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  1. Jungle Fan, thanks for the recommendation. From the internet picture of the Echinodorus Red Flame, I may already have one of these plants. Is the one I have the Red Flame (image) to which you refer? Indeed, I do enjoy this plant. I am certainly open to additional recommendations, if you might have some off-hand. Also, thanks for the link to taking care of the Purple Waffle (love the name; makes me hungry, too). I must admit, though, the Waffle appears more striking under water (image). This image is one of the now removed-from-the-tank Purple Waffle plants, for eventual transplantation into its natural, terrestrial world. Sorry images are inverted- not a depiction of a novel way for display and growth of aquarium flora.
  2. MDoc- again, I'm most appreciative of your input, and that of others. Looking for the silver lining, I intend to plant the purple waffle plants in a pot, which will join other indoor potted plants. I can assure you that these other potted plants have never been submersed. The purple waffle is a very attractive plant and it will be satisfying to see it flourish (hopefully) where it has truly adapted over the millions of years. I guess the purple waffle plant will also serve as a reminder of sorts, a story to go along with it: there are water plants, land plants, and everything in-between. In any case, the purple waffle plants have been removed and their removal has provided an additional silver lining: a large area of the tank for new planting, with more careful choices being made. Indeed, it will be interesting to hear what the seller has to say.
  3. MDoc- nothing on their site, but I have now contacted them. From the site of another seller is the following (paraphrased): "excellent decorative plant but duration limited to a few months". Perhaps it is time to pull them from the tank before further decomposition and ensuing troubles. Too bad, as they are uniquely attractive. Thanks for the heads-up. I guess I feel less down in that I didn't waste effort on treatment. But, it also points to the larger issue of tank-appropriate plants. In my naiveté, I assumed that if sold as an aquarium plant it would be a true aquarium plant, and not be limited by a "shelf-life", so to speak. Tells me to be cautious and research the plant potentially intended for purchase, particularly if it seems a bit out of the ordinary.
  4. Thanks for the input. And, apologies for what should have been the obvious. The plant was purchased as a bunch from an on-line establishment that has been in business for quite a number of years and has very good reviews. From the invoice and website pictures, the plant is (apparently) Hemigraphis colorata. The plant has actually been planted for 2.5 months. Attached is a top view and top view close-up of one of the stems (2 images). In the images of this particular stem, the more mature leaves remain intact while the younger, immature leaves at center have holes. Seems to be quite variable which leaves are subject to this ailment. While I appreciate what has been offered thus far, I was wondering if there were any further thoughts.
  5. Colu and Kirsten- much appreciated advice and and along roughly similar lines; will (continue) to add the nutrient rich food and will keep an eye on the shells of the snails. Do not intend to add Wonder Shells, not at least at this time and perhaps if something goes awry. Thanks a lot.
  6. In my 10-gal, medium planted tank are 3, Julii Corydoras and, just recently, a total of 10 nerite snails - up from the original 4. I was wondering whether Wonder Shells should be added. In searching the Forum, others have reported that if the water is hard, then there is really no need to add the Shells- with the proviso that amounts of Ca2+ and other elements are not known. Others have reported spikes in hardness following Wonder Shell addition, with recommendations of repeated water changes to lower the hardness of this detrimental environment. Also noted is Cory's recommendation re the amount of Wonder Shell addition, which is far less than the amount specified on the package. In the present case, the water parameters are: 75 degrees temp, KH 4 drops (71.6 ppm; API assay), GH 8 drops (143.2 ppm; API assay), pH 7.6, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 10 ppm (API assay). Thanks.
  7. These stem plants, which I do not know the name of, were planted about a month ago. Holes have been developing and are now present in many of the leaves, but the newer leaves appear to be,, at least generally, hole-less (image). In searching, the reason for holes is insufficient K+. But, if this were the case, this plant must be much more sensitive than others in the tank because they do not have holes. Could the leaves be on the way to falling off due to adaptation to the plant being planted in the tank? The water parameters are 75 degrees temp, KH 4 drops (71.6 ppm), GH 9 drops (161.1 ppm), pH 7.8, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 20 ppm. My second question has to do with roots sprouting from the stem (image). In searching, I found that this is "normal" or, alternatively found that the sprouting is due to insufficient light, Again, if it were insufficient light, this plant must need quite a bit of light, as the other plants are thriving, Appreciate any comments on these two issues.
  8. Will Billy- planted the Cryptocoryne Lutea (sounds like a good I.D.) this morning. Provided root tabs. I'll certainly look for any fungus that might be growing. And, yes, I'd very much like to keep you up-to-date. Thanks again.
