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Chick-In-Of-TheSea

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Everything posted by Chick-In-Of-TheSea

  1. My big leafed anubias are green algae magnets. The small anubias (nana) don’t have the issue.
  2. Had you read the whole study or just the abstract & the title? Let's not derail @dangerflower's thread any more, as we are going too off topic from what was initially posted. Again, it's best to research on your own if you are curious about ammonia binding, or perhaps you can start a new thread here on the forum about the specific questions you have so that others can weigh in with their knowledge and experience as well. I love your curiosity and just remember, at the end of the day, we all want the same result - nice healthy creatures in our aquariums to love and enjoy. ❤️
  3. Oh no, what now? 😆 These are not visible to the naked eye; you can only see them w/ a microscope. I fed these in biology class in high school for extra credit, and I documented my findings. They looks like little ovals with an alcove (for lack of a better term) on the side, and they would vacuum up the food (yeast that I dyed red) that I fed them. Slurp!! The paramecium were found within a droplet of lake water though, which I put on a slide. I will tag @Guppysnail because she seems to have all sorts of miscellaneous knowledge about microfauna. She helped me with my recent debacle this weekend. That one is over in my mystery snail eggs & inverts journal, but the short version is I was inspecting every bit of detritus I vacuumed out of the tank, worried that I sucked up baby shrimp, and then I was returning, one by one, copepods and ostracods to the tank because I thought they were the little shrimps. (I know. What a dum dum... I flopped on the couch and cried over it before learning the things were NOT little shrimp. 😅 )
  4. You'd have to go into the studies to find the specific name of the chemicals or compounds @Pepere; I don't memorize the terminology - I leave that up to the science nerds, LOL. 🙂 I encourage you to research on your own if you are curious. It is best to go straight to the source rather than have a middleman attempt to interpret data for you. Let us know what you find out!
  5. Here's the citation for reference. Urakawa, Hidetoshi, and Aaron J. Sipos. "Application of the consortia of nitrifying archaea and bacteria for fish transportation may be beneficial for fish trading and aquaculture." Aquaculture Research 51.8 (2020): 3429-3442
  6. You have a real knack for theming tanks @xXInkedPhoenixX including mum's tank! I quite like those Hygger lights. If you've never had one before, you're going to love the 24/7 mode. It will gently wake up your tank with a sunrise, dim, then it goes a click brighter, and maybe another click brighter, then does the same thing for daylight, and then the daylight also goes dimmer, dimmer, later on and then finally it does moonlight, and then dimmer, dimmer, off.
  7. Yes, of course. If you are willing to put in the time to research you can find it. One such study was published in 2020 by Hidetoshi Urakawa who is an Ecology and Environmental Studies professor at Florida Gulf Coast University. One topic of the study was to determine the benefits and/or ill effects on binding compounds in dechlorinators. The concern was that, as transportation of fish in bags increased, fish were exposed to inevitable ammonia buildup in those bags as the aquarium hobby became more popular. Not surprising that this study was published during the year of COVID lockdowns which brought in a fair number of new hobbyists. I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that hobbyists find water changes distasteful. Some may. I enjoy them. The discussion above regarded keeping a certain level of meds in a quarantine tank, and how different hobbyists treat ammonia/nitrite spikes when medication kills bacteria. Some hobbyists are uncomfortable with measuring partial doses of medication, and there is also a concern of the potency of new meds going in vs. the meds that were already in the tank, as the in-tank meds already had some time to degrade. As well as how med potency factors would affect the fish as well. What I love about this forum is that each person brings a different point of view or idea, and that we can all share and learn from each other. No two tanks are the same - there are different creatures, microflora and microfauna, different substrates, different plants, and different maintenance methods. I learn something new every day on here. A few of the additives are listed in this document from Carleton University. https://www3.carleton.ca/fecpl/pdfs/Surgery Handbook - Brown et al 2010.pdf#page=45
  8. Cory explains how it works in this video (1:51 - 2:40). Also this is on the Seachem FAQ page: How long does Prime® stay bound to the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates? A: Prime® will bind up those compounds for up to 48 hours. If they are still present after that time frame, they are released back into the water, unless Prime® is re-dosed accordingly. Also, if your ammonia or nitrite levels are increasing within a 24-hour period, Prime® can be re-dosed every 48 hours. Source: https://www.seachem.com/prime.php
  9. You do but you're not supposed to look at it so that your unboxing is a surprise. 🙂
  10. Which ones? That stinks. I thought I was doing something good for them. All parameters were the same on the tests I mentioned but I don't have any calcium test kit so I don't actually know what the calcium level is. I just throw a little chunk in about every 3 weeks or so. I will discontinue use of these on the shrimp tank just in case that is the cause. The poor little guys.
  11. @Fish Folk I appreciate the videos and the narrative. It's fascinating to follow along, and I love the fry container that you made. It's nice & neat. I wonder how you got the styrofoam so neat. Mine always sheds a bunch of beads when I try to cut it. Are you pushing water into the fry box with a fountain pump or are you just allowing water to swish in & out through the coarse sponge?
  12. It is a sad day at Chick’s house. 2 shrimp have passed. All parameters & tank temp are spot on. 0/0/5. PH 7, kH 80, gH 180. One shrimp was on the substrate, the other in a terra cotta cave. All other shrimps are busy doing their daily chores. The shrimps I found were pink/coral color, like a cooked shrimp. But again all other shrimp are ok. The only thing I could think of that I did differently was I added detritus back into the tank the other day when I thought I sucked up baby shrimp in error (was ostra-something and copepod thingies not shrimp). Anyway I wonder if all the dust floating around, maybe they breathed it in? I really don’t know. I also carefully test temp of new water going in. Water changes are 10% once or twice a week.
  13. Oddly enough I found some meds in Walmart. I think Kanaplex was there? They even had Jungle Fungus clear fizz tabs. Cheap too. The fry are adorable. Do they just eat easy fry food?
  14. It’s a bandaid fix; it’s really best to do water changes if you can, but if medicating, I get it. You don’t want to dilute the meds. Prime detoxifies ammonia. When medicating and I have ammonia I dose prime daily because it does wear off in a day or two; it’s just that I’m never sure when it wears off. Regardless of whether the ammonia is toxic or detoxified, you’re going to get an ammonia reading with your test kit.
  15. Hang in there @nabokovfan87 and don’t forget to sit down and enjoy the tanks for a little bit without doing anything to them, just to take a breather. You’re doing great.
  16. For what it’s worth, I’ve kept snails on black gravel. Mine was rocks though. If yours is actually quartz and not just branded as quartz it could be different. I eventually capped my gravel with a 2” Layer of pool filter sand because I wanted the additional filtration and so nutrients such as root tabs would not wash away from plant roots. Plus I wanted a more natural look.
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