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Found 30 results

  1. All right so here is a silly thing to whine about but it’s really frustrated me for a long while. To actually try to get in the fluval spec V to do plant trimming I have to take the lid and light off (it’s a planted plus HLC)...then it’s dark in there...even with the overhead on. If I leave the light scooted over to the side, I’m paranoid it’ll fall in or fall out. I tried a headlamp but I’m worried that freaks my fish out. Geez, Idk what I want from you really? I don’t know. Anyone have any words of wisdom? Do you use a headlamp? Just ignore me. Haha I’d like a really step by step procedure video of someone trimming their plants. Ya got that somewhere in your saved videos?
  2. The Fluval Plant 3.0 lights are really nice, especially for the scheduling and light-level programming available thru the FluvalSmart app. I have about ten of the Plant Nanos, and three of the 15"-24" models, which are the newest of this Fluval line. Since these are currently the only lights I run, I have spent a lot of time in the app to get things right for my tanks so that I can grow plants, keep algae under control, and get to enjoy my tanks when I am around. I will post my own details in a follow-up message, but I have some general tips to share before that. 1. Firmware Updates: When you do firmware updates, it might look like a two-step process, but you just have to be patient since the bootloader is updated first, and then the firmware, so don't interrupt the process or click what looks like an extra prompt. I have not done a firmware update for a while, so be aware that the user experience might change. If you mess up, or need to do the upgrade again, swipe left on your light in the FluvalSmart app for the option to Upgrade or Remove. 2. Copying Programs: You can copy programs between lights, but not between the Plant Nano and the larger models. So I can use the same program on various Nanos, but for my 15"-24" units, I have to create a new program, which I can then share between those units. The way to do this is to "Save as" your program on one configured light, and then go into the matching target light, and choose "Export", and pick the program. I would expect the option to be labelled "Import", but it is not at the time of this post. 3. Power and Timer: These lights do not seem to have any internal batteries to maintain the time. If you have a power outage or interruption, they will assume the power-on time is 00:00 (midnight), and count from there until you access the light via the FluvalSmart app, which will sync the time. 4. Naming and Password: When editing a light, you can use the three dots to Find, Rename, Set password, and Remove password. I recommend naming your lights, especially if you get more than one. You can even sort them by name or type in the light list, so think about the names in context with your room layout. Password might be useful with too-clever kids, or in a professional environment, like a retail store. 5. Modes: For each light, you have three modes, Manual, Automatic, and Professional. Manual gives you Off, or On, with a custom light level and no scheduling. This is the perfect mode to use for photography, showing your aquariums on off-hours, or if you need to make some darkness so you can sleep in, or film other tanks in the same room. Automatic is an easy scheduling mode with presets for Tropical River, Lake Malawi, and Planted, and you can modify or create your own. It only includes seven set points, so you get a ramp up, a sustained period, a ramp down, an evening low-light period (often just a little blue), and a full night period. Professional mode gives you ten set points, which allows you do do a lot more custom lighting choices, including simulating the sky of a certain region, running a siesta (low or no-light midday period, simulating cloud and tree cover), or even dual siestas, which is what I use. I will add more on this later, once I collect my app screenshots. 6. Plant Nano Tips: The mount only fits on rimless tanks without modification. The metal L-bracket can be used backwards for more height and less reach, which is great for emergent plants and hardscape. If you have an odd size tank, you can also add felt feet and run the Plant Nanos right on a clear hood or glass. I donated a Nano to someone to figure out a 3D-printed rimmed mount, so we might see a cool design come out of that. Our host, Aquarium Co-Op, carries these lights: Fluval Plant 3.0 LED NANO WWW.AQUARIUMCOOP.COM 3 Year Warranty Programmable App Highly Water Resistant The Fluval 3.0 is the best planted aquarium light on the market in regards to functionality to cost ratio. Not only does this perform well, but it's backed by a 3 year... Fluval Plant 3.0 LED Light WWW.AQUARIUMCOOP.COM 3 Year Warranty Programmable App Highly Water Resistant The Fluval 3.0 is the best planted aquarium light on the market in regards to functionality to cost ratio. Not only does this perform well, but it's backed by a 3 year... Here is the 3D print file from @AquariumThoughts for the rimmed mount for the Plant 3.0 Nano: Fluval Nano Light Rimmed Tank Adapter by AquariumThouhhououghts - Thingiverse WWW.THINGIVERSE.COM Hopefully we can share our schedules and tips to get the most out of these lights! Cheers, Jason
