Jungle Fan

@Stef it doesn't have to be wood, as long as you can disrupt the line of sight so they can both have an area where they can stay in peace. More plants can easily accomplish that. I know I have employed that strategy with great success in multiple cichlid tanks, my current Amazon tank, and in my backyard garden where I use it on several hummingbirds, as long as they don't see each other everyone is happy and peaceful, remove those plants, wood, or bushes and they might get ready to rumble.

The e-mail from @Mmiller2001 refers to Easy Green All in One, the picture from @Koidepicts Easy Green Liquid Iron which does contain all three ferrous gluconate, DTPA iron, and EDTA chelated iron. My recommendation would be to start using root tabs every 6" in addition to continuing to use Easy Green and adding Easy Green Liquid Iron, as well as Seachem Flourish Potassium because in addition to the chlorosis I can see several holes in those leaves.

Sounds like more plants, and maybe another piece of driftwood might be your solution ... however, your mollies might have a contract out on you now, after all you knew "what happens in fight club, stays in fight club!" LOL 😉

Here are some blogs that might help a bit, you'll need to scroll down to get to the next, and so on. https://tanninaquatics.com/blogs/the-tint-1

ORD but I love those bookmarks, especially the one with the angelfish and the cardinal tetras! You are quite the artist @Dawn T! Here comes the pun: Have you noticed the beady eyes on some of those goldfish?😉

Aquarium items are like potato chips, you can't just order one, and it's hard to stop once you start that cart.🤣

That could be a cat-astrophe. So far our local feline tuxedo clad aquarium inspector has not conducted an aquarium lid safety test yet, thank goodness! However I suspect it might be because he can surveil all of his aquarium channel big screen tv directly from his cat tree, and who would jump when you can lounge?

Endler guppies love to hang out at the surface, especially if you've got floaters like red root floaters, or Amazon frogbit, they are smaller than halfbeaks, and gouramis,and they don't need huge groups, but unless you manage to separate the males from the females they will create them on their own, and they don't necessarily confine themselves to just the surface.

I picked up some Sera spirulina wafers with wood a while ago while I was traveling and perusing driftwood in a LFS where i was as I tend to do; my plecos and otos seem to really love that stuff, and knowing that @Cory carries Sera in his assortment of fish foods I was wondering if he would consider adding it? Although there are quite a bit of different kinds already in it, and based on that I could understand if he wouldn't want to add any, but I figured: ask not, get not.

In my experience rasboras tend to nip tails way worse than any neon tetra, so with the listed choices Pygmy Corydoras it is.

Had this article sent to me by a fellow aquatic gardener, it is by an Indonesian Anubias grower and deals with the propagation of Anubias from seeds harvested from their flowers. I thought it might be of interest to some, although interest might vary by degrees of hardcore plant nerdness. 🤣 https://emersedanubiasblog.wordpress.com/

@theotheragentmdid you keep one of the nets stationary? The other one follows the fish and guides it into the net. Never failed for me. I usually have the stationary waiting for them right around the corner of a piece of driftwood. By the time they see the net they're already on their way to the surface.

As @Daniel said most aquarium plants will grow well under those conditions. However, some won't and there are other deciding factors such as water pH, and light level. Some absolutely need CO2 added, some don't. The books on aquarium plants by Christel Kasselmann are a great resource, although some of them are out of print, or unavailable, and some aren't translated into English yet. This web site that maintains a listing of aquarium plants and requirements might be of help to you as it lists requirements for a good variety of plants (The requirements are listed for each plant in the box on the right with a picture of what it looks like): http://www.theaquariumwiki.com/wiki/Category:Plants_(Freshwater) Also the plants sold on the Aquarium Co-Op web site are generally great for those just beginning with aquarium plants, easy to take care of, and grow: https://www.aquariumcoop.com/collections/live-plants

As @Guppysnail said if you notice the rhizome to turn brown and get mushy take the Anubias out immediately and get rid of it. Anubias rot is a relatively new disease that can befall only the different varieties of Anubias species, it can infect a whole tank with different types of Anubias in a matter of days. How exactly it works is not quite known yet but according to some reports it might be related to varieties of Anubias like variegated, and Gold Coin that were created by growers through manipulation with viruses. As long as it's just the leaves that melt you can cut them off and let the healthy plant build new leaves, Anubias are very resilient. I've previously had them in a paludarium, moving them back and forth between emersed, and submersed without melt, but if some melt occurs just cut the affected leaves off, the plant will build new ones. You can even multiply the plant if it gets to big by cutting the rhizome into several portions with a clean razorblade and it will develop these pieces into full grown plants. Only if the rhizome wastes away will you know it is rot, and at that point, at least for now there is nothing that will save it.

