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Knew tooth is

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  1. Hi Roy, thanks for emphasizing that it is the emerging leaves that, hopefully, will now darken as you described. In reviewing images from the web, I can see how comparatively light colored the leaves are of my anubias. I suppose that I partly got away with the relative lack of iron in the water due to the root tabs containing ferrous gluconate. Then the arrival of the bladder snails. These bladder snails have outstayed their welcome and are being shown the door. The mystery snails stay on the bottom leaves of the anubias and on the cryptocoryne, and they don't travel on the java fern. On another note, another problem. In a different tank, a 20 gallon high, I've been unable to prevent the algae from growing on the plant shown in the image. I forget the name of the plant. This plant was growing great guns, with delightful pink leaves on top and then, the dreaded algae struck. I think it's hair algae. This is the only plant in the tank. I wanted to make sure that I didn't get algae before planting additional plants and this plant was growing well. To try resolving the problem, I lowered the amount of light (to "40" on Hygger, don't know how many lumens this represents; 100 is maximum brightness) and the time of light is 8 hours per 24 hour. The plant grows and then, still, is overwhelmed by the algae. I greatly trimmed the plant, down to a couple inches, such that no visible algae remained, but the same story occurred. This is a community tank containing a fat nerite snail, two otocincluses, a panda catfish and an albino catfish, a golden Chinese algae eater, two clown-faced plecos and a few assorted top and middle water column eaters. What to do? In terms of non-live adjustments, cut back more on the light and/or decrease food addition? I have not fed this plant root tabs and I do not use Easy Green and Easy Iron. The plant was doing fine even without these supplements. On the live adjustment side, maybe try a Florida Flagfish- although I read these are too aggressive for a community tank, a different type of snail, a Siamese algae eater? Thanks again.
  2. Dear Matty M, Thanks for your insight. Indeed, want to avoid algae, the nemesis.
  3. Thank you Seattle_Aquarist. Going to start pumping the Easy Iron and Easy Green. And, per your suggestion, if after a month, not obtaining a more greening of the leaves, it's off to Seachem Iron- the pH of the water is alkaline. A striking graph you provided, not much Fe is available with EDTA chelation.
  4. Dear Bigdog99 & Rube_Goldfish- thanks for your responses. I believe you've put the nail through the anubias hole. As far as fertilizer, guilty for not reading the instructions for the use of Easy Green. The course of fertilizer has been Flourish Root Tabs about every 5-6 weeks, but, here's the kicker, spritz of Easy Iron and Easy Green at the 5-6 week mark. Will up the Easy Green and, at the same time, Easy Iron, to darken up that green (re ACO). Thanks much. And, here's to reading instructions!
  5. For the last month or so, small holes have been appearing in my anubias. As you can see from the image, the cryptocoryne next to the anubias remains 'unholey'. A change is that about 4 months ago I unknowingly transported a bladder snail or two upon planting a Java fern purchased from my LFS. The bladder snails have been reproducing (surprise, surprise). Also, the tank contains mystery snails and a plecostomus, and mollies. From my reading, the bladder snails and mystery snails do not feed on live plants, and neither do the plecostomus and mollies. Any thoughts on the hole-maker? Thanks.
  6. Thanks Guppysnail, I forgot to mention that this is new growth.
  7. Could someone please tell me what's going on with my java fern? As shown in the image, the end of one leaf is dark green. Another leaf of this same size is light green throughout. I've looked on the charts'/diagrams for what might be the problem. But I've been unable to find a similar picture on the these diagrams. Any thoughts would be helpful.
  8. Hi JoeQ, The roots look light brown. The image is actually a fair representation of their color. No snail invasion, just one (or maybe two, if alive), small horned snails. Thanks.
  9. Hello. I'm having a problem with my Vallisneria. The original sends out runners and then eventually dies (see arrow in image). The new growths grow just fine for a while, but then the roots become above ground (in image, the new growth in the background). Eventually the new leaves die, although there are new runners. The plant is provided with root tabs about every 3 weeks and Easy Green and Easy Iron about once every 2 weeks . Light is medium LED. I haven't seen any fish dig up the plants or nibble on the leaves. Any thoughts on what's going on? Perhaps Easy Green and Easy Iron could be added more frequently, if this is a problem. Thanks.
  10. Hi Colu, Just an update and a thanks. Blue Gourami eating, not hiding (kanaplex not needed). Fish keeper relieved. Best
  11. Hi Colu, thanks for your comments and questions. The good news is that the Gourami (3 spotted; see picture) is still alive. The less than good news is that the Gourami is still hiding in the corner, comes up for gulps only occasionally, and I don't see it eating. Changed to dried brine shrimp and different flake foods and still haven't seen any eating. The Gourami also used to readily eat the 2 different kinds of bottom pellets (for the pleco's, catfish, otocinclus, and algae eater), but still no sign of eating. The water parameters are: pH 7.4, KH 50-100 ppm (3 drops with API kit), GH 100-200 ppm (10 drops with API kit), ammonia 0-0.25 ppm (similar to tap water), nitrite 0 ppm, nitrate 5 ppm. The picture was taken after placing my hand in the corner where it hides and then it comes swimming out right away. Of course, I dislike doing this stress-inducing maneuver. Didn't used to be like this. About two weeks ago, the Gourami was eating, competing well with the other fish for the food- including mollies with voracious appetites along with several tetras, and swimming steadily and freely throughout the tank, unharassed. There used to be another Gourami in this tank, but the other Gourami was incessantly tail nipping. I moved this other Gourami to another tank and it is continuing to do really well. No new fish have been introduced into this tank. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks.
  12. My beautiful blue gourami, about 5 yrs old, for the past several days doesn't eat and stays in the corner between gulps of air at the surface. Could this be a sign of old age or a disease of some kind? The gourami is in a community tank and all of the other fish are doing fine. Should I move the gourami to another tank by itself? I would hate to cause stress.
  13. AllFishNoBrakes, thanks for the advice. Will start the squishing. I'm looking for that voila experience. You read my mind. re peace of mind. p.s. thumbs up on your handle.
  14. Hi Pepere- thanks for the suggestions. Could the dechlorinator be the one used to condition water? If so, after rinsing, any suggestion for the amount? Interesting that the pads might be simple felt. Perhaps the pads could also be cleaned with peroxide or bleach.
  15. Ziss Air Stone: Does anyone know where the small, circular pads with the hole in the middle, which are inserted between the top and lower portions of the stone (maybe the pads called "diffuser pads") can be purchased separately from the actual "stone" portion? Also, does anyone know what material these diffuser pads are made out of, such that these pads could fashioned? I also have an "UPETTOOLS Aquarium Air Stone Fish Tank Nano Bubble Stone Kit with Control Valve" (see picture). The bubbling has been reduced, presumably due to clogged frits. There is significant algae on the stone top. Algae eaters don't remove the algae, although they can be observed munching away, there doesn't appear to be much of a visible decrease. I've read that bleach diluted with water (1 part:3 parts is one suggestion), or a hydrogen peroxide solution (diluted to 3% is one suggestion) have been used successfully with air stones in general. The solutions follow boiling the stone for 10 min. My concern is the successful, full removal of the bleach/hydrogen peroxide from the cavity just below the stone, i.e., where the air entry port. Thoughts on this or other methods? Thanks.
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