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Found 17 results

  1. Would appreciate some advice from experienced keepers. I have a new 40 gal. breeder set up that I used a combination of Fritz 7, Fritz Fishless Fuel (Ammonia) and eventually some active sponge filters from Angelsplus.com to cycle. My goldfish arrived yesterday from King Koi and they appear to be doing great (2 baby Ranchus & 2 baby Orandas). I have some moss, a water sprite and a small crinum calamistratum in the tank as well. The substrate is sand. The water parameters before the fish arrived 24 hours ago: Ph 8.2, Ammonia 0 ppm, Nitrite 0 ppm, Nitrate 10 ppm, 70 degrees f The water parameters this morning: Ph 8.2, Ammonia 0-.25 ppm (can't really tell but it looks like maybe a tinge of greenish), Nitrite 0 ppm, Nitrate 10-12 ppm, 70 degrees f It's hard for me to discern if there's a green twinge, but it seems it could be heading in that direction. Is this to be expected with the increased bio load? Does an increase portend an Ammonia spike? How much Ammonia constitutes a spike? I know it is very important to keep Ammonia & Nitrite at zero, and I have also read a bit this morning about calculating unionized Ammonia versus the raw Ammonia result produced by the test kit. I test the tank daily because I really don't want my fish to suffer any ill effects. Thanks in advance! --Juli
  2. Background: This morning I discovered that my daughter's 10g plated tank was leaking, and not just a little bit. We removed all the fish, and then my husband proceeded to dump them into my 20g planted tank. I tested and changed water (30%) in the 20g tank yesterday. This morning, before transfer, water parameters were 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrites, 20 Nitrates. In addition to the fish, I moved three of the plants from the 10g to the 20g. The plan is to get a new tank but the setup and cycling won't happen overnight. All of the filter media and hardscape are currently sitting in a bucket of tank water. Here are my concerns: My 20g planted has only been cycled for a few weeks. Even a mature tank that small would take a hit from adding so many new fish at once. I added a dose of Stability and a dose of Prime as a precaution. Is there anything else I can/should do to minimize the inevitable ammonia/nitrite spike? I am worried about the otos. Platies also like to peck at algae so now there are 5 otos and more competition for food. I add zucchini and green beans a couple times a week but the platies like the veggies too. The platies also eat all of the Repashy Soilent Green so the otos never get any. (platies are the golden retrievers of the fish world). Any advice for getting enough food for the otos without ending up with chubby platies? Fish transferred: 4 adult platy -Rocket, Diamond, Chicken, Sparkles 2 juvenile platy - Cheetah, Dart 2 fry - so small they are still clear 2 otocinclus - Schmendrick and Dr. Marsh Fish already in 20g tank: 1 adult platy - Baby Shark 6 juvenile platy - Spot, Glitter, Clementine, The Silver Surfer, Kirk, Spock, Red Shirt 3 otocinclus - Tony, Ray, and John Wick (the clean-up crew)
  3. I just finished cycling a little over a week ago (at least I thought I did) as I was able to dose my tank with 2ppms of ammonia and 24 hours later ammonia and nitrites were 0. Since then I’ve been dosing 2ppms of ammonia daily and ammonia and nitrites are always at 0 the next day. Suddenly today I test the water and both ammonia and nitrites are at 0.5 ppms? I can’t think of anything that could have caused that? I don’t see any snails in the tanks, I haven’t dosed any anti bacterial medications or anything like that all I’ve been doing is dosing 2ppms of ammonia daily. Is there anything I might be missing? I do weekly water changes every Friday, and during my last water change which was 5 days ago I trimmed and removed some dying plant leaves. Thats the only change I could possibly think of but every day since then the tank was able to process 2ppms of ammonia until now so I don’t think that affected it. Does this mean my tank isn’t cycled? Did beneficial bacteria just die off? Also I’m not sure if this is relevant but my ph was also 7.6 today, which I thought was strange because when I test ph before my weekly water change it’s usually 6.4 - 6.6, I was going to add crushed coral to raise my kh and hopefully my ph too but now my ph is 7.6 and I’m just confused. Any possible explanations or advice would be appreciated 🙂
  4. I have a question: It’s been 3 weeks (almost) since I set up my tank (10 gal) added 1 betta fish. I have gotten 0 ammonia until now. I test every other day. 0 nitrite and 0 nitrate. I do have live plants and they are starting to grow. Yesterday I added 3 root tabs and 1ml of easy green fertilizer since my tank was reading 0 nitrate and I have a cryptocoryne which needed root tabs. Today I had 0.5 ppm ammonia. I changed 30% of my water. Do I do more water changes or do I leave it at that? If I do more water changes will it not delay the cycle? If I don’t, aren’t these ammonia levels harmful for fish? I am inclined towards setting up a quarantine for Frodo and leave my tank to cycle, is this a better idea? Are the root tabs causing ammonia spike?
