Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Torrey last won the day on September 25

Torrey had the most liked content!


Recent Profile Visitors

379 profile views

Torrey's Achievements


Experienced (11/14)

  • Posting Machine Rare
  • Dedicated
  • Very Popular Rare
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done

Recent Badges



  1. This may be one of my favorite videos of Josh! That being said, I don't do moss that way 🤣 I have successfully done the blender and paint method, it does require patience. I have superglued moss, but I have not found that to be as successful. The most successful way to propagate moss, that I have found, is to grow it between 2 pieces of plastic canvas, and I pull out plugs as I need them. The plastic canvas sits on a bed of activated carbon in a pyrex rectangle, and then I put down the moss on top of the first plastic mesh (I started with a plug smaller than a quarter, this is a 5"×7" pyrex food container), then place another piece of plastic canvas mesh on top and let the moss grow through the mesh. (My light seems to have washed out the green, because irl it's much greener in appearance) I pull plugs out of the center and put them on wood that has soaked but isn't sinking yet. As the wood slowly sinks, the moss attaches, begins to grow, and acclimates to immersed growth. The moss here is slowly taking over this knoll of wood. Periodically the snails will eat it a bit aggressively, but it always looks better after the 'haircut'
  2. I second Odd Duck on this! I periodically 'touch up' my sand in the Walstad tank by rinsing sand until it's clean, then filling a ziploc freezer bag and cutting off the corner (like cake decorating) so I don't have a huge cloudy mess. I pretty much only do it for special photographs or filming, lol. Definitely not a regular thing I do. Deeper substrates definitely encourage better root growth, and make it harder for fish (or snails) to uproot. Not helpful for turtles😅 but @Atitagain has adapted my turtle & cichlid proof idea, and seems to be having success. A little plastic canvas around the base of plants gives plants something to anchor with, once they have grown enough roots (like under Odd Ducks glass dome idea)
  3. As long as you don't have fry or shrimp, I agree that they are awesome.
  4. 2nd snail from the top, what kind of snail is that? My spouse's g-ma had a snail like that, but it was much lighter in coloration. It also turned into a carnivore😅 As for the original question, I love all my snails. Now. After watching Cory wax eloquent on how important they are for the ecosystem. I always appreciated snails in the pond, and in the greywater treatment system we used snails in the cattails and reeds to eat the sludge. I just never appreciated them in my tanks, except as turtle food. Now, I have MTS in most of my (MTS🤣) tanks. Only a handful of tanks don't have the Malaysia trumpet in them. I intentionally have bladder snails. I accidentally ended up with a pond snail (Pebbles). I was bequeathed Houdini (zebra nerite) and Watson (no clue type of nerite). I apparently got some ramshorns on some plants that are a gorgeous golden red. And I have an assassin snail who gets to visit various tanks to keep any out of control growth, under control.
  5. @Zenzo, do you know if there are any same day tickets?
  6. I would talk to your lfs and also to folx in the CAS, and see if anyone can help in exchange for some offspring. Down here in our NMAS, there are a few of us who jump at the chance to take care of fry as a method of expanding our breeding stock. If you won't be gone more than 4 days, a green water tank or a daphnia tank may do the trick. Look at how many people in here have posted in the past month that they didn't realize that there were any remaining fry, and when they went to move a breeding pair into the tank were surprised by something darting across. Fry are incredibly resourceful at getting themselves fed as long as they are in a seasoned tank.
  7. Karma's dinner: I made fresh food tonight. This is what I scraped out of the blender after filling the ice trays. If you don't add the boiled clean egg shells, add the appropriate amounts of reptical and reptivites to the blender. Each ice cube square is 1 oz and 1 oz is considered a serving for an adult ornate. So look at how many ounces you have in the blender after you puree, and add the appropriate amount of supplements. Puree sufficient to blend in the supplements, then pour into ice cube trays, and scrape the remnants onto a bed of lettuce. I added freeze dried shrimp in lieu of croutons for the turtle salad.🤣 Tonight's meal prep was boiled chicken and bone meal, blueberries, carrots, sweet potatoes, egg shells, squash, and some leftover pumpkin. Also nopales and green tuńa (prickly pear fruit).
