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Found 19 results

  1. So...I have an idea... I recently adopted/inherited a very large Central American cichlid. You can read more about him here if you would like. Long story short, he'll pretty much destroy anything you put in the tank with him, be it flora or fauna. He also eats a lot and produces a lot of waste. Consequently, the nitrate levels in his tank stay pretty high. His previous owner was doing 75% water changes every three days to combat nitrates. If I need to do that, I will, but honestly, I would like to avoid it. I think there's a smarter way to handle it. Obviously, I can't put plants in his tank because they'll get eaten or uprooted. So, my thought was to build a kind of sump system with a spare 20 gallon, put it next to it and just stuff that 20 gallon with plants. I've found promising-looking plans for an overflow that doesn't involve drilling and I figure I can just add a spare powerhead to pump water out of the sump back into the tank, so the engineering of it is not the problem. I'm wondering how I get the most "bang for my buck" plant-wise. I've got some pothos I can root in there and various stem plants (water wisteria, ludwigia, rotalla, bacopa), but they don't seem great at really sucking up nitrates. I've heard Amazon frog bit is really good, but as near as I can tell, Oregon classifies it as a noxious weed (for good reason), and no one who knows what they're doing will ship it here. I've heard hornwort is also good, but my normal plant sources don't have it in stock. Bamboo could also be an option, apparently. I'd like to avoid duckweed for obvious reasons, but if it's amazing at sucking up nitrates, I guess I could give it a go. What plants would anyone recommend? And what of lighting? I have no shortage of various aquarium lights, including a few Fluval Nanos. Do I just blast that sump tank with light all day? If algae takes over in that tank, is there a risk of it spreading to the main tank? I don't mind the small tank having algae, but I'd like to keep it out of the main tank if possible. What are peoples' thoughts here? How can I work smarter not harder?
  2. My tank was has been setup for over 6 months. I did have 7 albino and 2 pepper and 6 sterba Corys with 5 white cloud, 7 Rasboras, 1 clown pleco and about 6 super red pleco babies. This is a 36 bow front. All live plants in bdb I fed them this morning...not thinking and then did my water testing. Parameters: pH- 8.0-8.2, Ammonia- 0ppm, Nitrate- 80ppm, nitrite 0ppm.... This tank has been getting water changes about every 2 weeks 10 to 15 gallons. We did miss 1 recently. We had a death in the family and we're dealing with that. The Corydoras that died were doing really well prior. I have since added a seasoned sponge filter in addition to the HOB. I also have a UV sterilizer in this tank.
  3. Hello! I've got a couple nano 5.5 gallons (yay apartment life) that are stocked with 6 rasboras each, with the usual smattering of snails and shrimp. I feed pretty generously, and am dosing 4 pumps of easy green a week (2 pumps twice a week) and I'm still sitting at zero nitrate! I pull fistfuls of dwarf water lettuce and duckweed every week too. One doesn't have any algae at all, but one is grows a manageable amount each week. My question is, do I stock heavier? Or just keep pumping more fertilizers? I hesitate because 5.5 gallons isn't much, and I don't want to upset the balance too much. But man, it's a lot of fertilizers for such a tiny tank. Thanks!
  4. Hello everyone 😃 I recently saw a post that made a claim that nitrates are less toxic in low pH. While that is certainly true with ammonia. It couldn't be further from the truth with nitrates. Nitrates become increasingly more deadly to fish/shrimp in lower pH. If your pH is low and your nitrates begin to rise. It will start to lower the blood oxygen content of fish/shrimp. Which will limit the fish/shrimps ability to transfer oxygen through its bloodstream, from its gills through the rest of its body. Your fish/shrimp will become progressively lethargic up until death if not corrected. Now, we are talking pretty extreme levels of nitrates (80+ppm) with lower pH roughly 6.3 and below. Just wanting to correct some misinformation that might have got around 😃
  5. Hi all I'm currently working on a good forest of elodea densa to hide my intake but mainly to consume nitrate. What are peoples thoughts on lots of trimming so it bushes out or just having more narrow plants to consume nitrate. In short would a few really big plants consume more nitrate than more smaller ones? Thoughts??