  5. I'm thinking about adding a pea-puffer into a planted tank I have right now with no other fish, only a thriving population of ramshorn snails. I know pea puffers will eat the snails and I don't really mind. But I've also heard that once they're full, they'll keep killing the snails, just not eating them. Does anyone know how determined a pea-puffer is to kill every snail? Is there a chance it'll kill enough snails without eating them to cause an ammonia problem in the tank from all the snail bodies?
  6. I am new to having fish and have learned a lot in past few weeks about what it takes to care for them. I have been watching a lot of the video's which are a big help, Thank you. My question is, I had already bought the fish the day I got the tank and had no clue about cycling a tank till after I got them in there. So I went to the store and got Seachem Prime to keep in the water to bind the ammonia until the tank becomes cycled. I have added a few plants and check the water everyday. I change the water every other day about 50%. I have a lot of decoration in the tank also for Beneficial Bacteria to grow on. I added the Beneficial Bacteria Balls in there to help speed up the process. So far I haven't noticed any in there from the test. Its been about 3 weeks. I noticed today that my fish have Ich starting. I ordered the Ich-x from Aquarium Co-Op to help get rid of Ich. I read that I cant put it in the tank with the Prime. My question is what should I do? If I quite using Prime and the ammonia spikes my fish will die. I have Mollies, Tetras, and Mystery Snails in the 20 gallon tank.
  7. Help .. any experience with these? I added 4 of these to my 7.5 gallon tab and the water got very cloudy even thou I put then deep in the substrate , Then I read other reviews and saw that it is a common thing that the water get cloudy and a lot of angry reviews but no one said how to fix and if it will be fixed ? anyone try those? did I ruin my water ?
  8. I just converted my 60 gallon aquarium over from fake plants to live plants of the plants start to melt back will it cause a ammonia spike my other tanks I started them off with plants before adding fish I am just a little worried
  9. Hello, I have a 60-gallon tank, running for two years with a: 1) canister filter, 2) large sponge filter, 3) and a Ziss Bubble Bio Moving Bed Filter. I want to move the Ziss Bubble Bio Moving Bed Filter to another tank. If I take the Ziss Bubble Bio Moving Bed Filter out of my 60-gallon tank will it have an ammonia spike? Happy New Year Tony
  10. When I first started the tank the ammonia was low but now spiked into the green zone. I used AmmoLoc on it a few times and Fresh Start water conditioner. I had heard that AmmoLoc does NOT lower the ammonia READING even though it is lowering the amonia. Is that right? I changed 50 percent of the water and tested it and it is still ammonia in the green zone. Does AmmoniaLoc not indicate the right level after using it? This is a bare bottom tank with a medium sponge filter and an AquaClear filter running. How can I lower the ammonia and be able to get a correct reading when I manually check for ammonia? Someone mentioned using sea shell sand?
  11. Has anyone used this? I always seem to get ammonia spikes in my quarentine tank even with 2 sponge filters that are in other tanks when its not in use. Im wondering if adding a bit of this to a hob will help next time.
