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Torrey

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Everything posted by Torrey

  1. They will all look like females until about 4 weeks old. Then the gonopodium will begin to develop. Adding some sort of strong water flow offers them an opportunity to exercise, when I have fry in a mesh breeder box I will put the breeder box in front of an internal HOB style filter for about 20 minutes twice a day. Stronger muscles in the caudal area prevent fry developing a hunched back. The stronger flow also keeps water quality higher in the breeder box. Fry that die shortly before adulthood typically are either underfed, or nitrates/water quality wasn't quite right for their developing gills. Fry are more sensitive to higher nitrates than adults, and slow growth is a prime indicator nitrates are too high for the fry.
  2. This also counts as what I've been doing today: I take out shrimp exoskeletons, examine them under my cheap microscope that attaches to my cell phone, and clean exoskeletons go back in the tank for them to eat. I find all kinds of interesting things, that probably only @Odd Duck or @OnlyGenusCaps would be able to identify, lol.
  3. My experience with snails, shrimp (and fish) is they won't attack healthy plants unless they are starving. Like, massively and chronically starving. Side benefit of feeding freshly blanched veggies (carrots, squash, green beans <minus the "bean">, etc) is as the snails and shrimp eat the plant matter, their poop is perfectly balanced fertilizer... So I am doing much better with my plants now that I am following @Guppysnail's advice "Have you fed your snails today?" It isn't always a nutrient deficiency problem. Sometimes it's a nutrient absorption problem. My pH got too high for the commonly used iron to be absorbed by my plants. Seattle_Aquarist and Mmiller explained Mulder's Chart of Plant Nutrition to me, and combined with my other plant chart that translates what I am looking at, to what my plants are trying to tell me, even my red stems are regrowing leaves in my tanks now. Plus, keeping blanched veggies and dark green leafies in the tanks at all times has increased the amount of microfauna in my tanks, allowing me to successfully breed even my NANF glass shrimp. So plants are healthier, inverts are healthier, fish are healthier. For the occasional plant the pops up with a little bit of algae, Reverse Respiration kills the algae, and also seems to be strengthening the treated plant so inverts limit themselves to eating the (now dead) algae, and not snacking on my leaves. I still have a deficiency I haven't fully identified in one tank, as the plants aren't developing roots as strong as the roots in my other tanks, but compared to where I was in the middle of June, things are already looking much better. I suspect snails get blamed for eating plants, because most of us don't feed our snails or shrimp enough, because we are worried about fouling the water. I don't gravel vac, I barely spot clean my substrate, I only do water changes when testing indicates a change is needed, I don't run CO2, and I use UGF plus sponge filters. NANF Glass shrimp tank on 7/2 above Berried female a week later Tank today My Scapes from Scraps tank, after I underfed snails and shrimp below Tank on the left is SFS tank. No red plants left, barely any stems and barely any Helferi grass left. I'll get a curent picture after the lights come back on... but I got a picture last night of the pearlweed pearling and a red stem growing back leaves So if you are noticing holes in your plants, and they don't show any signs of deficiency, I would recommend feeding blanched veggies on a skewer for you inverts, both as an indirect fert schedule, and to prevent them from starving and eating foods they wouldn't normally eat. FALL IS THE BEST TIME FOR LIME APPLICATION 08/27/2019 corn soybeans fertility general soil properties soil ph and lime sampling nutrient availability E-mail Share Print Email Share Print Soil nutrient availability and fertilizer use efficiency is pH sensitive. Grid sampling provides the best method for measuring pH differences due to its uniform acre size/sample area size. Field variance of pH values is driven by yield variation since the last pH correction, ammonium fertilizer applications and manure use in some cases. The irregular shape and size of predetermined zones of zone sampling lead to unseen pH variation that