nabokovfan87

I would monitor your plants that are in the front and carpeting. That would be my go-to in terms of tank health. If they have algae you may need to adjust light (up or down) or a variety of other things like dosing might be the cause. Whatever that plant is doing is how I would view things. the longer stems and taller plants you can trim down if need be. Edit: keep an eye on the anubias too. It's a lowlight plant and right under the hotstpot. If you run into issues I would say raise up the light or move the anubias to the lower light spots.

Here's another example: Very cool. Nice find.

@Gorsim photo isn't working. 😞 Please try to reattach it. Might be a type of freshwater sponge.

It could be green spot algae. I would definitely keep an eye on it. I have something similar happening in my tank (might be cyano), but I am just monitoring it for now and we will see!

Would remind me of an aquarium rave or something. 😂 If you go the route of certain species you're interest in or something then you could put your name (or name the room) and something like "amazon studies dept." 🙂 Dean had a buddy at work who made his and I think some other fishkeepers also had similar stuff. Just an acrylic sign made custom type of thing. Get something you like!

A ton of timers are based on what is called a 555 timer. It's a single chip that you can set to tick at certain rates. If you want to install memory, you're talking multiple times in cost. In reality, given today's cost in parts you're talking a very minimal cost compared to other things. Having some sort of a UPS would solve the issue, would work for the vast majority of issues with lights in particular. That being said, I entirely agree. They should simply add a CMOS battery and then go ahead and add a method for the light to remember settings. Either, by flashing it or by using a battery. Flashing would introduce something like hard data points which the user can play with. This is extremely common in something like graphics cards for computers and the data is stored on long term memory chips. The light is powered off, goes to read that chip, off it goes with the modified settings. But, you still have to set the time somehow.... That internal CMOS battery is known to cause issues with longevity with parts like motherboard, game cartridges, calculators, and other electronics. It would have to be user replaceable. (for instance, behind the remote compartment in the lighting cord). It's very much possible, but it's also just about not really wanting to add that manufacturing cost above anything else. Parts are cheap, it's the assembly, testing, reliability issues over time. Battery could easily explode via humidity or other issues and ruin the light, etc.

what is the tank height? On a 10-20G tank (short height) I have my low power light at about 20-35% On a slightly taller tank (29G) I had to push the 3.0 light up to about double the strength to hit carpeting plants. Using a riser actually might help with that too because it spreads out the hotspot to the whole base of the tank. On my bigger tank, 75G, it is slightly taller again and I have that 3.0 at 75% or so and raised up 8".

Pecktec or MST I think has shown it with some roots.

I would argue against it just because I don't think they can support themselves on those leaves. Mine barely leave the wood or go into the lighted areas of the tank. They crave to be camouflaged.

There is a few, but here is a video on the construction. They also have a similar construction in the warehouse with bigger tanks.

repashy powder would be the go to for me @tolstoy21

Repashy is really good for that too.

Yes

Is this all the same fish? Looks female to me. The lower fin looks to be curved edge as opposed to sharp, no bump on the head, and you don't have a very big spike on the dorsal third spine, and no tail rays either. Could be fry, might even just be eggs. It might've gotten pushed off of a rock too. Hopefully someone who has bred the rams previously can chime in.

I'm waiting for hikari to make veggie version of vibrabites.... My top foods: NLS Algaemax pellets/wafers/mini-wafers (smallest ones you can get) Northfin Cichlid veggie pellets (smallest you can get) ----> Note, the fish are not a fan of the wafers as much, same exact recipe, but the pellets they dig and it's great for shrimp too. They are slowly getting through them. I plan to replace with the above NLS mentioned wafers. Northfin Krill pro pellets (smallest you can get) //This replaces vibrabites for me in future Xtreme Spirulina / Krill flakes (community crave or by themselves) Repashy Soilent Green Repashy Bottom Scratcher Frozen Spirulina brine shrimp Shrimp King Complete Honorable Mentions or "nice to have" or things I wish I could try: Hikari Discus granules Fluval bug bites for bottom feeders (granules not wafers) Repashy Iagapo Explorer Repashy Community Blend Repashy Spawn and Grow Repashy Super Green Hikari frozen Baby brine Hikari frozen mini bloodworms Live BBS Glasgarten Mineral Junkie (shrimp food) Shrimp King 5 leaf mix Shrimp King Color Bee Pollen Mulberry or Indian Almond Leaves Alder Cones (big ones)

Bumblebee Catfish, Plecos, there's a few! blind cave tetra is a thing too!

Definitely a difficult puzzle. I would try to feed the platies first and then on the opposite side of the tank use something like a worm cone or a feeding ring for the Bettas. They should opt for floating pellets and the like and it might be easier to train them to hand feed (and eventually just use the ring) as opposed to trying to corral all of the platies. I would feed the platies the Xtreme flake mix, community crave (it's a blend of the krill flake with spirulina flake). You would feed them off on one side and then try to train the Bettas to eat the Betta food or just to eat on the other side of the tank. Hand feeding just the Bettas at first with tongs or something would be a start, but I'm uncertain on how to get to the end goal.

75G is real fun on water change day. 12 trips with 5G buckets and trying to be efficient with how I do it! I won't even do the math if I had to use the 1G jar. 😞

No I don't think it would or should.

