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  1. 😮 That. Is. Awesome! I had a friend with a bootleg DVD of that performance that we watched far too often in college.
  2. I think @Guppysnail's idea is great! I also think it you take it from a landforms/geology perspective you can make something that is broadly generalizable. Things like wells, public or private, versus surface water sources. Geology's role. And chemical infiltration. Could be several vids, but those are things that are broadly applicable to many of the places where people have the luxury of keeping fish for fun. Anyhow, I like the idea and just wanted to offer some further encouragement! I'm looking forward to see what comes of this.
  3. So, I've been thinking a lot about this. I have a decent sized tank I am putting together for African Rift Lake cichlids, and because I can't really do plants, I want to have a refigium in the sump. The same question struck me - which one would be the best choice? My first thought was Salvinia. It's uses to pull N out of effluent in some counties, and it has access to atmospheric CO2. But, in reading through some of the scientific literature, it doesn't seem all that great when compared with other submerged plants, probably because it doesn't pull from as much of the water column. Then, I started thinking about submerged plants. But my searches of the primary literature were not highly successful. As with much of this hobby, there isn't really funding out there for direct research and so things like aquaponics research has to suffice. Well, I can tell you how lettuce does, but that's not a big help for most. A few months ago, Fishman posted a video series on YouTube about using what he called "bog filters". He found that Java moss, but not hornwort, was good at taking up ammonium. I realize this is not nitrate, but it did get me thinking. I am planning to run some experiments with ammonium and nitrate to see which plants draw each down most rapidly. But initial stuff is looking like anacharis, water wisteria, java moss, and Myriophyllum. I need to do more testing though. Right now I want something that can grow without being rooted. Rooted, there is data that Val is decent. Without opening up a whole thing, one thing I will not be considering is trying to cultivate denitrifying bacteria as a means to get rid of N from the tank.
  4. So, on another forum (different hobby) a thread I've always gotten a lot our of was one where people could share the music they are enjoying at the moment. It has lasted for years, and I was introduced to tunes I would never have otherwise known about. I don't think there is thread like that here yet, and so I thought I would take it upon myself to start one. So, please share the music you like currently. It'll probably change, so when it does, come back and let us know the latest thing you are enjoying (though it doesn't need to be the latest music by any means). I'll start us off. I've been getting a kick out of a recent song from one of my favorite pop-punk bands from the 2000's. Att the time, they had songs about making fun of the nostalgia adults feel and adolescent angst all which rang true for me in my youth. So, I greatly appreciate that they now have one about getting older, which rings as true. for me today as their songs did decades ago (yikes, the 2000's were decades ago 😬). But as long as "Bowling for Soup" continues to narrate the experiences of the different stages of my life, I think everything is going to be okay.
  5. I like it! That seems like a good plan and design for the drain lines. You do not need, nor do you want, valves on the return from the pump. Closing valves down on return lines creates back-pressure on the pump which will shorten the lifespan of the pump. Will you be using two pumps to feed the returns? Or a single pump with either multiple outlets or a plumbing splitter? The advantage of using two pumps is the redundancy in case one goes out. The disadvantage is typically this results in greater power consumption and heat input into the water (this heat can be good or bad depending on your situation and season).
  6. Definition here. Also, to stay on topic... I don't really have to say anything these days. When people come into the house and see a 250 gallon tank, it tends to speak for me. Despite that, I still manage to get into odd situations. Recently a friend wanted to make plans to grab dinner, and suggested this Thursday. I said "ooh, can't. I've got something going on that evening." My wife helpfully chimed in to let the friend know that I'd be attending a "fish meeting", to which my friend inquired why I was "meeting" with my fish. Thinking this would improve the situation, I explained that I would be attending a meeting for the local aquarium society. Turns out this did not help and was met with chuckles at the idea that I would go out of my way to seek people out to talk about my aquariums. The response intensified when it was revealed that the meeting would be held over Zoom. They then wanted to kn ow what was so interesting I couldn't miss it. The topic: Rapidly cycling your tank. Silence. "So, another night then...?"
