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Found 24 results

  1. I went fishing and found a slow part of the river. The amount of fry snails daphnia scuds and other critters was impressive. It was all feeding off of 8 inches of mulm. Really let's you know that your tank doesn't have to be spotless.
  2. Hello 🙂 My water is super green from algae so I figured I'd try to introduce some daphnia. Does anyone know where I can get it in Seattle in December? All the Ebay options seem to be coming from overseas and I think it's too cold to ship. Thanks 🙂
  3. So last year during quarantine I decided to scratch the itch I've had for feeding live food to my fish, I bought everything I needed but work and life got stressful (2020 am I right?) and I didn't start things how I intended. I ended up with a pair of Apistogramma Cacautoides that decided their quarantine tank was good enough to breed in even with out caves or real hiding spots. I just filled it with plants. I decided since I've never raised fry before to give it a try. It was also my first time having Apistos so I was kinda hedging my bets that If mess up with the parents maybe some of the babies will make it. That ended up being a very good decision but I digress. Since I suddenly had fry I needed to be able to feed them. Luckily I already had the brine shrimp. I never did get around to getting the large Ziss hatchery that I wanted as it was sold out at the time and i also wasn't sure that was something I needed for a single tank just to occasionally provide live food to my fish. In the end I was more than tired of constantly having to hatch brine to feed the babies. I ended up looking up other alternatives and my research eventually lead me to daphnia. In fact when I learned that daphnia can be raised in the same water parameters as my aquarium and will last in the tank until eaten I was sold. On top of that they continuously breed so they do all the work for you. (assuming you don't suffer major crashes) they have a fairly good nutritional value as well. (not quite as high as newly hatched brine). And from the information i was able to find online, newly hatched daphnia are smaller than newly hatch baby brine shrimp. Making them just as suitable if not more-so as food for small fry. My only frustration was the brief learning curve and my initial two crashes. I'm now on my third attempt which seems to be off and running. And I've started feeding them to my community tank as well as using them to help the last of the apisto babies finish growing out before I move them to the community tank like their siblings. Shorter summary: For my particular use case, supplemental live food for a single tank and/or use in a quarantine/hospital/fry tank. Culturing daphnia seems to be easier than constantly restarting with my brine shrimp dish. ( i know it would possibly be easier with more common methods) Not that brine shrimp is difficult at all but assuming I can keep a culture going then there is no more work to do than on my main tank. Occasional water change/occasional siphoning of the daphnia and snail mulm. I'm curious to hear from others that have tried both live foods. Have you had success with culturing Daphnia? Do you prefer the ease and reliability of hatching bbs over the uncertain but continuous culturing of daphnia?
  4. Now that I feed live baby brine shrimp on the reg, I want to add another live food to the rotation. Any suggestions on reputable places of where you get good Daphnia cultures from?
  5. Finally the 5 gallon buckets behind the garage are starting to fill with mosquito larva, yay! If you watch closely you will also notice Daphnia swimming around in there also (which I didn't add to the buckets). You know how you make your own sour-dough mother culture just by putting flour and water on the porch outside for a few days and wild yeasts waft in and those yeasts get your sour-dough mother culture started. I think it is like that with buckets of water. I think the Daphnia eggs just waft in on the air.
  6. Hi I got my hatchery today from here and am wondering if this would work for daphnia, as well. Will buy two more, if so. Ty!
  7. When feeding live foods to fish, I often hear people talk about feeding the culture nutritional foods to make sure the fish are getting good nutrition. I often hear @Cory talk about feeder fish lacking nutrients due to poor diet and health. Would it not make sense then to feed daphnia and other live feeder cultures foods that are nutritionally balanced for fish like quality fish foods and vitachem etc?
