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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Depends on what you want. In something like your case it'd be a stand to hold what need be for tanks / rack. I would buy supplies, equipment, make sure contamination isn't an issue if need be. Second to that would be food, especially repashy, and things that make life easier raising fry. Maybe get the supplies need be to set up a dean's fry tank type of system. Plumbing parts, etc. I personally would spend it on food and plants. There are some things I need like tweezers for aquascaping, but beyond that it's the day to day stuff. Hardscape, wood, substrate, etc. Things you always need, but are always too much to purchase. I'd be looking real hard at a 307.
  2. nabokovfan87
    Removing the moss, treat that. Then treat the stone separately. I have 3 small rocks (one with each method) and then I have one bigger rock I'll just scrub by hand and try something. The moss is attached to the big rock, the three smaller ones have BBA all over. Will do. Need a good amount of peroxide. 😞 Will do. I also have a method using easy carbon at a particular dose to try. Last time it "worked" but the amanos just didn't get rid of it. Fry happened and so I can't siphon as much as I'd like. I'm sure that's not helping the phosphates.
  3. nabokovfan87
    I would seal it. Filter will work better as well. I have a thread in the experiments section of you're interested in checking out the how to.
  4. nabokovfan87
    Agreed. Working on it. I'm going to be using an electric toothbrush on the next test run. I'm getting another bloom but this time the amanos have been helping. Making me think one type died, this is a different type. It has a slightly different look to it, but difficult to tell. I made more changes, fixed more issues, broke a diffuser on accident, and hopefully things "settle down" and then I can go ahead and run the test. I have about 4-5 portions of moss I need to treat and reglue. Then go through everything again. I'm just trying to figure out where I went wrong, but also fix issues. Thank you for the help, will do!
  5. nabokovfan87
    Just a FYI post for those who want to "colony breed" corydoras. It's been 5 weeks at this point with my fry. Normally I will see them in the colony anywhere from 3-6 weeks after eggs. Not a joke, they are just microscopic or very good at hiding unless you know what to look for. I tent to go the route of checking on things late at night, trying to see the fry do their thing while the rest of the tank sleeps. This is also a great time to feed repashy or some pellets too and give them a chance to get some food without the stress of waking monster fish looming around them. But, the real mention here is that if you are specifically raising fry, you want to release them back into your community tank, and you're limited on space. I would not release them prior to 6 weeks, I would opt for 10 weeks if you can keep them in the breeder box for that long or the QT tank/tub setup. There's a few reasons for this and perhaps that makes sense for another post on another day. I'll run some water tests tomorrow. I am hoping to be allowed out of the house and get some air (and coffee) for the sake of it. I am off to go stare at the fry in awe, watch them eat some stuff and then hopefully get some rest. Still cloudy on the right. One day it'll be clear again! Edit: here is some pictures of fish doing their thing. Something cool of note, the fish that grew up in the tank is about 1/2" long now. Pretty big by comparison to the hand raised fry which are about 1/4" or smaller. The bigger of the fry, colony raised style, is sleeping in the cave with the parents without fear while all of the other fry are eating and hiding in the S. Repens garden. I didn't see anyone hiding in the moss shelf, probably because of flow, but there is some nice cover there. I did catch this little on at the front glass as well as this other dry napping on a tiny hole in the seiryu stone. It does give you perspective of the scale and how some cracks or edges in your hardscape can give you that additional haven for the fry to hide when raising up. Plants are cover, but corydoras do love their rock shelves to nestle on. The small lip on the rock to the right protects the fish from flow, I would imagine it feels camouflaged against the rock, especially at night without the flashlight on it. Edit 2: I won't do this every time, but here's two tanks. I am thankful things are similar this week (fixed my dosing difference). I do plan to run an off-gas test and figure out what's going on with my water from the tap losing GH. Black Schultzei Corydoras Tank Test Results: Note: water changes done on Sunday afternoons. Temp: 72 Phosphate: 3.0-4.0 ppm Ammonia: 0 ppm Nitrite: 0 ppm Nitrate: 20 ppm PH: 6.8 KH: 80 ppm GH: 150 ppm Panda Corydoras Tank Test Results: Note: water changes done on Wednesday afternoons. Temp: 71.5 Phosphate: 2.5 ppm Ammonia: 0 ppm Nitrite: 0 ppm Nitrate: 25 ppm PH: 7.0 KH: 70 ppm GH: 150 ppm
  6. nabokovfan87
    It's a tank that has been outside, for some unknown amount of time, so it's a major red flag for me. I wouldn't have purchased it. Long term heat / cold and outside conditions aren't good for tanks. Sun, UV, and Temperature exposure to the tanks isn't something that would be good long term.
  7. nabokovfan87
    I don't think it will do any harm. Probably a good indicator of health as well for the case of disease treatment. Very, very difficult to see anything with the exposure on the plants vs. The fish. Hopefully we can see better in more photos. That being said. I would lean towards kanaplex or neoplex in addition to salt for treatment.
  8. nabokovfan87
    These are Otos: I Would lean towards CPD, but difficult to tell.
  9. nabokovfan87
    Yeah. I wouldn't take a Bolivian below 76. 100% I just don't know if the Roseline and SAEs would want the same thing. I assume so. Same family of fish. My SAEa were a lot like Bettas in that they wanted a place to lay and not swim constantly.
