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About Me

Found 16 results

  1. Morning nerms! So this morning I noticed two of my four mollies in my 37g community have what my initial assessment/panic seemed to be some kind of ich or fungal infection that looks like small gray/translucent bumps on the side of body; however they are not small white specks like ich, they are semi-random but looks more like their natural slime coat color, non-uniform in size. No other fish in this tank (barbs, kuhlis, bn pleco, betta) show any similar signs of potential illness/stress at this time. I isolated the fish for now in quarantine but then I thought to check temperature. I live in FL and we dropped from 70 to 32 F in 24 hours outside. When I checked my thermometer it just so happens that this tank’s heater somehow was slightly unplugged and therefore tank temperature crashed from 80-81 down to 65 in a span of 10hours while I was at work. Would a sudden temperature crash potentially cause the mollies to rapidly develop these sortof spots as a response to stress? I am trying to not panic and overtreat a problem/disease that isn’t actually hurting present. The tank is well-seasoned, no new fish in 6 months, no deaths, and no new objects/plants have been introduced in over a month except some catappa leaves a few weeks ago. Parameters reading 0 ammonia / 0 nitrite / 40-60 nitrate. The fish I isolated are not showing any signs of discomfort. I have ich-x and paracleanse on hand but am hesitant to dose. Because the spots are not classic white and the mollies are dalmatian/mutt grey it is hard to get a clear picture. Thanks for any assistance.
  2. So I'm fairly new to the fish keeping world. Got my fish 6 months ago. I'm always fussing or worried about them. Does this fade with confidence?
  3. Hi all, I have a 10 gallon aquarium with several fish (female betta, killifish, 6 harlequin rasboras, 2 kuhli loaches). I got the first kuhli about a month ago after seeing the aquarium co-op video about how they are bottom feeders and do well with bettas and are relatively easy to care for. It’s pretty thin and tiny. I knew they are nocturnal and liked to hide, and there is a house/castle structure that offers a decent sized dark space for them to hide in that also has ridges along the inside rim they can hide in. I noticed the little one burrows into my gravel, which I didn’t even know they did (my fault for not doing my research but I thought they just needed hiding places). The gravel is not small, but not huge. It’s relatively smooth edged. Anyway, I went and got a second loach yesterday after reading they might do better if there’s more than 1 (and I know aquarium coop mentioned they can be in 10 gallon tanks). It’s thicker than my first one and he can’t seem to burrow into the bigger gravel yet (it’s only been 24 hours and I think the first one didn’t burrow for a couple days). I researched and I am now seeing they do better with fine gravel or sand. Now I feel guilty that I am causing them (especially the new one if he can’t ever get to burrow) unneeded stress or possible injury. this is the gravel: https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/imagitarium-snowy-river-aquarium-gravel and this tank has been established for a year now. Like I said the edges are not really jagged, maybe even smoother than the picture in the link provided as it’s been in the tank and vacuumed and moved around for a year. Anyway, sorry for the long post, but should I try to replace the gravel even though I have other fish in there, hope the kuhlis do ok (especially the new one since he can’t seem to burrow yet, and maybe he’s too thick to do so), or try to donate the kuhlis to an experienced store that will take them? 😞 thanks in advance, I also attached a pic of the actual gravel in my tank
  4. Hey, I just got that betta yesterday. I actually saw her a week before the purchase and she had a very dark blue color. A week after, she was still very active, and she was doing great compared to other bettas on the show wall, so I picked her. The moment the worker took her out she lost all color, I assume due to stress, which I guess is normal. My tank is planted and I've made sure it's cycled. It has some hiding places so I was hoping she will color back up pretty fast. She did get some color back but she gets stressed again every few minutes and goes back to her stress stripes coloration. She's very active and was very curious, exploring her new tank when I put her in. Her only tank mates are 4 shrimp that were there from before, and 1 Otto I got along with her. A few hours later, she began acting strange. She started hitting her side against the plants and walls. I waited overnight and she is still doing that so I decided to try and treat with Maracyn and I ordered Fritz ParaCleanse as well (sadly, this item is no where to be found here in Israel so I had to order it online, and it might take up to 2 weeks to get here). Hopefully this either passes by itself, or the Maracyn helps that. I don't see any signs of Ich, or fungus so maybe it's something I'm not yet familiar with. She is not used to feeding yet, but I did manage to get her to eat at least a bit of flake food. Water parameters: pH - 7.2 Nitrates - 20 Hardness - says 400 mg/L on my test strips Nitrite - 0 Ammonia - 0 Water Temperature - 25C Tank is a 10gal. I wonder if anyone else has had a similar experience. What would you do next?
