Jungle Fan

@CalmedByFish short answer is: No! Damaged leaves leak nutrients the plant could better use for new growth. Damaged leaves also don't recover.

My list would've been pretty much identical but would have included: Red root floaters, Amazon frogbit, Baby Tears, Pearlweed, and much like the Peace lily, Flamingo flower plant Anthurium scherzerianum from Central and South America, A friend has a 200 gallon tank with lots of Pothos, Peace lily, and Flamingo flower plant mounted on the backwall with their roots by means of rubber twist ties. None of those would be an option in my house though because all of them are highly toxic to cats. However for those without professional feline supervision, here is a link describing the Flamingo flower plant: https://www.houseplantsexpert.com/flamingo-flower.html

I'm with @Patrick_G on this one I'd say a juvenile Silver Tip Tetra.

@Mary Mckinny Usually I trim the leaves with the plant remaining in the tank, but in your case now you know you won't have to worry about your swords, they should be fine within a while. Just be patient, continue to dose them and you should see new leaves growing. Would be interesting to see your tank once it's fully cycled and your swords have recovered.

@Mary Mckinny if the rosette where the leaves originate feels firm chances are the roots are firm and still healthy. I know some swear on powdered fertilizer but for a beginner I think you'd be better off with a good all in one liquid fertilizer like Easy Green, I'm not familiar with the Hygger but on average plants need a good photo period of anywhere from 8 to 10 hours per day, some more, some less. Amazon swords are not super needy when it comes to light but they do need about 8 hours on medium intensity for really good growth. You can always try to add a few more root tabs, and some Easy Green liquid iron, as well as Seachem Flourish Potassium, but as I said I'd probably cut off the damaged leaves, dose Easy Green all in one and give the swords some time. Amazon swords and Cryptocoryne are heavy root feeders and they need the extra iron and potassium, though normally the root tabs are sufficient. Because my tank has so many of them I also dose liquid iron, and potassium into the water column, besides the all in one. Are you keeping any other plants in the tank, if so, how are they doing?

@Odd DuckWait,... what... You scored Takashi Amano's house when his estate went up for sale?🤣 You know you're a Nerm when you can recognize a house by the fish tank!

My Aquarium tool roll purchased over time: straight scissors, curved scissors, wave scissors, spring shears for thicker plants, bent planting tweezers, straight tweezers, carpet plant trimming tweezers, forceps, substrate flattener, regular small scissors for moss in tight places, a crescent wrench for CO2, and a set of needle files for removal of Nerite eggs, or algae on driftwood when the need arises PS: the needle files also work great for white superglue removal from inappropriate places on driftwood.

@Mary Mckinny as long as your Amazon sword's roots are not brown and mushy it can recover. Did you get both from the same source? Both the first and the last picture show plants that aren't doing so well. Are you dosing anything besides the root tabs (all in one, liquid iron, potassium, CO2)? What lights are you using, and how long do you keep them on. If your Amazon swords were grown emersed they might still be going through the transition to submersed growth, also they can take a while to get established and until you see new growth, as in months. Once they are established growth can be rather explosive. I would cut off any damaged leaves (leaves that are brown, or translucent, or show obvious damage) so the plant can focus its energy on new growth.

Was just about to post something similar, then I saw your post😄. Thanks, you saved me some typing!

The first edition is much thinner, a lot has happened since then, a lot more plants have been introduced and keeping plants has become more popular., and Christel has added more research. However, just because the new book has more, and updated info doesn't mean that you won't get any use out of the 1st edition, after all for a good long while it was all there was and people were doing just fine, so if the budget is tight, and I know how that is from personal experience, then I would say get what you can afford, and $35 is a great price, I've seen them asking a lot more for used aquarium books, some so much that it made you wonder if it was joke.

The 50s, early 60s, and the 80s were when music was happening. I do remember the 8-tracks mostly from pick up trucks.

Don Gibson 1961, 8 years too late for the Korean War, but great title song, because it fit the name of the battle, and for a good flick with Clint Eastwood.

Talk about Pink Floyd, I saw the Roger Waters "The Wall" Live Concert in Berlin on Potsdamer Platz in 1990, it was epic,

@anewbieHer latest edition is as of 2019 and there are usually quite a few years in between, and there are lots of changes, for example the last edition did mention nothing about Anubias hybrids that were achieved by using vruses, nor did it have any Bucephalandra. If you are really into aquarium plants then this is the one book to have. By the way usually her books don't get cheaper as the years progress, they get harder to find and the prices get outlandish. You can check this out for yourself. https://www.christel-kasselmann.de/

That duckweed might be hard to remove from certain areas. 😁

Anybody remember Nermal, and Garfield? Over simplification: a Nerm is someone who happily purrs along whenever given the chance to look at anything aquarium related!

