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Torrey

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Everything posted by Torrey

  1. Yes, the park is closed. Yes, apparently it needs to be said. So far, Kirk is 10/and park visitors who don't follow rules are 0. There are a lot of interesting memes out there, discussing the bison commitment to respecting people's choices, I do not recommend drinking coffee while looking at the memes... or Native TikTok. (I had to clean my screen)
  2. @Penny what a handsome boyo! @H.K.Luterman I look forward to seeing video, and it's good to see you in the forum more often. You were missed!
  3. Your dwarf water lettuce is gorgeous!!! Happy Birthday!
  4. ORD🥰 I love responsible discussions!
  5. Every time I run into writer's block, I reread the Silmarillion and remind myself that Tolkien's journals filled his library, floor to ceiling and outside of the trilogy, the Hobbit, and the Silmarillion his son put together after he passed, the rest of it was background/world/character/family line building. Puts things in perspective, and alleviates pressure. Plus, it's a phenomenal insight into fairytales/oral traditions that were lost with "civilization" choosing to only value what was recorded on stones or paper. We forget, as a species, our relationship to the earth at our own risk. I suspect it's more along the lines of our evolutionary programming to pass knowledge from generation to generation via oral storytelling... a "hobby" that has been lost due to people over working and an emphasis on only documentable/GDP contributing work counting as "real work"
  6. The key seems to be not allowing the eggs to get submerged and drown/suffocate, and keep the humidity high enough to not allow the egg casing to harden😁
  7. The fact that he ate medicated food with more gusto... he may need the tank to stay around 83 F to 84 F (top of the tank is warmer than the bottom, as heat rises... even with evaporation) and the heat is helping boost his metabolism so he can heal better. Kind of like a fever in humans.
  8. I bought plain seltzer "carbonated water" is listed as the only ingredient? I'm ORD for all the images, and drooling a bit of Nerm appreciation for your microscope. Those are *really* clear images!
  9. This is an amazing picture!!! If they are getting them to wriggler stage, in a tank with other fish, you have a good breeding pair. In a big enough tank with sufficient plants and good, high quality food, the pair may do all the work for you. They will remove any fry they don't think are good for the gene pool, which I appreciated when I used to breed. I had too many tanks and not the same resources as Dean, so all my tnkas had UGF and I ultimately only kept breeding parents willing to do the work as parents. Benefit of letting parents do the job, is the fry they raise will be better parents themselves, and won't take as long to figure out how. Key to success is lots of plants, and if you go with UGF go with a fairly deep substrate and an uplift tube that is big enough for the python hose to go inside. Instead of gravel vac, just use the python to suck the UGF clean right after you remove fry to grow out tanks. The less the UGF (& gravel) is disturbed, the more stable the parameters and the less stressed your breeding pairs. @Brandon p this method works with discus, too. Stable waters, minimal stress and interference, plenty of plants to support microfauna for fry.
  10. I recently went down the rabbit hole of opportunistic, protogynous fish after a discussion about puffers. Apparently, it is a lot more common than is frequently discussed and typically requires a stress induction event. Which makes me think that my "how did this happen" endlers may be doing something similar. Typically, it's very easy to see a gonopodium (rather distinctive) and remove males as soon as they hit sexual maturity... but I have had a couple of incidents now where fish over 6 months old, who clearly did *not* have a gonopodium in a holding tank, developed a gonopodium. Until I started the autistic rabbit hole, I was beginning to think I just couldn't trust my eyes any longer..... As much as you watch your fish, I would say if you think you are seeing it, there's a 95% chance or better that you are seeing it happen before your eyes. @Colu thank you for sharing what you read! Due to some of the reports I am seeing of accelerating evolution, I do wonder what else may play a role in this happening in our tanks? Or has this always been happening, and just not noticed/discussed?