  5. My poor Honey Gourami has been pacing almost non-stop since I brought him home 3 weeks ago. Yesterday, I couldn't take it anymore and decided to get him a friend. SUCESS!!! The boys have been together nearly 24 hrs and the pacing stopped the minute I placed the bag in the tank. The aquarium is peaceful and it's a lot of fun watching them together. Phew! Now I think I need to get friend for my daughter's single boy.... 😬
  6. My broad leaf Bolbitis leaves have roots and tiny baby plants growing on them. I've heard this is from stress - these are new plants that I've had about a month. So I guess I'm asking if this means the adult plants are going to die? How should I handle the baby plants?
  7. I had 7 Black Skirted Tetras for several several years. One developed what I thought was fin rot. I put all the tetras in a 10 gallon hospital tank. I tried everything but the fin didn’t get better or worse. They stayed in the hospital for months. One morning 5 were dead and already decaying. The 2 remaining are perfectly healthy. I’m scared to add them back to the community even after 2 months. Now do I need to get more so there will be a school and less stressed. I feel bad if I don’t but I’m not sure if I want tetras for the rest of my life but hate to give them away since I’ve had them for a long time.
  8. I set up a 40 breeder without a heater for fancy goldfish. I put Seachem cichlid substrate in and some driftwood Anubias, crypts and moss balls and a large sponge filter from an established tank. I also put some of the mulmy water from the same sponge when I cleaned it in aquarium water. And some ramshorn snails. The tank was set up for a couple of weeks before I put the fish in. The fish had been in a ten gallon quarantine tank for those two weeks and saw no signs of disease or stress. Parameters in the big tank seemed to be stable. They seemed to be doing fine for about four weeks before I noticed that the black moor seemed to have a cloudy film developing fairly evenly over his body but he still eats and is acting fine. About the same time a calico fantail started acting lethargic and was not eating. I checked water parameters: and nitrates 20ppm nitrites at 1.0 chlorine 0 gh 150 kh 120 ph 7.2 But because of the cold snap the temperature in the aquarium has lingered at 50 degrees because there is a draft from a door next to the tank. (Apparently we need to put a better seal around the door.) Because the little fantail was not eating I put her in the quarantine tank that they had been in. And added salt. Seeing no outward symptoms I wondered if the cold temps made her susceptible to a parasite or something. She died the next day. She had a lot of clear mucous especially on one side around the gill area. It was kind of thick and covered the area of about a dime. She was about two inches long. I did a 20 percent water change on the big tank and set the heater on low to try to bump the temperature up to 70. I kept an eye on the temperature for most of the day but over the supper hours I had to do other things and then when I looked at the tank the lid was all steamed up and the thermometer read that it was above eighty (!!!) This happened about a week ago. I did a partial water change to bring the temps down a bit. The fish seemed OK. I threw the heater away and bought a better one. This one is keeping the temperature in the low to mid 70s. The black moor looks blacker now. But now my biggest and favorite Oranda is acting just like the fantail did. No visible symptoms. Sits on the bottom or floats on the top and doesn’t eat. What should I do for her? Oh and I also added an Aquaclear filter with sponge and Purigen.
  9. Hey all, I got my new betta today and it's been glass surfing for the past 7 hours. My lfs imports bettas from Thailand and Indonesia, and they only had the one I got for about a week. I was wondering how long it took for your bettas to fully settle in, and if this is abnormal. I'm a bit worried about the little one. - Parameters are good, I obtained cycled media from a local facebook group member and have been testing every day in the days before getting the betta. - Temp is at 78. - I have 3 little terracotta pots on the bottom, I've got the light off, and there's live plants but they look kind of decrepit right now because I just planted all the plants.
  10. Have been wanting to do this for years I want to start breeding my Poly Ornates and Poly T's I want to bring a local source to Wisconsin. I have done an almost obsessive amount of research on where they originally are from and what sparks their mood to breed. Want to gather as much info as I can though. So I want to reach out to anyone who has personal experience doing such a project would love some feed back!!!
