Jungle Fan

Try the military helmet snails, a form of Nerite, instead if you can find them they are the most ferocious algae killers around. They even go after the hard green spot algae with gusto.

Do you have them in quarantine, or in your regular tank? You don't want the ich parasite dots to drop off and get in your substrate which they will do eventually as the heat increases their rate of growth because once they hatch they will look for another host thus spreading the disease. Once you have the fish in quarantine I would do both add salt, and increase heat, and treat as soon as your meds arrive.

I would say they are Amanos, unless they have the fans that look like hands with which they filter nutrients out of the water. Here are both:

Lobelia cardinalis submerged is completely light green without any red, also the leaves are well rounded without pointed tips. It could have been a form of Ludwigia, or Scarlet Temple, in the condition the plant is in now it is hard to tell. Lack of light intensity would be my guess, It could have also been a non-aquatic bog plant sold as an aquarium plant that could not convert to submerse status. You can see quite a few of those in chain pet stores with them counting on the buyer not knowing that the plant will die; although the root shoots at the base of each node would indicate against that.

Biofilm also called bacterial lawn, Otocinclus, shrimp and, Nerite snails love that stuff that usually only appears on freshly placed driftwood, once the wood has been submerged for a few weeks, or a month, it disappears by itself even without help.

Nice! Make sure to place some root tabs next to it.

I would turn up the heat after you get the meds as the heat will accelerate the disease process, you want the med to be in place when the parasites drop off and hatch so it kills them. If you have plants I would take the fish out and quarantine them and use the salt and meds in the quarantine tank because plants don't generally like salt in the dose you should apply.

O.k. quirkylemon103 I know you've seen mine being posted but at the off chance anyone else hasn't I'll post the link: I know it's not the 1,000 gallon monster I dreamt of in my younger years, and I have kept much larger tanks than this one before, but it is my dream of a small peaceful piece of jungle that brightens up my living room, especially in the winter, with a maintenance effort that is quite manageable to handle and more therapeutic than stress.

Looks like Bacopa crenata to me. Origin: West Africa from Senegal to Angola, and in East Africa in Tanzania and Madagascar. High light demand plant, prefers soft to middle hard water, 73.4F - 82.4F temperatures. Here's a link to a site with decent pictures of it to compare: https://www.jarathana.nl/planten/aquariumplanten/middengrond/bacopa-crenata-dentated-water-hyssop-in-pot.html Once on the site type Bacopa crenata in the search bar and it will take you to pictures of it. Forgot to mention earlier, I concur with Yanni on the other two that they look like Hygrophila compacta, and Mondo grass which is one of those plants that are sold to unsuspecting buyers while generally the seller knows they'll die in a short while because they can't adapt to submersed growth.

Don't toss them out when the leaves melt. They are grown emersed at the growers and need to get their submersed leaves, if you want to speed this process up you can cut back the nice looking but emersed leaves right away to just above the rosette, that will let the crypt focus its strength on rooting (make sure you cut back some of the roots to encourage root growth and anchoring) and development of strong submersed leaves. Crypts love iron and potassium so make sure you have those root tabs around them. I had just posted some advice regarding this subject with some videos for illustration in another thread yesterday, so you can check these out if you wan (Don't let the title confuse you, I do address the crypts as well)t:

They grow very slowly as long as you don't bury the rhizome in the substrate. Stick it in a crack in wood, or rocks, or you can glue it onto them with super glue. If you do that with a small piece of wood, or a rock you can even move them around. Liquid fertilization, and CO2 will also help, although CO2 is not necessary to get it to grow.

The way you have your measurements listed are off, you listed 10 inches by 4 feet by 4 inches, I take it they are all supposed to be in feet to get to that volume. In any case for a 1,200 gallon tank I would definitely recommend using a large sump with several stages and a pre-filter.

My wife and I enjoy refinishing old furniture as well, first out of necessity when we first got married and finances were always a concern, and now because we love to give old, quality pieces a new lease on life and bring out their beauty.

