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Found 19 results

  1. Hello again everyone, i haven’t been on much since I’ve joined, life is interesting right now. I am in the process of trying to modify my 40g breeder set up so that it is easier for maintenance. briefly, the story goes like this. About 7 years ago i fell on my shoulder and after going to dozens of doctors since then I’ve only recently been diagnosed with, basically a pinched nerve that has to be surgically resolved. Who knows when that will happen. The symptoms include not being able to reliably hold my arm up parallel to my shoulder without losing all feeling in the pinky and ring finger. Its a degenerative issue, so i hadn’t noticed how difficult it was for me to deal with until i weekly began needing to remove the glass lid from our 40g tank in order to gravel vac, and cutting my hand several times when my fingers went numb and i couldn’t maintain a grip. I also can’t see inside the tank to clean it with the lights off. first I was going to try to make those pendulum lights like the kingofdiy’s but he doesn’t really tell you anything about the bulb that goes in the lights. Or actually what products he uses at all. I bought These e26 light cords so that i could hang them over the tank, thinking i could just adjust their height when i needed to move them out of the way and i wouldn’t have to reach up too much to do it. The light bulbs i got don’t seem to penetrate the water column at all, despite being 100w (or the led equivalent of 100w incandescent). I have all low light plants and don’t want to spend $40 for a plant light bulb, that seems ridiculous honestly. The other modification is to get a lighter lid. I was going to make a polycarbonate lid, in 2 parts, so it is easier for me to lift for feeding and such but it has not been available in my area for a while. There are the clear polycarbonate sheets that are more like glass but they are only .08 inches thick and that seems too thin. At least its not the kind cory used in his video about diy lids. We want to purchase clown killifish in the future so the lid is important, otherwise i’d just leave the lid off and get a python hook to top off the tank every few days. Plus it would allow me to put my hang on back filter on the side instead of the back of the tank and it would be way easier for me to get to it to clean. It wouldn’t look at good but, beggers can’t be choosers lol. Does anyone have experience with this stuff? i really appreciate everyone’s help once again, i want to make maintenance as easy as i can so we can keep the aquariums because they truely give us joy.
  2. Hello. I’m looking for some suggestions for lights for my 29 gallon. It’s heavenly planted and I’m currently using the aqueon hood fluorescent bulb. Seems to work just fine but it’s a pain to work with since I have to take the light off to work in the tank and where I have the tank is not very well lit. I’m looking for something full spectrum that offers lighting cycles as I go out f town a lot for work. The stingray doesn’t seem strong enough and I’ve heard to many bad things about the fluval one coop sells because of the app being garbage. I’ve considered a timer plug but I have everything plugged into a surge protector so the spacing would suck and I still want a light I can leave on my tank when I take the lid off due to poor lighting in the area. Plants Frog bit x12 Red root floater x 6 Anubius x10 Lobelia Cardinalis x3 Narrow leaf Chain Sword x2 Spiralis x2 Java moss x2 Anacharis x2 Normal Amazon Sword Flame Amazon Sword Red Melon Sword Bronze Wendtii Green Wendtii Red Wendtii Banana plant Duck weed Fish Cardinal Tetras x14 Harlequin Rasbora x5 Pygmy Corries x8 Khuli loaches x6 Betta Snails
  3. I have been asked to start a thread on modern lighting techniques for reef tanks. So here we go... I will start with discussing the various lighting technologies that are frequently used in reef tanks. 1. LED: Pros: Small form factor Little heat emitted No need to change bulbs Controllability Availability Cons: Too much controllability (this will be discussed further below) Lose efficiency after about 5 years Can be expensive 2. T5 Fluorescent: Pros: Proven technology Many choices for bulbs and bulb combos Great spread More affordable Cons: Need to change bulbs every 8-14 months Little controllability Losing popularity Decreasing availability 3. Metal Halide: Pros: Proven technology Great spread Full spectrum Cons: Produce a lot of heat Need to change bulbs every 9-12 months Little controllability Losing popularity Decreasing availability Consider these pros and cons when choosing a lighting technology to go with. Know that the vast majority of reef keepers are using LED lighting, although many still have success with T5 and metal halides. Let's discuss the most important aspects of reef tank lighting. I would say that there are three main aspects of lighting that are the most important: spread, spectrum, and intensity. Spread: I would argue that of the three, spread is the most important. You can have correct spectrum and intensity, but it is a moot point if you do not have the spread to deliver that light to the coral. This is an area where T5 and metal halide really shine (pun intended). T5 does it by being a light source that is as big as the aquarium, thus delivering light to nearly every corner of the tank. Metal halides accomplish this by using large reflectors