  11. I have seen multiple pictures of rainbowfish online, all of which have what I thought was a stress stripe when it was on mine. I wanted to know if this is a stress bar and if it is why are they so prone to stress? And if it isn't, why is it that my rainbowfish stripes will come and go, but will usually be visibile. Heres an example: I have noticed on my rainbows that there colors fade when they display this stripe (which is what I thought a stress sign), and I saw from another forum member today the same thing! I have also kept threadfin rainbows and they didn't have any of that stripe. I am wondering if its just usually on "bigger" rainbow species. Maybe its just the Rainbow Fish genetics?
  12. So one of my female guppies just had fry!!! I wanted to leave them in the tank but I don’t know if they will survive, I have a breeder net but it is pretty big for a 5.5 gallon tank. Also when should I transfer my guppies to my empty 10 gallon. Also for some reason one looks like it has been bitten but it doesent look like fin rot. Thanks, Taco Playz
  13. My female Angel Fish has a tumor on her gill. My research seems to indicate that causes for tumors are hard to diagnose other than thyroid tumors. From the pictures of thyroid tumors I don't think this is what it is. I have watched tumor removals on The Fish Doctors channel. Fish Vets are hard to come by. Anyone have any experience? How long do you think we have? Anything I can do to help her out?
  14. I am excited to post my introduction on the AQC forums. Hello to all the nice fish people I have met in previous chats on youtube and elsewhere! Also hello to any mean fish people who would like to become nicer fish people by observing this community's behavior. 😉 I'm pretty new to the 'online fish stuff' cyberfold but one of the reasons I stuck around was not so much because of the interactions I had with the community, but the interactions I observed other people having within the community (on youtube livechats at least). I saw a naturally tolerant focused space, willing to nourish the collective knowledge of the people who participate in it. This is good, and rare. Maybe it's because there is a curated set of topics that are 'safe' lest you warm up the ban hammer. "Talk fishy stuff or go home" seems to be a bit of wisdom passed around here. I like these things, and am a bit nervous to see what happens too late at night on the Off Topic section, and other areas on the "fringe of fish". But this also brings me to the point of saying hi, sharing some text, and hoping to offset any reduction in the density of helpful information in this brave new form of a fish forum. I suppose the best way to convey this is with a story... There is a high-volume tank setup using multiple IBC totes in my back yard. These are typically used in aquaponics to hold larger volumes of water than fish tanks. Mainly because people who eat the fish don't want to watch them the same way as people who love them as pets. But also, Imagine the cost of a 1155 gallon fish tank... Ouch. I should also say for character purposes that I land in the middle between pet and food. I think its perfectly acceptable to love and care for the food that you eat, so that it can be the best food it can be. The intended philosophy of the setup is "balanced systems enhance each other". Aquaponics seemed like a great place to start with that kind of thinking, so that's why I have big plastic things in my back yard instead of traditional tanks. I'll go into the system details in another post. I wanted to focus on some terrible disasters I have managed to create for myself and pass around some information that, well, would have helpful had I learned it before I had to learn it this way. The base things about my setup to know for context for now: Some edible above-water plants (lettuce, herbs, etc) Greenwater (very green) Daphnia Fancy guppies Blue nile tilapia White nile tilapia Guppy grass Water lettuce Ramshorn snails Pond "pest" snails Scuds Detritus worms ..Whatever other water critters the wind blows in. All the trouble started when I thought I was being clever. My friend gave me his old swimming pool. It was one of those Walmart specials, 800 gallons or so. I couldn't pass up all that free tank real estate! I should have. I called the pool my new "fish grow out tank" and was impressed with myself. The next problem was when the fish I was growing out had babies. It happened in what felt like a week of giving them all that extra room. Thousands of fry swimming around two or three distinct spots in the pool. I imagine three mother tilapia were keeping their distance from each other. Again, green water so I have no idea what it looks like 'in the tank' beyond an inch or two of water depth. The green water was good for the fry as it protected them from being excessively eaten/seen by other larger fish. The fry also seemed to eat the little bits in the green water, as their poop was mostly green. When the fry were big enough, I netted them out carefully and put them in one of the open totes to raise them to be bigger fish. -- You can't catch all the fry this way... So I left some snacks for the bigger fish. Crisis averted! Breeder