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Wingman12r

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Everything posted by Wingman12r

  1. Wingman12r
    Looks like a rebranded Sun-Sun. Ive had mine up and running for 4-5 years with no issues. Upgrade depends on what your filtration goals are. AC 50 or 70 is a lot of filtration for a 29G, the canister even moreso. Your post history indicates that you've been having issues with nitrates, a canister won't solve that. Adding a plant like Pothos will.
  2. Wingman12r
    @Keeg local pick up is unfortunately not an option. A couple of not so great pco's are my only local option and nearest LFS is 200 miles away. Live foods are not a problem, I have vinegar eels cultures, brine shrimp and just started a infusoria culture.
  3. Wingman12r
    Did you see the worm move? Inspect the anal opening for small red spots. If the infection isn't severe they can be hard to see. After years of having "live-bearer diesese" I never saw a single worm untill I treated with Levamisole from Select Aquatics. With that said I had scares where I saw a red poop thinking it was a camallanus worm only to realize the krill flake and tetra color granules I had been feeding were red in color.
  4. Wingman12r
    I plan on ordering some Scarlet Badis very soon. However seems as if I can only order 1 or 5 at a time. I'm setting up a 10 gallon with a sponge filter and guppy grass to start. I also plan on QT with white clouds. Nerms out there that have kept Scarlet Badis, what was your experience?
  5. Wingman12r
    I wish we had a better LFS. If you ever need anything let me know. I've got Guppy Grass, Narrow Leaf Anacharis, Dwarf Water Lettuce, Java Moss, Vinegar Eel cultures, Malaysian Trumpet Snails, Bladder Snails.
  6. Wingman12r
    I've had beamswork and nicrew and found the Nicrew to be much better. Smaller profile, better light output and color.
  7. Wingman12r
    @UnbracingWhat part if S. Texas? I'm in Laredo.
  8. Wingman12r
    I've had several stop working. Sometimes it just takes a really good shake to get it running again.
  9. Wingman12r
    I had a similar issue when didn't hear the hatchery. I had to extend the hatch to 36-48 hours to get a decent hatch rate. I picked up heater mentioned In this thread, and now have good hatches in 24 hours. I set the temp to 80 and put the heater right in the top.
  10. Wingman12r
    Scarlet Badis is on my will own someday list. They are exclusively micro predators and rarely eat prepared foods. You may want to start culturing infusoria and vinegar eels to help diversify his diet.
  11. Wingman12r
    Paper coffee filters work as sieves, as well as the reusable k-cup replacements with the fine stainless steel mesh. The smallest of brine shrimp get through the mesh and the drain speed is slow so I find the paper filters work better.
  12. Wingman12r
    Greg Sage Tour Goliad Farms Tour No heater Nitrogen cycle Anything with Dean.
  13. Wingman12r
    Very much a good sign.
  14. Wingman12r
    Probably infusoria, commonly cultured from decaying plant matter. With out fish to predate on them the population took off.
  15. Wingman12r
    46:42 Greg discusses Daphnia with Cory.
  16. Wingman12r
    Fans will help a bit, but there will always be a difference. Keep warmer temp species up top and lower temp ones towards the bottom.
  17. Wingman12r
    You may have a dead fish or snail hidden in the tank. Your cycle/plants have been able to keep up with ammonia and nitrite resulting in nitrates.
  18. Wingman12r
    You could feed them spirulina powder and keep alive for a couple of days. The water quality would be my concern. Thousands of tiny shrimp in such small water volume quite the bio load. I feed the live shrimp and freeze the rest in a silicone ice tray with tiny probably .25" cubes. The ice cube tray also works great for repashy portions.
  19. Wingman12r
    I recommend the refrigerator. I found when stored in the freezer the hatch time increased (36 hours) and hatch rate declined. I moved the same batch to the fridge the next batch hatched in 24 hours with a much higher hatch rate.
  20. Wingman12r
    It could go either way. I've had some less colorful males I pulled from the breeding tank and added as dither to another tank that have colored up wonderfully. There could also be some dominance/ pecking order reasons why some don't show good color.
  21. Wingman12r
    What a shame, they are still recovering from the flooding in 2017. I feel so Lucky, living in South Texas I never hooked up my heater. When it was 17° outside and I was struggling to keep the temps inside above 65. I was lucky enough to not lose power/water/gas for long period of time. I don't have heaters on my tanks so when my water temp hit 60° I did 25% water changes with ~73° water. I only lost 1 female Endler. So very very Lucky.
  22. Wingman12r
    Patience, everything takes time. From cycling, plants, growing out fry, to treatment ailments. Everyone is going to have a different way of accomplishing the same task, sometimes that method will for for you and sometimes it won't. You have to find what works for you.
  23. Wingman12r
    A small group of male Endlers would be a good alternative to guppies. They are a bit smaller in size but have just as much character.
  24. Wingman12r
    Always assume guppies are pregnant. That first one is getting close to dropping her fry. If you want to save as many fry as possible you can place her in a breeder box with some moss and duck weed. Raising the temp a few degrees will help her along. First bites or crushed flake will be fine starter food. Otherwise she will drop on her own but the fry will be snacks. Also works as a way to help keep the population from getting out of control.
  25. Wingman12r
    Hatchet fish tend to like it a bit warmer and prefer groups to shoal with.
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