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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    This is following the 3 full days of treatment. I am unsure why but the BBA didn't change at all in this time period. The only difference being that the Hygro was treated in a bucket with an airstone. That airstone is now tumbling the corydoras eggs, so the anubias was treated via specimen container without air. Following two full 24 hour treatments, the BBA doesn't have any indication that it was stressed or dying back in any form. I changed the water, added more of the algecide and we'll check on things in 24 hours again. The anubias will likely makes it way to the low demand tank. I am also going to take the rock that has the moss and trim it in the same way I did the wood. I will then try to propagate that out. I don't have a ton of superglue left (about half of a "half-tube") and I don't think it'll get me too far. We'll see. Moss on the wood is looking great though. I did see the S.Repens brightening up and looking like it's growing in again. I will need to trim it and propogate that out as soon as humanly possible to try to get more plant load going. The bottoms of all the stems look stressed and covered in the algae. BBA on the black substrate hides algae well! Increasing the GH though, thankfully, seems to have helped perk back up the S.Repens. I am also considering adding one of the ferns just to see how it does in a low-light shady spot in the higher nutrient tank.
  2. nabokovfan87
    Very good to see the changes towards a positive change. 🙂 Here is the related livestream and it should start at the appropriate time (44:18):
  3. nabokovfan87
    The first batch of heaters had a discount and would display a code when the heater reached a certain service life. Those details are in this thread. I would reach out to support and try to understand what is going on. Could be a malfunction based on the above chart.
  4. nabokovfan87
    Mildly helpful: 999 vs. 978: https://www.hygger-online.com/differences-in-the-led-light-between-hygger-978-and-999/ 978 vs. 957: https://www.hygger-online.com/how-does-the-hygger-957-light-compare-to-the-978-light/ 957 Light: 10% light intensity adjustments. optical sensor mode, 24/7 timer mode. Controller is on the light itself (might get damaged due to water). more LEDs and higher lumens. 999 Light: 10% light intensity adjustments. Updated controller in-line (on the cable, away from water). aluminum construction, water resistant (sealed), less lumens... probably a lot more efficient, but difficult to say. Designed to fix light flicker issues (probably when recording tanks or photography). Spectrum charts for both lights are a copy/paste and there is no difference among them. I can't really speak to which is "better". 957 looks like a row of each color of LEDs the 999 looks to be a bit better designed for planted tanks. Welcome to the forums @Vítor!
  5. nabokovfan87
    What was the reason the 300g pong was mesmerizing? Was it specifically the way the fish interacted with the surroundings? The surroundings themselves? (being able to sit around the pond and to see things easier, or just being outside potentially? I'm not trying to say what you should do with all your stuff by any means, but just speaking from my own experiences here. The water issue is a pain. It's going to be a major topic for all hobbyists moving forward. I also would argue that so is the quality of the water going into the house! I went from 5-7 tanks strewn around the house down to 1. Probably the single best decision I've made in the hobby. It also means that the placement of that tank keeps the "fish stuff" more contained and those that may not want to be around it don't have to be. Whether it's a rack with a water butt type of setup or however things go forward for you, I hope you're able to have enjoyment and find ways to reduce the angst against the tanks in some capacity. The goal is enjoyment and positivity and happiness in life.... so hopefully you are there or able to get there and I wish you (and her) the best of luck doing so.
  6. nabokovfan87
    I definitely don't want worms! 😂 I appreciate it very much though. Fun project and it's exciting to see all the many ways people set these up.
  7. nabokovfan87
    I couldn't help but pause when I checked on the tank this morning for the 5th time. Eggs are fine, shrimp are doing their thing. I don't see any dead females. I went about my morning and checked on the other tanks, got the pups settled. A few hours later, here we are.... All I can express is how nice it is when you put yourself into a project and you admire it as such. The little ones.... Their newly molted mom: One of their aunts that is in the process of doing a lot of work to add to the family. One of the best looking shrimp in the tank. Some siblings of the first generation, pattern is still forming. One of the other adults using the Ohko caves. I am glad they are having a good day today. One day at a time, one issue at a time and having patience to try to acclimate to new care requirements. I'll have to run some more tests tomorrow, but for now, it's a fun day for them.
