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Found 10 results

  1. I have no idea why people monitor phosphate, and can't seem to find it on the various Co-Op sites. What's the good and bad of phosphate? Does it actually need monitored, or is it not really a big deal? (I try to keep things as easy as possible, so if there's not really a reason to monitor it... )
  2. I'm struggling with GSA now that the amount of plants in my tank is doubled. It's a 10g tank, understocked, with 1 female betta, 1 oto, and about 5 shrimp or so. The oto and shrimp are eating some of the GSA but they barely have any effect on its spread. I am dosing 2ml of Seachem Phosphorus every 2 days (which is about 8 times more than the recommended amount) to get the phosphates from 0.01ppm to around 0.3ppm. Whenever I dose phosphates GSA starts going away, but within a day the phosphates are gone almost completely again. I am getting annoyed with it since I don't like dosing daily, I'm trying to keep it down to twice a week. Anyone have experience with dealing with this problem? Should I just dose 4ml every time instead? (It's not the light because the GSA grows even in completely dark spots in the tank)
  3. I have dwarf water lettuce that isn’t quite thriving. Some of the leaves turn yellow and slowly disintegrate. According to the aquarium co-op nutrient deficiency graphic, it looks like the issue could be nitrogen deficiency or phosphate deficiency. Nitrates in the tank are generally quite high even without fertilizer (20-40ppm). So that would suggest that the issue is a phosphate deficiency? From the Co-op blog, it says phosphate deficiency is uncommon especially if I don’t have any phosphate absorption and I feed flake food to my fish. In addition, all the my cryptocorynes are doing well, bacopa caroliniana is green but new leaves are tiny, water sprite is turning brown and fading. Does phosphate deficiency make sense in this case? I did have a lot of brown diatom algae growth that some new otos cleaned up last month. Could the BDA have depleted the phosphates to such a degree?
  4. Hey everyone..so I’ve been battling staghorn/black beard algae for awhile now.I’m still dialing my ferts (easy green/easy root tabs).but I recently got a phosphate test by api and my phosphate is between 5 and 10 ppm in my planted tanks(those are the ones we tested) so my question what is the best way to lower phosphates to like 1 ppm without having to buy a chemical or a phosphate filter pad because I run sponge filters on my tanks.More water changes? (I do 1 weekly on my tanks) deeper gravel vac (with out disrupting the root tabs? ) or feed every other day?(I also have fry in my tanks and don’t want them getting eaten lol). Any advice would be awesome thanks everyone
  5. I’ve been battling Black Beard Algae and Green Spot Algae for some time now. I’ve adjusted my fertilizer dosing, I have adjusted my lighting, and now I am measuring phosphates. The algae doesn’t appear to be spreading, but I am trying to balance the tank so that I don’t have more problems. I bought a phosphate test kit and if I am reading this right I believe I am somewhere between 2-5ppm phosphates. I understand the number should be much lower. I am starting to research how to lower my phosphates. I guess I need to test the phosphates in my tap water. My tank is a 75 gallon planted tank. 76 degrees, 0 ammonia and nitrite, 5 nitrate, pH 7.4 - 8.
  6. Hello sweet people of the Aquarium Co-op community, My tap water has a high level of Silicon Dioxide (SIO2) and because of this i always had to fight Brown Diatom Algae. I did test this by doing less and less routine water changes. The Brown Diatom Algae would then dissapear (Yay! :]) but as the Brown Diatom Algae dissapeared i then faced Green Water Algae or phytoplankton. (Nay! :[ ) So i recently bought Silicate absorbing resin for in my HoB filter to remove the Silicon Dioxide from the water but apparently it will also remove Phosphate. Now i am wondering if this will lead to Phosphate deficiencies for my plants. (AAAAAAAAAH) Should i get an RODI machine instead, those seem expensive though. Help is very much appreciated.
  7. Trying to figure out where I want phosphate levels to be in a planted aquarium. I have a relatively planted aquarium and due to over adding iron and over feeding I believe to the 55 gallon aquarium I now have Moderate hair algae Siamese algae eaters are working on it a little but when investigating more water parameters I noted the high phosphate and began daily water changes which is reducing it but I really don’t understand where that level should be . Seems to be a topic which is ignored often. Don’t see much if any info around on the topic .
  8. Advice please. I have been having issues with algae. To cut a long story short, I have 1-2ppm phosphate in my water straight from the faucet ( thought some very bad thoughts about my new light). Don't want to buy distilled water. I thought my plants would take care of the problem. My thinking was add easy green (nitrates go down to 5 ppm with weekly fertilizing) and the phosphate would get used by the plants. Bought more plants... new plants getting coated in algae. I bought phosphate pad from aquarium coop. Added a piece to my hang on back filter. 24 hours later there is no change , phosphate still 1ppm. Do I need patience? more pad? or is there something else I could do? Christine
  9. Has anyone used a phosphate and nitrate remover pad in the aquarium or filter? I don’t want to use chemicals, water changes to get rid of nitrates aren’t getting them down fast enough, and I have too much phosphate that it’s browning algae a d killing my plants. if you do, how do you use it in your filter? My filters are full of sponges so should I just remove one and out these in? I can cut them to any size. Your experience will be helpful, thank you!
  10. I can't tell if I have too much, or too little, or what. According to the phosphate liquid test from API, I have 2 ppm phosphates in my tap water. The test registers the same in all my tanks, regardless of my feeding or fert dosing (some tanks get flakes more than others, some get live baby brine, some get more repashy, frozen, etc. -- some tanks get easy green, others just get potassium and iron). I even have a bag of Phosguard in my 90G filter as an experiment. It's been running with the phosguard for about 45 days, with no change in phosphate levels. I've had issues with a couple different plants, like dwarf sagg and hygrophila, that look like phosphate deficiency (green spot algae on yellowing leaves), but test shows 2ppm still, which by all Google indications is fine if not high. So, how accurate is that API test really? Is it even testing for the right thing, or is the phosphate in my tap water not "absorbable" or something? I did do a control test on distilled water and got zero phosphates.
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