  12. Kind of long but any help is greatly appreciated....🙏🏼 55 gallon Ammonia was .25-.5 and still is .25 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 5.0 Ph 7.4 I had an ammonia spike. (I’m doing water changes and have added prime) A couple weeks ago my canister filter started leaking. I had to use my hang on back filter until I received the part to fix my canister. Once the part came I hooked my canister back up but I think I lost some beneficial bacteria in the process even though I put my sponges in the hang on back filter and the rest of the media inside the aquarium. The hang on back filter was a topfin 60. It didn’t move my water as well and my water started to develop an odor which it never had before. I have added charcoal and I've done a water change yesterday and today. Today I used some stress coat and prime. Yesterday after the water change they all shed their slime coats. They were twitching and shaking their heads(today too after water change). Today I noticed the red streaks, shown in the pics with arrows, which weren’t visible before. The red streaks are in dorsal and anal fins of the 2 koi’s too. The angel in pics #4-6 is looking white on top it’s head. I circled those areas. The 2 koi’s fins have also started to look cloudy/milky when they were completely clear a couple days ago. They are still eating. Is this just ammonia causing all the issues or is there more I need to be treating?? Septicemia, Columnaris, HITH? What do I do to save my fish? 🥺 white areas circled- not fuzzy or cottony, doesn’t look dented or like a crater either...
  13. Mr. Fish has an early case of dropsy. Using only a bit of epsom salt and kanaplex as directed. Have had tank cycled with ZERO issues for a year. (ie ammonia always has been 0, nitrites 0, nitrates 20 - 40 (only around 40 a few times), PH always 8.2 (high I know but stable) with same values as recent as 3 days ago. Nitrates were a bit higher (30). I just did first dose of Kanaplex yesterday. I tested the water tonight (as I have been every few days lately due to his initial inactivity) and for the first time ever Ammonia is reading 0.25-0.35 ish. Nitrites 0 Nitrates 20. PH 8.2 All parameters are the same except Ammonia. I changed 25% of water a couple of hours prior to yesterday's Kanaplex dose. Same filter media in place as has been (sponges - several). No carbon. No UV. Temp at 70-72. I found a forum online with a fella that had an immediate 1.0 ammonia reading after kanaplex and he emailed seachem. (using API master as well) He copied their reply several days later stating that lab folks confirmed kanaplex CAN give a false reading for ammonia. I'm wondering if it simply killed off my good bacteria or do I trust this may be a false reading. So - next dose due tomorrow after a 25% water change, and I'm wondering this: 1. Do I risk another dose or stop? 2. Can I add some 'safe start' BB or will the meds simply go to work on that vs the issue at hand?? 3. And would safe start help fast enough IF ammonia spikes again or higher? 4. Is it possible or has anyone experienced kanaplex giving a false reading? 5. Is there any thoughts or ways to confirm false reading vs an actual cycle crash? Also, I am in Canada so access to most of what I'd like to have on hand is slow or impossible. API has an ammo-lock but haven't read reviews or details to know much about how helpful that will be. Plus I dislike adding much more. For water treatment, I use API Stress Coat +, but thankfully our well water shows 0 for anything concerning. I compare my tap water to my tank often and not a lot of difference shows. Appreciate any ideas or thoughts. I'm on NO sleep (fish watch) so could be missing something super obvious.
