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Lennie

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Everything posted by Lennie

  1. Yea def agreed. I always start my tanks on 6 hour and and established densely planted tanks on 7 hour lighting period. This is what works best for me too. 15 sounds huge! 😄 Also thankfully all my algae eaters except nerites accept commercial food so I am lucky on that part to support their diet as well.
  2. Yes, you read it correctly. I used to think algae is harmless and a part of the natural system so I was not overthinking about it. But personally, I no longer think it is harmless at this point. My java moss and driftwood started growing hair algae at some point. It is really annoying, but if it is no harm, it is fine I thought. I was wrong. I have seen my rabbit snail got stuck to the hair algae from its head and was not able to move. I have seen my rummy nose almost choking on algae when it tried to eat small food particles over the algae, algae got into its gills, and it was like a dog on leash. He made it out it in a minute or so when I was washing my hands to try to help. I have seen my berried shrimp got her leg stuck on the hair algae so she was desperately trying to get rid of it. I was again lucky enough to see and save her. And today, I have seen my juvenile angel got stuck in it as a whole when I came home. That was literally the last straw. Happy to taking this tank down soon, and instantly threw all moss to trashcan as I no longer have shrimp and potential babies in this tank. Besides it potentially looking unpleasant to some, these are all scenarios I was lucky enough to witness. There is probably many more that we can't even be able to see as none of us have time to watch the tanks all the time. what do you guys think? Anyone had similar experiences? OR are you guys on team algae 😄 Team algae :D! :
  3. Hello, welcome to the forum 🙂 I checked what 14g cube refers to, and if I am not wrong it is 38cmx38cmx38cm approximately. From the fish listed above, I keep everything except kuhli loaches. I would consider borneo suckers instead of hillstream loaches for that tank size. They like to be in a cooler temps and high flow well oxygenated waters, but in my experience as long as the water is oxygenated well they can tolerate higher temps. It is a bit hard to have a good surface agitation and water movement with a betta tho. rummy noses love to swim a lot. I have some in my 60cm tank, and moving them to my 100cm tank in the following days. They enjoy a big school and vertical swimming space. In my experience, otos like a big group and feel secure that tway. You never know if they will ever accept commercial foods or blanched veggies. So you should always have an established tank with algae and biofilm available all the time. The problem with keeping otos in smaller tanks is, in order to make sure they can graze on algae you need to cut their school size a lot as they literally consume algae A LOT and they may run out of food easily if they don’t accept commercial foods. I have 5 in my 33g/ 50cm cube heavily plant tank and they ate all algae there in 2-3 days after I waited algae to build up for 2-3 months. Thankfully they like to school with pygmy cories ( I have 16) and they taught them to eat commercial foods. Maybe you can try a school of pygmy cories and ottos and expect them to enjoy each others company. But that is my very own experience and I haven’t seen anyone else mentioning this before. Probably I just got lucky the thing is, bettas are really not a community tank fish. If you don’t have a backup plan in case anything goes wrong, I would not try a betta community tank. If you have other established tanks that you can separate fish in case betta shows agression, then you can try. The problematic side is, if you wanna try a betta community tank, it is adviced to introduce the betta at last. Now the tank is its territory, and you are planning to add new fish into is territory. Things are very likely to go wrong.
  4. Ph from my tap is 8.0-8.2 and kh reads 20z since My kh is pretty high, it barely affected my ph really. Even followed by %50 ro water %50 tap water water changes every week around 20-25% over the weeks, the lowest ph I have seen ever is 7.5. And lowest kh I have seen was 13. It emptied my gh for the first two months tho even when I was dosing equilibrium to “soften” the water. Not anymore. If your kh is high like mine, I guess it can’t really affect the ph. If your kh is on the low end, then it may make a difference on that regard I believe. As a note, I use frodo stone in my setups. Some people say that it increases kh and ph. Again, as my kh and ph is normally high, I believe I could not observe any real effects on that one. I tested it with vinegar but no reactions whatsoever. So idk if they balance each other in the tank in a way I don’t have a direct impact on. Just wanted to share this as a side note. Gonna have a setup where I won’t be using frodo stones in the future once I move my fish from my 29g to their new tank. It may give me a chance to compare stuff. What’s your ph and kh?
  5. Every week, %20-25, including gravel vac with very slow flow. Actually water changes increase my nitrate amount in the water as my tap reads 20, but my tanks read around 10 at the end of the week 😄
  6. Tagging @Odd Duck too hoping one of them may see your question faster than another maybe. Hope your lil friend gets better soon!
