Jump to content

nabokovfan87

Members
  • Posts

    11,092
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    69
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. It makes you *really think* about how easy it would be to have a sheet of plastic, lasercut machine on hand and just sell lids for low margins. They do the same thing for arcade sticks (popularized when SF4 came back. I have seen one person on etsy with a decent lid to replace all the fluval stuff. One of my favorite things about lid-making is how well the 45 cuts work for cords and how so many companies don't do that.
  2. It's very likely just a formatting bug. Not really indicating anything, but a display format issue on the back end. Example being, maybe the image for that item isn't wide enough to fill a particular display window in the cart view or something and it fills it in with clear. Some browsers might read that clear in different colors, indicating the pink line that you're seeing.
  3. As mentioned above, the bloating issues, added mucous layer might point towards parasites in the water of some kind. This batch might simply need some parasite meds. I'll attach a video for that as well.
  4. Getting the PH stable will be helpful. Sometimes corydoras just have issues and it's extremely frustrating. I have had it happen and both times it was difficult on me to know why. Mostly on the final batch of corydoras (my blacks) I spent far too much time not realizing what they needed. First, sub 7.5 PH water, when it got to high mine turned red. Just means don't get too carried away with the KH buffers. Secondly, they need food that are easy for them to eat and accessible (video below). Finally, they need the right temp/oxygenation mix. As temps go up, add more oxygen. Overall the fish looks fine. I don't see any severe signs of stress or issues. HoB might be undersized. Temp is perfectly fine, everything else looks fine apart from PH. It is slightly too high. Here is an article to help with what you're dealing with and the use of wondershells, crushed coral, equilibrium, and others. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/ph-gh-kh My advice right now would be a 50-80% water change, get your water a bit closer to your tap and to add an airstone to the tank. (HOB in the middle, air on either side with the use of a gang valve). Monitor parameters over the next two weeks and let us know how things change. With regards to your KH, I would expect PH to be lower (at or near 7.0). Once you get in all the new tests it might be more clear as to what is going on.
  5. I fixed it for you. 🙂 Yeah, once the plants get going it won't take much for the shrimp to have basically nothing in the water. I don't mind nitrates as long as it's from ferts and not from waste.
  6. My S.Repens did the same thing about a week after moving the tank which likely happened due to CO2 system crashing. Algae and snails is one thing, but plants losing a lot of leaves likely is shock in some capacity causing old growth to die off, even if it looks good. Maybe Seattle_Aquarist or Miller Or Crew or others would have a better idea in why plants do this? I'm not sure....
  7. Alright.... I woke up to another dead female who had molt issues and passed. I moved those eggs and rejiggered the way the breeder box was setup. I can't really tell you how much it's working or helping, but the eggs don't look great. If this is all you have, I recommend the above as your setup. When the shrimp hatch, you can simply remove the gate on the right and then proceed to feed them powdered food. Here's a look at the eggs. Not great quality, my apologies for that. I went ahead and added 3 baby shrimp into the egg section. After less than 2 days of this being in place, I was not satisfied with the results. Shrimp add waste and that isn't great to keep the eggs clean. I ended up pulling a lot of casings or something when I cleaned out the box this morning. There was just a lot of stuff. Some of the eggs look unviable or damaged (probably hatched too) and that was just concerning given how little flow this box has. The shrimp were basically ignoring them, so I added 2 more. After checking in on it a few times I opted to remove this box and use the Ziss Tumbler. Fun fact, it says shrimp on the box. Not really that critical that it says shrimp, but the two other methods I have seen for eggs is to use a net over a sponge or to use a tumbler. In the process of doing that, I have ALWAYS struggled to get this particular brand of airline tubing off of devices. So naturally my day was topped off with breaking the air diffuser on the hang-on breeder box. Just going to assume the warranty on fluval doesn't cover that, but I'll look into it. It would not cost them much to improve the design on this part..... Add a web to better support the attachment/removal of the airline, add a fillet on the inside of the diffuser to reduce blockage issues. I just need some good news, success, and something to go right in this tank. I really enjoy it and the losses compounding is never going to be easy. I dumped all the moss from the breeder box into the tank and went ahead and put all the shrimp back into the tank. Secondly as important, they can eat and I don't have to stress about that as well. The eggs are out of the way, protected, and gently moving around constantly. Hopefully everyone is doing well today.... time for some tea and a movie/book. EDIT: Checking on the eggs tonight and I see some paramecium or that size things jumping around. I was curious exactly how small newly hatched shrimp are... Please enjoy. THIS IS AN AMAZING Video. I forgot to mention my amanos have been doing this the past 2 days, hatching out zoeys. One of my females in the neo tank was also doing it and her shell was shiny so I believe she's ok.
  8. Sometimes you just need to sit in front of the tank and watch a bunch of corydoras whittle a big ol' piece of repashy down to nothing.... I spent a bit of time checking on everything, dosed in a little bit of ferts mid-week to see how the plants respond to the added nutrients availability. I made up some repashy to see if I can get these guys to spawn again. I have moss in the bin still and need to figure out if/where I can plant it. One of the amanos was (hopefully) helping eat the BBA off the anubias. If I wake up tomorrow and some of it is gone I will be very relieved. I trimmed roots and a bad section of rhizome off this past week, and now we have another one that has some BBA all over it again. Just trying to be diligent, spend time caring and more detailed with my care. Grace was having fun tonight pushing the corydoras out of her spot. they were all in line to eat and she was doing laps trying to understand what all the commotion was. 🙂
