anewbie

The general rule is that honey gourami should be kept in a group (i frequently see 3 to 5). dwarf gourami are very different and are best kept alone.

I think the heat will do more damage than good. I would try kordon rid-ick in a pail. But first make sure that they actually have ick - there is a similar disease that people frequently confused with ick.

I'm planning two builds of around 400 gallons and these are my desired tank. One will be very similar to my 120 (attached) but larger. I.e, stocking will be some number angels, tetra (not cardinals as seen i the picture since they are terrified of the angels), loaches, cory and pleco. The specific numbers will probably change but approx the following: 40 to 50 black neon tetra 40 to 50 lemon tetra 10 to 15 angelfishes 4 electric blue acara (maybe might eat black neon) 10 clown loaches 6 yoyo loaches (left over not buying more) 10 to 20 zebra loaches (a wonderful fish) some cory - probably eques and around 10 to 20. 5 sae 8 L 204 2 lemon bn a few other random pleco - probably a couple of blue phantom - I'll probably adjust the final numbers quite a bit so take it with a grain of salt - Another build i am considering will be a warmer tank (82-84) and will have 5 to 10 winemillere geo 5 to 10 threadfin acara 10 to 20 rams (mostly gold but some gbr and electric blue) 30 to 50 cardinal tetra 10 to 30 sterbai cory - Anyway i still have about 12 months from my build but those are my current thoughts. The 120 i mentioned above:

Keep an eye on the krib if you get one they can sometime be a bit aggressive to other bottom dwellers. Most kribs will hang out in the lower region of the tanks - mine rarely go above 5 inches of a 24 inch tall tank....

Who is your cell provider ? There is no such thing as a 4g and 5g sim. The sim card authorized the phone to the wireless network. The phone hardware determines if it can use 5g network. I've used the same sim card in my current phone as my old phone and the old phone before that old phone. As long as the sim card is the correct size that is all that matters.

It was a 12 inch black box from nilgoc. This is a super bright light around 400 par at the bottom of the tank. It was a test. I've now changed the light (about a week ago) to a 12 inch wrgb2 and should probably take an updated picture. The reason you are seeing the 'psychedelic' colours is due the coarsness of the led in the black box and proxmity to the tank (sitting on top). I've been running tests with different equipment to decide what i want to use a for a 400 gallon tank i will setup next year.

Does anyone know the correct instructions for using przipro ? I'm treating a fish in a 5 gallon pail with approx 2 1/2 gallons of water. I added 1/8 tsp. - Now my question is when do i do a second dosage and when can i do a water change. Do i add a dosage every day or do i wait 3-5 days and then do a water change and add a second dosage if needed ?

There are no clear rules here - a bit depends on the filtration and how clean you keep the water whether it be via water changes or some other method. - As a general rule a 5 gallon tank is a bit small for pygmy but since you already have 3 i would get 2 to 4 more since they do require a larger group. So why is the 5 gallon tank not the best size because - they do like to swim a bit and a 5 is a bit cramp. Most sites recommend a 10 gallon. - As for the 1 inch rule - it is a novice way of guessing how much bioload and space a tank has but it doesn't really work that well as some small fishes have a high bio load, extreme requirement for pure water or are hyper active and need a lot of swimming space and some larger fishes just kind of sit still most of the day doing nothing. - Anyway you have 3 so adding a few more isn't going to make matter worse since the bio load is light and the fishes will be 'happier' to be in a larger group. - You should periodically monitor your nitrate level - maybe once every 6 or 12 weeks just to make sure it doesn't continuously drift higher. If it gets above 40 or so you might consider water changes to bring it back down.

Probably - some would argue the finnex and beamworks are just as good and they are a bit less expensive. You have to go to around $300+ to get the next level above fluval (wrgb2, twinstar 9000). The other approach is using several flood lights - they are like $20 a pop and you would probably want 4. They come at different spectrum include some rgb models. The catch is you would want to hang them but most are either ip66 or ip68 since they are designed to work outside in the rain....

This is my 5 gallon tank. It has measured sub 5 nitrate - probably around 1 or 2 for the past 6 months. Stocking is 6 neon 4 ember 15 mystery snails and some number of shrimps (shrimps aren't doing well in this tank). There are two speculations for low nitratre: anaerobic activity in the substrate and root floaters which grow massive in this tank (my water lettuce are blooming!):

Did you put in a few root tabs around the crypts ?

When they are really young they look like tad-pools:

No - there are two different type - one is the pinto which you pictured and mine is similar - the other is white and it has virtually no green requires higher light and grows much much slower. I have them side by side in my tank and the white for example has put out maybe 1 leaf in the same period that the pinto has put out 7 or 8.

crypt flamingo is a tough one - i had one once but it didn't do well. The pinto anubia - i have a few of those and they grow really fast - very nice plant - i also have a white anubia and it doesn't grow much - not really worth the money since the pinto i have is putting out mostly white leaves with a few dark green ones. Really like that plant - btw if it gets really happy it will send out a few flowers. - I am curious about why you do frequent water changes if the tank is mostly just plants ? Is it to ensure a known amount of fertilizer and is that necessary ?

Yes that is hte one i use. It is a wee bit flimsy so be sure to not force the plastic in any way (it is brittle and people complain of it breaking but mine has not broken in a year usage).