Eclectic from ZZ Top to Mozart, Ofra Haza to Johnny Cash, Falco to Candy Dulfer, Dire Straits to Smetana, the Beach Boys to Ravel, Joan Jett and the Blackhearts to Tchaikovsky, Elvis, and George Winston I'm unclassifiable long as it's got rhythm, is classy, or funny, or is descriptive and captures a landscape, or emotion. Unfortunately not much from today's music scene, seems like around the mid 90's good music got really scarce, but that's just my sentiment, my apologies to all who are feeling the groove with today's tunes - just not my cup'o noodles.

The 4th edition of Christel Kasselmann's book "Aquarium plants" of which I have the German edition, the English version is available from her on her web site, has a nice section on Anubias, their origins, when they were discovered, or created, and each species particulars in regards to description, culture, ecology, and other specifics; altogether 14 pages with photos of each. -Anubias afzelli, discovered 1857, origin: Senegal, Guinea, Sierra Leone, Mali -Anubias barteri var. barteri, discovered 1860, origin: Southeast Nigeria, Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea -Anubias barteri var, angustifolia, discovered 1979, origin: Guinea, Liberia, Ivory Coast, Cameroon -Anubias barteri var, caladifolia, discovered 1915, origin: Southeast Nigeria, Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea -Anubias barteri var. glabra, discovered 1901, origin: Guinea, Liberia, Ivory Coast, Nigeria, Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea, Gabon, Congo -Anubias barteri var. nana, discovered 1979, origin: Cameroon -Anubias barteri var, nana "Bonsai" aka. "petite", introduced 1997 by Tropica which first stated origin as Cameroon, later as bred in Singapore -Anubias barteri var. coffeifolia, classified in 2013 by Kasselmann as its own variety of Anubias barteri -Anubias "nangi", introduced in 1986 by Gasser from Florida by creating hybrid of Anubias barteri var. nana and Anubias gillettii -Anubias gigantea, discovered 1939, origin: Guinea, Sierra Leone, Liberia, Ivory Coast, Togo, Cameroon -Anubias gillettii, discovered 1901, origin: Nigeria, Cameroon, Gabon, Congo, Democratic Republic of Congo -Anubias gracilis, discovered 1939, origin: Guinea, Sierra Leone -Anubias hastifolia, discovered 1893, Ghana, Togo?, Nigeria, Cameroon, Democratic Republic of Congo -Anubias heterophylla aka. "congensis", discovered 1879, origin: Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea, Gabon, Congo, Democratic Republic of Congo, Angola (Cabinda Province) -Anubias pynaerti, discovered 1910, origin: Cameroon, Gabon, Congo, Democratic Republic of Congo With anything else I'm being careful. Hope this helps.

@Streetwise at, or above waterline is not as much of a risk as below the surface, also it depends on whether the moss is used with a layer of soil that it grew on, or not. In my younger years before the widespread introduction of aquatic mosses I was experimenting with terrestrial mosses and lichen in my tanks. I wanted the kind of emergent look from the water to a terrestrial portion. paludaria weren't that common yet at the time either, and those who kept turtles, or axolotls usually didn't add plants, or fish. My tanks were doing fine until I tried to attach some moss to wood and a portion of it was just slightly below the surface. In other tanks I flat out tried to submerge the moss. Don't know if it was just the rotting, or the organisms that came from the remnants of soil but I lost the barbs, loaches, and danios in those tanks, and did not return to using moss until the intro of Java moss. So my recommendation was just based on past personal bad experience.

When I received my crypts last year when I started my current tank, I cut all the leaves of the Cryptocoryne wendtii off before planting them, leaving just stubs of the stems, within 3-4 weeks my crypts had all regrown submersed leaves. Then again I've got root tabs every 6 inches, and I'm dosing All in one, liquid iron, potassium, and CO2.

@Kylec as I said the larger a group you'll have the less of that type of behavior you'll see. Small numbers cause stress, they feel less secure, and just as with people under stress, and duress you'll see lashing out from some. Getting more cardinals should solve that problem.

I'm careful with some of the new forms since Anubias rot has been making the rounds lately, and although it isn't certain yet what's causing it, it is known that some growers have created varieties by infecting healthy plants with viruses and then creating hybrids that look cool but aren't healthy plants because they are deficient in the chlorophyll they need for photosynthesis.

Welcome to the forum @ParaVagans!

Welcome to the forum @Voltron!

Welcome @Dustin Perez! Nice Bolivian ram.