skillz unlocked! First successful brood making it out of the tank and living. Life was good for a few weeks. The pool ring on top pops one night. Waste and refill 300 gallons of water, but no losses of fish etc. I water change by watering my 'normal garden', but that isn't a huge space compared to the water volume. Patch the inflatable pool part with aquarium silicone, fill in water as normal: straight from the garden hose, but trickled so as to blend in with the other thousand+ gallons. Repeat holes in the pool top. Three or four times. It happens at night a lot... what is going on? Finally figure out that the tilapia are popping the inflatable pool top. Dangit! Need to think of new outgrow tank solution soon so I don't keep waking up to water everywhere in the backyard. Thinking on it. ... weeks pass. Pool pops again. *sigh* Patch the pool but this time its different. The plastic is very very brittle. I'm surprised it hadn't given out completely already. It was either some complex long reaction with the aquarium silicone and this particular plastic or the intense Arizona sunlight, but the popped pool was pooped. I decided I should move the tilapia from the pool back to the IBC totes. Again, thinking I was clever, this would give me a chance to sort them in order of small, medium, and yum. I ate my first two fish from my setup. This is is a golden highlight, despite my epic failures I will get to soon and minor frustrations I have omitted, this was a milestone. I noticed the plants were doing well, but not as well as they had been... Ok, so test. PH AM: 6.5 PM: 7.5 Nitrates: 160+ Nitrites: 0.5 Ammonia: "Ideal" Seems fine for a system that wants excessive amounts of nitrates for plant growth, and a high PH (acidic) in the morning for optimum nutrient exchange with the plants. (In traditional indoor aquariums the nitrates would be much lower) Hmm, ok. After some time nitrate levels went up even though the plants weren't growing. My test needs adjustment... but how. Oh, a good number of unexpected fry, now weeks later and larger had made their way into every possible container and were nibbling down the roots of my plants! There is no test strip for this. The larger fish seemed to leave the roots alone, but the little ones loved it to the point of distressing the plants. Plants have trouble growing without roots. Problem identified. While netting out the smaller fish back into the 'small fish tank' I noticed the bigger fish looked 'slow'. Not unhappy, they had clear eyes, were eating, etc. Just a little 'lackluster' maybe. Ill keep an eye on it... I figured that they were still unhappy from their move from 800 gallons to 350 gallons (over three totes). There was enough space between each fish and the gallonage math I did made sense to me... But a mistake I made is not considering how the fish felt i think. Call it the farmer's forgetfulness, but these things just got a super downgrade on their living space collectively. One person only needs so much space to live mathematically, but imagine 200 people accustomed to a large space being cramped into a three-story apartment building where not only was their space smaller, but now their paths cross with another person every time they look around. Even the green water that was getting greener and greener was no help to relax them from seeing each other. But I wasn't really aware of how bad this would get. As far as I thought, the plant roots would grow now, the plants would 'pick up the slack' and the system would normalize all 'aquaponics wizard' style. Fish are eating less now. I notice a bit or two of uneaten food. Very strange, they usually eat it all, or at least there isn't enough left over that the snails don't take care of... So this means that even with the snails there is now excess food. Hmm... Soon it was clear the fish were eating abnormally less. At this point I start to realize green water is good, but I need to see my fish for other reasons -- like health. They were still coming to the surface to eat, but were not excited to eat even though I knew they weren't eating a lot. As a last hope of something good, I thought maybe females were not eating because they were holding eggs in their mouth and that would mean they eat less... That story let me sleep comfortably at least. I notice a fish with a cloudy eye swimming. Can't catch him, but saw him once or twice over a day. Test the water. PH AM: 6 PM: 8 Nitrates: 80+ Nitrites: 0 Ammonia: "safe" The PH is swinging far too wildly. Green water makes your ph swing a lot, kindof like a battery charging and discharging from the sun. In the mornings its acidic and in the evenings its more basic. Tilapia like 8 or even 9. Fish don't like 6, but fish especially don't like 6 then 8 then 6 then 8. The transitions in PH is almost more stressful than being at the "wrong PH" I would say. Given the PH is swinging this wildly, I thought i could help buffer it with some alkaline stuff like baking soda or wonder shell (plug). I did baking soda first, and then failing that a wonder shell. Still didn't stabilize. I had at this point driven up my hardness and alkalinity and nothing changed, which was not supposed to be the case. I