  8. @Krys I have helped a fair number of folx figure out accommodations as part of my daily job. Things that can make it easier to service the aquarium: A stool (adjustable, tall bar stools) to sit on that ensures your weight is easily distributed on 4 legs, and your armpit is at least 2" above the tank will reduce the pinching. If you already have a glass lid, and it's cutting your hand(s), if someone can assist you in cleaning the glass lid really well (isopropyl alcohol helps), and then apply silicone beading to the entire edge (or front and back edges and leave the last 1/2" on the 2 ends, if you want to put the glass in a slide support, to slide back and forth) will keep you from having to lift it. Other possibilities are the "lift and tilt" hinges they have started using in desks and coffee tables so you can elevate the surface. If the tank is against a wall, and you own your home, there are a lot of possibilities that will allow you to lift the lid and have it held in place. I use shop lights for several of my tanks, because light weight, inexpensive, and they will take a beating. The fish took a few months to adjust to the fact that the shop light was going to be moved when I service the tank to either hang on the back between the tank and the wall, or be slid to the back, or for the 4' tank, taken off the top of the tank and be rested on the end on the floor, with the other end against the wall, and leave the light on so I can see in the tank as the light illuminates it from the side. (Did I mention lightweight and nearly indestructible?) Since I never know when fibroflare, or unidentifiable nerve issues will flare up, I plant heavy and stock carefully, and have gotten rid of all filters except sponge combined with UG, so my tanks can survive if I can't service for some reason. I have to avoid vibrations in my hands, because it takes my nerves weeks to recover. That being said, electronically removing water is safer for me and the fish. Pond pumps or electrical fluid transfer units come in handy. Look at how the tank is planted. Would adding more plants along the ends and back part reduce needing to clean the glass? What kind of substrate do you have? Are there any fauna that can be added to work the substrate for you, so you don't need to gravel vac (turning the substrate means letting the aquarium animals turn the mulm into the substrate for the plants to use). I am testing out theories in my Walstad, not just because I got 2 tanks for the price of 1, but also because I need to set up my dining room tank in a manner to accommodate my physical limitations that are not going to get any better. If you aren't looking at TikTok, there are some wonderful inspirations for how to create better accessibility accommodations. The more creative you are willing to be, the easier (and less painful and less numb) aquarium keeping can be.
  9. Is your hinge the clear silicone? If yes, I cut mine down the center with a brand new utility knife blade and a metal straight edge. Put the glass edge in the center, and attach the "handle" to the silicone edge to slide the front back over the back part for maintenance. Now that we live in the desert, very few of my tanks have lids, so I can keep the humidity in the apartment high enough to not have nosebleeds. 🤷‍♂️ In NC & WA, I kept lids on my tanks, lol
  10. @Kevin F. I really like the wall of bubbles in the back. Did you make it, or buy it? None of the ones I have tried actually deliver the fine bubble mist that is promised. You are lucky to have a spouse who supports your aquarium habit. I mean hobby. <😅> It has taken 4 years of marriage and 3 years of dating to get to that point.
  11. If you ever make it out to NM, we have several active rugby teams, a lot of Samoans (who knew, in the desert 🤷‍♂️), and most of the high schools also have rugby teams. In the spring, during one of the Highland games days, we have been known to have some of the most competitive rugby sevens play for some of the smallest crowds. Last decade, several of our Brujos team had played with several of the NZAB for a global competition for pro players who couldn't do the Olympics. (My cranial flatulence has the name of the games just outside of typing memory). TBH, I spent more time stitching eyebrows back together than watching the games🤷‍♂️ I do love being able to watch the high school kids play. They are still so passionate about creating a better world through sports, it gives me hope for my grandboos. <oops, hit submit by accident> I miss the Scorpions being based here, it was fun to spend a Saturday hip checking on a pickup game at the ice rink. So I guess I am going in the opposite direction: I don't follow hockey anymore since we lost our pro team.🤷‍♂️
  12. How do you determine if you are feeding enough, or too much, or not enough? If I feed the endlers in the turtle pond to the point that they are never really hungry, they breed like crazy and I see poorer genetics. If I feed the exact same amount, regardless of the number of fry, they will predate on the fry. If I feed somewhere in between, the endlers are happier, the genetics look best, the reproduction rate is manageable, and the nitrates stay under damaging levels, even when Karma eats the majority of the plants. Karma, of course, is the predator that drives the genetics in the turtle pond: fast, intelligent, and not very big... but able to work together. In Puget sound, there are much larger predators that keep the population in check. If not for the larger predators, the available food would keep the populations in check, and smaller predators would be more efficient. So I guess, ultimately, you have to decide which parameters you want to work within. Are you going to rerelease any, if they breed to large a colony? Or do they need to maintain livable parameters and numbers with minimal intervention on your part?
  13. @Jennifer I have a Walstad inspired tank, and I had to make a chouce: root tabs for my heavy feeder or accept their loss. Diana Walstad recommended accepting the loss. I wasn't willing (I have always wanted a few of the plants and have never had success before) so I give a few plants root tabs
  • Create New...