that send the light to every corner of the tank. There are two common ways that LED light manufacturers address spread: using a wide-angle lens, or using a flat panel style light. Wide angle lens: Panel style: The pros of the wide angle design is that it gives a natural shimmer look to the tank that many people love. This comes at a cost however. Using a point source light with a wide-angle lens creates shadows in the aquarium, thus limiting the possible areas of the tank where you can plant corals. The pros of the panel design, is that it does a great job of limiting shadows in the aquarium, much like a T5. It does come at a cost of the shimmer, creating a much more flat look to the aquarium. Panel style lights have been much more prevalent in the hobby recently and are gaining popularity. Spectrum: The spectrum of the light that is emitted is also a very important factor. The coral animal contains a symbiotic dinoflagellate called zooxanthellae that performs photosynthesis which gives energy to the coral. This graph shows the wavelengths of light, or spectrum, that are most important for coral photosynthesis: You will notice that most of the peaks of absorption occur within the blue spectrum. This is why most reef keepers agree that having a light that produces a wide spectral band in the 410-470 nm range is important. This is where the controllability of LEDs can be a con. It gives the user the ability to manipulate the spectrum, which can be detrimental to your corals. What looks good to the user, is not necessarily what is good for the corals. The spectrum produced by many metal halide bulbs is considered full spectrum. It is closest of all of these technologies, to the light produced by the sun. It includes wavelengths of light in the UV, far red, and IR spectrums. There is considerable debate as to the effects of these spectrums on coral growth, so I will not go into it too much. Intensity: The intensity of the light is also an important consideration. We usually measure the intensity of lighting using PAR, or Photosynthetically Active Radiation. This is measured using a PAR meter. The PAR needs of your corals depend greatly on the species of coral you are lighting. Generally, soft corals like lower light (50-100 PAR), LPS (Large Polyp Stony) like medium light (75-150 PAR), and SPS (Small Polyp Stony) like high light (200-300 PAR). These are generalizations and vary greatly depending on the specific species. The best way to make sure that you are meeting the PAR needs of your corals is to buy or borrow a PAR meter. You can use this to tune your lights so that they are meeting the demands of your corals. Under-lighting your corals usually corresponds to lessened color and growth. You also do not want to over-light your corals, this can cause bleaching. Popular Reef Lighting Brands: These are some of the most popular lighting brands that have produced considerable success in many people's tanks. Ecotech Radions Kessil Aqua Illumination Primes and Hydras Red Sea Philips Coral Care ATI GHL Maxspect Orphek Reef Breeders If you decide to go with lights from any one of these manufacturers, you know that there are many people who have used these and had success, and are also willing to assist you with any questions you might have. There are also many "budget" friendly options available. However, there is usually little information about them online, so getting help with them can be tough, which is why I generally do not recommend them to beginners. That being said, it is very possible to have great success at growing corals with budget options, such as "black box" LED fixtures from Amazon Conclusion: In conclusion, there are many factors that go into mastering lighting for your reef tank. None of this matters though if you have not already gotten the hang of keeping good and stable water chemistry. Likewise, it is possible to have a great looking reef tank with sub-par lighting, if you already have good water chemistry. Feel free to offer critiques or if you have any questions, feel free to ask them below. *Do not quote this post so edits can be made later.
  4. Currently, I'm using a finnex planted plus clip on my 5.5 gallon tank. Within the next month or two, I will be upgrading to a 10 gallon. Just waiting for the next sale at Petco. I have a few plants the require medium light and worry that my current light won't provide enough light for a 10 gallon tank. My dream light is a Fluval Plant light but I really can't see spending that much on a light right now. Even the current price on Finnex lights seem high. The fluval aquasky and the Finnex Planted Plus HLC currently cost the same. Has anyone used a finnex planted plus clip on a 10 gallon? If i'm buying a new light, would a fluval Aquasky have a high enough par rating?
  5. Just added another light to my 30 gallon and went with the nicrew based on several recommendations in the past, here is it compared to the beamworks da6500 i already had for it. First picture is both, second is nicrew only, last picture is beamworks only. Nicrew seems much much dimmer than the beamworks and doent actually seem to make it much brighter than just beamworks alone but if my dwarf baby tears finally start carpeting i guess ill know its enough additional to acheive my goal. Anyway if you are poor like me and looking for a budget light i think beamworks is the better buy for a little more money and ive had good results with just it.
