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  1. I have a 20L tank with 12 rainbow shiners. I realize I have neglected water changes for quite some time and I believe I have been over feeding looking back at things. I noticed something was wrong when one fish had problems with his eyes and was acting erratic. He swam strangely and bumped into the driftwood and plants. He doesn't shoal with the others and I think he may be blind now. This is because when I netted him out he didn't know the net was there and wondered into it when he was bumbling about. I tested the water immediately and my nitrate was off the scale of 160ppm. Here are the test results: PH: 7.3 (two months ago it was 7.74 which is closer to normal with my water) temp: 73 Ammonia: 0.25 Nitrite: 0 Nitrate: 160 + TDS: 656 I looked online and did a rapid nitrate reduction water change I found that targeted salt water hobbyists. I drained the tank to 20% and then filled it to 40% with dechlorinated tap water 2 times. Then one more time I drained the water from 40% to 20% and then filled it up full. My water after the changes: PH: 8.49 Temp: 73 Ammonia: 0.5 (I have chloramine in my tap water so some ammonia is present) Nitrite: 0 Nitrate: 5 ppm TDS: 652 I will keep an eye on the tank and the fish in question still is by himself, but looks like he is picking around the moss and substrate for food. So I think he may not know where the others are in the tank? Also one of the pictures looks like there is some discoloring on one of his gills. Here are some pictures of him and the last picture is of a healthy looking tank mates for comparison.
  2. Hi- I have a 75g that has been set up for 20months. Fully planted, high light, co2 for fun. I had been doing 2-4 pumps per day of Easy Green over the life of the tank. My city must be adding something in the water for winter as now when I change water my nitrate levels stay at 20ppm. Any opinions if I should continue to dose? Thinking I may be missing some other elements If I stop - but nitrates seem to be staying at 20 even without dosing. In the past my nitrates would drop significantly each day.
  3. Im so confused! The tank details: I just set up this 55 gallon. It has a fluval fx4 with a heater, bubbler, prefilter, and spray bar. I added the monte carlo about 3 weeks ago and the other plants about 3 days ago. The monte carlo was a tissue culture, so all the terrestrial leaves are melting and new ones are growing in, as well a new roots. Ive added easy green and easy carbon around every other day for the last week and a half. I also added cycled media from my old tanks and beneficial bacteria starter liquid. Now for the problem: I just checked my nitrates and the its sitting really high, around 40-80ppm (i cant really tell which color it is based on the chart). The ammonia is at 0ppm and the ph is around 7. I think it maybe all the melting from the monte carlo causing a spike in ammonia->nitrates. Ive never had this happen during a tank start up. Also, should I do a large water change. I have ludwigia in the tank and have read they dont like dramatic changes in water parameters. If I should, what percentage do you recommend? Update: I just moved into this new apartment thats a few blocks away. I assumed the water was the same. However, this is the reading of the faucet water with dechlorinater in it. Nitrates: 20ppm, ph is at 8.2., ammonia is at 0~0m25ppm. Is this normal? Also, after a 50% water change my waters sitting at about 40ppms still and ph is now 7.8. Should i do another 50% water change?
  4. I've heard Corey say we should keep 20ppm of nitrates in our water that comes from Easy Green. How do we determine what part of our nitrates are from Easy Green vs food and fish poop? For example, my nitrates are currently about 30ppm and I dosed Easy Green a week ago, but I don't see how would I know if 20 of the 30 are from Easy Green, or is 20 of the 30 from food and fish poop or is all 30 from Easy Green because my fish are shy and won't poop in public 🤣. Just wondering how to determine how much Easy Green to add. I have mostly root feeding plants, (Sword, Crypts, Vallisneria) with a few moss balls.
  5. I have freshwater 55gal tank with just a few fish...like 8 small fish and 2 algae eaters...several plants one piece of driftwood a HOB filter with bio spools and cartridges and a medium sponge filter. The tank is now about 6 weeks old....but the nitrates seem to test a tad high....5ppm.....I have not done water change because I don't want to mess up the cycle....the fish have been in for about 2 weeks...so am I just going to have put a lot more plants and give in to changing water or is it going to settle down at some point pretty soon. Ammonia isn't really high...so, Im just not sure what is going on and what to do....does any of that nitrate gone stuff really work? I use the water conditioners that the co op sells when I add water...says it helps with nitrates.....I am so paranoid ..I used to have fish tanks like 30 years ago before I knew anything about all this testing business and never lost fish or had cloudy water or any problems and now....just because I know about this stuff, I have problems....any suggestions?
  6. I have an issue with my tendentious where shaking the nitrate bottle just isn't feasible for me, I will suffer all week with pain in my arm now from it. I actually went to test strips for a long time, now I'm finally out and down just to my master test kit, which I really want to use, but I can't seem to get myself to as it is self-inflicted pain. I'm really looking for suggestions here. I'm watching my nitrates a lot as I have a lot of newly established tanks, and I need to keep an eye on it to make sure I get the right water change schedule and volume going right. Any suggestions? Should I just give up and deal with test strips (I know they aren't as accurate, but I just don't know what else to do - and tbh, I've not noticed that much of a difference in them when I compare the liquid kit).
  7. Do people actually shake for the times recommend on the nitrate test? I can't bring myself to do it!
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