Lichen will rot under water just like terrestrial moss, I would advise against it. Just get yourself some aquarium moss and super glue it to either your coconut huts, or some driftwood but with terrestrial moss and lichen you can introduce all kinds of things to your tank besides the fact that they will rot. Plecos will rasp along the wood without the moss, no need to entice them they know what they like.

@tnnlynchI don't think I'd advise bringing plants along to Petsmart but if you strike up a conversation in regards to plants you can always pass along your number and arrange a meeting later. If you can find out if that mystery snail can adjust its taste to liking duckweed you might have just found an answer to years of aquarists' prayers. On a lighter note after proofreading this post I for the first time really noticed that the "u" is located just to the left of the "i" on my keyboard, and I'm really glad I proofread this first. 😄

Just had this picture of an Aquarium toilet in Akashi Japan sent to me by a friend. I know some are lazy with the tests and the water changes, but trying to toilet train your fish by example is taking it a bit too far. 🤣🤣 🤣

Local clubs, or if you strike up a conversation while you are in the aquarium section even if your LFS is just the Petsmart. You'd be surprised how many fishkeepers you can get to know that way, and how fast word gets out about free plants now and then.

@ErinV I love your choice of plants, and fish, as well as the hardscape. Looks great! Don't know if you can get them in Canada, and this box is a bit pricey but I've found the tests more reliable than the API, and it's got most of the relevant tests all in it.

It all depends on what type of aquasoil you use as far as leaching goes. Personally I'm not a big fan of aquasoils that are fertilizer enriched and leach like the ADA, although I do have a very thin layer of Fluval Stratum in my tank but only because I wanted something that would help me even out my lava rock before I added another thin layer of gravel and then the Amazon soft belly soil that is primarily burnt clay. The leaching was not a problem because I did a dark start for a month anyway, and then planted heavily. I prefer to use non enriched substrate with a layer of deep sea minerals underneath, that way I can calculate better how many root tabs I will need and how much of what I will dose depending on plant load. The porous lava rock gets nicely colonized by beneficial bacteria and helps with keeping rotting to a minimum over the years. I know that some hate them because they can multiply fast but I've always had a few Malaysian Trumpet snails in my soil that help aerate as well. Didn't purchase them, they were hitchhikers and I only see them every once in a while. As long as overfeeding isn't happening they don't turn into an issue as with all snails. The famous "soil depletion" is mostly an issue for aquascapers that plant heavy root feeders and lots of high light red plants and amp their lights' intensity as high as they can get it. Most of the competition scapers rarely leave a tank unscathed for more than a year, or two before they break it down to be able to create the next YouTube, or competition sensation. My goal is to create something that is sustainable and can last. That was my two cents on soil depletion, however that said there is a lot of good to be said for the Walstad method and i used to run some tanks in that style years ago which was very satisfying and I have to admit I've gotten a bit lazy over the years. @Streetwise's journals are amazing.

A few of my latest acquisitions: "Fishes of the Orinoco in the Wild" by Ivan Mikolji "Bleher's Biotopes" by Heiko Bleher & "Schmerlen - Biologie, Pflege, Vermehrung" ("Loaches - Biology, Care, Breeding") by Gerhard Ott, in German

Sometimes I wonder if my fish can see the reflection of the moss inside the tank as well.

I have three varieties I prefer: Anubias nana petite Anubias nana Anubias afzelli which is usually also the succession in which I use them to decorate driftwood roots starting with the smallest to the largest closest to the stem which I generally surround with Java fern.

Never had an issue with the Python and I'm using the brass fittings, and an extension hose. Before I start the Python I usually siphon out four, or five buckets of water I use to clean filter sponges in (which go into the garden after use), and use the gravel vac, I also use an old parks pass card to clean the glass inside the gravel before the Python gets used.

I've used it previously in combination with moss in Wabi Kusa balls to be placed in driftwood. I've seen it simply attached with glue in an acquaintance's tank, seemed to be doing equally well. Best results with it are with CO2 for sure. How it grows in nature: Comes from the Province of Goa in India, where it grows in soft, slightly acidic water, loves flow, primarily found in irrigation ditches (rhizome attaches to pebbles and rocks, roots extend into the soil) and waterfalls (in waterfalls always as complete rheophytes with rhizome and roots - meaning all of it attaches to rock)