could only think that all that green water must have been actually swinging and suspending that PH across the entire tank. That's a lot of energy exchange! It was thinking over this I noticed the green water had what looked like a very very fine green chalk powder in it. "Well at least the green water is doing good..." but I also knew I had to figure out a way to dial it back because it reminded me of smoke in the air. Water PH continues to swing wildly while I wait for my green water clean up team to arrive in the mail -- Daphnia. I kept them inside a 5 gallon bucket that I kept inside the tank. It kept the main daphnia colony safe while keeping the temperature the same as the tank water. I made sure to take in as little water as possible from the shipping water. I drained and strained the daphnia but they were still a little wet putting them in the 5 gallon bucket. When the daphnia came to the surface in the morning I poured more water into the bucket, allowing some daphnia to fall over the brim of the bucket. This way I could preserve and feed a colony inside the bucket while sending daphnia out into the greater wilds of my tank to eat down some of this green water and populate. Ok, multiple things went wrong, but I'm on the right track here. Now to get back on the rails and get the plants growing again. Cloudy eye'd fish has a friend who also has a cloudy eye now and they are swimming funny. "Something is wrong, and getting wronger." Keep testing water, no reduction in the PH swing or other bad news. Eject! Massive water change freakout. I drained probably 400 gallons of water into my yard and slowly let the hose fill it back up over the next two days. I then did this again a few days later. figured if anything, chlorine will be a less-than-ideal antiseptic for the fish and the 800 gallon water change will flush out most of the bad scary things I'm blindly running from by changing water. Green water is a bit more clear now from the water change. About a week later I find a dead fish, stiff. Not dead long, but for sure not alive. I have a little private moment to myself and plant him under the banana tree. I also noticed cloudy eye and his friend got better, or maybe one got better and i just buried the other. Either way, it seems my sick fish count is zero now. A few days later I see three fish swimming funny again, and its the same thing that cloudy eye had caught. I decide to net them out alive and see whats wrong. They were swimming so badly it was easy to catch them in the net. Their eyes are slightly clouded but not puffy. Fins are not damaged like finrot, but have little bloody spots around the base. It looks like it itches. Fish do not like it being touched around their fins, more so than normal. My hunch is bacteria, and some youtube videos loosely confirm that. I'm equipped with a few fancy dip strips, but not a full lab here. Guessing my way through google, I stumble on some really good links that I will share at the end. They didn't reveal the solutions to my problem though... Even more fish are swimming funny, and green water is approaching its previous green-ness at a very fast pace. Daphnia have not taken hold in the system yet. More fish are sick. Then more fish. Then lots of fish, then even more fish. It was a very terrible week for my tanks and I'll spare you the details here, but I was left with about 50 'strong fish' plus a few hundred fingerlings that had grown to the length of a credit card. Strangely none of the bacteria or sickness hurt the younger fish. In my optimism I thought that this could be a system regulation, now all the fish have room, now there is less stress, and I have the strongest fish left. Wrong. Even the strong fish started to get slow now, and I feared the process was about to happen again. It was. I was going to fight it. I realized netting these fish out into a quarantine tank was going to be more of the same stress on them, so decided to dose the whole tank with iodine. ... Which you have to be very very careful with. It will kill a human if they drink it, but it is an antiseptic that well, is within budget. In some far eastern countries they use it in fish farms, but not sure about other regions. So now I am a doctor, ok? (joke) I apply the iodine to the sump tank slowly, a few small squirts every 6 hours or so of daylight. This seemed to go well. I noticed the snails did not like this, and had a small snail die off but nothing larger than weather changes bring. The fish seemed more active, but that was likely due to iodine cleaning the gills. Hopefully it more of a tickly burn, and judging on their swimming it wasn't extreme. Whew... ok, this might be over. Nope. One morning many fish are dead. This time its the small fish, and their symptoms are different. I clean out the group of them. They all appear to be freshly dead, except one young fish that was dead for maybe a day or two longer. Ok, so maybe this is just a fish that died and got others sick? Hmm... Over the next few days a second massive die off happened with this second sickness. The eyes got cloudly but also bulged very far out. Again, turning to the internet I found information linked below for streptococcosis, which