  9. 😞 I'm very sorry. Unfortunately they can get crushed pretty easy. Maybe the little duder didn't get enough food or something? (usually unlikely, especially once they have pattern) Maybe there was just a bigger fish that spooked it.
  10. OK. I see the ADV, but not the air. Consider adding more. Let's see what Colu says for next steps while the fish is given a break and a chance to recover a bit. If the fish has constantly been in salt, then stop using it, give the fish air, clean water, time to recover. Please be sure you're testing water parameters.
  11. I ended up moving Riddick out of the tank shortly after feeding this morning. The shrimp food I dropped in first which meant that she was a bit stuck on it. She was taking up the entire feeding dish. There were one or two bold shrimp, but they weren't really able to get in there and feed as need be. Given the molt issue, needing calcium, I cannot rule out that as a stress factor in play so I opted to move her back to her own tank. It's there for her, which is nice. I can ensure she gets food despite the vision issues and keep better care for both herself and the shrimp. There's a lot of shrimplets in the tank. I was admiring one of the smaller ones this morning. I put one in the breeder box to guard over the eggs. I accidently bumped it last night just putting the pup to bed and forgetting. It was bumped pretty hard this morning due to someone walking out of the room with cell phone in hand and not paying attention. I hope the eggs do well. There's a lot of detritus, but I don't really have high hopes for the eggs. They are either "ready" and will hatch shortly or they are far too underdeveloped. All I can really do is wait and hope.
  12. Very beautiful. They are very reminiscent of the endler patterns.
  13. I blame it on actually having the proper size tank for the fish.... I am officially moving to two weeks between cleanings. I am still mulling over the filter cleanings weekly (for all my tanks) in addition to top offs, but the major maintenance and water changes will now be extended to 14 days for the 75G. I cleaned out both filters last week and there was almost no detritus. I do see things working, the prefilter is doing it's job. That being said, I seriously wish I could try out some different foams. The ones I have are pretty much the only ones available. I keep eyeballing the Fluval x07 series 2" reticulated foams, but they are not thick enough. The only other source of foams that seems to have something similar to what I need is swisstropicals. I will be a bit more diligent about photos and monitoring. The work hasn't stopped and the testing continues. Working with a pumphead in addition to the other filters is enlightening. I can simply state that for now and elaborate when there is more information.
  14. It does not look like it's getting better. I would start by adding an airstone and aquarium salt to your container. That's a big fish and needs more oxygenation. @Q50RedSport
  15. Rainbows in the link above suggests the 72-74 range. Rummynose will want 76-78 degrees. Rams will want 78-80 degrees. Rainbow or Red-Tailed Black sharks will do just fine with the cooler temperature. They might give the rainbows some chasing, but I can guarantee mine wouldn't have much of an issue. This type of temperament from the RTBS can make fish jump, so you do need a lid. Rainbow sharks are a bit calmer from what I have been told. My RTBS is pretty calm, this all depends on what your personal fish personality is. When it comes to setup, they both will enjoy cover and have a big place to hide under/swim through. This is a very good guide. My RTBS has been kept with a few wide body tetra (glofish rescues), odessa barbs, swordtails (a few varieties), tiger barbs, melon barbs, white clouds, otocinclus, amano shrimp, clown pleco, rubberlip pleco, bristlenose pleco, siamese algae eaters, borneo loaches, various corydoras and I'm sure a few others I'm not remembering. In the video, you can see the juveniles with the rainbows ^^
  16. One of the big things I'm learning about with the liquid tests is that residuals in the vials can alter the tests. You'd want to rinse/clean them as best you can, then go ahead and before use fill/empty them with tank water to ensure that everything is reading from the tank itself and not anything remaining in the vial. This may or may not be applicable to what you're seeing. When you see something in the 7.0+ range I tend to use the additional PH test as well. Along with the above, using a timer to record and read at the precise time is also important. Letting tests sit longer does alter their results.
  17. They definitely can be! They mostly hang out in the substrate, but they do often find themselves in front of most photos! ( @Chick-In-Of-TheSea ) I'm trying to check that the temp on the rainbowfish and the others will work well. Rummynose vs other tetras they all should do fine with the rams. You can have 2-3 species of you wish as well in a tank that size. https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/melanotaenia-fluviatilis/ The rainbow will generally want slightly cooler temps it looks like. So I would lean towards barbs, rasbora, or others that enjoy the 72-74 range. My centerpiece for that range in my tank is the rainbow shark or Red tailed black shark (more aggressive).
  18. What about something like tetras and some rams? Silvertip Tetras would be amazing and should do just fine with Bolivian rams. They are both subtle but pretty nice coloration.
  19. I've taken mine down to pretty cold. Below 68F (20C). When shrimp get too cold their muscles stop working and they die from muscular dystrophy. I keep my tanks (optimally) at 72-74F (22-23C) and it's a good balance of warm enough and cool enough. When it gets cold at night the temps can drop down to that 70 degree range or slightly below. The minnows will do very well at those temperatures as well.
  20. They look great, really nice coloration.
×
×
  • Create New...