  6. Hey all, So I'm a total nerd and went down a 2 day rabbit hole when I decided to do DIY lights for my 60 Hex project. My big thing is that I had no idea how bright "low", "medium" or "high" light actually was. When I looked it up, I always found vague lumens/gallon or just PAR values. Because I don't want to spend the money on anything that gives a PAR values, I had to figure them out. Most common white LEDs are phosphor-converted type LEDs and they all have a similar spectrum assuming the color temp is the same. This is why this can be done without knowing the specific spectrum of the LEDs you are using. The equation is as follows: PPDF=Fa(lumens/(H(Tan[Φ/2])) (PPFD is what we think of as PAR) Lux*Fa=PPFD Fa-factor from reference link Lux=lumens/area Area= Pi(B/2)^2 B=2H(tan(Φ)) H-Hight of light from substrate. Φ- angle of LED reflector (total angle from side to side) Phosphor LED factors based on color temp; Less than ~ 3000K = 0.017 Between ~ 3000K to 4000K = 0.015 Greater than ~ 4000K = 0.014 Because this is an estimate, I plan to also estimate the angle of the LED reflector, thought down lights will sometimes give them. A source of error in this method is that it assumes 100% of the photons emitted from the LED will hit within the designated area (This also assumes the reflector will absorb no light), Therefore this estimate will likely be on the high side. The equation is best used for a single light, however, if you have a few that are close together it could still be an alright estimate given that the distance between the lights is relatively small compared to the area they are shinning on (most LEDs use this idea). If they are far apart, you can add the values where they overlap (like a Venn diagram). This equation could be changed to estimate a light bar by using B to find Area with a different equation. I'm tired now but will show this if anyone has interest Hope this helps someone save a few bucks! Who says you'll never use trig after high school?
  7. Hi, I am looking Into getting an LED lights for a planted tank that's 48" x 24" with the height close to 36" (which is really tall). Obviously with a tall aquarium I am concern on the brightness of the lights that I need especially for a planted tank (substrate will probably around 4.5" depth). I've tried looking into what others in the hobbies do with their tanks and I am finding it a bit hard to find anyone with a similar set up (a tall tank). The general consensus is that the height will definitely impact the light penetration. As such I have been looking at various lights' lumens values and what confuses me is that all the high-end or Pro WRGB LED lights lumens figures that I could find max at around 5,000-8,000lm (depending on which brand). On the other hand, full spectrum LED lights which from what I research are more for the plants with medium intensity requirement has higher lumens value (around 12,000-17,000lm) than the lights designed for high-light intensity plants such as Plant Fluval, Chihiros WRGB Vivid, etc. So I am confused how to strike a balance between having enough penetration (using the lumen value) and still have WRGB feature to ensure specific wavelengths are available for photosynthesis & as nutrients, while trying to keep cost as low as possible. Am I missing something here or have I misunderstood it? I am fairly new to this hobby so please let me know, any help or input are welcome. My head is about to burst trying to make heads or tails of this matter. Cheers, Dee
  8. My 20g long has a Finnex Stingray on for 6 hours per day. The tank sits on a bar between two rooms and there are three incandescent pendant lights hanging over the bar. These pendants are on all day for reasons unrelated to my tank. When plant shopping, should I consider this a medium or high light setup? (I'm assuming it's not low light because that's what I considered the incandescents alone when they were growing my betta's plants.)
  9. Hi Everyone, I need to have a good light for my 35 gallon tank while all the available lights in my country are using white LEDs, so I am going to a DIY light and was wondering which LEDs should I use, should I go for White + Warm (Yellow) + Blue or White + Red + Blue + Green or should I use some other combination? Thanks
  10. I have a 55 gallon aquarium currently using two Marineland covers with LED lights. Since I started adding live plants, I have found that the Anubias are doing fine after 6 months but the Java Ferns are slowly dying off. First the leaves get brown spots and over several weeks die and need to be removed. All plants are attached to rocks via string, rubber band, or super glue. Water chemistry is generally OK with pH of 7.6, nitrites and ammonia at near zero and nitrates fluctuate between 20 and 50. I want to add more plants to help with nitrates and for appearance so I am considering adding a Fluval 3.0 LED light to be able to provide more light to the plants. The aquarium measures 12 inches by 48 inches with a divider bar in the middle. Height is 18 inches. Should I get the 36 inch/46 watt or 48inch/59 watt light? Also, once I remove the existing Marineland covers, should I replace them with glass covers to reduce evaporation and fish jumping out of the tank or is there something else people would recommend?
  11. Hi I’m to lighting any help would be appreciated. I have a 55 gallon tank and was thinking of getting 2 20 inch string rays . My tank has a bar in the middle each half is 23 inches or is it better to get one big 48 inch light. Help please I don’t know what to do.