  7. Could you please share your water parameters and test results, as well as a picture if possible until @Colu comes online and may help
  8. Very pretty, female bettas are underrated:)
  9. Not to jinx it, but I never use lid in any of my aquariums. I just love using mixture of floating plants and let them build some sort of a natural lid. I also avoid keeping fish that are well known as jumpers, like killis. I feel like there are some factors that triggers fish’s jumping behavior. Some fish have their jumping ability instinctively as a part of their daily action like killis. Some fish use jping as a way to escape from agression and a bullying situation. Some may try hunt that way too. Or some scenarios like a ph shock I personally believe, as long as you don’t go for jumpers like killis, hatchetfish, etc, and keep peaceful fish, it should be fine. Rachel O leary keeps almost all of her tanks without a lid too. You can check her channel, she does an amazing job. But there is no need to risk well known jumpers or escapers like hatchefish mystery snails etc. Goodluck in your new setup, excited to see it
  10. Hello there @LoveMyPlatys, I believe you did the right thing! Ithink it is for the best for your betta to be separated from that tank. Lots of action around usually stresses betta out and opens the door for potential diseases. Also barbs are known to be nippy in general, so keeping barbs with long fin fish is not recommended. Barbs are very active animals and needs lots of swimming space. Just as barbs, kuhli loaches are also schooling fish so it is generally the more the merrier, man-made lowest number suggested being 6 in general, to give an idea they love to be around their own friends. In a 5 gallon, only shrimp and small snails could be considered for a a betta tank mate. He might me interested in precious antennas of mystery snails by thinking they are worms! So you may try small sized “pest” snails maybe? like 2-3 cute pink or leopard ramshorn snails can be nice if you like them! They may help with uneaten food and algae too. Bettas are usually agressive, and they will see shrimp as a food. 5 gallon is not big in size and would allow a betta the minimum tank size available as it is. To introduce shrimp and let them be safe you need to densely plant a tank and add hiding spaces. These will all cut from the swimming space of the betta. Could be considered by taking a risk of them being eaten in a bigger sized tank with lots of plants, but in a 5g, if you introduce lots of plants, there will be no space for betta to swim. I would personally suggest a couple ramshorns you like the color of. Also as you move your centerpiece fish betta from your main tank, you may consider something with a shortfin as a centerpiece fish there instead! Best of luck,
  11. Did you keep cutting its leaves that it shooted to reach surface? Aka “trained” it?
  12. What is the way to recharge the dirt on the bottom after a while as these type of tanks are meant to be not disturbed after being set up? Because even normal home plants that are being raised in pure soil requires recharging and fertilizers, and sometimes change of the soil itself.
  13. Hey Sherry! Yes, I do read ammonia every time I use Tropica aquasoil. The last time I checked, there was 0.5 mg/l ammonia/ammonium in the new tank I setup last week. I do %50-60 water changes once every 2-3 days for the first 3 weeks and I introduce estalished filter afterwards. Generally, at the end of 3 weeks and running an established filter 1-2 days, the ammonia and nitrite clears out. Then I move my fish. It works pretty good for me this way so far. Tropica also advices to make big water changes during the first month. If you have any questions, I would like to help more. You can always ask here or private message me Cheers,
  14. Great trick! I've created a topic about this before, and many people shared their own way. Maybe you would like to read it. Also maybe you'd want to share you experience there too! So someone who tries to explore new ways may have access to yours as well. Cheers,
  15. II don't know how active they are lately but @Gannon may help! 🙂
  16. Your welcome! There is two rooted ones next to each other here: I used the same bulb for a third plant, and now it is sprouting the 4th one!:
  17. People share on youtube, either listed or unlisted, and copy paste their youtube video link here
  18. @Biotope Biologist has mentioned that it is an allergen before and adviced to remove it. Maybe they may help further.
  19. I personally like sponge filters as an assistance and HOBs as my main filter source. In my 29g I have a HOB with 550 lt/h performance as well as a medium sized sponge filter. I feel like this combination works the best for that tank size. Good flow, surface agitation, HOB offers nice amount of media box as well as option to use purigen, biorings, filter floss, active carbon etc. Also has a waterfall effect if that's your thingy. I personally would not do a single sponge filter but it also depends on your budget for the current tank setup. We can't always spare enough money for a new tank and may need to work with what we have on the hand. I would try to do either 2 sponge filters, or preferably one HOB one sponge filter. Or a good HOB and Neo air diffuser, which is my new fav combo to run. I personally find sponge filters a bit weak for mechanical cleaning. They do not provide a good circulation, so the tank has dead spots. Also when you compare the amount of gunk you have on a sponge filter and HOB prefilter in a week of running, the difference is pretty big. My HOB prefilters literally get yucky and full of detrius. Sponge filter, far from doing the job HOB prefilter does. Biologically, they can both help anyway.
  20. Well, as others mentioned, either died and got eaten, or jumped and you will probably find the dead body dried somewhere unless you have pets around. I don't think Albino corys have a good vision. I personally haven't seen them hiding like most other corys tbh.
  21. They might be in the wrong position. Try to play around it and see if it will work! Also, just to make sure, only around 1/3 part of it is burried right? In addition, I've seperated my plants from their bulb after a while they grow enough leaves and roots, and I managed to get 4 different lilies from a single bulb. Something maybe helpful
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