rocks? or will they tear up the monte carlo? 2) I heard otos like to hang out on leaves. Is dwarf sagittaria wide enough for them to cling on and hang out or should I consider something else?
  7. Good morning all! My first planted tank has been up and about for almost 2 weeks now and doing well. I LOVE LOVE LOVE my apongeton, but the darn thing keeps floating out of the substrate. As I understand it, you should not completely bury the bulb, however all the roots seem to come out from the top of it and are not in the substrate because of this. If I do bury shallow, then the roots aren't in and it always ends up going on a cruise around my tank. If I try to get the roots in the substrate, it results in the vast majority of the bulb being buried. Am I missing something? I feel dumb that I have a Master's degree but can't solve this problem lol. Thanks in advance for entertaining my silly question!
  8. New to planted aquariums and trying to balance my tank. I'm getting lot's of algae on my anubias. I fertilize as necessary to keep some nitrates in my take. My lighting needs to be on the high side because I have other plants that I'm trying to grow out to shade the anubias. Would co2 help? Should I reduce the light intensity or duration?
  9. Hi guys I've noticed a lot of people on this forum that either have some kind of chemistry/science background or are just incredibly intelligent. I've come to ask anybody that could fill in the gaps of my research or show me what I'm misunderstanding. To keep it short I am injecting co2 into my 65 gallon tank and I am using dry salts for fertilization. I have been creating solutions for a couple weeks now but have since reverted back to dry dosing since I suspect I am making a mistake in creating my solutions. Among other nutrient deficiencies It seems that I am lacking in iron. This is the part hopefully someone could better explain what I'm doing wrong or missing . I've been dosing 1/4 tsp Plantex csm + B 3 times a week. I've read that EDTA precipitates iron at ph of 6.5 and my tap water degassed is somewhere from 8.2-8.4. I have since stopped creating the solution and made two changes. I dose plantex dry 30 minutes before lights come on and my ph reads somewhere from 6.6-6.4 (the api test kits are kinda hard to read and probably not that accurate) and I supplement with .2ppm 11% DTPA fe. Ive included some pictures with closeup to show what I'm seeing Here are some of my tank parameters: Nitrate: 30-40 ppm most of which comes from my tap water and livestock I do add about 5-10 ppm with KNO3 Potassium: 25-30 ppm from KNO3,K2SO4 and KH2PO4 Phosphate: 4-5 ppm KH2PO4 GH: 7 dGH KB: 6dKH The ph of my tank is around 7.6 before co2 comes out When the light comes on ph stays around 6.6-6.4 the whole day As I said earlier I'm not sure how accurate these readings are since I usually watch my fish response but this is the lowest I can go before stress I'm noticing chlorosis and I see pinholes in older leaves of rotala hra. Because of how much K I'm dosing Im starting to think its because of poor substrate since I ran out of root tabs a month ago. I use eco complete The rotala macrandra is starting to look better, before I started adding DTPA it looked similar to the hra
  10. Hi! I'm very new to the hobby (2 months) and I've been learning as much as I can about guppies. I just love the little guys, both the color and their 'spunkiness'. I struggle to keep the 'big chain' fish alive. I've had some success with getting a few fry out of them but often experience the death of pregnant females. I've read that adding more plants will help with cover (using plastic square things right now) and water quality. So I'm putting together my 2nd Aquarium Coop order and was needing a recommendation on a live plant to add. I have a small breeder tank (10g) that I'm using while I wait for my 20L to get up and running. Once it's ready it'll all go in the 20L. The only requirements I have are: Low light friendly. Good for guppy fry. (I have a few Marimo moss balls in there now). Grows well in an Easy Planter. (No substrate in the tank, I don't want to mask my overfeeding mistakes etc. Still learning) Grows well with just Easy Green All-in-One fertilizer. Apologies if this is old hat or newbie stuff. Thank you for reading this and any info would be appreciated. Chris. P.S.: I'm a huge fan of Cory. I was inspired to start from his videos and I really appreciate all he does for the hobby.
  11. Got the initial surge of plants I wanted, a few as pots and tissue culture so wanted to ask some advice of you better then me. Still waiting on a few select plants and weeping moss to finish but here it goes. Cyptocoryne Retrospiralis, out of all 21 plants these ones seemed worse for wear. They (all plants) have only been in their new home for about 36 hours. They have a bit more green now instead of brown and sadness. But my question is what's best way to perk this guy back up ? Monte Carlo, I've read a lot on this plant cause I absolute love the way it looks. But my question is, will it work? Right now they aren't really pushed into the substrate, just resting on top with a rock, bit of glue here and there. Should I try thinning and pushing further in? Or let it do its thing? And pray it takes hold? Alternanthera Reineckii Mini, tissue culture. Everything I've read is hit or miss of them acclimating to the environment, this one I really wanted. So an insight? One is kinda losing some red and turn green a bit so idk if that's a melting trait or what. Haven't added the Java moss, or weeping moss (waiting) might add some more anubias petites. But that's what I'm working with so far.
  12. Hey everyone! Looking for some guidance. I have spent a ton of money buying some beautiful healthy looking plants from co-op and yet everything seems to die in my tank. I have been buying a variety of things all easy low light plants that are supposed to be good for beginners and yet nothing stays nice for longer than a month. I have tried val, java fern, anubias petite and a few other things while also using easy green. Nothing lives. These are the latest batch of plants and their current condition. They were beautifully green and very tall when I first got them . Can anyone tell me what they think I might be doing wrong? Any advice is appreciated.
  13. I am new to plants and would like to know some good resources for identifying deficiencies. I think that this one in particular is a magnesium deficiency. I have started to dose weekly with Easy Green. Should I snip these leaves off at the base?
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