can result in over or under application of lime in some areas of the field. Balanced soil pH is the foundation to obtaining the most from soil fertility and maximizing yield.Extreme soil acidity or alkalinity can affect both nutrient (Diagram 1) and fertilizer availability.Additionally, soil pH outside the range of 6.0-7.5 can create an unfavorable environment for soil microbial life, adversely affecting soil health.Phosphorus is one of the most pH sensitive crop nutrients with a pH requirement around 6.7-6.8.At soil pH levels outside this range, phosphorus begins to form plant unavailable compounds with iron and aluminum at lower ranges, and calcium at higher soil pH levels.Even major nutrients like nitrogen become less available at pH 6.0 or below. The ideal soil pH range for a corn-soybean rotation is 6.0-6.5. When alfalfa is in the rotation a pH of 6. 8 is recommended.Ideal pH ranges are partially based on each essential nutrient having an optimum range of availability that is represented by the green-yellow range of each bar in the image below.While these areas of optimum availability don’t all align perfectly, macronutrient availability of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium lies in the 6.0-6.5 pH range.Recall that macronutrients are those needed by plants in the greatest quantity.While this places calcium and magnesium at a slight availability disadvantage, these two secondary nutrients are found in the higher volumes in mineral soils, being continually added with lime across time. Micronutrient availability remain at best availability for this pH range (6.0-6.5), except for molybdenum (Mo).Mo ideal pH range is extremely high and unsuitable for all other nutrients. Diagram 1. Soil pH effect on nutrient availability. Hope this helps you as much as it helped me!
  4. Leaving open for judging, hopefully we have some more interactions today! If you are ORD and comment: ORD + one of the following "Thanks" = 4 points "Love" = 3 points "Laugh" = 2 points "Like" = 1 points I can still add the points to the entry. Because ORDs happen!🤷🏼‍♂️ @xXInkedPhoenixX are you allowing ORDs on your Design Competition? (Want to add a link here so people can find?) ** this allows for ranked voting, so everyone can get a vote!
  5. Here's my skin of my teeth entry: I removed the walls in the second image to show the sink, racks, rack dimensions, and desk. TinkerCad doesn't have sinks or faucets, so I got creative😂 The 200" x 200" is the inner grid work or "Working Plane" and I built out from there. Used the dimensions of my living room, where I just built my first real rack, with each of the 4 shelves rated for 2000 lbs. Patient Spouse™ is definitely becoming a Reluctant Nerm™! <Edit: First "real rack" since I moved back to NM in 2009, figured I should clarify.> When I bred before, I custom built most of my aquariums... in the 90's that was frequently less expensive than buying aquariums (except when Kmart and Walmart put all their fish rooms on clearance). All tanks here are either 10 -14" tall (middle shelf) or 21" tall (bottom and top shelves) for ease of cleaning and access. So 5 gallons, 10 & 15 gallons, and 25, 55 75, & 125 gallons on the bottom and top shelves (unless I custom build). Far right would be NANF, with the back SANF, and the short left 2 shelves high dedicated to breeding from the rest of the world. Small tanks would be dedicated inverts from the region of the shelf. Heat mats under dedicated tropical species on top shelves, but room would probably stay at 69 F - 72 F for my comfort and for the comfort of NANF.
  6. When breeding livebearers, the rule of thumb to know for sure who the dad is, separate the females from the males, and wait for 3 months after the last fry are born *and* the females stay pink at the gravid spot. Even then, I have had a few females throw fry that I was 99% sure came from the old male. I have had female endlers give birth to fry a full 6 months after I removed all the males.😅 There's a reason guppies are called "million fish"
  7. Roots of floating plants (duckweed, frogbit, redroot floaters, water lettuce, water hyacinth if an outdoor summer tub) are excellent hiding spots for fry. So is milfoil, hornwort and cabomba. Basically, any plant that can grow densely like pearlweed, to provide holes small enough for fry to slip through, but not any larger fish who may want to eat the fry. Plus, plants provide hiding spaces for microfauna for the fry to eat.