Like wise i put on a prefilter - in my case i have to clean it twice a week - I used a "filter max pre-filter iii"that has a plastic tube that will fit on the injest tube. I know that aquarium coop sells a prefilter sponge but no clue if it fits.

I'm not sure - i don't think you want to add melafix - just agitate the water with an airstone i think and you should expect some of the eggs to fungus - maybe try remove the worse of them with an eye dropper.

Once you start feeding the frys then you will need to do 'daily' water changes. I would not actually change the water per sey I would use a turkey blaster to suck out uneaten food and dead frys and then replace that water - then do a water change a couple of times a week - maybe 30% depending on size of container. The biggest problem is decaying food - and if a few die decaying frys - they frys themselves don't actually produce much waste - just try to not overfeed...

One thing i did want to suggest - is many of the fishes you are mentioning are more common - and there is nothing wrong with that - but if you want to a bit more bold there are 100's of pleco and probably as many tetra that are worth exploring. This doesn't even begin to touch rasbora or rainbow fishes and then there are loaches. For example instead of getting larger cory for a tank - you could get 10 zebra loaches (these are extremely gentle fishes that are not too large - around 3.5 inches long but narrow) - just don't put them with your snails 😉 - Then for tetra i wouldn't know where to begin with alternative suggestions - the only thing to be aware of is the temp they require and there are a few that you don't want near plants as they are big plants eaters but beyond that they come in all shapes and sizes. There are lemon tetra, black neon tetra, congo tetra, redtail hemiodus tetra (which are quite pretty), phantom tetra (black, red, white), blood fin tetra, rummy nose tetra (actually 3 different species are frequently called rummy nose), emperor, flame tetra, blue tetra (another lovely fish if you can find it), rainbow tetra, bucktooth tetra (think mini pirana - definitely not friendly), .... - Well i'm not going to start on rasbora or rainbows though i will mention that my army of kubotai are amusing. - Anyways just some ideas - if you want to experiment. One more picture and then i will go away - i figure pictures might give you some different ideas but maybe they are just annoying:

Hello. I remember you. So i'm not sure if you are asking for alternative stocking or comments on your current stocking. I will say that one thing you are missing is a dwarf cichlid tank. There are some amazing apistogramma to choose from depending on your expert level and your interest. One that I like a lot are nijenssi another are Elizabeth but these are more difficult fishes esp if you intend to breed them. There are easier ones such are Borelli and Hongsoli is somewhere inbetween. For dithers pencil fishes are common with them. If you wish to breed them cory can be a dice roll - the issue is they have to be aggressive enough to protect the eggs but not so aggressive there is an issue. Of course i just mentioned apistogramma - there are tons of other non-apistogramma dwarf cichlid such as rams, acara, and as many words as i can type in a day (ok maybe not that many but at least as many as i would spell correctly). - I've become very fond of pygmy cory and otto and a tank with 20 of each would be amusing but that might not be your style 😉 A 20 long would work for most aspito (just that some are harem and some are strickly m:f so you need to do a bit of understanding before picking). -- As for your current stockings - well it is a personal thing but i've never been in love with large tanks with a single fish - i always want a whole fleet of fishes - but that is a personal thing - this is my 120 to give you an idea: Even when i get a tiny tank (this is a 5 gallon) it ends up a mess: Anyway there are so many species of freshwater fishes and so many species of plants we can mix and match that each tank can be a planted forest with fishes weaving in and out and not share anything in common with the tank next to it.

they are likely ram eggs - the other fishes you mentioned generally lay eggs by scattering them as they swim; the honey being gourami will do the bubble nest thing. - Were the rams guarding that spot when you netted them? If you want to hatch them you should put them in a warm container (keep around 82-84) and a drop of methane blue (if you don't have it then don't order it) and bubbler to help prevent fungus. After the new born hatch they will be wrigglers and can't swim for a couple of days - then they will start swimming but still have small egg sacks. After about 24 hours the egg sacks will be exhausted and they will be ready for feeding. When you feed them it is critical to remove any uneaten food with an eye dropper or turkey blaster to prevent decay and produciton of ammonia. They should be under fed not over fed but fed 4 to 6 times a day. What to feed them is tricky - live food is best the first week or two because the movement of the food is what trigger them to chase it - they are tiny so the newest hatched bbs might work but vinegar eels are a bit smaller. After a week or two they will be plenty big for eating bbs. Some people can get them to eat gold pearl ( a very fine grain food) or hiraki first bite. Remember don't let that uneaten food decay - it will kill them - remove it.

When you start bbs (or for that matter now) you could use an eye dropper or turkey blaster to remove the uneaten food before it decays. Also you will need to feed them 4 or 5 times a day for the first week or two - just a tiny pinch (better to underfeed than over feed as long as you feed frequently). The problem with decaying food is it will produce small amount of ammonia which can be deadly to the frys. That is one reason most breeders use bare bottom tank or smaller breeder containers (marina has some really nice one) - so it is easy to vacuum out debris. Your fry container is larger which helps but still the small amount of impurities from decaying food is probably the common cause of ram fry death.

I see you need some sort of smart multi-way valve. I think such a thing exist - not sure if it would be cost effective. They certainly exist with timers for sprinklers. - Btw they do have kasa smart power strips with multiple plugs if that helps at all.

If you want caribsea substrate petsmart mail order has some of the best prices for 50lb bags.

You could use a smart socket and then use your phone as the 'remote' switch. I've used kasa smart plug and they seem to work well (i use them as timers for my co2).