  8. In my daphnia tank there is some clear fungus growing on some of the daphnia and the airline tubing it also has a bad smell is the normal or should i treat it. Thanks
  9. Well, after my tilapia nightmare a while back I have left my big tanks full of water and daphnia and some guppy grass to really get all that stuff balanced out. They are outside (tucson arizona), so it does save me a bill this winter for heating all that. From the water come the alge, from the alge come the daphnia, and from the daphnia come the guppies. Well, food chain wise. In plans for the spring i put a 3 something gallon tank on my office desk to breed out guppies and start the fish cycle over again. -- Today I saw little fry swimming around. While I have added guppies to water before and saw more appear, this is the first "up close" experience I have had with the tiniest of fry. I can see why grown guppies would see these fry guys as delicious marshmallows. Hopefully the fry that learn how to hide in some guppy grass will be the strong ones. Currently have a 3.something gallon tank on my desk. It has duckweed and waterlettuce of some variety on top. Guppy grass for low-mid covering, and hydroton (superheated clay pellets) as substrate. Mainly it was a "grab whats in the garden, add water and guppies, mix in daphnia daily" tank. So far the results are pretty good, with some screw ups along the way. Mainly the thing i overlooked coming into a smaller tank environment was that the ph 'style' changes. Outside I will get sometimes even as much as a 1.5 ph swing between dawn and sunset. But the PH in a smaller tank has a harder time 'swinging' back up (less acidic) I think. Some guppies started swimming funny, so I got the test strips out. I had gotten some neat $3 guppies from petsm--err, "not LFS" to make sure I wasn't going to add to potential tragedy by having paid shipping on them if they die. Well, they died. But they taught me that a good pinch of baking soda will help the tank in a few ways, and provide near instant relief for guppies getting "burnt" by people who let their PH get to 6 before they notice the guppies don't look right. I didn't want to just dump a clump of baking soda in there, as crazy ph swings are bad, but i did put in 2gsp (good sized pinches) of baking soda every 12-18 hours or so. This was actually probably more than i should have, but i noticed if i put it in slowly enough for the 'baking soda water' to form on one side, the fish all immediately swam toward it to be in it. So i think there is some truth to the idea of 'it helps'. I had to do this over the next few days, as the ph would come back up to 6 almost daily. Nothing else looked out of place on the test strip, only ph seemed to be stubborn. More daily doses of baking soda. the PH leveled out after about 5 days of this, stays at about 7.4 now, and has a "tiny swing" between morning and night. So, whew, water safety achieved. Id like it to be lower, around 8.2ish as this is better for a few reasons i have planned... I ordered from some place online Dwarf Baby Tears - to carpet the hydroton 2 Marimo Moss balls -- to be furniture on the carpet Wondershell -- because I believe in wonder Easy fry and small fish food, in a convenient squeeze bottle - just in case my fry are more hungry than I anticipate Easy green 'all in one' fertilizer - because I'm sure the plants will need a squirt or two, right now i detect no nitrates. 😕 I can at least go catch "the best" guppies and throw them in this tank to preserve their looks over time. The err, 'fancy breeder box' i guess it is. I put extra daphnia in the tank when i noticed fry. Just to minify their chances of getting eaten. I believe that the guppies do need to eat "some" of the fry as the natural process would allow, but I don't know enough about ethics from the perspective of a fish to know what I am talking about there really. Best I can do is say "they seem to do that" and allow it. I don't want them all to be gobbled up! With the carpeting plant and midrange plants and top floaters I hope that its a good combination for stability. Pictures attached of the tank as it is now. If its not a disaster I will upload it when it gets planted, and when it stabilizes.
  10. I've got 2 completely green 5 gallon tanks and a 20L that leans green all the time, sometimes worse than others. And my 55-gallon has been murky for 2 weeks and I'm wondering if it's going green too. So...I'm a little frustrated and want to find a way to clear it. Have any of you ever done this? Added daphnia to a tank that had green water? Did it work? I'm thinking I wouldn't need very many and then the fish will enjoy them as a treat too. Any advice on trying this method of clearing the water? And I do have a reserve of green water brewing in another bucket, and will be setting up a tank for green water eventually. Thanks everybody.
  11. Hey Guys, I constantly see people have Cherry Shrimp living in their Daphnia colony. Is there a benefit to either animal?
  12. Brought home some blue velvet shrimp and tiger snails. Within a week I’ve got pond snails, hydra, copepods and seed shrimp. It’s a new 14.5 gallon aquarium that I cycled for 6 weeks. Lots of plants, spiderwood and dragon stone. Water parameters were normal. Suddenly I’ve got lots of hair algae as well... What to do? I feel like starting over is an option? Should I remove plants and treat with peroxide and replant in a bleached tank? Ugh. Not sure how to salvage with so many pests.