I tend to run 1 HoB per 1.5-2 feet of aquarium. One of the biggest dilemmas is honestly the flowrate and media functionality. I like sponge for mechanical, but I have run into issues not having dedicated biological media. This is a newer issue as I have ran a variety of sponge filters with a variety of different types of sponge. It's a difficult one to science out the direct cause without the ability to count types of bacteria under a microscope or something. I like the concept of canisters, but there is a plethora of terrible designs. I specifically like the output options for canisters compared to HoBs. I want to be able to even out the circulation across the entire length of a tank as opposed to just one small section. This helps keep particles from settling and it helps keep from having dead spots. With the fish I keep that is an important feature. High oxygenation and good circulation. From what @Mmiller2001 has experienced and reported this is also key for plants and it has personally helped me with CO2. Pretty much any tank I have now is going to have some sort of a spread output across the length of the back of the tank. Right now I have 2 HoBs and a circulation pump pointing at the glass and back on the CO2 diffuser pushing those bubbles across the bottom of the tank to all of the plants. Optimally, I would like to have a sump. I think it works the best for pretty much every aquarium and I would simply reference corvus oscen as a touch point for the reason behind them. I like that you can setup a sump in a variety of ways and you can add in equipment in that setup. It's a great way to use a spare tank and it's a phenomenal way to add all of the things you like into your setup without too much fuss. (heater outside of the tank, controllers, monitoring equipment, dosers, large capacity for biologicals, refugium for algae control, strong biological filtration types, high oxygenation chambers, reactors, in-line diffusers, etc.

Does it feel raised on the surface of the glass or does it feel like part of the glass is worn down? Depending on how the divider was cut you might have an issue with the glass itself being bent or deformed in some way. If the divider was oversized, thicker or harder (tempered) glass that would attribute to some damage in that case. I hope it's not the case!!! As far as removing stuff from glass I think the one who had the biggest challenge of recent was Irene:

In a roundabout way I want to point to two main things that have been obstacles for me followed by the one I think is more of a limiting factor. One of the biggest recurring themes in my experience has been standing there with two wet hands trying to do multiple things at once and trying to be at two places at once. Have to watch the input so it doesn't suck up a fish, but then I also have to go adjust the temp on the nozzle. Then you pop on youtube and see all of the auto top offs, drain lines, timers to fill tanks, racks of tanks, etc. I would greatly benefit for a trashcan on wheels for maintenance to move water and fill tanks. I could just as easily benefit from a delivery of a few boxes of plants, rocks, or just a certain stand/filter to help me out with that enjoyment. In the above scenario the main concern there is cost and spending wisely to make the funds I have work well for me. Another recurring theme in my experience has been not knowing how badly I was messing things up in a variety of ways. Tank wasn't scaped right resulting in some aggression issues. The tank wasn't nearly big enough resulting in aggression issues. The plants were in the wrong spot, resulting in algae. The tank was too tall and the light wasn't setup to compensate for that. The light was on too long and algae went off. The filter slowed down and I didn't catch it in time. Not enough air. CO2 wasn't circulating in the tank fully causing algae. Temperature issues. Thermometer failures. Feeding the wrong foods causing bloat. Buying all the meds you're supposed to have, but not having the one you might need to cover a specific disease. ......and most recently...... not having multiple testing items to ensure results are correct. In the above, the main concern there is understanding that you are constantly learning and the goal is to push for learning more. The goal is to understand the fine details. In total, the hobby can best be described as an eternal conversation. You'll learn along the way, every chance you get, and you have to be receptive to that. There is a lot of white noise, tribal knowledge, and trivial advice, but filtering through what works best for you is such a difficult thing. ..................so. My most limited thing for me personally is going to be cost. There is a lot of ways to make things easier for yourself by spending a bit more. This is true in a lot of ways for a lot of things, but when it comes to the aquarium hobby itself there is a lot of trying to improve things buy purchasing the "next best thing" or just something that might work a little better for your needs. Cost is definitely an issue because you can only extend yourself so much. Knowing what to purchase that will do well for you is the other side of the coin that leads to so many issues. Let me give you a quick for instance. You're new to the hobby and so you go and get a 5G nano style tank and a betta fish. You should have pretty much a good experience with all things considered. However, the fish you got happened to be sick due to what happened to the fish along the way to get to you. Your tank didn't come with plants or hardscape and when you decided to go that route you no longer have space for the aquascape you wanted. Now you're looking for a 20 long aquarium, lid, light, hardscape, more plants, and you're trying to find a stand for it. Add on a filter, some botanicals, that special food and meds to help with the bloat on the betta. It's sort of a vicious cycle and you might not learn all of that (to set yourself up for success) based on whatever happened prior to that tank being setup. There's so many easy ways for things to tumble down that slippery slope and it's very easy for a new hobbyist to feel dejected as a result. My hope is that it's a bit easier to set up new hobbyists with the knowledge they need to get them on the right foot. That when something happens, they have a place to ask for advice, get good advice, and to be able to have someone help them through those trials and tribulations along the way to that rewarding part of the hobby. I wish you the best of luck and I'm happy to help in any way possible as are so many people here on the forums. Welcome! Hopefully we get to see your setups soon!

https://us.sicce.com/en/products/multifunction-pumps/syncra-sdc.html This is the "top of the line" type of pump, but it may or may not fit what you're needing. They have a few options. I would start with Sicce and see what you can find that fits. That would give you a good baseline to compare to any future options. Here is another choice: https://us.sicce.com/en/products/multifunction-pumps/multi.html Most pumps might have a slip style fitting designed for hoses and hoseclamps. There's a few ways to attach the hoses, but just wanted to clarify.... the pump may look one way and then eventually have a fitting that makes it work for your needs.

Susswassertang is very similar to a "freshwater kelp" it would grow and act like moss. I am not how the confusion may have happened, but I think there may have been a mixup with the floating plant recommendation. I would suggest looking into Salvinia minima.

This is a style of setup that I really can get behind. Massive tank, small bioload.... it just works and does it's thing. If you are going to "get into" shrimp than this is a perfect, level-headed, easy to understand view from someone with experience with the species. ENJOY! Here is more details on the specific setup. And the ever fun releasing a ton of something into a tank: