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zpayne10's Achievements


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  1. I know this forum is predominantly freshwater topics, but I was wondering if anyone has a solid preventative quarantine process for marine fish they wouldn't mind sharing? I read the article posted by Aquarium Co-Op (https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/how-to-treat-sick-aquarium-fish) and was curious if this would be effective for marine as it is fresh, mainly because it lacks a copper treatment which seems to be a staple based on a few saltwater forums.
  2. Here is the response I received from their customer support: "The 21.1" light fits within the tank itself. The 30.1" size chord cannot fit under the glass lids all the way. This is why we recommend the 21.1" model." So basically a poor design on their behalf limits someone from adding a longer light.
  3. It's a freshwater setup. I agree that it's weird they include the 21" light vs the 30" in the kit, knowing it would fit better. There would be quite a bit of shading with a light 10" shorter than the tank.
  4. My apologies, let me clarify: Waterbox Aquariums offers the Eden line of aquariums, and on their website you can buy either the tank itself, or a bundle which includes the tank + AI Blade + Sicce EKO 200. However, the 40 gallon kit which measures at 31" long comes with the 21" AI Blade in the bundle. My comment was instead of buying the bundle, I'll probably buy the tank separately so that I can get an adequately sized light for the tank. Sorry for that confusion 🙂
  5. Resurfacing this thread as life got in the way, and now back in the market for a setup. I'm still eyeing the Waterbox Eden, and as stated above the 40 gallon is 31" long. They make a kit that comes with the AI Blade, and a Sicce EKO 200 filter. I'm thinking of just buying the tank and the light separately, since a 21" light is going to leave a lot of drop off with the 40 gallon length...
  6. This is great, thanks for the side-by-side comparison! How's the coverage between the two? The tank I'm looking at now is the Eden 40, which is 32L x 16W 21H. Curious if I'd want one or two light bars for best coverage.
  7. Title says it all - has anyone used the AI Blade FW yet and have an opinion? How does it compare to say, the Fluval Plant 3.0?
  8. Do most people add fertilizer after a water change? I'm specifically curious for those with new tanks, if you're doing water changes a few times a week to try and prevent excess nutrients, do you add a few pumps of fertilizer afterwards? The 'right' answer is probably to test you nitrates after each water change and determine if you're within a desired range or not, but maybe there is a faster/better answer.
  9. So this is a totally stupid question, but which magfloat scraper should I consider? The tank has 10mm glass, which means the medium magfloat is good for that glass thickness. Or am I better off going to the larger size for a "stronger" connection (up to 19mm glass)?
  10. This isn't a cost issue, it's a colorblind issue that makes the API tests difficult to read 🙂
  11. Do you find it's pretty easy to calculate the dilution factor? My understanding is the nitrate test is for the low range (up to 5ppm), but they have a dilution equation to track up to 50ppm.
  12. Are you using the marine version of the nitrates from Hanna?
  13. If I could use the tests "designed" for saltwater but under freshwater conditions, I'd be quite the happy camper.
  14. Has anyone found reliable digital test kits for the freshwater hobby? I know Hanna makes a bunch for saltwater, but I can't seem to find anything for freshwater. I'm red/green colorblind so reading tests like the API nitrate test is darn near impossible (not to mention lighting changes how the colors look).
  15. That's very helpful, thank you! I think I'll take the "tried-and-true" method of reducing the light a few hours a day, reducing my feeding (not that I overfed, but to be safe), and increasing my water changes from weekly to 2-3x a week. Appreciate the feedback!
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