  3. I wanted to add a bit more about why I like dual siestas, but I thought the topic should be separate from the Fluval 3.0 lighting thread. My dual siesta reasoning is 90% human, and 10% for a little bonus in organic soil Walstad tanks. I am not trying to promote it as a special formula for fish rooms or all tanks. I rejoined the hobby in 2018, after running marine tanks for a while until 2011, and under-gravel, plastic plant tanks as a kid. I spent a lot of time researching lighting, especially after I setup my first organic soil tank, and started to understand the balancing act between light, decomposition, algae, and plants. The corner case I was trying to solve involved the following: Organic soil Walstad tanks, bedroom setup, weekday enjoyment vs weekend enjoyment, and algae vs plants. I wanted to be able to grow my plants, let plants out-compete algae, and see what was happening when I was in the room, without disrupting anything. I could setup a weekday schedule, which was frustrating for weekends, or the opposite. There was no way to do a consistent 6-8 hour schedule without missing a ton of tank-viewing time. Before we got Fluval Pro Mode, I watched a few of Bentley Pascoe's videoes about using timers to trick the lights into more control points by resetting to midnight on a power-cycle. I also started reading Diana Walstad's book at the same time, where she discusses soil decomposition, CO2, plants, and algae, as well as siestas. My understanding is that plants ramp up photosynthesis faster than algae, so every slice of darkness-to-light favors the plants for a certain amount of time. In the meantime, with an organic soil substrate, the darkness allows for more production of CO2 from decomposition. The CO2 from decomposition is much lower than CO2 injection, but it is real. Once we got Pro Mode, I tried to find a way to slice up the time schedule so that I could get the equivalent of 6-8 hours of sustained light in a broken-up format, so I could wake up with my tanks at 07:00, enjoy them throughout the day, and have one hour of 1-2% blue from 21:00-22:00. I am getting 6-8 hours of normal light in 14-15 hours. That is what I tried to do with those schedules. I had to use triangle peaks rather than sustained peaks, since we don't have enough set points, but if you were to slide those triangles together, and overlap the middle ramp-ups, and ramp-downs, it would look more like a regular 6-8 hour schedule. I measured the pH changes with my Apex, along with temperature changes. Cheers
  4. Originally I threw away the stand for the Fluval Plant Nano, and made a custom hole in the lid for a Fluval Flex tank, but now I want to run it without the lid but don't have the metal stand! 😭. Does anyone happen to have the stand in a box of junk you aren't using that I can buy? They don't seem to sell it as a standalone thing, and I doubt I can 3d print something that will be sturdy enough.
  5. Looking to order a Fluval Plant 3.0 light for my Innovations Marine Nuvo Fusion 20. It is a rimless tank that is 23-1/2" wide rim-to-rim. I'd like to go with the 24" light to get better coverage, but I'm thinking the 15" may fit better. Anyone have exact dimensions on these two lights, or any input? Thanks
  6. I purchased a Innovative Marine 30L and I have no way to mount the regular Fluval 36 other than letting it set on top on tank which is not my preference. The NANO comes with its own mounting bar. Would two of these be sufficient over this tank? I currently only have Anubias and may look to add a few other low light plants. I am new to plants and this is my learning phase. Also what are the dimensions on the mounting bar? How far above the tank and how far will it extend over the tank? I cannot seem to find the dimensions for that mounting bracket bar. Thank you in advance for any help.
  7. I noticed there is a topic for fluval planted 3.0 settings. I snagged a fluval aquasky 2.0 for like 50$, so I got it. I love the features and the PAR lighting on my plants. Just wanted to share my daylight settings for those that might have this light. It has a cool morning, 5.5 hours of full sun to feed my plants, and a warm sunset. I have been using this for my 30g foe almost 2 months, and getting great growth on all my plants.