  8. I'm counting 3 entries. I will announce first, second and third tomorrow. @Hobbit, @Chick-In-Of-TheSea & @nabokovfan87 thank you for such wonderful entries!!!
  9. Thanks to everyone who participated, I will leave open for judging until Sunday evening! All entries after this post are purely for NERM ENJOYMENT! Please respond to your favorite entries so I can tally up emoji reactions tomorrow!
  10. Congratulations @FrozenFins @nabokovfan87 & @Chick-In-Of-TheSea! Well deserved recipients, all 3!!!
  11. I ended up having a procedure, and didn't get to enter either @Minanora. There's always next year!
  12. It does not have to be re-writing of product directions! Any directions that can be written out (nitrogen cycle, how to clean an aquarium, how to dose salt, how to clean plants with RR from @Guppysnail and dasaltmelosguy, literally anything in the hobby, even how to level a stand, is fair game!) Most important piece written, to keep the peace!
  13. ORD and thank you!!! I can remember things better, if I understand the why. I'm glad to not be alone! @nabokovfan87 if there's no RO or distilled water to rinse test tubes, they can be dunked in the tank a few times to eliminate the risk of sink water fouling the results.
  14. There is currently a sale happening on AmScope🧐 including a sale on the image conversion eye piece (on any scope with multiple eye-pieces, so the eye piece is removable, a USB conversion to record and put on the computer screen)
  15. @nabokovfan87 I believe you asked for an example? Also, for anyone else needing a little inspiration to get started: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1laq4VCGJBmU9d2eiml4Mzhj550VGFcIJRtGTh7mzTAM/edit?usp=sharing Rewritten Directions Date: 2022/07/10 API Master Test Kit TIPS FOR SUCCESS: Invert /shake all reagent bottles before using to ensure even distribution of reagent in the solution. Hold test reagent bottles upside down, completely vertical when adding drops. Double check expiration date. Ensure all test tubes are cleaned, and then rinsed in RO or distilled water to improve accuracy of test. Fill test tubes so the top of the meniscus (top edge of water) is at the top of the white API line, and the bottom of the meniscus is at the bottom of the white line Do not store test tubes with caps on to reduce risk of caps leaking Wear a mask and goggles, as well as gloves. Some reagents are caustic. If possible, place test tubes in a test tube rack, and fill all test tubes with 5 mL tank water before starting to test to reduce risk of user error. Store reagents in a cool, dry place with lids tightly capped. Keep out of sunlight. pH TEST Why test pH? pH tests the number of hydrogen ion concentration in moles/liter It literally measures the hydrogen potential in water Neutral pH is 7 Water with a pH greater than 7 is “alkaline”, has less hydrogen ions, and offers less protection against ammonia Water with a pH less than 7 is acidic, has more hydrogen ions, and provides a greater buffer against ammonia Testing tips The minimum pH reading is 6.0 pH, and the maximum reading is 7.6 pH. This test can not offer pH readings below 6.0. If the reading for your tank reads yellow (6.0 pH) or if you are breeding blackwater/ high tannin fish, additional math will be required to identify the correct pH for your tank (or buy a pH meter for accurate results) Directions Fill a clean test tube with 5 mL tank water (line on API test tube) Holding pH Test Solution Bottle upside down and completely vertical add 3 drops of reagent to test tube. Cap the test tube securely and invert several times until reagent is fully mixed into the water in the test tube. Read the results by comparing the solution to the pH color chart in a well lit room. If using a test tube rack, a pure white light under the test tube makes it easier to read. If necessary, take a picture of the test tube next to the pH color chart, and convert the picture to grayscale to make it easier to read. The color on the pH color chart closest to the color of the test tube contents is the pH reading. Know what pH your fish were bred in, if possible. Some fish eggs require lower pH to successfully hatch. Other than breeding, most fish can acclimate to a wide range of pH, as long as conditions are kept stable and transitions are slow. HIGH RANGE pH TEST Why test with high pH kit? This kit tests pH between 7.4 pH and 8.8 pH. If your standard pH test