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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. Makes sense... after the video yesterday it's a bit on the nose there too.
  2. They killed a filter for me too. Stuff happens when you can't control them. They went to the high flow sections and went crazy. I was cleaning the filter daily for almost a month before I felt comfortable enough to leave it to a normal maintenance routine. Alum is a very safe dip that you can use. Bleach is also a dip you can use. The RR/Seltzer might be a more thorough method. At this point, given all the junk I see on plants I would just get the invitro ones or qt the plants themselves. Having a place for plants to sit and to basically acclimate to your water while you can dip and check for pests, monitor and check for pests, however you want to handle it.
  3. Just cut it and make it have a small lip. 😉I think they do make small glass ones up to say 30-40mm size.
  4. Spiralis is pretty cool. Pick the one you like the look of. There are also some pretty cool hairgrass species that get tall.
  5. They will develop over time. I'm sure they come in on plants. @modified lung Has a journal where he breaks down a lot of different species of live foods. It's an amazing resource and such an interesting look at all of those things. A lot of my issue with worms is literally just in the identification of what's going on. My tanks have pretty much 90% bottom feeders (corydoras) and I don't have a lot to predate on the worms. It shouldn't be anything more than a food source for most situations. Thinks like planaria, hydra, I tend to avoid specifically because I keep shrimp. I would recommend grindal worm cultures as opposed to detritus worms.
  6. Seachem one is pretty marvelous. CO2 art has a nice big bottle of the solution checker if they ever have it in stock. I need to get one of these.... I agree. The only qualm I have with some of the "off brand ones" is that the directions are ridiculously bad. something akin to "add 5 drops" and its impossible to read while others recommend 30-50 drops of solution. I honestly don't think much of that really matters, but the goal being get something that makes sense and do some research on how to use them. (Jurijs has some videos on this as well as green aqua and george farmer and quite a few places) Yes.... it's "just a drop checker" but placement and how easy the information from it is for you to get really does help out. Based on recent information I received on this topic I actually prefer the drop checkers by a mile to monitor CO2.
  7. Don't do it... Cyclops and rotifers are awesome. Worms are just.... nope nope nope.
  8. I was totally staring at this thread earlier wondering how things were going. Nice! That's the spirit! Having this mindset makes things really fun for me. "Observe and report" so to speak and figure out what you learn along the way.
  9. Have you heard of no planaria? Mine tend to be most active at night. Might be helpful to track things by checking at night. I change 25% (I was changing more and may occasionally change more) once a week. I don't do anything fancy but I highly recommend the details and methods you can find on Marks shrimp tanks channel with regards to caring for neocaridina species. The main goal is that the water in the tank is similar to the water you're putting back in. If there's a large discrepancy in temperature, GH, KH, then that would lead to stress. Oxygenation is another one that a lot of people overlook. One final thing I will mention is that if you aren't normally doing a lot of water changes, you'd want to slowly acclimatize the tank to that new routine. If your goal is a certain volume of water per a certain amount of time, then I would start by doing half as much half as often and slowly ramp up to the rate that you feel comfortable with. The main thing is to keep a routine. Meaning, water changes, how you clean the tank, and how you interact with the tank is what they will learn.
  10. Stopping feeding for the first couple of days is because of internal worms and parasites being released. You would want to keep an eye out for bloat and for things like that. If you don't feed the fish for say, 5-7 days, there isn't going to be a lot of long term issues doing this as it is normal. They would graze on what is in the tank and that would sustain the. Until the food is there. I wouldn't have an issue feeding or holding back food. The main thing is to keep feeding light if you do feed. @Odd Duck @Colu Can you please help us out with the internal parasites and feeding clarification?
  11. Vinyl is what the ACO tubing is made from. The main thing is to make sure there's not any chemical residue from manufacturing.
  12. I wouldn't use soap regularly. Something like vinegar cleaner might work or just a soak in something like that if you have residue. If you do have residue, then definitely take the time to clean them accordingly. If you let the chemicals sit you may have residue like that. It is important to have them cleaned / dried appropriately. Say every 1-3 months i would get a pipe cleaner and do a nice soak / clean / sanitize on them. This all varies based on use.
  13. Short answer is yes. Check out the video above.
  14. i can see it now... that look in it's eye. The PSO is just waiting to go jungle on you and take over! 😂
  15. YEP! There should be some way to convert the units. I can try to research it if you need any help. I would try julii / false julii corydoras. They are beautiful once the pattern gets going and the temp range is spot on for them.
  16. From today. Feeding some pollen... this is where they were prior to feeding. Edit: The right sponge has slightly more air going through it compared to the other. That's where all the babies are hanging out.
  17. well... its slowly becoming softer, but I try to keep a decent amount of hardness in there. Testing yesterday, KH/GH were both at 5 degrees. Soil is absorbing some of the GH and has been absorbing the KH. In normal circumstances, with corydoras, they have had GH from 300-500 (it's down to 100 now at the tap) and they have had KH in the range of 80-200 (it's down to 40-80 now in the tap). Amanos do not require soft water at all. They will do well in a variety of ranges.
  18. Sort of up to you. If you don't have a lot of "open space" that's more of what I mean. If there is a lot of surface area then you'd want more shrimp to groom it. Agreed. I think that for basically any Neos, have an established colony before adding anything to it. Once you have that, just have hides for baby shrimp (neos) and then be sure to have lots of plants for something like amanos to occupy their time. It might just be the difference in tanks, but the amanos are very specific about where they spend their time. Maybe that's an advantage to keeping them in different spots. Baby neos for me hang out on the glass and filter a lot while the amanos are on the moss and wood (especially shadows during the day). Neos tend to be on the sand a lot more.
  19. I have heard of people using ebay to acquire some meds in the EU. I did find a list of comparible meds in the EU. Let me see if I can find it again.... (nope) Esha is the common brand available. There should be something similar like gdex or -ndx that works like metroplex. What you would do is look up the MSDS sheets which list out the ingredients. https://eshalabs.com/esha-gdex/ https://eshalabs.com/esha-ndx/ Active substances by type and quantity: 100 g contain : 580.0 mg sodium perborate-3-hydrate 58.0 mg magnesium peroxide Other ingredients: Sodium chloride, sodium dihydrogen phosphate, potassium chloride According to the bag this is the correct stuff for aquarium use. If you are experiencing issues then I would avoid use and try a different brand. If there is any chemical odor or fragrance avoid it. That bag is the correct one though.
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