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anewbie

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Everything posted by anewbie

  1. anewbie
    I would consider a 50B - which is the same dimension as a 40B but 19 inch tall instead of 16.... The specific reason for this suggestion is that a tank with more width has advantages - alternative there is a 75 which is 48 x 18 x 21 (l,w,h). A tank with 12 inch width is (imho) a bit confining esp when they get older.
  2. anewbie
    Not really an expert on barbs but i would double check if the cherry would nip the gourmi or betta. I forget - some of the barbs are very peaceful and some are famous at nipping. -
  3. anewbie
    PSO loves to grow above the water line so if you have no jumpers let it grow out of the tank. Also it will produce a rather nice wildflower type bloom that last a good 3 weeks. I *think* you can actually pot it and grow as a pure terrestrial plant. It also seems to like light so the more the merrier. - I have modestly soft water - gh 7 kh 3
  4. anewbie
    Yesterday i replaced the substrate in one of my 29. The old stuff had gotten foul and was producing a lot of gas - still a bit of a mess but will give it a couple of days to settle before cleaning up. Everyone has settle back in but the kuhli who haven't calmed down yet: Tank is well established - about 18 months old well - before i replaced the substrate. The new stuff is a bit coarser so hopefully it will breath better. Gotta tell you those dwarf lilies develop massive root systems - put my sword plants to shame.
  5. anewbie
    Thank you for your comments. I can't give a hatch rate of the dish i linked but i can say that egg shell are not an issue because the bbs swim into the strainer - also a tiny pinch of eggs (about 1/6 of the scoup they provide) will produce more than enough bbs for 50 angel frys for the useful life (approx 2 1/2 days) of the bbs. Naturally if you put the bbs in the cooler it will last longer. The eggs include with the dish would likely last a year but of course it depends what you are feeding and how often - i was just using it to raise angel frys. The only advantage I see with the ziss is if you want to mass hatch bbs - not sure how long the bbs last in the cooler but i prefer to use fresh ones myself.
  6. anewbie
    It isn't really a vote - if you have used both then you should share your experience... as to why one works better than the other.
  7. anewbie
    If you are hatching bbs for frys I would recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079C6BN2B It has serveral advantages - you don't have to sep the bbs from the eggs; it produce plenty of bbs for a set of frys from one or two parents; it is easy to use. The thing is that the ziss unit looks much larger and designed for raising adult brine shrimp (which are too large for the frys) also you have to sep the shrimp from the eggs which mean you have to strain them.
  8. anewbie
    fyi: ppi is pores per inch.
  9. anewbie
    I was really happy when i took the effort to raise my baby angels. They look so funky as kids compare to adults:
  10. anewbie
    Depends - if you are putting it in the basement with concrete floor - sure go for it - if you are putting it in the living room will a catastrophic leak can cause $20,000 in water damage well.... why risk it ?
  11. anewbie
    Take a swim with your fishes !
  12. anewbie
    You can but it won't help much. I'm not sure why you think adding matrix will increase your nitrate. If you have 0 ammonia and nitrite then you've used up all the material required to produce nitrate....
  13. anewbie
    The prudent thing is to not get the cory but changes are pretty good things would be fine. Cory don't like confrontation so the smallest amount of poking by the rams will send them on their way. I tend to leave the room lights on when they breed so there is a little bit of incident light in the tank (i have dimable recess lighting in the room). One concern you should consider is which species of albino cory you purchase (there are several) as some can't handle the heat. Rams breed best with soft water (~70tds or lower) and the frys are quite small so you will need to consider how you will feed them...
  14. anewbie
    When people talk coarse and fine sponge it would be helpful to talk in terms of ppi - to remove ambiguity. I presume 20ppi would be fine - 30ppi is not too bad but most folks would consider that fine. I would think 10ppi would be too coarse for most people but these are my presumptions....
  15. anewbie
    The brown holes are typically potassium deficiency. Also for many of the micro nutrients a bit too much won't cause any harm (obviously an extreme overdose is bad for the fishes but they won't harm the plants or cause algae growth).
  16. anewbie