reads 7.2 pH or higher (more blue), use this test kit to get an accurate pH measurement. Certain fish, like African Cichlids and many livebearers, as well as snails and many shrimp, need more alkaline water to thrive. If KH is low, measure pH regularly as low KH can lead to pH swings. Testing tips Under extreme water conditions, measurements below 7.4 pH and above 8.8 pH will still only read as 7.4 pH (lowest) and 8.8 pH (highest). If lower pH doesn;t show up on the regular pH test kit either (lower than 6.0 pH) or is reading 8.8 pH on this test, it is wise to invest in a pH meter which can be calibrated. Directions Fill a clean test tube with 5 mL tank water. Holding High pH Range reagent upside down and completely vertical, add 5 drops of reagent to test tube. Cap the test tube & invert test tube several times to ensure reagent is completely mixed in solution with the tank water. Read the results by holding the test tube against the white section next to the High pH Color Chart. To make it easier to read the colors, place a pen light or small white light against the bottom of the test tube. Can place test tube in test tube rack, with a light underneath, and take a picture of the test tube against the color chart. Convert image to grayscale to make it easier to read the correct pH. AMMONIA TEST Why test for ammonia? Fish continually release ammonia (NH3) into the aquarium via gills, urine and solid waste. Ammonia is a natural by-product of healthy, properly fed fish. Plants will utilize the ammonia for growth, and beneficial bacteria will convert ammonia into nitrites. If there are more fish (bioload) than the plants and bacteria can handle, ammonia will be left in the water column and burn fish gills, snails, and shrimp. Uneaten food and decaying plant leaves can also contribute to ammonia in the tank. A deceased wet pet can cause an ammonia spike. Some antibiotics can negatively impact the beneficial bacteria. New tanks need to have time to establish a healthy beneficial bacteria colony, and testing for the presence of ammonia allows new and experienced hobbyists alike to follow the establishment of the nitrogen cycle. Testing tips This salicylate-based ammonia test kit reads the total ammonia level in parts per million (ppm) [equivalent to milligrams per liter (mg/L)] from 0.0 ppm to 8.0 ppm (mg/L). Some users claim to find more accurate test results if they shake both reagent bottles before adding drops to the test tube. Double check to ensure the bottle marked TEST SOLUTION #1 is added first, and TEST SOLUTION #2 IS ADDED SECOND. Directions: Fill a clean test tube with 5 mL tank water (to the white API line on API test tubes) Holding reagent bottle #1 completely vertical, upside down add 8 drops from the solution #1 bottle. Holding reagent bottle #2 completely vertical, upside down add 8 drops from the solution #2 bottle. Cap the test tube and shake vigorously for 5 seconds. WAIT 5 MINUTES FOR COLOR TO FULLY DEVELOP. Read the results by holding the test tube against the white section next to the Ammonia Color Chart. To make it easier to read the colors, place a pen light or small white light against the bottom of the test tube. Can place test tube in test tube rack, with a light underneath, and take a picture of the test tube against the color chart. Convert image to grayscale to make it easier to read the correct ammonia level. Reducing Ammonia Levels As mentioned in “Why Test”, ammonia harms our wet pets. If ammonia is detected in a tank with wet pets, the ammonia needs to be removed. Products like Prime™ and AMMO LOCK™ can be used to lock the ammonia up for up to 24 hours, and a water change can reduce the amount of ammonia in the tank, protecting our wet pets. If there are no wet pets in the tank, plants and beneficial bacteria will utilize the ammonia, and a water change will only be necessary to protect the newly established beneficial bacteria if ammonia levels reach 2.0 ppm (mg/L). If ammonia hits 4.0 ppm in a newly cycled tank with no wet pets, do a 50% water change. If ammonia tests at 8.0 ppm, do multiple 50% water changes to bring it back under 2.0 ppm, and expect the nitrogen cycle to have stalled. Be sure to treat the tap water to remove chlorine/chloramine at all water changes. Many aquarists who keep testing positive for ammonia in their tanks have discovered they weren’t adequately treating their tap water, or their well has been