  8. nabokovfan87
    It's fiiiiine I got enough for the both of us. 😂 Crypts and Buce are plants I need to try. It's so awesome to see the success and to see the plant doing so well! Nice work.
  9. nabokovfan87
    Beautiful! Nice catch. Yes.... This is why I have a fondness for metal gang valves now and dropping an air stone as a sort of pressure relief. I end up adding 2-3 taps to a tank and the last line is either a slightly open pressure relief valve ( they make them for linear piston pumps as well as airline) or an air stone that is very easy for water to flow through.
  10. nabokovfan87
    I'd like to, but not if my tap is equally high in ammonia and nitrates! Wondering if I should use the store bought spring water instead. Testing of that showed much lower nitrate and 0 ammonia, which again throws into question the accuracy of the test kit. Maybe it IS ok after all??? Who knows. Yeah, further research is definitely required. I know sometimes you may test for one item in your water, see a test, but what you're actually seeing the results for isn't that specific entity. Ammonia in the water could be an indicator for chloramines in the water which would result in needing to double dose prime. I am uncertain what nitrates mean in the water. My brief research showed well water, farmland, and similar type of groundwater contamination. Pesticides even would be a culprit I imagine. That is why I highly encourage the discussion with the water company. Once they understand you have a plethora of tanks and potentially even have a sort of "work from home" issue where you might sell plants or livestock from your tanks it becomes an issue on their side when they treat the tap water system. There are alternatives for treatment they can use which will minimize the impact on your fish. I will try to locate that Livestream, but for now.... Water prep, test, plants, and research is what seems to be the path of some success for you. It's wonderful to hear the fish perked up thanks to the salt! You can add a double dose of prime (or other conditioner) every 24 hours to keep most of the issues you're seeing as controlled as possible right now as well.
  11. nabokovfan87
    Sorry, can't add plants at all! In fact, I removed them in order to treat the fish with aquarium salt. I've tried keeping plants in there with this level of salt previously and it just kills the plants. (My poor swordplant is hanging out in a 5 gal bucket in the yard right now!) Unless there's a common houseplant that is salt resistant, I can't use this as an option. No mangroves readily available near me. I'm actually mildly pleased that I've got green water at this point- probably a symptom of high nitrates, but also a way for them to get used up. Not sure about green water's ability to survive in saltier water. Anubias is probably good. Very very slow growing. I know the common knowledge is to avoid salt with plants. Some plants like hairgrass, val, etc. Might be extremely sensitive to salt. Others like anubias, moss, mangrove, some ferns, they don't really care too much. Keep in mind that the salt is short term and not permanent (in all hopes). Lily or pathos, whatever plant you wish to use can be added to a conditioning chamber in a refugium style setup as well as the top of the tank. That would give you the opportunity to remove the nitrates via plants, off gas it via air, as well as remove those plants easily if you do ever need to dump salt in. In my case, 99.99999% of the time. I dump the salt in despite any plants in the tank. I have lost some plants, but the majority of them can tolerate salt for a few days. I'm wary of this just because I don't have a ton of space (condo) and I"m not confident in remineralizing the water. I'm not sure what I would use. Seachem Equilibrium? Depends on what you're keeping. But yes, equilibrium and crushed coras as well as premixed products are available. A lot of these are used in shrimp tanks. You mentioned CC in the filter, you could also add this to media bags and stack it behind some of your plants or against the back glass where the filter intakes water.
  12. nabokovfan87
    Take a bag of tap and tank water and ask if they can test it for you too!
  13. nabokovfan87
    Yes. Just make sure the container itself is mostly free of air. Lid on, then adjust..... Very slowly add air because it's easy to blow the eggs around very harshly.
  14. nabokovfan87
    For reference, here is the other style of kit. This one comes with loops that you can much more easily mount to some hooks and it would auto level itself out with gravity. You could easily modify the updated kit to match this one, but you would need a crimp tool. If you want to use a hang on rim attachment (this is shown off in the 3.0 thread) that is an option as well. Overall the newer kit is an improvement, but it does have some flaws from my experience which may just be due to the house and issues with light warpage.