  11. Nerites typically crawl their way into increasing salinity to breed, so a slow gradual increase should theoretically work. That being said, I would grow some hair algae, and Q/T the nerites in a glass bottom container to make it easy to monitor for issues. Feed a hair algae chunk the size of a quarter to the nerites, as needed. Observe for any planaria for at least 30 days. Do the Reverse Respiration for the plants. Don't dump the water from the bag anywhere without treating it first. Options to kill planaria (and not merely get them to cyst up, and invade your water supply via sewage, etc) 1. Add H2O2 until amount of water is doubled, let sit overnight 2. Seltzer water to double the volume, and put in the dark for 24 hours 3. Add alcohol until water volume is doubled I actually keep planaria on purpose, for homeschoolers to use in science. Lots of experiments, lol
  12. I use the Terro, because after discussing with my vet ("I'm more worried about the damage the plastic will do to their gums than the borax in the Terro. Unless you are putting out 10 traps in reach of the dogs?") that seemed the safest option. Yes, litle dog managed to eat a trap. We had yellow foam to pick up for 2 days, and the dog had the cleanest intestinal track one can have without swallowing the GoLytely for a colonoscopy. If an ant is squished, it smells like borax, they never stick around for more than a few days except the week the forest fire was less than 2 miles away. The turtle has opinions about the weird tasting ants, and asks for more worms to cleanse the pallete (result of ants coming in for water in 3% humidity and horrible air quality).
  13. I have had multiple filterless tanks. There's a thread on a historical tank, I can't remember whose... anyway it doesn't even have air. I tried the no airstones.... and I also feed mosquito algae in the summer. Let's just say my filterless tank has airstones now. If you want more information, The Treatise on the Planted Aquarium by Dr Diana Walstad may interest you.
  14. I have a plethora I can test, as well as some Hercules. Yes, I may be holding a grudge over hteir overly aggressive job "cleaning" the melt off of my AR roseaefolia and scarlet temple... But, it's in the name of science!
  15. Depends on location. Summer temps get to 115 F, and there's no shade in the desert. So water towers get hot, and the water lines at 24" buried will be in the 80's pretty quickly. We've had "cold" water come out at 90 F before. Other countries, like Australia, Kuwait, and the SAE can have areas with even hotter water coming out of the tap. Totally depends on location. A bucket in the sink with a frozen water bottle in the bucket, and a pond pump to move it to the tank via the python, may become a necessity in your future.
  16. You have put in a lot of work. The glass bottom tank is a pain to look at, and it's the easiest way to get good pictures of a fish without stressing the fish. When I was treating Krishna for bad body and fin rot, I had to gradually increase salinity to 1 TBS per 3 gallons to *maintain* health, and 1 TBS/ 2.5 gallons to restart the healing if we regressed. I used so much IAL the water looked like strong Irish tea. I am thinking a guard around the heater may be beneficial. Some fish will burn themselves in a search for warmer water to help heal. I have used a heat lamp and a Pymeter, so the heat lamp (be very sure there is no risk of contact with water, massive fire risk) would keep the top 5" of water at 82-84 F, or get a guard for the heater and keep entire tank at 80 - 82F. I could also be completely wrong for Pinky, that has been merely been my experience. I think I see a return of reddish coloration, if the picture is matching what you see in the tank, I would get back on the Kanaplex as Odd Duck recommended. If possible, to decrease stress and improve water quality, try feeding tinier amounts of kanaplex, and use a nasal syringe or something similar to just remove the food debris within the hour of feeding. Better (if possible) to feed less food at a time, and feed a little more frequently. Easier on digestion an absorption, and reduces risk of fouling the water.
  17. @Randy didn't I see you netfishing in a similar area?
  18. We provided the 'coons there own pond (a kiddie pool) and threw leftovers (pruned aquarium plants, culled fish, etc) in there. Hardware cloth frames over the stock tanks, and get locks (can be as simple as a ratcheted strap that locking D rings attach the frame to) because the coons are smart. All they need is to watch you open a single pond once, and they will *all* know after one shows the rest of them. We've moved into their environment, we found it was easier and less stressful to work with them than fight them. A double fence around chciken coops and ponds also works, as long as the roof is further away than the length of their arms ~18", and the space between the double fencing is the same. If any try to get friendly in daylight hours, call animal control.
  19. I have predominantly antidotal information from Fish & Game: In TX, these things are a huge issue, because they lay eggs on the underside of plant leaves along the water ways. and at 90% humidity (or higher) and majority of days over 75 F, they hatch in under 3 days. Hard to find them in time to prevent spread, and they literally have hundreds of college students helping. However, they do not seem to survive in the areas with <50% humidity. The Rio Grande in NM has zero problems, so far. Gila river has not had any identified. River walk in San Antonio or Austin? They are everywhere....
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