I don't know how many Watts they put out but it could be the culprit at that distance, problem is if you elevate them more your bottom plants might possibly not get enough light. I don't really think it is anything to worry about from your picture. My mother had a houseplant, a Philodendron, she used to mist the leaves of for years under a plant grow light. It was the healthiest of plants but the tips of the leaves looked like your hyacinths because the intensity of the grow light with the water drops used to just burn those areas, did not diminish the overall awesome looks though.

Hobbit, if you pre-soak the wood for several weeks and keep changing the water every other day you won't have to worry about it staining the water. I pre-soaked my wood for several months actually because some of it is Mopani that releases a lot of tannin but I 'm also not always a fan of the tea colored water, that's why in my 75 gallon with nothing but real wood I now add the Brightwell Aquatics Blackwater Clear Planted/Shrimp with every water change. Technically it's a blackwater tank, without the extreme tea color look.

Thanks! I admit not to be too well versed in the different species of shrimp. I don't have a problem with some of the other color varieties making an appearance, my wife and I consider them a gift, and a surprise.

One more picture of the stumps on the left that are completely covered with Java fern, and Anubias. If you look closely you can make out a few of my Blue Velvet shrimp that photo bombed the picture, also on the left barely a glimpse of the baby Red Flame sword behind the stumps, right next to the CO2 diffuser.

My Bolivian Rams get along with shrimp just fine,and the shrimp with them but when shrimp were first offered for sale for freshwater aquariums and no one knew much about keeping them, and there weren't any books about them I tried introducing them into a tank with 5 Angelfish and they didn't even last a minute, that is in spite of the fact that the tank had several large roots covered all over with Java fern. Those shrimp back then were Amanos, small Amanos but to this day I don't think I'd try to combine the two ever again.

Beautiful fish, those dwarf gouramis have great color, and that Blue Angelfish rocks!

Green Thumbs I believe are the words you are looking for. Goes for aquatic gardeners, and aqua-scapers as well, even it they grow the reddest Rotala macrandra.

He also mentions that Cryrtocoryne parva doesn't like the leaf cutting method, that is true, and I noticed that Cryptocoryne willisii is similar in that respect.

Once you get away from the main growth you've got the real fine ends of the roots. I just picked a YouTube video for illustration for you, at around 9:10 into the video he is preparing a crypt for planting that way: Here is also an illutration from JurijsJutjajevs on the crypt method to avoid melting:

The easiest in my experience are dwarf hairgrass, and Staurogyne repens, micro swords seem to give a lot of beginners with carpet plants problems with algae. I personally like the S. repens, although it needs to be trimmed every once in a while when you plant it as a carpet.

It's worked for me so far for all my plants, and I know you've seen the pictures of my 75 gallon with all my crypts and swords. When I say trim them back I mean just cut off the long fine growth not all the way back, it makes it easier to plant, and encourages new growth, and anchoring. With crypts, if I know that they were raised emersed, which most growers these days tend to do, I also cut the leaves back to just above the rosette, the plant then grows back new submersed leaves immediately and does not go through the famous crypt melt first which is just another stressor on the plant. The trick is though not to move them while they establish themselves, crypts don't like being transplanted, it adds stress. With Anubias you can trim back the roots a little, as long as you don't damage the rhizome. If an Anubias leaf has holes, algae, or any other deficiency I trim the leaf, they will usually grow new small leaves within the next month, if you want the rhizome to grow in another direction, I've been able to get them to do that by giving it a very small nick with a sharp knife just barely into the skin of the rhizome. Anubias are very forgiving as long as the rhizome stays intact and you don't plant it in the substrate. My Anubias keep on flowering every few months.

I have both spiderwood and Mopani in my tank, next to Pacific driftwood, and after six months you can't tell the difference. Real wood is always preferable for the shrimp, the fish, and plants if you add any. Catfish love the wood fiber as much as shrimp, and the tannins, however miniscule they might be if you've pre-soaked the wood are healthy for all living organisms in your tank.