  15. nabokovfan87
    That's a wonderful tank. Keep it trimmed! Looks amazing.
  16. nabokovfan87
    I tend to do large water changes. If the fish in the tank are used to it, they tend to do well with it. I don't think changing that much water would cause an issue.... of course, given that the tap isn't drastically changed on you. Yikes! Definitely keep up with the testing. I recently had a rude awakening to my strips being vastly off on some parameters. I would recommend using them and comparing with the liquid just to ensure what you're looking at. If you see a trend that they are off, if they weren't wet or older, then I'd try to get a replacement or something. Depends on where you got them and all that, how long ago, but if it's recent then it might be worth a shot. Tetra strips have usually been pretty good for me. I am yet to ever see any ammonia strips read ammonia. How is it setup? What kind of media is where? Do you have a prefilter sponge of some kind in the tank itself? Please double check this guy for ich or white spots. I see some, it may just be a bubble on the photo or some salt in the water that hadn't dissolved yet. I wanted to mention it just for the sake of in case you didn't see it. The tank itself has very minimal planting and this means there isn't really a necessity to keep the nitrates this high. I would opt for 50% WCs every 24-48 hours for the sake of getting that value down in the 10-20 range. See how high it climbs in between a water change, then that may indicate a reason behind some of the issues you're seeing. This leads to a few questions.... Are you on a well with farmland locally or are you on municipal water systems? Typically it's very unlikely and against regulations to have that much nitrate in the water from the tap. It was recommended to off-gas the tapwater for 12-24 hours and retest to see if there were any changes in nitrates. If you have that as an issue I would suggest doing what Bentley Pascoe had mentioned on his stream this past week. The issue he had was similar and he called the water company, explained the situation. They give his pipes special treatment and this is due to the tanks he has at his house and the cost of the livestock. He gives some pretty great advice and shares the story on his experience dealing with the issue. It may be a valid option for you. If you are on a well, I think you best option is to invest in some sort of RO unit and a method to prep water ahead of time for water changes. This will help with all of your tanks and potentially your own health as well with the water systems in your home. It would, but it would be used up so quickly that it isn't really worth it. I would try something like adding a moss wall, plants to use up the nitrates as a buffer. Pathos, floating plants, etc. I understand it's goldfish but maybe there is something they won't touch that can add a lot more plant load. Let's see what the off-gas test says, more water tests (of the tank and the tap), and understand the situation a bit better with the above questions. I apologize for the long post, hopefully we can help out! If you haven't seen it, here is Cory's story of a very similar issue with his goldfish.
  17. nabokovfan87
    Update: More eggs layed. I sincerely think this might be the last spawn from my big female. It's difficult to tell if she's doing well or not. More fry means if I can successfully get them into the tank then I can finally try to sell some. I did notice an issue trying to setup the egg tumbler @Guppysnail, when you put the lid on, I had to sort of roll it around to purge as much air as I could. A slight big enough bubble, massive amount of air and they won't even twitch. Once I got the air out they moved a lot more easily in the traditional tumbler fashion. They are all set and I'll check on them tomorrow. Did I mention I need a fry box!
  18. nabokovfan87
    @Biotope Biologist Any ideas? I don't think it's detritus worms or anything like that. It looks like it's going to develop into something.
  19. nabokovfan87
    They will definitely tumble but it's a ridiculously fine adjustment. They sort of "waft". Shake back and forth and wiggle is the goal. Maybe just a bit stronger than that too. They will likely end up on the outside of the circle and the. Sort of shake at that point but stay in place. Corydoras eggs especially are crazy sticky. There's a video of showing what it should look like. 🙂
  20. nabokovfan87
    One of my newer black corydoras with their first spawn perhaps.