  13. Today we picked out 4 nice koi with the help of owner Joe Granato at Star Ridge Aquatics in Carthage, NC . Two of the koi were long-finned, and two were the traditional Japanese type koi. The traditional koi were my favorites because the colors were more intense. Once released one of the koi just wouldn't swim with the other three fish, so we named him 'Derpy'. We also picked out a dozen edge plants including, pickerelweed, dwarf cattails, Sagittaria, Myriophyllum, various rushes, and hardy lilies. And notice the green water? I also added an additional batch of wild caught daphnia. I hope the exponential growth of the daphnia can catch up with the exponential growth of the green water. Finally, I added a few corys cats and guppies. I will add more later when I have had a chance to see how these initial introductions fare. The pH measured at 6.93 and the upper layer of the water in the pond read 84 °F although it was much cooler 4 feet below the surface. Not surprisingly the koi preferred to stay lower in the water column most of time.
  14. I have been trying to set up a Daphnia, tank for stable food supply. I have not seen much growth let alone the prolific growth your article: https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/daphnia-culturing-how-to-raise-daphnia describes here despite strict adherence to your recommendations from the article. I have an aqueon 50 on this tank with one of aquarium coops coarse foam filters covering the intake ( and an airstone) Could I be killing the Daphnia, with this filter? Matt
  15. AJE

    Daphnia

    What is the best advice for a daphnia culture? Do I put them in direct sunlight?
  16. How do you all feed frozen daphnia, the little square pieces kind? I have a new (two weeks) 20 gallon tank with tetras, Lambchop Rasboras, 1 reticulated hillstream loach, 2 honey Gouramis, 4 Amano shrimp. It is a planted tank, and the water test numbers are consistently good. I have seen advice that says thaw first, other that says just shave off the amount you need and drop it right in. Other advice mentions that the water they come in may be high in PO4. Thoughts? Thanks!
  17. You might be a nerm if the highlight of your morning was finally capturing on video that Daphnia green bowel movement that you had been patiently filming for so long trying to capture the moment. Exclaims to wife 'Honey, honey! I got the Daphnia poo! I got the Daphnia poo! Come look!"
  18. I have a pond of about 20 ricefish but it seems that they don't eat too much. I've seen videos of them aggressively eating food but mine aren't very aggressive eaters. I feed them good food (Tetra flakes, Hikari Micro Pellets, and frozen baby brine shrimp). How do you guys keep your ricefish? Do you guys have specific parameters? All my other fish love to eat this food but the ricefish don't seem too interested. I don't know if it's the temperature? (Average temp in California is around 70-80 so the water is around that area) I just am trying to get them big so I can breed them and make them happy.
  19. I have been experimenting with Daphnia in different containers and feeding different recipes this summer. To jump to the end my conclusions are basically keep them cool and keep it simple. Nothing really new or profound there for experienced live food aquarists. I am on a live food for aquariums group on FB which gave a lot of good advice on recipes in particular. The consensus in that group was primarily to feed green water or there are some very specific precipices involving spirulina and different organic flours that work. The issue is the successful recipes are more complex (meaning 4-6 ingredients) and you have to be very precise and consistent in your feeding and cleaning. My own experiments with these recipes has born this out. With green water you can be much more imprecise and the chance of crashing your culture is much lower than with the other recipes. Especially yeast which is the easiest way to crash your culture. My most successful culture was in a 15g outdoor container pond that only had frogbit whose shade helped cool the water. The pond had gone super green water when I put the starter culture in and they exploded. I was feeding them to my goldfish almost everyday. Then of course I put in an Endler trio and eventually they and their progeny ate all the Daphnia. However that took a long time and was good for them so still win-win. I don't have room for more containers in our very small backyard here in Brooklyn so now I am raising a couple of batches in the basement and feeding only green water. In another experiment I have taken two 1 gallon glass jars, added rigid airline tubes for aeration, filled them with green water (grown outside with grass clippings) and added just a few Daphnia to only one jar. Below is a photo of the two jars after a week. I put a sheet of white paper behind them to help see the color. In real life the color is greener than this BUT the contrast in lightness of color is accurate. Interestingly the darker color jar on the right is the one with Daphnia who have now reproduced. The lighter color jar on the left has no Daphnia. This may be due in part to the jar with no Daphnia not having enough light to fuel algae growth, it may be there were fewer nutrients in the water to start or something else. I am now going to try adding EasyGreen to the empty jar to see if that helps grow some more free floating algae. I am also going to rig up another setup using 2L bottles on the SF Bay Brine Shrimp Hatchery Kits (these from the Coop: https://www.aquariumcoop.com/products/brine-shrimp-hatchery-kit) with extra light to see how that does. In one bottle I will add regular green water and in the other I am going to try a freshwater phytoplankton culture, probably Chlorella, to see how those do. I will also feed these. More to come including an idea for a drip feed system I am working on. My 15g container on top that grew the Daphnia so well and my 40g goldfish container pond below.