  8. New Fluval test kit has PH reading 5.5-6! As did my tap water and bottled water. I exchanged it for a new one today thinking it was faulty. Aquarium store also tested their water and got same results as mine. Tried again. Same results. Local city water tests at 7.2 to 7.8. My research says chlorine can throw off results? What is going on with this reagent? Any ideas? First pic is first test. Second pic is new kit with aquarium water on left and tap water on right.
  9. So Fluval E300 heater.... 125 gallon tank. In use for about a month. Mounted 45 degrees with the bottom towards the intake of a Fluval FX6. Ambient room temperature is about 72 degrees. The E300 shows 77.5, my little thermometer attached to the tank shows 78ish(probably closer to 79), and a thermometer with the probe I drop in the water shows 78ish, so I'm sure the water is close to where it should be. I do have a Eheim Jager 300W Heater at the other end. But for the last couple of days it has been flashing between 77.5 and LF, which my understanding is Low Flow. No other errors. I've searched the net and have an open ticket with Fluval, but thought I try here. I'm not getting the LF. The FX6 is open all the way, and from the sound of the output it sure sounds like good flow. So should I be worried? Any more troubleshooting I can do?
  10. If you had to pick just one of the following flakes to use as a staple, which would you choose? Keep in mind I am also currently using Xtreme flakes. Tank is a community of tropical fish: Mollies, Guppies, Loaches, Barbs, Tetras 1. Fluval Bug Bites Color Enhancing Flakes 2. Fluval Bug Bites Spirulina Flakes or 3. Fluval Bug Bites Tropical Formula
  11. I'm biting and purchasing a 3.0 for my 50 hex and not sure which size would be best for viewing, the 15-24" model is what fits my lid but I'm not sure if that's what would be best for viewing. I was thinking of purchasing a 24-34" model and rigging it the way I've done shop lights previously but I'm unsure which would be better for my tank. I'm concerned the larger light may be too much for my tank. The lowest-down plants are jungle/leopard val, Crypt wendtii, and an Amazon sword and the tank is 31" tall.
  12. Set up a 40 breeder a few days ago using the 300W Fluval E Heater and two of the Hygger double sponge filters (fine sponge). I don't seem to be getting a lot of flow placing the heater next to the sponge filters (never had a problem with a more coarse sponge). Kept getting the low flow alarm on the heater when it was vertical next to a filter. I put the heater at a 45 degree angle now between the two filters and directed the 90 degree filter tube output towards the heater. I don't have the low flow alarm anymore but the tank is struggling to get to temperature. Can't seem to get it above 76F and I want it around 78F. Any suggestions? I want to use these filters since they suction to the back wall and leave me some floor space & i plan on breeding a few things in the tank. Filters aren't dirty since nothing in tank at the moment except substrate and some plants.
  13. Hello! So I’m starting a 20 gal long planted tank (waiting on my Co Op plant order as we speak!) and had a lighting question. I ordered predominantly easy low light plants since I’m brand new to this, and I have a FluvalSmart aqua sky light. How do I know if this light will emit low, medium or high light? I understand the depth of the tank matters (12 in high), and the light sits directly on top of the glass lid, maybe an inch gap. Does anyone have any experience with this light for planted tanks?
  14. I'm recently getting back into the hobby, and I've seen various references to Ultraviolet technology used to "purify" water. Seems pricy. Will this make for a happier ecosystem, or have folks experienced some unintended consequences? (Benefits vs. risks)
  15. I have had had an Dwarf Lily Bulb since last August it has moved around to a couple tanks it currently resides in my 5 Gallon Fluval Spec. It is the only plant in the tank (some duckweed though). I have put root tabs under it and dose easy green on a weekly basis. Light is on roughly 8-9 hours a day depending on work schedule. Some leaves look pitted and a little discolored. Has been in this set-up for about a month and a half. Is it transitioning due to the new tank or is there something else I should do?