  14. I have a 15 gallon tank with 12 salt and pepper corydoras and 6 white cloud minnows, that's been up and running for 3 months, finished cycling 2 months ago. Yesterday I noticed my fish acting weird so I did a water test and it returned 8ppm ammonia, up from 0.25ppm 4 days ago, after which I did a 50% water change. I immediately did an 80% water change, got 0 ammonia readings. Also tested my tap water, which returned 0.25ppm ammonia. I tested the water this morning, 0.25ppm ammonia, did a 10% water change, 5 hours later I tested the water and it returned 4ppm!. What's going on? Quick answers: For the last 4 days I've been giving 1 catfish pellet and one small pinch of flake food, skipping two days. I fed one single catfish pellet before going to bed last night and haven't fed them since I don't think there is anything rotting in the tank, I haven't been able to count all 12 corydoras but I removed all of my plants and scape yesterday and didn't see any corpses. This doesn't rule out the possibility of one buried in the substrate. Last time I counted 12 was last week Doesn't appear to be a cycle crash; my ntirates are up 5ppm from 0ppm this morning Yes, it was cycled. Yes it has lots of plants, including anacharis I added 5ml of profito fertiliser within the last week I've been adding seachem with the water changes in order to keep the ammonia at bay but if anyone has any suggestions I am desperate. The "nuclear option" is to remove literally everything from the tank, put the sponge filter in a bag with tank water, drip acclimate the fish to fresh, dechlorinated tap water, and add everything back in.
  15. Hello everyone, I am having issues with my ammonia. My ammonia has been spiked for about two weeks now and I can’t figure out why. I have done 10% water changes, 25% water changes and 50% water changes. I have also gone a couple of days without feeding. I’ve been using prime, stress coat and fritzzyme 7. Nothing seems to be breaking it down. My 29 gallon tank is stocked with A hillstream loach, upside down catfish, 6 checkered board barbs, and 5 zebra danios. I have a HOB filter and a sponge filter. I also have 7 live plants. My tank has been established since 8/26/2020. My water levels are: ph 6.8 ammonia is between 4.0 ppm-8.0 ppm nitrite 0 nitrate 20 any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you! Sincerely, Adam
  16. Hey guys, I hadn’t been monitoring my tanks properly for awhile, except for sporadically. When setting up for a new tank, I was motivated to start monitoring all tanks and discovered an ammonia spike in my oldest tank. Occupants showed no signs of distress. Tank is 2.5 gallons and contains a Betta and mystery snail. Betta was added in May and snail was added Oct 6. I used to check tank daily and parameters never really changed as long as I did weekly 50% water changes, parameters didn’t change after adding snail. Oct 28: ammonia 2.0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0. Did 75% water change and brought ammonia down to 1.0 Oct 29: ammonia 1.0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0. Did 75% water change and brought ammonia down to 0.5 Oct 30: ammonia 2.0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0. Did 75% water change and brought ammonia down to 1.0 Oct 31: ammonia 1.0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0. I’m going to assume something bad happened to my good bacteria. Any recommendations on how I should handle this? I have no tank to move the guys to as new tank is still cycling and other tank has stupid aggressive betta already in it.
  17. Hi there, I recently upgraded my aquarium to a 50 gallon for my existing butterfly telescope with an external filter so I could get him some friends and keep him separate from the invertebrates in the original tank for ease of using medications. I did a fishless cycle of the tank using some bio-media from my existing tank and by adding plants to the aquarium + nite-out and I have been testing with an API kit. Before adding my telescope the levels were 0 for ammonia and nitrite and 10 for nitrate. I added my fish and a few days later I was still reading zero ammonia and nitrite for several readings. After adding two more goldfish (a ranchu and an oranda) the tank was initially cycling fine but a couple of days later I got an ammonia spike of 1.0ppm, 0 nitrite and 10-20 nitrates before I could dose the new fish with prazi or salt as a precaution. (I don't have access to a quarantine tank.) I have been doing daily tests with 50-60% water changes using Seachem Prime to bind the ammonia. I also have not fed the fish to try and get it under control and have checked for any rotting plants. After 2-3d the ammonia decreased to 0.25ppm but there is still no nitrite??? Nitrates have continually been between 10-20 before water changes. I felt bad for the fish and gave them a really small amount of food, checked the ammonia today and it's increased to 0.5ppm, still no nitrite. Meanwhile some of the fish have been rubbing on the sand and I have noticed some red veins visible in the fins. Ideally I'd like to remove the plants and do a salt treatment but I'm worried this could set back the tank cycling even further. I've dosed them with praziquantel this evening and added an airstone but I'm just not 100% sure what to do next....any suggestions would be highly welcome!
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