  6. I have 5 separate tanks all with similar issues but potentially different solutions based on the livestock. Basic question is how do I keep enough macro nutrients for the plants while being cognizant of the livestock that I have read is a little more sensitive (Apisto, gudgeons). I use root tabs and Easy Green but the math says one pump of Easy Green is about 3 PPM nitrates. I don't want to just keep squirting. 1. 20 gallon planted (low-med light) (tank in picture)- This has 7 guppies, 2 BN pleco, and 1 female Apisto Cacatuoides. I dose 2 weekly pumps of Easy Green but my nitrates are always zero. With the Apisto (brand new) I am afraid to dose any higher or with anything else based on reading a lot of them needed clean water and lots of water changes. My current water change is about 20% every other week. How do I keep 20 PPM nitrates for plants with more planned more frequent water changes for the apisto? Or am I over-estimating the water change needs for it? 2. Two 10 gallon tanks (med light each) (5 peacock gudgeons in one, 20 red cherry shrimp in the other)- I would describe these are medium planted including floaters (XL water lettuce and frogbit, respectively). I have a few swords in each so they get root tabs monthly and a pump of Easy Green weekly. Maybe 10% bi-weekly water change in the gudgeons and I plan about 10% monthly water change (and top ups) for the shrimp. 3. One 10 gallon tank (low light) (no livestock, not sure what i will do with it). This tank is easiest to mess with because its empty of livestock. I keep the hornwort (fills about 2/3 of the tank), dwarf water lettuce, and nitrifying bacteria fed constantly with a 3% ammonia solution to take the aquarium to 4 PPM daily. I randomly change water in here as I feel like it. 24 hours after my NH3 addition the NH3, NO2, and NO3 are all zero. I also dose Easy Green one pump per week. If you read this far Thank You!
  7. Hi guys! I'm super excited to try this stuff. I just was wondering if it raises nitrates at all and should I be concerned. I have a 37 gallon tall tank. Moderately stocked with plants and I have 6 mollies.
  8. Amonia(.5) and nitrate(almost 40) started to rise yesterday and did a 5 gallon water change today I finished the water change with 15 gallons added prime and added amonia and nitrate removers to the canister filter it's a saltwater carnivore tank I had more snails hermits and some macro algae coming tomorrow the levels were going back down nitrate is down to 20 amonia is .25 but not anywhere near what I want what else can I do
  9. I have high nitrates out of the tap and dont want to push them too high by adding too much easy green. Ive found that 1 pump adds about 10ppm per 10 gal. is that everyone else's experience?
  10. So starting like 5 months ago I had a medium plant load in the aquarium using an old florescent tank light and the marineland advanced LED light on my 40 breeder, and both were on a timer. I was dosing 4 pumps as directed of easy green a week and weekly water changes. I started noticing black spots on the hardscape and didn't think much of it. fast forwarding 4 months BBA and BGA have now infested my tank and my tank is also heavily planted. Now after christmas this year I got a fluval 3.0 and set it to the day cycle as provided by Bently Pascoe, and my marine land goes on for 4 hours when the fluval is at it's peak of strongest light for my Montecarlo and pearlweed. I know that with the consistent dosing and lighting there really is one variable which is the plant growth itself, causing deficiency on nutrients in the water column. I've been trying to bomb the tank with nutrients the last two days with 10 pumps of easy green. I still can't even get to 5ppm of N. I don't know what to do and I am getting tired of fighting algae Plants: Monte Carlo, over a dozen crypts, Red pearl Amazon sword, mult. stems of pearlweed, Italian and leopard Val, Bolbitis, 4 bunches of Anubias nana petite, 2 Normal anubias nana, 2 fist fulls of Golden Loydellia, Dwarf Sag. and finally one smaller clump of Java Fern. Fish: 7 inch Poly teug. (will be moving to 210 once the tank is set up) 4 inch Poly Ornate (will be moving to 210 once the tank is set up) 2x 3 Inch Angels (breeding pair) 1 SAE and a mating pair of Kribensis
  11. I have been a bad bad fish mom! just tested my water and I had .5 ppm of nitrite and somewhere between 40 and 80 ppm of nitrate!!!! I did a 1/3 wc but my question is - can it shock the fish to suddenly have 0 nitrite and about 10-20 nitrate? If I test my water right after a WC, are the results still accurate or the Prime/Stability might mess up my results? Gosh I hope my coridoras will be ok. Poor little chubbies (my sweet name for them!)
  12. Does anyone have good, bad or other experiences with addition of lava rocks to facilitate removal of nitrate- the rocks serving as havens for reproduction of detoxifying bacteria.