contaminated by fertilizer run-off. RESOURCES TO EXPLAIN AMMONIA https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/nitrogen-cycle https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PWoiCqCvJco NITRITE TEST Why test for Nitrites? Nitrite (NO2-) is a byproduct from beneficial bacteria that consume ammonia. Additional families of bacteria will break the nitrites down into nitrates (NO3-) (covered in next section). Nitrite is toxic to all of our wet pets. Even trace levels can lead to stunted growth, or in sensitive fish and shrimp lead to a quick death. Any detectable levels of nitrites with any wet pets in the tank will need a prompt water change. Nitrite in the tank before we add our wet pets is a healthy indicator that our beneficial bacteria are starting to get established, and should be celebrated! Testing tips This test kit reads total nitrite (NO3-) in parts per million (ppm) which are equivalent to mg/L. To ensure test accuracy, invert the reagent bottle several times before adding drops to the test tube. Directions: Fill a clean test tube with 5 mL of water to be tested. Holding reagent bottle upside down and completely vertical to ensure conformity of drops, add 5 drops of Nitrite Test Solution (Nitrite Test Reagent). Cap the test tube and shake vigorously for 5 seconds. Wait 5 minutes for color to develop. Read the results by holding the test tube against the white section next to the Nitrite Color Chart. To make it easier to read the colors, place a pen light or small white light against the bottom of the test tube. Can place test tube in test tube rack, with a light underneath, and take a picture of the test tube against the color chart. Convert image to grayscale to make it easier to read the correct ammonia level. Reducing Aquarium Nitrite Levels If there are no wet pets in the tank, a water change is only necessary to protect the beneficial bacteria above 2.0 ppm. Readings between 2.0 ppm and 4.0 ppm need a 50% water change. Readings above 4.0 ppm need multiple 50% water changes, to get the total nitrites back under 2.0 ppm. IF THERE ARE WET PETS IN THE TANK no amount of nitrite is safe. Do multiple water changes to bring the nitrite levels down under 0.25 ppm. Identify what is causing the high nitrites (or the nitrites will go right back up): Are there nitrites in the tap water? A different water source may be needed. Are nitrites due to overfeeding? Feed less food at a time, and possibly feed more often. Remove food left behind after an hour. Has the beneficial bacteria colony been harmed with medicine? too aggressive of a cleaning? Feed lightly and clean up residual food for a couple of weeks, then gradually increase the amount of food. Are there decaying plants beyond the capability of your clean up crew? Trim back melt, evaluate clean up crew. None of the above? Look for a deceased animal hidden in the tank. NITRATE TEST Why test for nitrates? Nitrate (NO3-) is the natural byproduct of a healthy biological filter. Nitrate (NO3-) is a necessary component for healthy plant growth. Different fish have different sensitivities to nitrates, even within a species. Some fish are so sensitive to nitrates, low levels of nitrates can compromise their immune system making them vulnerable to opportunistic infections. High nitrates will stunt growth in fry. Snails and shrimp, and other inverts can be more sensitive to nitrates than fish. If snails or shrimp keep trying to escape the tank, and the only thing registering is nitrates, the nitrates are too high for those individuals. Some fish have an incredibly high threshold for nitrates, and will seem fine in high nitrates for a very long time. The higher nitrates may be the contributor to shorter lifespans. It is necessary to test source water for nitrates, as nitrates are frequently in the water supply in rural/mixed use areas. Nitrates can fluctuate in source water, depending on the treatment facility, rains, and run off. Testing tips This test reads total nitrate (NO3-) in parts per million (ppm) which is the equivalent of mg/L. The reagents for nitrates are extremely finicky. If you do not shake the reagent bottles extremely well, you will get false readings. Directions: To keep these directions memorable, and to reduce the risk of user error, we are including the directions from our O-chem instructor… Fill a clean test tube with 5 mL water. Shake reagent #1 bottle until arm