  20. I am excited to post my introduction on the AQC forums. Hello to all the nice fish people I have met in previous chats on youtube and elsewhere! Also hello to any mean fish people who would like to become nicer fish people by observing this community's behavior. 😉 I'm pretty new to the 'online fish stuff' cyberfold but one of the reasons I stuck around was not so much because of the interactions I had with the community, but the interactions I observed other people having within the community (on youtube livechats at least). I saw a naturally tolerant focused space, willing to nourish the collective knowledge of the people who participate in it. This is good, and rare. Maybe it's because there is a curated set of topics that are 'safe' lest you warm up the ban hammer. "Talk fishy stuff or go home" seems to be a bit of wisdom passed around here. I like these things, and am a bit nervous to see what happens too late at night on the Off Topic section, and other areas on the "fringe of fish". But this also brings me to the point of saying hi, sharing some text, and hoping to offset any reduction in the density of helpful information in this brave new form of a fish forum. I suppose the best way to convey this is with a story... There is a high-volume tank setup using multiple IBC totes in my back yard. These are typically used in aquaponics to hold larger volumes of water than fish tanks. Mainly because people who eat the fish don't want to watch them the same way as people who love them as pets. But also, Imagine the cost of a 1155 gallon fish tank... Ouch. I should also say for character purposes that I land in the middle between pet and food. I think its perfectly acceptable to love and care for the food that you eat, so that it can be the best food it can be. The intended philosophy of the setup is "balanced systems enhance each other". Aquaponics seemed like a great place to start with that kind of thinking, so that's why I have big plastic things in my back yard instead of traditional tanks. I'll go into the system details in another post. I wanted to focus on some terrible disasters I have managed to create for myself and pass around some information that, well, would have helpful had I learned it before I had to learn it this way. The base things about my setup to know for context for now: Some edible above-water plants (lettuce, herbs, etc) Greenwater (very green) Daphnia Fancy guppies Blue nile tilapia White nile tilapia Guppy grass Water lettuce Ramshorn snails Pond "pest" snails Scuds Detritus worms ..Whatever other water critters the wind blows in. All the trouble started when I thought I was being clever. My friend gave me his old swimming pool. It was one of those Walmart specials, 800 gallons or so. I couldn't pass up all that free tank real estate! I should have. I called the pool my new "fish grow out tank" and was impressed with myself. The next problem was when the fish I was growing out had babies. It happened in what felt like a week of giving them all that extra room. Thousands of fry swimming around two or three distinct spots in the pool. I imagine three mother tilapia were keeping their distance from each other. Again, green water so I have no idea what it looks like 'in the tank' beyond an inch or two of water depth. The green water was good for the fry as it protected them from being excessively eaten/seen by other larger fish. The fry also seemed to eat the little bits in the green water, as their poop was mostly green. When the fry were big enough, I netted them out carefully and put them in one of the open totes to raise them to be bigger fish. -- You can't catch all the fry this way... So I left some snacks for the bigger fish. Crisis averted! Breeder skillz unlocked! First successful brood making it out of the tank and living. Life was good for a few weeks. The pool ring on top pops one night. Waste and refill 300 gallons of water, but no losses of fish etc. I water change by watering my 'normal garden', but that isn't a huge space compared to the water volume. Patch the inflatable pool part with aquarium silicone, fill in water as normal: straight from the garden hose, but trickled so as to blend in with the other thousand+ gallons. Repeat holes in the pool top. Three or four times. It happens at night a lot... what is going on? Finally figure out that the tilapia are popping the inflatable pool top. Dangit! Need to think of new outgrow tank solution soon so I don't keep waking up to water everywhere in the backyard. Thinking on it. ... weeks pass. Pool pops again. *sigh* Patch the pool but this time its different. The plastic is very very brittle. I'm surprised it hadn't given out completely already. It was either some complex long reaction with the aquarium silicone and this particular plastic or the intense