  7. Well, if you want to run a script by anyone, I'd be happy to offer edit suggestions. I'd say it's all about what you are doing. If you grow carnivorous plants, or do hydroponics/aeroponics then TDS/EC is king. In aquariums, it becomes foggier because the specific, and unknown, chemistry makes a difference, not just the presence or absence of solutes (in the "ponics" case you know what you are adding, so again the chemistry is less an issue than the concentration which EC can give you).
  8. May I suggest you lean on your biology background in this endeavor as well? For instance, if you are going to do a pH, explaining why pH matters the organisms (fish primarily, I would guess) in terms of how too low or too high a pH impacts their physiology. That would not only set your video apart, but also allows people at various levels of experience to take away something from the video. Those with less experience might remember "low pH makes it hard to fish to remove waste through their gills" or something. And those with greater experience might have a better understanding of how the process works. Just a thought. Good luck!
  9. Picked up some new fish I won from the Minnesota Aquarium Society auction this week. Moved them into a Qt that was fully cycled. I tried to give them a soft landing by adding some RO to the tank before hitting them with my liquid rock from my well. So far so good...
  10. Wow, that's like a great, green, submarine fog! My suspicion is that there are phases to the development of the growth at this density. I think you'll get more of the floater connected to a base by a stalk once it starts to grow. At least that is how I am hoping it works! 🤞
  11. To figure out the maximum amount of water you might need to be able to store in the sump, measure the height of the aquarium and then divide the total gallons (150 in your case) by the height to get an estimate of the number of gallons per inch of height (estimate because some manufacturers have some error bars around the gallons they report for any given tank size). Then because your overflow has holes in the middle and bottom (was that a correct assessment from the photo?), you'll have to decide how high you want your main drain line to be. It will need to be lower then the bottom of the top holes, and then a little bit so it doesn't suck in air. But remember that when you turn off our pump your tank will drain to that level. So if you make it too low, you'll end up with more water draining then your sump can accommodate. I'd suggest, given that you know how much space you have in your sump (I build my own so I have other calculations to do), figure out how far down the maximum depth of the overflow can be from the lip, and then don't exceed that. That should keep you in the safe zone. The returns are through the bottom? That's another thing to think about, especially if you are going with the H2Overflows. Once you are comfortable with the drain line plans, then start to think about the return lines. The big thing there is just to make sure you don't have the returns set too deep, or have a siphon break built in. Sumps really aren't too complicated, though I do wish some company would just sell tank/stand/sump sets. That would get more people interested in them.
  12. Yes, that looks like a decent enough guide. As folks have said, keep the overflow in. If you want you can cover that with your background material to hide it. Looks like you have a Durso in there right now. I concur with Cory. Make it a Herbie. The big thing to keep in mind is that you'll need a "gate valve" on the main drain line. I see your guide mentions them, but like many it also suggests the possibility of using a "ball valve". A gate valve give you far more fine level control, and that makes all the difference in the world for matching the flow rate going through the line and keeping the flow quiet. With a gate valve, suddenly the project has much bigger error bars around the flow rate. Then remember to leave the emergency line open, i.e. no valves to allow free flow. After that it's just a matter of height to volume conversions to figure out capacity (the sump must have a enough room when operating to accommodate the outflow from the tank until to drains when the pump goes off). Ideally, you have your pump and sump set so that if the drains both somehow clog the sump can't overflow the tank either. That's a lesser concern, but one I aim for. If you have questions, keep posting here. It looks like it is going to be a fun build!
  13. Think of it like this: It grows the same way as the grass in your lawn. It's just on a larger scale with the big val you have. If you want a leaf that grows from the base that is hard to contemplate, may I present to you the welwitschia* from the Namib desert on the southwest coast of Africa. In technically only ever has two adult leaves that constantly grow out of an ever widening base, that get tattered and split my the wind over the course of its thousand plus year life span. *Not suitable for planted aquariums.
  14. Recently, I have been buying some new types of fish food. Some pellets. They have been what I expected. But the flakes have ranged in size from massive to absolutely enormous! Has anyone else noticed this? Why is this a thing now? I can't imagine fish are happier with a flake that is the size of a lily pad. It can't be for larger fish, right? I mean once they are a certain size, don't most folks change over to pellets? So, I end up grinding the flakes down to be a size that is smaller than my fish. Does anyone know why these companies have decided that bigger is better when it comes to fish flakes?
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