  21. nabokovfan87
    I will start by saying that this kit is applicable to quite a few aquarium lights out there. I cannot give you any specific comments with regards to "yes it will work" because the basic premise of a lot of lights are based on the fluval light series of products. This kit is the "latest and greatest" so to speak because it incorporates the newer mounting system. This is mostly meant to simplify mounting and make the process a bit easier for someone to accomplish. I kind of wish I had the older kit, honestly, but I can see the advantages of both styles. I will discuss the differences in a follow up post in this thread. In essence, the kit is comprised of 2 identical assemblies and it consists of: -Attachment bracket -Steel wire -Mounting attachment You are still required to go out and purchase the screws needed to attach this to the ceiling. The kit directions specify #8 or #10 size wood screws and to attach this directly to ceiling joists. I would've liked to see this included in the kit. I also would've liked to see it made a bit more clearly whether you need pan head or countersink hardware due to the differences in how those types of hardware interface with the provided mounting attachments. (I did not see any CSK on the inside of the mounting points) You undo the mounting bracket, insert the screw, make sure you are absolutely certain of where the hardware is to be attached and then install the screw into the ceiling. No washers, no bulky mounting blocks, it's a very sleek design. Let's take a look at what happened in my case.... At the ceiling we have the attachment point which is slightly askew. I cannot say I'm surprised, but this is something that I would assume is a lot more common than fluval would like to admit. This is the main reason why I wish I had the older style kit. It gives you slightly more freedom with mounting on an imperfect surface. On the attachment point of the light itself there is a threaded pin that attaches from the end of the steel cable into the mounting bracket (black piece). This attachment is not held together with any sort of loctite / thread locker which means that the twisting of the steel wire to attach it to the ceiling point directly loosens it from the lower mounting plate. It came quite close when I noticed this issue to the light crashing into the tank. I put a specimen container on each side of the tank to get an even lift, tightened the wires to the new height, and then proceeded to hope for a setup where the light was no longer constantly in the way. As you can see.... the slight angle of the ceiling attachment ends with a lot of play in the light after it's mounted. We're beyond the point of return and the only real way to fix this is to make some custom washers to level out the ceiling attachments. The light is several inches askew above the tank and visually this is not desired. This means when working on the tank part of the tank has the light several inches closer and constantly being bumped. I know it appears from the steel cables that the mounting is not straight to the tank. I guarantee you that this is due to both attachments being askew in opposing directions. The one farthest from view in this photo below points to the left and the one closest points towards the right. This kit was used on my 48" light that I have had for several years. What I also found out moments after lifting the light to the desired height is that the light itself is severely warped. The middle of the light is several inches high and each end of the light droops down, making an arc. This again further skews the cables resulting in a bit of a wonky view when looking at the tank. I am pretty disappointed in fluval for that one, I don't think the light should've warped over time and I seriously do not think that it should have warped this badly. Left to right the light also has a twist in it. It's very difficult to tell in the photo, but in person the bend is a bit dramatic. In all, am I happy with the purchase? Pros: -Easy in terms of minimal instruction steps -Generally cheap and reliable -Minimal design fits well in a variety of decor situations Cons: -Everything is crooked/warped -Missing hardware -No additional install tools included to help ensure the attachment points are aligned. There is a lot of manual effort and it's very easy to screw it up when you're trying to mount this. (meaning, very easy for things to be crooked) -Generally, not a lot of tolerance into the orientation of the light. Once it's installed, it better be right. -Very difficult to find this for purchase -May need to buy multiple kits for longer lights I will end by saying, mounting the light does remove it from being an issue when it comes to opening the lid. However, it does not ensure better access to things like hang-on back filters mounted to the rear of the tank. It is still in the way when I try to clean them. An improvement, yes, but due to the light swinging around if it is tapped, it's a constant fear that it will come down into the glass lids.
  22. nabokovfan87
    *insert Krenic Gif* "It's Beautiful!" That's awesome..... the eggs look great! be sure to let us know how you enjoy the tumbler. I always freak out whenever I take the lid off. It snaps really hard on me and everything tends to fly out everywhere. (fair warning)
  23. nabokovfan87
    if it is from amazon. message amazon, not the seller. explain the safety issue and faulty manufacturing and damage to your property. Usually those types of things make the management actually pay attention and look at the photos instead of insist on non-fixes. If it's going to do that to people, it shouldn't be sold. It failed because of a manufacturing / material failure. (made from tin foil should be steel or something)
  24. nabokovfan87
    This is a very common "island style" aquascape. There is also some triangle style scapes that are similar. The tank looks great, looking forward to planting!
  25. nabokovfan87
    Yeah, the dark blue one.
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