  16. So I have set up two tanks, one 10 gal and another 5gal... I used fluval stratum in both, because the goal was to have crystal shrimp, been using RO water remineralized with salty GH, so the water comes out pretty soft, with a ph of 6.6 - 6.7 and a TDS of 130, KH 0 and no nitrates or nitrites, its RO water of course... The problem comes when I add such water to the tank, its been about a week since I havent done a water change, but the ph keeps going up to 7.8 - 8 instead of dropping to 6.6 - 6.8 like it should, because thats what fluval stratum is supposed to do right?... I have also tried using a PH liquid from seachem that drops ph and it works for like 10 minutes, but then pH goes straight up again... I have no Idea what Im doing wrong and why Ph is not coming down like it should... Again, a little more than 2 months since the tanks were set up so I dont think the substrate is already exhausted, is this normal?? Oh and the water keeps getting cloudy and it just doesnt go away after so long.
  17. Hey everyone! My Fluval Flora is a beautiful tank. Happy and healthy. Very green! I have mainly ephiphytes in it, Java Fern and Anubias. Some Hornwort to remove the bad stuffs, and some developing Cryptocoryne Balansae for texture. I love this tank. I am using the Fluval nano plant light (this is NOT the 3.0), which is adjustable with the phone app. This can be a powerful light (it's for plants, after all). And I'm noticing a lot of black algae (not BB, don't confuse the two) growing on the leaves directly beneath the light. I have, on occasion, scrubbed this off with a glass-cleaning pad, but it's not perfect, and of course, the stuff just grows back. My question is: If anyone else uses this light with their tank (the Flora is a 14g cube), what do they set it at, keeping in mind I have mainly epiphytes? I have included a shot of my own settings for reference. Thanks in advance!
  18. Please sell Bug Bites in a larger size! I'd buy in one pound quantities if available. Please add your "Dear Fluval" request in here.
  19. Hi Everyone, Getting ready to set up a 29 gallon planted aquarium. I’m trying to decide between the Ziss Bio Filter or the Fluval 207 canister filter. Anyone have any advice? Pros and/or cons? Thank you.
  20. i’ve tried googling it but haven’t found anything. does anyone know where to purchase or diy a height extender for the fluval 3.0? mine is still too close to the surface at the highest option. maybe a way to mount it to the wall if anything? thanks!
  21. Hello! I'm new to the planted aquarium hobby. I've been researching quite a lot and have purchased and am in the process of setting up a Fluval Flex 32 freshwater aquarium. I have a good substrate (Seachem flourite dark) and plan to use only low-medium light plants with no Co2. I have 2 Aquasky 3.0 lights in the aquarium. What I'd like to know is what are the recommended settings for the Aquasky 3.0 for a low-medium light planted tank with no C02? I can't seem to find specific recommendations anywhere. Thanks! Scott P.
  22. I'm currently in the process of cycling my 16 gallon Fluval Vista aquarium. It's been almost 3 weeks: water parameters look great except for high nitrates. Have done 2 water changes of 50% each. Looking forward to some new occupants!
  23. I went to an auction this past Saturday, and tucked amongst a bunch of tools, lawn equipment and such was a Fluval flex 15 gallon tank. I ended up getting it for $7, including some mixed blue gravel and an auto fish food feeder. The only problem is, it didn't have the light included. I am thinking of setting it up at work in my office and doing it planted with some shrimp and nano fish. Can any of you guys give me ideas for a small light that will be good for plants for this tank, maybe a clip on type? I haven't really done too much research yet, but would the Fluval nano one be too powerful?
  24. Right now in my 20 long have guppies shrimp Corydoras and snails in it I want to add Corydoras to the 45 for sure and want to get a couple kuhli loaches what else would go good with it I have high ph and hard water at around 7.4 and up was thinking of doing rummynose tetras but heard they like soft water
  25. Hi All, I am looking to improve my plant growth and think my lighting may be too weak. The tank is 110 gallons. Planted with many varieties of plants from low to medium light, none of the high variety. I am running CO2. I am using a Finnex Ray 2 and plants are doing ok, all but the Vallisneria.. other carpeting plants are doing what they are supposed to. Ammania Gracillis is struggling and repens has died. This is leading me to believe the spectrum is off or intensity. My question is about doubling up the light, adding another light, or removing this one and getting a completely new fixture. From what I have read, the spectrum of light may be a cause of concern for the Ray 2. Would adding a Fluval 3.0 or Beamswork Evo Quad do any good?
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