  9. Will Billy et al.: An image of the plant is attached. The plant was purchased from Aquarium Co-op. I returned to the purchase list and pictures, but really couldn't see one that fit. Any ideas on what the plant is? And, here's an update on this plant re the fungus. The plant has been without treatment, except for isolation and bathing in water containing added "Growth" nutrient solution and iron (both from Aquarium Co-op), at room temperature and under an LED daylight lamp- 5000K, 10W. To the naked eye, the white fungus appears to be gone except for the one, large leaf shown in the picture. I took a soft tooth brush to the leaf this a.m. and it appears that some of the fungus was dislodged. I plan to gently rub a bit more, tomorrow, and the day after, etc. In the absence of visual fungus, do you think it would be safe to replant the plant without performing any additional, precautionary step? The plant would be in a different aquarium. Also, there is no evidence of fungus in the tank from which the plant was removed and all other plants in this tank are doing well. Thanks.
  10. Thank you gardenman, MDoc, Colu, and MJV Aquatics- for the blog and YouTube videos. After reviewing the material, my bet is placed on bacterial bloom. This diagnosis fits with the whitish haze (no evidence for green color) and the heavy biological load when the stem plants were home to a large infestation of green hair algae, which led to plan decomposition (I should have removed these plants sooner and cleaned them). Further, particulate as the culprit is unlikely because when the tank was set up, the tank was clear for at least a month, that is, at least until the hair algae invasion. As I understand, the recommended solution is patience, i.e., wait it out. In several weeks the water will clear as balance returns to the tank. In the meanwhile, the bacterial bloom would not be expected to negatively impact fish well-being. However, because it has been several weeks already, perhaps the load is so large as to overcome the natural process for removal, which would be anticipated to resolve in this duration. Therefore my thought is to continue the partial water changes, at least for the short term, and see if the problem is corrected. In terms of the extended light duration, which approaches the North Pole 6 months of sunlight scenario, I'll be step-wise decrease the light exposure period. Thanks again. I look forward to any further comment.
  11. Thanks for the feedback. The tank has been set up for about 3 months. The fluorescent tank light is on for 20 hours. There is some daylight coming at an angle at the side of the tank. I realize this is a long light exposure. But I have to add that another tank is exposed to the same amount if light and the water is clear. This other tank has no snails and never had a hair algae growth. I read Cory's blog on the subject. If an algae bloom, then stop water changes and it will go away in a week or two. If particulate, then more syphoning of the gravel and more filtration. Whatever is causing the haziness is very persistent. Any further considerations to distinguish between the two, bacterial bloom versus particulate, or other? Have the nerites been falsely placed under suspicion? Thanks.
  12. There are 5 nerite snails and 3 Julii Cory's in my lightly planted 10-gallon tank. The water is always a hazy whitish. After a water change of 30%, the water is a bit clearer for an hour or two, and then becomes cloudy again. I've performed 25% water changes once a day for a week plus squeezing out the sponge filter in the to-be-discarded tank water, and still have cloudiness. Nitrates are 5-10, and nitrite and ammonia are 0. pH is 7.6 and the temperature is 75 degrees. Food is half an algae wafer per day plus about 4 sinking pellets. A month ago the tank had some stem plants (removed) which became covered in green algae hair. Could there still be a bacterial bloom? Could breakdown of the nerite eggs cause this cloudiness? There are numerous white eggs stuck to the plant leaves, aquarium glass, and filter. After stirring up the water with the syphon's plastic cylindrical end, in order to increase water removal of waste, etc., I can see bits of white floating in the water. The tank water was clear prior to the stem plant algae growth and addition of nerite snails. I'm considering removing the snails and seeing if there is an improvement. Thoughts?
  13. Tried my new $14 pH probe. After 1 point calibration, pH of the aquarium water in the tanks was close to 7,6. This value corresponds, in a sense, to the liquid based colorimetric "high range" assay, in which difficulty in discerning color comparisons yielded a range between 7.6 (or perhaps even 7.4 using the non-high range pH assay) to pH 8. So, the cheapo pH probe looks like it works just fine. Thanks again for your advice.
  14. I deluded myself thinking that the fungus was going away in the isolated plant. Well, at least the fungus is not growing further. I was wondering if this plant could grow not under water. That is, planted in soil, with nutrients, and light source. I have read that many plants for the aquarium are actually commercially grown out of water and was wondering if this were one of those plants. If so, perhaps the fungus would die if not under water.
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