Arizona sunlight, but the popped pool was pooped. I decided I should move the tilapia from the pool back to the IBC totes. Again, thinking I was clever, this would give me a chance to sort them in order of small, medium, and yum. I ate my first two fish from my setup. This is is a golden highlight, despite my epic failures I will get to soon and minor frustrations I have omitted, this was a milestone. I noticed the plants were doing well, but not as well as they had been... Ok, so test. PH AM: 6.5 PM: 7.5 Nitrates: 160+ Nitrites: 0.5 Ammonia: "Ideal" Seems fine for a system that wants excessive amounts of nitrates for plant growth, and a high PH (acidic) in the morning for optimum nutrient exchange with the plants. (In traditional indoor aquariums the nitrates would be much lower) Hmm, ok. After some time nitrate levels went up even though the plants weren't growing. My test needs adjustment... but how. Oh, a good number of unexpected fry, now weeks later and larger had made their way into every possible container and were nibbling down the roots of my plants! There is no test strip for this. The larger fish seemed to leave the roots alone, but the little ones loved it to the point of distressing the plants. Plants have trouble growing without roots. Problem identified. While netting out the smaller fish back into the 'small fish tank' I noticed the bigger fish looked 'slow'. Not unhappy, they had clear eyes, were eating, etc. Just a little 'lackluster' maybe. Ill keep an eye on it... I figured that they were still unhappy from their move from 800 gallons to 350 gallons (over three totes). There was enough space between each fish and the gallonage math I did made sense to me... But a mistake I made is not considering how the fish felt i think. Call it the farmer's forgetfulness, but these things just got a super downgrade on their living space collectively. One person only needs so much space to live mathematically, but imagine 200 people accustomed to a large space being cramped into a three-story apartment building where not only was their space smaller, but now their paths cross with another person every time they look around. Even the green water that was getting greener and greener was no help to relax them from seeing each other. But I wasn't really aware of how bad this would get. As far as I thought, the plant roots would grow now, the plants would 'pick up the slack' and the system would normalize all 'aquaponics wizard' style. Fish are eating less now. I notice a bit or two of uneaten food. Very strange, they usually eat it all, or at least there isn't enough left over that the snails don't take care of... So this means that even with the snails there is now excess food. Hmm... Soon it was clear the fish were eating abnormally less. At this point I start to realize green water is good, but I need to see my fish for other reasons -- like health. They were still coming to the surface to eat, but were not excited to eat even though I knew they weren't eating a lot. As a last hope of something good, I thought maybe females were not eating because they were holding eggs in their mouth and that would mean they eat less... That story let me sleep comfortably at least. I notice a fish with a cloudy eye swimming. Can't catch him, but saw him once or twice over a day. Test the water. PH AM: 6 PM: 8 Nitrates: 80+ Nitrites: 0 Ammonia: "safe" The PH is swinging far too wildly. Green water makes your ph swing a lot, kindof like a battery charging and discharging from the sun. In the mornings its acidic and in the evenings its more basic. Tilapia like 8 or even 9. Fish don't like 6, but fish especially don't like 6 then 8 then 6 then 8. The transitions in PH is almost more stressful than being at the "wrong PH" I would say. Given the PH is swinging this wildly, I thought i could help buffer it with some alkaline stuff like baking soda or wonder shell (plug). I did baking soda first, and then failing that a wonder shell. Still didn't stabilize. I had at this point driven up my hardness and alkalinity and nothing changed, which was not supposed to be the case. I could only think that all that green water must have been actually swinging and suspending that PH across the entire tank. That's a lot of energy exchange! It was thinking over this I noticed the green water had what looked like a very very fine green chalk powder in it. "Well at least the green water is doing good..." but I also knew I had to figure out a way to dial it back because it reminded me of smoke in the air. Water PH continues to swing wildly while I wait for my green water clean up team to arrive in the mail -- Daphnia. I kept them inside a 5 gallon bucket that I kept inside the tank. It kept the main daphnia colony safe while keeping the temperature the same as the tank water. I made