feels like it is about to fall off. Holding bottle upside down & completely vertical, add 10 drops of Nitrate Test Solution #1 to the 5 mL of water in the test tube. (Yes, I know the directions don't say you have to shake the first bottle. I tell you to shake the first to make sure you don't forget to shake the second). Now, after adding 10 drops from the first reagent, cap and shake your test tube until reagent is fully dissolved in test water. Your lab partner should be vigorously shaking the second reagent bottle (labeled Nitrate Test Solution #2) until their arm *does* fall off. Then vigorously shake the bottle for 30 more seconds. (This is critically important for accurate results). Now, add 10 drops from reagent #2 while holding the Nitrate Test Solution #2 upside down and completely vertical. Cap your test tube with the better silicone caps, not the regular test tube caps (nitrate solutions are both caustic! Wrap capped test tube in a paper towel. Shake your test tube with whichever arm didn't fall off for 60 seconds, and then read the results 5 minutes later. “I want to know, is our tap water safe to drink?” Math Water that exceeds the test parameters It is possible to test RO or distilled water to establish the baseline If RO water is 7.0 pH, it can be mixed 50/50 with tank water that reads below the 6.0 pH (or above the 8.8 pH) and then 5 mL of the 50/50 water can be tested The logarithm can then be computed once the pH registers above 6.0 pH (or below 8.8 pH) To prevent brain drain from ruining the hobby, those of us who struggle with higher level math may be happier buying a pH meter. Date: 2022/07/10 Science Aquarium keeping really is about water chemistry. Even if we don’t have a clue what we are doing, and failed chemistry in school, keeping a healthy aquarium is about practical, hands wet, water chemistry. Healthy plants are the result of healthy water chemistry, even if we don’t have a test yet to measure/identify what is out of balance. It is easier to have healthy wet pets, if we first establish healthy plants. Fish and plants are both a lot more forgiving than we give them credit for. No amount of testing can replace good, old fashioned, observation. A combination of testing, documentation of observations, and quarterly reviews (hint: excuse to take pictures) will help us as hobbyists start identifying trends and correlations in our tanks. Be Nermy, and HAVE FUN! Addendums: Tank Maintenance Spreadsheet Figure 1. Nutrient availability in relation to pH. The thicker the bar the more available the nutrient. Figure 2. Mulder’s chart of antagonistic (solid lines) and synergistic (dashed lines) elements. (Figure 1 & 2 Courtesy of MSU) The Fish Keeper's Guide to pH, GH, and KH | Water Chemistry 101 – Feel Free to Make a Copy of These Directions if They Help You!
  16. My family is still back East. It's been 100 F with 95% humidity for too many weeks, and A/C used to not be needed.... Lots of homes getting retrofitted... if HVAC has the supplies in stock. Kind of like the PNW last year with the heat dome...
  17. Not true! Once all the tanks are full, it's time to buy more tanks. .. or try our luck at your plant rack system!
  18. Is there anyone in the tank who may have torpedoed him in the side? Because bruising from an injury can be one sided, and look pretty similar. You already have a lot going on with him med wise, so I would see how that works. I (personally, based on past experiences with fish) would have started with an epsom salt bath, I need to verify the dosage for getting down swelling in fish. I haven't had to use that remedy much since I quit breeding cichlids in the 90's... Jack Dempsey's can be real buttheads, and I would frequently wake up to a fish swollen on one side, swim bladder balance issues, and plants dislodged, as a cooler temp water change would make them think it had rained and they needed to spawn. Not saying conclusively that is what you are looking at, just saying if you stretched your red pencil out to the size of SA Cichlids, that's what the rest of my cichlids would look like the morning after a water change. I've seen it in my zebra danios, a couple of times, when one danio will get a bit too enthusiastic during feeding time (this is why I no longer fast my zebras once a week) and nails one of the other danios in the side. It can cause bruising (their heads are HARD) and an epsom salt bath can reduce edema.