seemed to match everything I had seen in the second die off. I begin to fear that my iodine sterilization worked too well, and disrupted the bacterial balance that was preventing even worse things from infecting the fish. As it happens, most of the terribly scary diseases are present in the water already. The outbreaks happen when the fish are vulnerable enough to become infected, or conditions for the bad diseases becomes optimal. Seemed to me that killing off a lot of bacteria with iodine made the conditions more favorable to the bad diseases, but not sure. All I really know is that now my little fish are sick. In what felt like less than a week the outbreak had killed all but a few of my little fish. I'm down to about 20 fish total. The second sickness was far more acute and terrible than the first. Something tells me fish don't get streptococcosis unless there is something terribly terribly wrong with their environment. The daphnia at this point have caught up, and with the reduced fish waste, the green water is looking slightly less green. The remaining fish seem stable and healthy. As the water continues to clear, it becomes brown-ish. I believe this is because the green water ran out of nutrients (fish poop) to sustain itself before the daphnia could consume it all. Hopefully the scuds will eat it now as it falls to the bottom and mixes in with the other muck. In all that, I would like to pass on these points in the context of the story above: When in doubt, test the water. When the water test does not reveal your problem, question your assumptions about why you are testing. Green water makes the PH swing acidic (low) in the morning and basic (high) at night Green water provides an optimal environment for fry, but has other downsides. Visual inspection of fish is required unless there is extreme skill is involved. Large PH swings can stress fish, but some stress is ok. The math for happy-fish-per-gallon only applies if the fish are not previously accustomed to larger volumes. Bacterial infections do not indicate 'lots of bacteria' in the water, but rather that the fish have become stressed enough to become vulnerable. Fingerling fish seem to have a higher tolerance to bacteria and other disease than fry or or adult fish. Reduction in the amount of food eaten is not always bad, but should be seen as a heavy indicator for other sickness. Over-correcting an unbalanced system will catapult fish stress into the danger zone. Be careful of the types of plastic/glues that are used. Some may react in strange ways over time. Just because some information does not reveal a solution to your specific problem does not mean it is bad information. Pregnant humans may want to take caution when fish keeping, as the baby may be vulnerable to certain fish diseases. http://www.fao.org/fi/static-media/MeetingDocuments/TiLV/dec2018/p15.pdf https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2687030/ Finally, I'm happy to answer any questions, or observe any corrections but please direct message me as this is an introduction thread. Feel free to reply with all the hellos, howdys, hi-yas, and other greetings though. 🙂
  15. I've kept individual Bettas before but I'm two weeks into my first betta sorority, 30 gallon tank. I am battling an outbreak of ich with slowly increasing water temperatures (currently 85f), slowly increasing salt (currently 1 tbs/ 2 gallon), and super ick cure. Ph is about 7 and ammonia nitrate nitrite and all very low. I've noticed the Bettas like to hangout by my filter surface skimmer (tidal 55) and look stuck but they swim away easily when offered food. In the picture below I watched the white fish swim up and push the others to make room. I'm wondering if this is normal behavior or something to be conserned about? None of my other Bettas in small (5gallon) individual tanks have ever done this. Thanks for any input.
  16. My betta (Hue) has what I believe are clamped fins. I’ve tried various medications, including the med trio. I had salt in the water at a low amount (less than a teaspoon per gallon) for awhile but there was no real measurable improvement, no surprise. I did notice, if I didn’t add salt his fins would begin to clamp to the point of tearing. It’s most noticeable in his dorsal fin and the top of his tail. I found the co op’s article about salt and have tried both levels 1 and 2. I’m a little scared to try level 3, a tablespoon per gallon sounds like a lot. I’m new to the hobby, Hue is my first betta and the first fish I’ve been the sole keeper of. I want to do right by him but I’m concerned I may be completely off the mark with his health, but since I’ve had him his dorsal fin has never opened fully and often looks like a sad tattered flag when he lifts it. I guess my questions for the more experienced minds out there are, can bettas really handle 1 Tbs per gallon of salt? Thoughts on his fins? Can I keep live plants with him if I’m not concerned about losing them to salt? I would prefer he has some enrichment while being treated. Last one is how often do you change water when treating with salt? Thank you to anyone who read this.
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