sure to take in as little water as possible from the shipping water. I drained and strained the daphnia but they were still a little wet putting them in the 5 gallon bucket. When the daphnia came to the surface in the morning I poured more water into the bucket, allowing some daphnia to fall over the brim of the bucket. This way I could preserve and feed a colony inside the bucket while sending daphnia out into the greater wilds of my tank to eat down some of this green water and populate. Ok, multiple things went wrong, but I'm on the right track here. Now to get back on the rails and get the plants growing again. Cloudy eye'd fish has a friend who also has a cloudy eye now and they are swimming funny. "Something is wrong, and getting wronger." Keep testing water, no reduction in the PH swing or other bad news. Eject! Massive water change freakout. I drained probably 400 gallons of water into my yard and slowly let the hose fill it back up over the next two days. I then did this again a few days later. figured if anything, chlorine will be a less-than-ideal antiseptic for the fish and the 800 gallon water change will flush out most of the bad scary things I'm blindly running from by changing water. Green water is a bit more clear now from the water change. About a week later I find a dead fish, stiff. Not dead long, but for sure not alive. I have a little private moment to myself and plant him under the banana tree. I also noticed cloudy eye and his friend got better, or maybe one got better and i just buried the other. Either way, it seems my sick fish count is zero now. A few days later I see three fish swimming funny again, and its the same thing that cloudy eye had caught. I decide to net them out alive and see whats wrong. They were swimming so badly it was easy to catch them in the net. Their eyes are slightly clouded but not puffy. Fins are not damaged like finrot, but have little bloody spots around the base. It looks like it itches. Fish do not like it being touched around their fins, more so than normal. My hunch is bacteria, and some youtube videos loosely confirm that. I'm equipped with a few fancy dip strips, but not a full lab here. Guessing my way through google, I stumble on some really good links that I will share at the end. They didn't reveal the solutions to my problem though... Even more fish are swimming funny, and green water is approaching its previous green-ness at a very fast pace. Daphnia have not taken hold in the system yet. More fish are sick. Then more fish. Then lots of fish, then even more fish. It was a very terrible week for my tanks and I'll spare you the details here, but I was left with about 50 'strong fish' plus a few hundred fingerlings that had grown to the length of a credit card. Strangely none of the bacteria or sickness hurt the younger fish. In my optimism I thought that this could be a system regulation, now all the fish have room, now there is less stress, and I have the strongest fish left. Wrong. Even the strong fish started to get slow now, and I feared the process was about to happen again. It was. I was going to fight it. I realized netting these fish out into a quarantine tank was going to be more of the same stress on them, so decided to dose the whole tank with iodine. ... Which you have to be very very careful with. It will kill a human if they drink it, but it is an antiseptic that well, is within budget. In some far eastern countries they use it in fish farms, but not sure about other regions. So now I am a doctor, ok? (joke) I apply the iodine to the sump tank slowly, a few small squirts every 6 hours or so of daylight. This seemed to go well. I noticed the snails did not like this, and had a small snail die off but nothing larger than weather changes bring. The fish seemed more active, but that was likely due to iodine cleaning the gills. Hopefully it more of a tickly burn, and judging on their swimming it wasn't extreme. Whew... ok, this might be over. Nope. One morning many fish are dead. This time its the small fish, and their symptoms are different. I clean out the group of them. They all appear to be freshly dead, except one young fish that was dead for maybe a day or two longer. Ok, so maybe this is just a fish that died and got others sick? Hmm... Over the next few days a second massive die off happened with this second sickness. The eyes got cloudly but also bulged very far out. Again, turning to the internet I found information linked below for streptococcosis, which seemed to match everything I had seen in the second die off. I begin to fear that my iodine sterilization worked too well, and disrupted the bacterial balance that was preventing even worse things from infecting the fish. As it happens, most of the terribly scary diseases are present in the water already. The outbreaks