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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. I run a lot of air when I do run it. I almost always run it. That being said I struggled really hard the last time to get CO2 working effectively. I run oversized HOBs and I had a skimmer and a few things going. The main thing you want to keep in mind is spreading the CO2 around the tank. Circulation is part of the equation here. I had a lot better success removing the air stone (the filters were doing plenty of surface movement) as well as adding a pump dedicated with a spraybar to push the CO2 across the tank. Hopefully that makes sense and helps.
  2. Moss does well. Floating plants like salvina. Pogostemon Stellatus octopus and hornwort as well.
  3. Great idea. A fine 5" or larger net should work well and you can get them for a few bucks. There is also the method using a comb that works really well. Another use....
  4. You should be able to. I know it's very common for people to run sterbais hot, but I wouldn't be intimidated at all to try to get them to spawn at more normal corydoras temperatures. Condition them like everything else and then big water changes.
  5. They are available on Amazon. The outdoor one is a black color with a pigtail.
  6. Easiest way is probably buying plants and stuff comes with it. Goliad farms sells things like shrimp and snails and they do sell "goodies" that you can add. It's a mixed bag and theres no telling what you're going to get. Their blog is also a good resource for information.
  7. I actually just told my wife I may just save a few bucks for a paintball tank setup. If I need CO2 at all really, I may just adjust my fertilizer and see how it goes for a while. For me the big cost is the regulator, diffuser, and that side of things. Because of the whole shortage it's been a weird experience for me where having the smaller tanks is crazy expensive. I couldn't tell you what size mine are, but the local shop here told me that they got rid of all the smaller tanks and replaced them with the 20Lb ones just to make it easier on rotating them in and out. See if you have a hydroponics or welding shop and check prices on a tank, then I would look at regulators and figure out what you wish to do. In terms of smaller kits, theres a lot of them.... There is also the bottle method used by ocean aquarium that works well too. I believe it's called a bell style diffuser in the video above, same concept. If there's anything I can do to help, please feel free.
  8. I would like to encourage you to join team Safe Pressurized CO2 canisters. I am thankful everyone is ok. I'm sorry about your wall!
  9. YEP! I would highly recommend having these on hand given that you are using a TDS meter and keep shrimp. It's a very affordable kit. Mine arrives tomorrow!
  10. Yes that should be beneficial for shrimp. Just keep in mind you don't want PH to get extremely low unless you're talking Caridina species. I don't try to take my shrimp below 6.8. I'm sure some will and are having success, but that's just where I'm at. My plan is to add tannins, which I've done, and then use the KH buffer to keep the PH around 7.0. The shrimp can be sensitive to light, especially Neos from what I've seen. The dark water helps them to be a bit more active.
  11. Alright so before more stress is introduced let's check on a few things. First, here is the video mentioned above regarding TDS. (My apologies for the double post. I'm on mobile and it'll bug out if I remove it). Secondly, here is another that is just as relevant. Third, let's review the parameters that we as hobbyist generally focus on for some species (a lot of them may not care). https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/ph-gh-kh Alright.... Big exhale. First, I wonder how often you change water, how much. How different are the tanks to your tap water? What is your GH, KH, PH? Second, what species are involved and what do they need or prefer? Third, when we say TDS, is it calibrated, and is that something to be concerned about. Shrimp for example could have a massive molt party if you all of a sudden start to dramatically change water. Something like dripping water into the tank might be the way to handle that water change for that tank in particular just to slowly raise levels over a few hours instead of suddenly. Your TDS could be telling.you that you have hard water. It could also be telling you that there are just a lot of organics in the water. There's a lot to unpack. Basically, you've identified a concern and the goal is to research it now! That's the fun part. , Doing top offs with RO should help. How you change water moving forward would depend on the above.
  12. Very cool. For some of the Cardina there are these things called shadow genes. They may have one pattern, but they carry and show traits from other patterns. Sometimes subtle, sometimes a bit obvious. There's king Kong black pandas with blue in the white bands being a really common one. There are also blue steels with white and grey tones that are pretty interesting looking too. I would imagine, your shrimp have a lot of the crossing of different lines and you do see a lot of similar type of things while you're on your first few strains/sorts/culls. Always interesting though, that's the fun surprise so far! I can't say for certain, but you might have some deep blue bodied shrimp and then that one above might have a carbon rili shell. The blue tones underneath (on the flesh) and then the shell being a more black color. Not sure if that's how it works at all, but definitely interesting stuff to dive down the rabbit hole researching.
  13. For me, I will exclude adding anything to the tank and simply focus on the one "issue". For the sake of my own sanity I just want to replace my regulator with a new one. This is mostly so I can dial in my CO2 and know for certain that there isn't any issues with mine. The only other item to consider would be to modify my filtration to a canister so that I can use a full length spray bar on the tank. I would ultimately like to have a sump one day, but for now.... What I have is just fine. Have you topped them before? (Take the top sections and plant those. Then take what is currently in the substrate and either trim it back to clear bare sections or remove those parts and propagate out the healthier, new growth) When you see aerial roots that might be a benefit to get your goal.
  14. It also translates to "freshwater seaweed". It's a fun one to try to find the scientific name or naming origin. 🙂 (Tang on the second screenshot is a word used for seaweed) When I first heard about Suß is was recommended to me as a type of kelp for freshwater tanks. A bit more on the origin: https://www.fishlaboratory.com/fish/subwassertang/
  15. Do you think adding a black background to that right and back side is possible? With that window right there it might be causing that excess algae. Especially considering it's location.
  16. Imagine your tank in your mind. Imagine how it started and the journey from that beginning to this current point in time. In philosophy, there is a value to that journey, to experience in life. That's an entirely different conversation, but I have been mulling over this concept with the basic premise that I shouldn't be unhappy with a tank just because it isn't perfect. That I should value where the tank is now, with the gravity of that journey along the way, and focus primarily on where I am now at this point in time.... Sometimes you can appreciate the journey more than the result, but my goal in this specific moment right now is to enjoy where I am today. With that in the back of your mind I want to pose one question. You can fix one thing on your favorite tank to make it truly perfect. What do you decide to fix? Tell us why.
  17. @Chick-In-Of-TheSea Is there any issue/risk of the amount of waste in the substrate? Maybe just a few good siphons or something and clean water? I know you said the nitrates were low, but maybe there's too many organics causing stress?
  18. I mean, day by day just do a little section with a skewer or something. Even your hand might make it easy to get the big globs. Things like ambient light might be hurting you. Once you have the big algae on the right side just removed..... then you can see your canvas so to speak. A little moss ledge or something might be a really easy way to add a lot of mid-water feeders. I think that algae is mostly from excess nutrients (nitrates and phosphates would be the indicators), but I could be mistaken. I wouldn't add anything slow growing until that's looked into, that's what I meant by that comment earlier. Val is a good one, it grows well! Something like Microsword I like a lot too.
  19. Very sorry for your loss. Maybe a heater failed?
  20. Remove algae add some mossy moss? Hygro pinnatifida might look cool, but you would need to get algae in check a little. That tank is begging for a nice bit of anubias! Anubias nangi and a bigger one like hastifolia.
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