  19. This is how I feed all my fry. It means I am using a tiny nasal suction, or an airline tube connected to a big medicine syringe 2x/feeding: suction out debris/partial water change, feed, an hour later suction out leftovers. With newborn fry just done absorbing their yolk sac, they get fed every 3 to 4 hours. By 2 weeks, I am down to feeding every 4 to 6 hours during the day. Trade-off for the extra work? Better health
  20. Link to the Rewritten directions: https://forum.aquariumcoop.com/topic/24976-nermweek-re-written-directions-competition/
  21. Welcome to the Nerms! You joined just in time to participate in Nerm Week 2022, I hope you are able to have fun! <Gorgeous tank btw!>
  22. I don't see CO2, so why don't you test a siesta schedule for a while? There's been a bunch of discussion around it, but the underlying science resonates. 1. Plants use up the maximum amount of CO2 in the first 3 to 4 hours lights are on 2. Plants respirate out CO2 when the lights are off. Passive CO2 saturation hits maximum 4 hours after the lights turn off. We can use this to our advantage in low tech systems, by setting our timers to have lights on for a maximum of 4 hours at a time. In new tanks, I start with 3 hours on at a time, until plants start showing growth, then I increase to 2 separate (or even 3 separate) chunks of time, with the lights on for a *maximum* of 4 hours at a stretch, and lights off for a *minimum* of 4 hours at a stretch. The prevailing theory is algae can't compete with plants when the CO2 is at maximum saturation, and therefore the plants will consume the most nutrients during the first 3 to 4 hours lights are on. Then, turn the lights off, allow plants to rest (and CO2 to build back up), and after 4 hours repeat the cycle. I have to work pretty hard to grow algae when I follow this principle, except in new tanks which *need* to go through the cycle of various algal growth that follows a specific schedule: Brown diatom (new tanks) Green diatom/green filamentous algae (establishing a cycle) Green hair algae (cycle starting to balance) Black Beard Algae/staghorn algae (almost established tank. Excessive growth tends to indicate an imbalance) Consider the various stages of algae as a tank's "awkward teen stage". Using a siesta time period, and increasing the numbers of plants, will reduce the outbreaks, but won't always eliminate them. I'm still researching cyanobacteria, because I had a pretty bad outbreak of it myself in 2 tanks. H2O2 will get rid of it, but can damage plants and animals. Plants that can be removed and soaked overnight in seltzer water ( ) is a great way to eradicate all algae (and bacteria, and pests), but that isn't always practical... so I am trying to identify how to prevent it. Oxygenation seems to be the answer, increased aeration prevented it from coming back. Most folx are not aware, that life on earth as we know it today, is due to cyanobacteria (I didn't even know this until a few weeks ago). Cyanobacteria caused a mass extinction event by generating oxygen as a byproduct of cyanobacteria metabolism. That mass extinction set the stage for microfauna and microflora to evolve, and then evolve into plants and animals that are dependent on oxygen. While plants are the earth's lungs.... cyanobacteria is literally an oxygen machine. Too bad it suffocates whatever it grows on🤷🏼‍♂️
  23. I came to say definitely not Brotia herculea. The Hercules looks more like a really chunky MTS. If the shell ended in a sharper point, it actually reminded me of my dullest colored assassin, but their foot doesn't look anything like a Mystery snail. Reading through, and taking side research rabbit holes, juvenile JTS looks the most promising. Since they have made their way onto the banned list in 13 states so far, it makes sense they would be mislabeled as Pagodas.... I think they are adorable, are you going to go pick them up tomorrow?
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