happen when the fish are vulnerable enough to become infected, or conditions for the bad diseases becomes optimal. Seemed to me that killing off a lot of bacteria with iodine made the conditions more favorable to the bad diseases, but not sure. All I really know is that now my little fish are sick. In what felt like less than a week the outbreak had killed all but a few of my little fish. I'm down to about 20 fish total. The second sickness was far more acute and terrible than the first. Something tells me fish don't get streptococcosis unless there is something terribly terribly wrong with their environment. The daphnia at this point have caught up, and with the reduced fish waste, the green water is looking slightly less green. The remaining fish seem stable and healthy. As the water continues to clear, it becomes brown-ish. I believe this is because the green water ran out of nutrients (fish poop) to sustain itself before the daphnia could consume it all. Hopefully the scuds will eat it now as it falls to the bottom and mixes in with the other muck. In all that, I would like to pass on these points in the context of the story above: When in doubt, test the water. When the water test does not reveal your problem, question your assumptions about why you are testing. Green water makes the PH swing acidic (low) in the morning and basic (high) at night Green water provides an optimal environment for fry, but has other downsides. Visual inspection of fish is required unless there is extreme skill is involved. Large PH swings can stress fish, but some stress is ok. The math for happy-fish-per-gallon only applies if the fish are not previously accustomed to larger volumes. Bacterial infections do not indicate 'lots of bacteria' in the water, but rather that the fish have become stressed enough to become vulnerable. Fingerling fish seem to have a higher tolerance to bacteria and other disease than fry or or adult fish. Reduction in the amount of food eaten is not always bad, but should be seen as a heavy indicator for other sickness. Over-correcting an unbalanced system will catapult fish stress into the danger zone. Be careful of the types of plastic/glues that are used. Some may react in strange ways over time. Just because some information does not reveal a solution to your specific problem does not mean it is bad information. Pregnant humans may want to take caution when fish keeping, as the baby may be vulnerable to certain fish diseases. http://www.fao.org/fi/static-media/MeetingDocuments/TiLV/dec2018/p15.pdf https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2687030/ Finally, I'm happy to answer any questions, or observe any corrections but please direct message me as this is an introduction thread. Feel free to reply with all the hellos, howdys, hi-yas, and other greetings though. 🙂
  21. Hi There, Newby here UK based, I'm looking at starting a Daphnia Culture in a 20 gallon tank to eventually feed my Koi and also to go in my Wildlife pond. I've read the excellent article on site but my questions are i'm planning on having it indoors but i also want to have freshwater shrimp in it to also feed my koi and the wildlife pond. Is this possible and if so need a suitable breed of shrimp ( what i can get hold of in the UK) Thank you in advance Tony
  22. I just started raising a small daphnia culture. Assuming I can propagate it successfully, how much can I feed my betta and how often? Can I offer several large ones on a daily basis or should I skip days? Are there signs to look for to know I need to cut back? He will also be getting betta balls. My betta will only eat hakari betta balls and live foods. He refuses frozen blood worms, freeze dried treats, betta flakes and all other brands of betta balls. He's also a terrible fin chewer (as evident in this photo). Hunting for live foods gives him some distraction from fin chewing. He liked mosquito larvae this summer and it seems like daphnia makes a good live food to try to culture for him. I only have him and some endler's so I'm about to have a lot of daphnia and not a lot of fish to feed them to.
  23. Hi, my name is AJE. I'm from Guatemala and I have 4 fish tanks, a pond and a daphnia barrel
  24. Hey all: I've dabbled unsuccessfully with daphnia in the past, and I'm looking forward to trying again pretty soon. But I'm getting into a little "analysis paralysis" while trying to pick a strain. What is your experience with regard to ideal sizes for breeding? My biggest fish are full-sized congo tetras and my smallest are juvenile multies, rummy-nose tetras, and pea puffers. What's your thinking on the most optimal all-around daphnia strain for these circumstances? If hardiness is a factor, that would make a difference for me too. 🙂 Thanks!
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