  10. nabokovfan87
    I totally understand. That's why I'm trying it again with more clear directions. I want to see what will get rid of this stuff and what won't.
  11. nabokovfan87
    Rams might not want the same temp as the SAE and the Rainbow Sharks. I would have to check but rams want it warmer usually, generally. 78 vs. 74-76 type of thing. My SAE and RTBS have been warm, I added a ram to the tank, it didn't end well. 😞 Just please double check. Make sure the ram is warm enough. Just keep in mind also, your rainbow shark will be less aggressive than my RTBS, but she doesn't enjoy SAEs at all. Having the rose lines with a similar body shape, that's where I think you could run into issues. You'll need cover, places for them to relax, but the rainbow+SAE is fine. Not sure if the additional Roseline in that qty will cause an issue. I had 4 in my tank, 5+ was just too many. 1 RTBS and I had 5 SAE, pulled 2 for aggression.
  12. nabokovfan87
    I have. Didn't work. At this point I'm ready for bleach. I'm asking because I want to do a side by side test and it was mentioned elsewhere that it "won't work" and I'm trying to understand why. Wood. I get it. Seiryu, maybe it's a PH thing? Not sure. It didn't work before.
  13. nabokovfan87
    I've got two bottles and might run another test on either moss or rocks. Need glue to reattach the moss if I go that route. I briefly tested / mentioned hardscape before and I'm specifically talking seiryu stone. Apart from a peroxide dip. Is there something going on that would cause RR not to work for that application? Something like lava or ohko has bigger cavities, but seiryu is pretty flat and hard with some small pores I'm trying to get this black beard out of.
  14. nabokovfan87
    It's good for a lot of uses. I've been looking into it. Coloration, growth, fry food, etc. As well as spawning. It seems like a nice one to always have around. 🙂 Just based on forum participation and being helpful I believe. Congratulations if I haven't said it already to all the winners. It's a journey to get the boxes there this year, but awesome members here getting some things which is always fantastic!
  15. nabokovfan87
    Not sure what to type here. I did watch my amano shrimp wake up today and there was 3 of them playing around though. 🙂 I wish I had someone that could give me 400 of them! Ok, maybe 50, but you get the point. Hopefully things in the tank start to balance out. Definitely feeding the snail horde you are!
  16. nabokovfan87
    Reminds me so much of my pup and the way they have their day. A shadow goes by the door (clouds) or a leaf makes a noise or moves and it's a gigantic barkfest. When they do manage to sleep, it's so nice to see them actually relaxed for once.
  17. nabokovfan87
    I hear you. The tidal 35 has a very, very specific use case. I would almost always get the 55 and turn it way down, but often that's just not practical. I would likely only use the 35 on QT / Plant only type of tanks. I replaced the sponges, added one to cover the basket, no mods really to change anything else. Not to say I wouldn't redesign it, but just that's what the deal is with that one. It's pretty terrible design. Same mistakes made on the bigger filters repeated on the lower one (and emphasized with the gigantic gap on the intake). One of the main issues with the 35, you cannot run it on it's own because you will have surface scum. You need a skimmer or airstone with that setup at all times, in my testing.
  18. nabokovfan87
    Very sorry for your loss. It's always difficult. I think the fish might've injured himself, some disease, or like others had mentioned genetics. I really, really don't know. It kind of looks like it's a black coating and it started discoloring the top of the eye?
  19. nabokovfan87
    @ritchiebrendan This thread might be helpful. There is supposed to be a new version coming out that Cory had mentioned recently. I would recommend trying to order a replacement. I like running mine with metal gang valves as well if it's a permanent setup. 🙂
  20. nabokovfan87
    Maybe there is another enthusiastic writer out there, but I had an idea... What if ACO had a "choose your own adventure" style book to tell some of the stories of the channel, Cory, and fishkeeping? Something you would enjoy?
  21. nabokovfan87
    Sera tests are the same way. Take the lid off if there is one and view it "top down". It's an engineering term for a view orientation. the API test kits are usually held against the color chart and you're viewing through the side of the glass tube. top down: Side view:
  22. nabokovfan87
    You'll probably wake up to 30-150 on the glass. About half of those are likely to be fertile if it's an early spawn with your group. That's awesome. Just do what you're doing, see what happens. The nice thing about corydoras, more eggs will come. 🙂
  23. nabokovfan87
    I see. Which was your favorite? My big tank was stuffed with tiger barbs and corydoras. I would suggest getting 2+ massive schools of something you really enjoy and a good centerpiece fish. This size of tank is also great for 3-4 SAEs and will actually be big enough for them. (They get the same size as a RTBS). If you go with tetras, I'd also add a few bolivian rams or maybe even an Apisto.
  24. nabokovfan87
    Very good catch. It's definitely not the substrate from all we can tell! Very true. I was going to start with this. This is where I start myself when there is any PH issue at all. We need to figure out what off-gasses and then go from there. Your water might just be very unstable out of the tap! 😂 That's hilarious. Fooled by a simple test strip. Reminds me of the guy who was adding junk to a water sample and going "see, see what you're drinking!" which was meme'd on a magic show and they put tadpoles and all kinds of things in "water tests"
  25. nabokovfan87
    What have you kept before, what fish are interesting to you? @zpayne10? If it was me, First thing I would get would be a RTBS 🙂
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