  13. I have a 20L tank with 12 rainbow shiners. I realize I have neglected water changes for quite some time and I believe I have been over feeding looking back at things. I noticed something was wrong when one fish had problems with his eyes and was acting erratic. He swam strangely and bumped into the driftwood and plants. He doesn't shoal with the others and I think he may be blind now. This is because when I netted him out he didn't know the net was there and wondered into it when he was bumbling about. I tested the water immediately and my nitrate was off the scale of 160ppm. Here are the test results: PH: 7.3 (two months ago it was 7.74 which is closer to normal with my water) temp: 73 Ammonia: 0.25 Nitrite: 0 Nitrate: 160 + TDS: 656 I looked online and did a rapid nitrate reduction water change I found that targeted salt water hobbyists. I drained the tank to 20% and then filled it to 40% with dechlorinated tap water 2 times. Then one more time I drained the water from 40% to 20% and then filled it up full. My water after the changes: PH: 8.49 Temp: 73 Ammonia: 0.5 (I have chloramine in my tap water so some ammonia is present) Nitrite: 0 Nitrate: 5 ppm TDS: 652 I will keep an eye on the tank and the fish in question still is by himself, but looks like he is picking around the moss and substrate for food. So I think he may not know where the others are in the tank? Also one of the pictures looks like there is some discoloring on one of his gills. Here are some pictures of him and the last picture is of a healthy looking tank mates for comparison.
  14. Hi- I have a 75g that has been set up for 20months. Fully planted, high light, co2 for fun. I had been doing 2-4 pumps per day of Easy Green over the life of the tank. My city must be adding something in the water for winter as now when I change water my nitrate levels stay at 20ppm. Any opinions if I should continue to dose? Thinking I may be missing some other elements If I stop - but nitrates seem to be staying at 20 even without dosing. In the past my nitrates would drop significantly each day.
  15. Im so confused! The tank details: I just set up this 55 gallon. It has a fluval fx4 with a heater, bubbler, prefilter, and spray bar. I added the monte carlo about 3 weeks ago and the other plants about 3 days ago. The monte carlo was a tissue culture, so all the terrestrial leaves are melting and new ones are growing in, as well a new roots. Ive added easy green and easy carbon around every other day for the last week and a half. I also added cycled media from my old tanks and beneficial bacteria starter liquid. Now for the problem: I just checked my nitrates and the its sitting really high, around 40-80ppm (i cant really tell which color it is based on the chart). The ammonia is at 0ppm and the ph is around 7. I think it maybe all the melting from the monte carlo causing a spike in ammonia->nitrates. Ive never had this happen during a tank start up. Also, should I do a large water change. I have ludwigia in the tank and have read they dont like dramatic changes in water parameters. If I should, what percentage do you recommend? Update: I just moved into this new apartment thats a few blocks away. I assumed the water was the same. However, this is the reading of the faucet water with dechlorinater in it. Nitrates: 20ppm, ph is at 8.2., ammonia is at 0~0m25ppm. Is this normal? Also, after a 50% water change my waters sitting at about 40ppms still and ph is now 7.8. Should i do another 50% water change?
  16. I've heard Corey say we should keep 20ppm of nitrates in our water that comes from Easy Green. How do we determine what part of our nitrates are from Easy Green vs food and fish poop? For example, my nitrates are currently about 30ppm and I dosed Easy Green a week ago, but I don't see how would I know if 20 of the 30 are from Easy Green, or is 20 of the 30 from food and fish poop or is all 30 from Easy Green because my fish are shy and won't poop in public 🤣. Just wondering how to determine how much Easy Green to add. I have mostly root feeding plants, (Sword, Crypts, Vallisneria) with a few moss balls.
  17. I have freshwater 55gal tank with just a few fish...like 8 small fish and 2 algae eaters...several plants one piece of driftwood a HOB filter with bio spools and cartridges and a medium sponge filter. The tank is now about 6 weeks old....but the nitrates seem to test a tad high....5ppm.....I have not done water change because I don't want to mess up the cycle....the fish have been in for about 2 weeks...so am I just going to have put a lot more plants and give in to changing water or is it going to settle down at some point pretty soon. Ammonia isn't really high...so, Im just not sure what is going on and what to do....does any of that nitrate gone stuff really work? I use the water conditioners that the co op sells when I add water...says it helps with nitrates.....I am so paranoid ..I used to have fish tanks like 30 years ago before I knew anything about all this testing business and never lost fish or had cloudy water or any problems and now....just because I know about this stuff, I have problems....any suggestions?
  18. I have an issue with my tendentious where shaking the nitrate bottle just isn't feasible for me, I will suffer all week with pain in my arm now from it. I actually went to test strips for a long time, now I'm finally out and down just to my master test kit, which I really want to use, but I can't seem to get myself to as it is self-inflicted pain. I'm really looking for suggestions here. I'm watching my nitrates a lot as I have a lot of newly established tanks, and I need to keep an eye on it to make sure I get the right water change schedule and volume going right. Any suggestions? Should I just give up and deal with test strips (I know they aren't as accurate, but I just don't know what else to do - and tbh, I've not noticed that much of a difference in them when I compare the liquid kit).
  19. Do people actually shake for the times recommend on the nitrate test? I can't bring myself to do it!
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