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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. It's really difficult to see with the blur. Can snap a few more photos?
  2. Anubias Nana is the quintessential "basic" anubias for me. It's the right size, it looks nice, it's simple and easy. My 2nd choice would be the coffeefolia (larger, fancy leaves, but it's just as easy) The nice thing about Nana size is that it's easier to tuck into the shade spots compared to bigger leaves. Bigger leaves means more of a surface for algae as well, but that isn't necessarily going to be an issue. Just something to note when you get into bigger plants that need more energy to grow. I would get the one that looks converted / growing in the right form. I don't think price matters or size matters nearly as much. If you want to fill a spot, then maybe it matters to get the bigger ones. Potted = outside source, meaning you're paying for import costs and shipping. the ones with weights are very likely from the shop themselves. Yes, I can confirm val will do just fine in sand. Root tabs once a month, let it do it's thing. It's a great plant for sand because it sends runners and sand is very conducive to that type of a propagation.
  3. Not a great looking tank, but here's some photos of the trio in the 75G. I also had 1 in each of my other tanks (ones that were a bit more feisty to these three). They can be some of the laziest fish in the world just laying on the things and not swimming all day! But I really do miss them. At the point of the photos they are basically full grown little whales. This photo is when they were much younger. Tank was much happier! You can see them on the left there a little.
  4. We having a race, huh!? 😂 (I saw the little one yesterday during the WC, I'm going to have to go grab an updated shot of 'em before bed.) It looks probably the same size. Before: This is probably ~3 weeks when pattern is formed.
  5. Welcome to the forums. I can't see the depth, but I think you might be ok with the substrate!
  6. Fell better, get well, to you and those around you. I am very sorry about your losses with the CO2. That's really tough.
  7. I just checked the tank, dug through everything, moved all the wood and filters, they're gone. I'm just devastated..... That 29 is destined for some neo's and I really did like that choice of color morph. I will move things asap and I can't figure out "whodunnit" so to speak so everything will be moved out as mentioned. Grace will go with the black corydoras in the 75. Until the 75 is setup, the female half of the black corydoras will go to the QT 10 (perfectly fine) after meds are done and I can do some WCs. Right now it's housing a black cory fry and ultimately they will go in the 75 with the herd. I need to get a heatpack to mail the pandas, they have a good home to go to, thankfully. This news also changes plans I had for the 10G 😞. I apologize for the lackluster start to this project. I really didn't think it'd go this badly....
  8. I checked again tonight, I still don't see any. I may have seen one, but before I could focus on it the thing darted. I tried to relocate, couldn't see it. Time will tell...
  9. They will manage. They will usually be food hogs once they get settled. Might not be bullish, but as they grow they get more confident to feed. If you have other fish in the tank, feed them and focus on them, let the SAE do it's thing and it will grow and cope with the changes. Just don't get into the trouble of overfeeding for the sake of the SAE. Often they get nervous feeding in front of you, especially at first. I've had 5+ SAEs as well. 🙂 One of my favorites.
  10. Their mouth is similar to a few species that basically graze. They go up to a surface and rub their lips open and closed. They do this sort of like a "swim-by" and they just do that constantly through the afternoon and night. That's their basic behavior. During the day, light hours you might see them just hiding and resting. Others can be more active. If you drop food and don't see them eating, don't worry. Offer food every 2-3 days and do small amounts. If you have a very stubborn one try something like krill flakes, spirulina flakes, or spirulina brine (frozen).
  11. Sounds right @kneemmaybe it's a wound from breeding dances. Who knows. As long as it doesn't look any worse I'd say you're ok. Cory had something weird similar happen with ladybird and he had some sort of a wound on the mouth (internal) that caused swelling and discomfort.
  12. You can use gelatin. And then crush up powdered or flake foods. Goldfish flakes, depending on which or discus food might work really well for shrimp.
  13. That's normal. Part of the "wear and tear" of the tanks. You can have some where small sections like that have damage. These ones seem slight bubbles or maybe even as mild as a glove print or something. The bead itself looks very solid and as long as you see it adhered to the glass itself, that's good.
