tnnlynch

Yesterday I did a partial water change to lower the water level, turned off the filter & lights and spot treated two areas in my tank where I can't trim the BBA. One with H2O2 and the other with Excel. After 15 minutes I finished the water change. Today the H2O2 area showed only slight signs of impact (might be too old though). The Excel turned the BBA red which would seem to indicate it is having an immediate impact.

I'm still fighting BBA myself after a few weeks. Spiked my phosphates horrendously (no Co2 and probably too much lighting) which I was not testing for until I had a large outbreak. Cleared that up with phosguard, treated aggressively with Excel and started being more careful in my feeding which I believe to be the original issue. Lost most of my Anubius which probably didn't help with the balance. Added a new CO2 system which with trimming seems to be keeping the BBA relatively in control on my plants. My substrate on the other hand is owned by the BBA. Thinking of trying some H2O2 spot treatments with filters off & lights low over the worst of the infected gravel. It's relatively cheap and shouldn't harm my remaining plants. Did you ever try H2O2 spot treatments or just Easy Carbon?

Mine are dying off recently. Leaves dissolving and the roots are going brown & mushy. I had added two new Anubias on a new piece of wood recently as well as treating the tank with Excel (I had some BBA). I assume the excel weakened the existing ones and the new plants brought in the fungus. If your rhizomes are green and healthy it probably is something different though.

Pretty rare for them to go without feeding daily. Maybe once or twice a month.

Like Bjorn I have been dueling with BBA a bit in my 29g tank. Easy carbon did nothing for my BBA. Tried Excel but that didn't seem to be effective on the bba but seemed to really hurt my anubias nana petite. A 3 minute H2O2 dip was great for killing the BBA on the Java Fern but really did a number on the anubias gold coin - basically killing 2 of three plants rhizomes while erasing the BBA. Actually used all of my water test kits and discovered my phosphates were extremely high. Not sure why as it had not been an issue before but sadly I had stopped testing that parameter. I have not purposefully changed my fertilization schedule but I know I occasionally miss a day. Increased my weekly water changes to 50% and added Phosguard to drop the phosphates. Tank seems to have less BBA but it's not completely gone. My tank could be getting too much light as I have it at 10 hours. I ramp up the intensity slow early and late in the day (6 hours at 75% with 2 hours ramping up and down). I don't use CO2 yet but just filled my new CO2 tank and waiting on a drop checker and some time next week to add it all in. When you suggest 8 hours of light, do you ramp right to 100% at the beginning of the light period? Think ambient light matters much outside of the plant light period?

Unfortunately he has stopped eating an now is lying on the bottom of the tank. No reaction to the Expel-P. Might be something else or I just got to him too late. I will see how he looks tomorrow.

Couldn't get any Fritz Expel P so I started in the Paracleanse I did have. Will follow up with the Expel-P when it arrives later this week.

Worth a try. I will pick up some tomorrow. Thanks for the advice

Sorry, that is the light at the top of the tank. His coloration is normal. No spots or sores.

This guy was not looking a little thin last week but he has always been the smallest of the danio's so I wasn't worried yet. Packing and moving my daughter kept me busy for a few days with minimal tank time. I noticed today he looked horrible and is staying at the top of the tank. I moved him to my hastily setup hospital tank with some salt. The other danios, barbs, corys, shrimp and snails look healthy and active. No new tank members this year other than some cherry shrimp from another of my tanks. The danios are a little over a year old. Water parameters are normal for this reasonably heavily planted 29g tank. NO3: 25 (usually swings from 25-50), NO2: Zero, HG 300+, KH 40 (generally 40-60), PH 6.6. My tap KH is 80 and PH 6.8 so both drop over the week in-between water changes. Thoughts? Would you treat with anything else?

Lights and bluetooth controlled plugs are quite an improvement over previous timers and lights I used. In general I see a lot better supply online of fish and equipment. It is a lot easier to research different topics but (as with any subject) the bar to publish on the internet is really low, so it can be just as much of a challenge as before.

To be more specific, my reasonably heavily planted 29g with eco complete moves much slower. I only drops about 20-30 KH in a week. My 10g with a gravel substrate (java fern, moss, anubius, frogbit and as of this week some crypts) is the tank that plummets to 0 in 8 days. I keep the frogbit to one small corner but it does replicate quickly. I also had too many apple snails in this tank until yesterday (missed a clutch that hatched). Not sure if that changes anyone's thoughts. I ordered some potassium carbonate to experiment with. Thanks for the suggestions.

Eco complete in my 29g (1 year old). Gravel in my smaller tanks. No co2.

My water is rock hard but my PH and KH vary depending on the season from the tap. Ph 6.8-7.2 with KH 60-100. I add the occasional wondershell for my shrimp and snails and have crushed coral in my hob(s). My PH and KH still drop in all of my planted tanks with KH hitting 0 in about 8 days. I use baking soda in my daphnia tank to keep higher ph but am hesitant to do that in my other tanks. My fish seem fine in general but I was looking to increase the interval between water changes to allow me to go on vacation and minimize the potential impact on the fish ignorant friend taking care of the tank. I know @Mmiller2001 mentioned potassium carbonate in another thread. I saw a few dosing guides on the net but have not had a chance to compare them.

With that tall of a tank some Vals in the back would look good.