    I'm not an expert but i would check the following - if the java fern is planted too deep (the rhizome has to be above the substrate). Also java fern does have problems with too much light and given that it is a 3 gallon tank is it possible the light is too bright ?
  17. anewbie
    One of my mystery snails crawled from 3 rooms away to the fridge and then sat there until i put it back in the tank. I had a kili fish mysterously show up in a tank one day (probably from an egg on a new plant) My angels strongly object to my cleaning their tank at times and have no problem expressing this displeasure with a nasty bite. The first time it happened well it caught me a bit off guard.
  18. anewbie
    I would think after the first year they will be room constrained. A full size discus can get up to 8 inches which doesn't leave a lot of room in a 40B due to lack of height. Also you said your water is 'perfect' but that seems a novice explanation of the quality of your water. There are a lot of factors beyond nitrate, nitrite and ammonia that determines the quality of the water and therefore i would question the 'perfect' nature of your water. Having said that it might turn out fine.
  19. anewbie
    Sounds like you have a standard 29. I think in the inexpensive department the common options are beamworks, hygger 957, finnex, fluval aqusavy (about 2x expensive). If you are willing to spend $$$ I'd recommend chihiros wrgb 2 or alternatively fluval 3.0. For medium light plants in a low tech tank I think the finnex, beamworks, hygger 957, ... will work fine and these lights are a lot less expensive - ~$50 vs $200.... From readings these inexpensive light have quality control issues and sometimes you will get a dud so buy from a place where it can be exchange or returned. The fluval 3.0 have a history of being extremely reliable but they are quite expensive for what they offer. I personally have wrgb2, fluvals and onf flat+ (not a good for for a 30 inch tank). I played with the less expensive fluvals and have not liked them - this is a visual thing as they lack the fuller spectrum range of the 3.0 but i prefer wrgb 2 over the 3.0 - again this is a visual thing though the wrgb 2 is also abut 1.5 brighter which works well on my 120.
  20. anewbie
    I would not raise the ph with baking soda - it is kind of pointless as long as the ph is above 6. Adding buffering maybe but not in the tank - the fishes don't like sudden changes in most cases (esp sa fishes which love soft acidic water) and adding baking soda to the tank has the potential to shock the fishes.
  21. anewbie
    They can but if it is truely getting darker the problem is more likely with the power regulator (the part that changes the ac current to dc current). Unless it is really dim i wouldn't worry about it too much given your plants as they all will grow in next to no light.... However it might be that your light will eventually need to be replaced. On the bright side (pun intended) there are a lot of options available now that are not terribly expensive including an updated model of the beamsworth.
  22. anewbie
    Flow is not likely an issue with hornworth - flow is a problem for stuff like frogbit, water lettuce and similar. I've found hornworth to be rather picky - as a simple example I have two 29 side by side. They have different substrate and fish population but otherwise identical. In one tank hornworth grows without bound to the point of being annoying and throwing away yards of the stuff weekly - in the other tank - it refuses to grow and slowly melts into nothing.... - I will say that hornworth seems to do better in a mature tank and one with slightly elevated nitrate level.
  23. anewbie
    I would be more concern about the change in kh than ph and if kh is changing than ph would likely follow. Also i would test your tap as a baseline. Last but least I would try the API liquid test for kh. Those liquid are a pia but they tend to be more reliable.
  24. anewbie

    Angelfish help

    anewbie replied to adamh's topic in Diseases

    How long have they been in the tank ? That hardness is a bit on the extreme level for angels - i'm not an expert as to just how hard the water can be for angelfish but it is certainly far harder than my tanks which are gh 7 kh 3. - Yea i would start with the water change but a bit concern something in the water is making them unhappy...
  25. anewbie
    Did you add anything recent to the tank or did things go on as normal for years and years and suddenly they started flashing out of the blue? I know i had a yoyo that use to have an itch and would scratch itself for while - but after a period it just stopped and I haven't seen him do it for at least 6 months. While it could be a parasite as others mentioned it could be well just a change in water condition or decaying decoration that is irritating them.
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