  12. I have a ten gallon tank with a sponge filter, glass lid, and a Finnex Stingray 2. Inhabitants are a bunch of cherry shrimp and 7 chili rasboras. It's pretty well planted with a variety of different plants, including several types of floating plants. I currently do not dose any fertilizers or any co2, aside from root tabs. When I set it up initially I did add just a bit of fertilizer weekly, but then I got hair algae (I think) that went out of control. I did a blackout for about a week and that killed it, so I stopped dosing ferts and reduced the photoperiod to about 4 hours. Now my photo period is 5 on, 2 off, 5 on so that there's a little siesta during the day. I'm noticing that especially at the bottom, the algae is beginning to return. My thought is that my light is just too bright, and after seeing Girl Talks Fish video comparing Stingray 1 and 2, part of me is considering getting the Stingray 1 so that the light will essentially be cut in half. The reason I have so many floating plants was to reduce the light, which I suppose helps, but didn't solve the problem. Just curious if it is the light, or if there could be another cause. Also while I don't want to purchase a new light for the tank if it means a possible solution I would be happy to, as I am not sure how to appropriately reduce the light otherwise (dimmer switch? electrical tape over some of the diodes?).
  13. I have two new 40 breeders and plan on planting them with low to medium light plants. My first question is are the Finnex Stingray a good light for that or is there another comparable light near the same price point? I have always used HOB filters in the past how many gallons per hour am I going to need circulating for a 40 gallon? Also any suggestion on model of HOB? Last of all will a 200w heater be sufficient? Appreciate any input and look forward to being a part of this forum. Cheers !
  14. What's the best light I can get for ~$200 for a 4ft (length) x 1ft (wide) x 1.5ft (height) tank? I'm thinking to buy the Fluval 3.0 48" light but I'm wondering if for about the same amount of money I can get a better one? The main goal with the tank is to grow all kinds plants so the customization feature available in the Fluval 3.0 is really a great point.
  15. In various livestreams Corey mentioned that he used to have a tank in his bedroom which he would look at to drift off to sleep. But I wonder that when we light such aquariums, a good amount of blue light is used, which should trouble us in having to sleep. So can we gather any tips or resources that can help us get a failure free attempt on night time tanks. Thanks Please let me know if this thread is inappropriate, I shall delete it immediately. I have genuine curiosity and I don't want to cross any boundaries.
  16. I’m looking for a good budget light for a 40b I want a fluval aquasky but I wanted to see if I could get anything that’s the same for cheaper (the aquasky is $110) if not not really a problem
  17. I started an accidental experiment by waiting too long to bring my tubs inside at the end of the summer. I ended up with a bunch of maple leaves in my tubs, covered in snails. I moved the tubs inside and dumped some leaves in each tub, but I had a bunch left. I put those in a bucket with a Co-Op Sponge filter to try to keep the snails alive, and see what would happen. I sampled some water a couple of weeks ago, and tested it last night: I decided to feed the test water to some houseplants.
  18. Does anyone know a way to clean all those white marks from aquarium lights?I think they have actually lowered the light intensity by a lot.I saw a video about this but they used dish soap and im pretty sure thats not aquarium safe.
  19. I have six ten gallon tanks, situated on a shelving unit, with cheap LED lights from Amazon suspended on the underside of each shelf illuminating the tank below it, Each tank ranges from moderately to heavily planted, and range from lightly to heavily stocked with fish. I dose occasionally with Easy Green, and do water changes as the conditions in each tank dictate. About 2-3 weeks after setting up this shelving unit, I began my battle with hair algae. I tried adding less Easy Green. then a few weeks later adding MORE Easy Green, I played with light duration until I noticed plants struggling even more than they were just covered in algae. Peroxide worked.......for a little while, but it kept coming back. In forty years of fishkeeping I have never had so much trouble finding the balance in a group of tanks. I was constantly removing hair algae, and scrubbing the front glass. and getting annoyed at myself for putting the shelves too close together to comfortably be able to really get into the tanks easily, Well finally one day about a month ago I decided to drain each tank into a tote, just low enough to move them off the shelves, so that I could adjust the shelves enough to give me about 2 more inches between the top of the tanks and the shelf above them. Just enough room to make my ongoing battle with the algae a bit easier. I then replaced each tank in its original location and put the water from the totes back into its respective tank. The hair algae began to die! Within a week or so it had almost disappeared from all the tanks in this set up. I changed nothing else at this time, as I had already tried everything else I could think of to balance out these tanks, and had resolved myself to growing hair algae forever and just working with it in these tanks. Maybe it had run its course, maybe I had finally found the balance just as I decided to do this, but also just maybe that extra 2 inches between the light and the tank made a difference. All I know is that as of now, plants and fish are all thriving and there is no hair algae in any of these tanks.
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