Mmiller2001

I would go hard wayer fish. They will like your source water.

What's your GH and KH?

CO2 will lower your pH while it's active, this is normal and desired. If you do 50% weekly water changes, like you should do when running CO2, you should have no problem with GH, KH and pH. FYI, I run 0dKH. There is a danger, you can add too much CO2 and kill your fish, but taking a day to adjust CO2 properly will prevent this from happening. You want 30ppm of CO2. Also, purchase a good regulator and you should be fine from failures. If you loose power, your CO2 simply turns off, you would then need to calibrate the timer it's plugged into. Nothing will die because CO2 is off, but it will upset the plants, they love CO2. FYI, all in one fertilizers will be challenging, it's best to go dry fertilizers. Here is a link to every question you will have. Going CO2 is absolutely amazing. Don't be scared. https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/choosing-co2-why

Dose more, I'm dosing 8ppm a week. There's no problem dosing all your Macro nutrients up front (first day after water change).

Hygrophila Polysperma.

Have you calibrated your test kit?

It will increase GH. By using potassium carbonate or potassium bicarbonate, GH is unchanged.

Equilibrium is only for GH and adds some amount of K and Fe. This is why you are still seeing 0dKH. I recommend grabbing this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074D9BXRT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You can add it directly to the tank and adding 3.03g to your 123L will raise KH by 1dKH. This will also add 13.93ppm K to the tank as well. Keep that in mind. Hope this helps.

Take a good picture of the fish and post that with your water parameters.

I would think that would burn the plant.

You shoved a rot tab into the pot those plants are in?

I'm sure others can offer more. But maybe Kessil's or DIY LED's?

Don't waste your money with Itsa and the other cheaper options. Grab the CO2art and be happy you made the choice. Read here for all your questions about CO2. https://www.2hraquarist.com/

For 1, max would be a standard 55 gallon dimension. I have 2 on my 75. Anything larger than a 75, I would look to other options.

Probably ammonia burn and/or a bacterial infection. @Colu can probably get you sorted.

If you really want to be very accurate, set pinpoint numbers and know exactly what you are adding to your water; then give those products away or trash them. They are great products, but overly expensive and are difficult to measure. It sounds like you want to begin taking control of your water, and you will not regret doing so. Here's what you need. https://greenleafaquariums.com/products/magnesium-sulfate-mgso4-1lb-bag.html https://greenleafaquariums.com/products/calcium-sulfate-caso4-1lb-bag.html https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074D9BXRT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_BD4RBVWVV7T1MFWAX7XJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 https://rotalabutterfly.com/nutrient-calculator.php Any gram scale or a great set of measuring spoons. Each of those bags will probably last you well over a year. Plug in some numbers on Rotalabutterfly and done. See my signature on a quick guide on Rotalabutterfly. It's so easy, it just seems daunting.

If you ever get into CO2 and really start researching plants and planted tanks; you will find that the top people in the industry will say iron does not increase reds. It really comes down to over all health of the plant and light intensity. I would increase intensity and see what happens. https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/freshwater-aquarium-plants-guide/how-to-grow-red-plants?_pos=2&_sid=a6a99f7ab&_ss=r

The oak leaves? I boiled mine and some are still in the tank from over a year ago! Catappa are just better over all. But just my opinion.

I forgot to mention. Seachem makes a line of meds that can be mixed into food with their product call Focus. This allows you to target feed and is very cost effective. If you run into flukes, dosing the tank is very safe with Paracleanse. I've never lost a plant or animal using any med. Just FYI

Do you trust their word? If so, just add them. Ask them about their return policy too. If they stand behind it, you are probably safe.

Full degassed sample measured 7.0. I also checked KH and it was 1dKH. It seems Eco Complete is not so inert. I did some research and people have confirmed this problem. Looks like it will be some weeks before it is depleted and truly 0. Rechecked pH this morning and it was 6.0, if I get to 5.9, I'll be happy. I'm including a video of what it looks like when you start to have too much CO2 in the tank.

The best practice answer is yes. However, 10ml hydrogen peroxide in a gallon of dechlorinated water for 10 minutes should kill all parasites and algae. Rinse immediately after the 10 minutes with fresh water. Plants like jungle val will not like the dip but should grow after a few weeks.

You can use a uv light long term. It's not a detriment to the tank. Green water is always too much light with the presence of ammonia.

I would just mix your source water to the parameters that you want every water change. This will eventually cause the tank to match the source water. No reason to remove the shrimp.