  14. PH 6.8-7.2. keeping it above 7. Temp is 72-74. GH is "high enough" KH is 60 PPM.
  15. Yeah exactly, that's why I was starting this off with quality at the front and trying to make sure it's a good source. They were definitely extremely light sensitive, in the tank for a very brief amount of time and the sand does have a lot of commotion. Corydoras spawned last night. I am hopeful they are just hiding well, very small and doing ok. If I need to be a lot better about hides I'll dump in an entire corner of ceramic rings for now until I can afford more rocks and cover. Moss is growing, has to grow in more. We'll see. The main thing I really want to see is them do we'll and I know that my water is ok at that point. It really, really should be. Just stressful when everything is brand new to me. 🙂
  16. Classic corydoras eggs laying right there.
  17. They were definitely bloody Marys. Just stressed and I really couldn't get a good photo. To the eye... Exactly what you'd expect and I was happy. 🙂 I checked the tank this morning and I don't see anything in there in terms of shrimp. Not a great sign, I'll check tonight. Backup plan is to have them in the 10 and move the wood. Setup the 75. Then I can move the two 29s and move the 10 to the 29 after the fish are removed. Very stressful night, but I had them for a few hours last night just watching them and I got to see just how fragile the neos are compared to my amanos.
  18. Yeah. That's just the sponge porosity and the intake letting things through. Even if it's very fine, it will let stuff through and that builds up on the intake tube and pump mostly. I think it was the last series of photos I posted when I cleaned mine out. That's after a month with 3 layers of sponge. Intake is always jammed with stuff and the foams inside are always mulm black with stuff, bright blue after cleaning. you can see that layer of "muck" on the top of the chute and how thick with chunks it was from the bypass. Not great! Just an indication of time to take the HoB to the sink and check everything. No biggie. Just a sign of do that and make sure everything is ok.
  19. Thank you, I appreciate it. Yeah I can imagine them loving the big mass of PSO once it grown in for you. 🙂
  20. I had mine spawn yesterday. A few days before. And I have a fry from about 2 weeks ago. Cute as heck, little dude is probably 1/4" already. The main thing is conditioning, then triggering. A lot of people will tell you that you have to feed frozen/live/worms and that's what you do. A lot of people will tell you that you that they need (corydoras in general) high protein to have the energy to spawn. I feed almost exclusively omnivore stuff and a lot of it doesn't have krill or fish meal as the first ingredient. I've had a bit of trial and error, years of no fry and then all of a sudden they spawn like this. There's a few notes that I can offer as advice and hopefully it helps.... 1. They will regulate the size of the group on a tank. Sometimes they are smart enough to know there isn't room. Having a bigger group also means more hunting which means the females had better get really good at hiding eggs. Sometimes a spawn can be one or two pairs going nuts and the rest of the group are trying to sleep. Other times it's a massive ball of fish doing their thing. 2. I feed typically once a day. When trying to condition them for breeding I feed morning and then certain foods overnight. Adding more feedings, clean water, etc. Is all part of that process. I learned the trick for Cory and it does work. At night, drop in repashy a few times a week and let them eat. Do that a few times a week and then after a few days or so you can see some activity. It might take time for the females to have eggs so you want to keep that in mind. You'll see them visually be bigger and egg bound and ready to go. 3. Have things for them to lay on. Whether it's a mob on the ground or whether you're talking rocks with moss or a media bag on top of a sponge. The corydoras will do a lot of trial and error trying to find places to lay. One of my things I like to have for pandas is broad leaved plants that they use to go on the underside of and hang the eggs that way. Anubias, java Fern, etc. They tend to use that a lot as well as moss or the underside of wood for me. 4. Keep the water clean! Yep. You're feeding more, so make sure you have good air and good parameters. Don't just toss a ton of food and end up with nitrates really high. 5. Colder water changes to trigger behavior, but a lot of times it's just clean water and changing a good volume of water. I generally match my temps, maybe a degree or two colder. I've also done 5+ degrees cooler in summer and to no avail. When the fish is ready they'll spawn. If you build it they will lay sort of thing. 50% WCs and they should thank you with behavior.
  21. If you can just show the HoB itself. Clean it all that. Check the impeller. It usually just means it's dirty or something dislodged/slowed down.
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